Semi-Frequent Questions about the Nikon F2
You could do a better job? Probably. I'll do as best as I can,
though. The first part of this document is lifted (with some editing) from an email
conversation that I had with Dave Nunn, who graciously allowed me to use it to help
start this document.
Whoo! The F2 is hot, as people all over the world seem to be
rediscovering this 1970's beauty. The oldest F2's are now 27 years old, and many
of them are still quite useable (and probably just as many others have given up the
ghost after many long years of front-line press service). As is so often stated,
many people believe that the F2 was the last hand-built Nikon; it certainly exudes
an air of quality.
What flash system is most suited to the F2?
What is an approximate second-hand value
for the F2 in first class condition?
How do you lock up the mirror on a F2?
How do you open the F2?
Why does the F2 have numbers engraved
on the self-timer lever?
How do I meter long time exposures with
the DP-2, -3, or -12 meters?
What were the standard prisms used with
What is the difference between the F2xx's?
What does the collar around the shutter
What can I do about a jumpy meter needle?
What do I do about a shutter hole?
What do all of the dials and levers on
the back of the MD-2 do?
What's an MF-3?
How come the MD-3 is cheaper than the
What is the significance of a serial number?
How do I get exposure information from
non-prong lenses to the DP-1, -2, or -3 finders?
How do I know where the film plane is?
What is the appropriate sync speed with
What are the different incarnations of
the 55f/3.5 Micro?
How can you tell what a xx-x accessory
What Flash system is most suited to the F2?
- Any flash that has a PC-socket will connect to this camera.
Nikon made a series of flashes (SB-2 and SB-7E) that connect directly onto the hotshoe
of the F2 (it surrounds the rewind knob). The main advantage of buying Nikon flashes
would be to have the "flash-ready" light activate in the finder when the
flash is fully charged. Personally, I use a Metz 45-series flash, and find it's more
than adequate in automatic mode. You can also use any ISO-foot (e.g. Vivitar 283,
etc.) flash if you purchase the AS-1 flash adapter (appox. $20-40 US, secondhand),
which slips around the nonstandard F2 flash shoe and provides you with an ISO connection.
I believe that the AS-5 adapts F3-footed flashes to the F/F2 shoe. The F2 does not
have TTL flash metering or indeed any control of the flash other than firing it.
I have heard that the reason for the nonstandard location of the flash shoe is because
of the interchangeable prisms -- adding a flash to the top of the camera could conceivably
produce enough torque to rip the finder off the body.
According to Nikon, flashbulbs may also be used, as with the
F, but without the fiddly flash-sync selector business of the F. I haven't tried
using bulbs on either camera.
By the way, rumors of the fabled Vivtar-TTL ISO hotshoe adapter
for the F3 are false, unless it is used with a specific flash, or unless you buy
a special flash adapter (Metz SCA 344, Sunpak NE-3D). The F3 has a unique implementation
of TTL; convential TTL flash metering has the sequence:
- flash fires
- camera meter measures light output, through the lens
- camera sends signal to quench flash
- flash turns off
The F3, on the other hand, has no special circuitry inside
the camera for flash, except the one pin that it reads on the hotshoe telling it
to turn to sync speed (or slower, if selected) and turn off the ambient metering.
That's why you need a special adapter for the F3 with non-Nikon flashes. Its TTL
flash sequence is:
- flash fires
- F3's photocell sends light reading to flash
- flash decides when to quench, based on above reading
- flash turns off
What is an approximate second-hand value for the F2 in first
class condition, (including wide angle lens), in 1996?
- The camera itself will run about $100-$300 US, with finders
(see the reply to the question below) ranging from $150 (DP-1) to $400 (DP-12). However,
there are special variants of the F2, including a titanium body that goes for about
$3 000 US. The lens prices depend on which lens you'd like, whether a 35f2.8 ($150),
to a 28f3.5 PC ($1 000), to a 24f2.8 ($250), all the way to a 13f5.6 ($10 000 US).
I'd say that you could pick up a pristine F2 with eyelevel (no meter) finder and
a 24f2.8 for about $600-700 US, which honestly isn't too bad for a camera that would
probably cost appox. $3 000+ to make today (the F2 was the last of the hand-assembled
Nikons). If you are planning to motorise the camera, try to get one with a later
serial number (73xxxxx) or later, as some of the earlier ones had a small problem
with "kickback" in the film take-up spool -- apparently, it can cause ghost
images to form on the film as it is fed through the camera.
It may seem strange that the DE-1 will often cost twice as
much as a DP-1, but the DE-1 is at once elegant, compact, light, and there are no
ring resistors to fail in it.
How do you lock up the mirror on an F2?
- Push in the depth-of-field button and rotate the surrounding
collar until the two dots line up to lock up the mirror. You can actually see the
mirror moving up, if you take off the lens.
How do you open the F2?
- Unfold the O/C key on the bottom, and turn to O. Fingernails
help, and sometimes a strong constitution, too, since the F2 occasionally doesn't
like opening up its back. Be sure (ok, I've done it myself) that you don't put your
fingers over the back so that you're holding it shut as you try to open it (old F
Why does the F2 have numbers engraved on its self-timer lever?
- These are the long shutter speeds, including a ten-second
time that you can't get on an F3 (on the other hand, you can get TTL flash metering
with an F3 ...). This is how you work them:
- Cock the shutter with the wind lever
- Turn the T/L collar around the shutter release to "T"
- Set the shutter speed dial to "B"
- Set the self-timer to the desired shutter speed
- Trip the shutter with the shutter release button, not the
On the other hand, you can use these as variable times for
the self-timer countdown with any shutter speed -- leave the T/L collar to its regular
shooting position (in the middle), set the self-timer to the appropriate delay, and
trip the timer with its separate release button (revealed when the self-timer lever
is moved aside).
How do I meter these long shutter speeds?
- Well, first of all, you need to have the appropriate prism
(DP-2, -3, or -12) and know how to set
long speeds. You'll notice on your physical shutter
speed indicator (outside the viewfinder view) that there is a separate ring above
it with additional 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10s (but 10s is indicated with a dot) speeds.
When the main shutter speed control is set to "B", press down on the small
silver button and turn the shutter speed dial; the separate ring will now turn to
the selected speed. Once you set the self-timer lever, you're ready to expose.
One small note of caution to DP-2 (F2S) owners: if you suddenly
switch from a fairly bright to a dim metering situation, you will need to let your
meter adjust to the low levels, for about a minute or two. The DP-3 and -12 do not
have this "feature", since they use silicon blue photodiodes, rather than
the CdS photoresistor in the DP-2.
Hey conservative freak, tell me why I should get excited about
a camera with slow flash sync, finger-breaking MLU, and fiddly long time exposures.
- Coffee, anyone? Rationally, there is no reason. If you want
a fully-mechanical body, the Nikkormat EL, FT2, and later all work quite nicely today
(and offer MLU); the Nikon FM is compatible with non-AI lenses; you'll never find
a DA-1 affordably, and besides, it doesn't have a meter in it; heck, you can buy
a new FM10 for the same money that you'd spend on a decent F2; the F3 offers virtually
the same features (minus fully-mechanical operation) for a modest increase in outlay
(buying a used F3 with DE-2, not the DE-3 HP prism). So, really, why?
Sometimes, buying a camera isn't all about what the mind tells
you is correct. The prevailing view of camera-as-tool is quite practical, and would
advise one to get the F3 or FM10; with the F2, the idea becomes tool-is-beautiful.
Yes, I know that taking pictures with the F2 is inconvenient compared to today's
modern cameras and that, rationally, the only people buying F2's should be collectors;
on the other hand, the F2 seems to be experiencing a resurgence among camera users
of all kinds -- both first-time tyros and old-hand pros. I do not consider myself
a collector, and treat my F2 accordingly -- slinging it around, over my shoulder,
in the bag, letting the dog trample it every so often; the beauty of the F2 (and
F) for me, is not in saying, "Gee, look at these nice pictures I've taken with
this camera, whose limitations I've struggled mightily to overcome," but rather
in having something at hand that I am familiar with and presents no distractions
in extracting a final shot from the picture at-hand. That's what a useful tool is,
What were the standard prisms used with the F2?
- The F2 came, over its lifetime, with five different "standard"
prisms. You probably also want to go check out my semi-exciting (ok, no pics) prisms page.
The prisms were the eyelevel DE-1 (somewhat rare) and metered prisms DP-1 (common),
DP-2 (uncommon), DP-3 (rare), DP-11 (uncommon), and DP-12 (uncommon), using Atari
2600 cartridge rarity ratings.
What is the difference between the F2xx's?
- The various (official) name combinations are:
Official Name = Combination = Shorthand
F2 Eyelevel = F2 with DE-1 = F2
F2 Photomic = F2 with DP-1 = F2 (Photomic)
F2 Photomic S = F2 with DP-2 = F2S
F2 Photomic SB = F2 with DP-3 = F2SB
F2 Photomic A = F2 with DP-11 = F2A
F2 Photomic AS = F2 with DP-12 = F2AS
How come the collar around the shutter release has three click-stops,
a T, a L, and an unmarked one in the middle?
- Going from right to left, you have "L"ock, normal,
and "T"ime shutter release setting. When the collar is on L, the shutter
will not fire (unless you have a motordrive hooked up -- its setting overrides those
on the collar, but you can still use the manual shutter release if you want). In
the middle position, you can fire away as you please. To use the T setting, you need
to turn the shutter speed dial to "B" and the collar to T. If you want
a shutter speed of 2, 4, 6, 8, or 10 seconds, take note of the above question on
long shutter speeds. If you want even longer speeds:
- Wind the camera, thus priming the shutter
- Take off the lenscap
- Put your hat or hand or something in front of the lens
- Release the shutter with the top-deck shutter release (usually
via self-timer or cable)
- Once the vibrations have gone away, pull the obscuring object
of choice away from the front of the lens and start counting seconds (or minutes/hours)
- Obscure the lens again
- Close the shutter (by turning the collar away from T or by
winding the film on)
This feature is designed mostly for those who don't have locking
cable releases and don't want to stand around squeezing a cable release for up to
hours on end (I know that there's some star-trail photographers out there ...).
My meter needle is jumpy. What can I do?
- The quick solution is to jump around yourself as you take
pictures, so that you don't notice it jumping. Probably the more rational solution
is to break open that piggy bank, forget about the nice 180f/2.8 that you had your
eye on, and find a DP-12 (Del's usually has one or two of them in stock). The meter
needle is jumpy because somehow, your ring resistor has gotten scratched whether
by dirt or misadventure. The ring resistor is the part that we all revile (all together
now: boo!) because it is the part most likely to fail after the F2 ceased being a
new camera in 1980. Almost immediately, Nikon stopped making it, no fools they. If
you really wanted to get your ring resistor fixed, you'd have to get a DP-1, DP-2,
or DP-11 (with an intact ring resistor) and swap them -- the whole surgery would
probably cost you as much as a DP-12. Besides which, if you got the extra finder,
you might as well use it ...
Granted, you can live with the jumpiness, but it's only a matter
of time before it fails (right as you see Bigfoot ... now, let's see, it's sunny-16,
and right now it's patchily cloudy, and I want to expose the fur [hair/claws/fangs/horrible
gaping mouth coming at you] correctly so that would be ... dang). If you don't want
to spend the bucks on a DP-12, you could get a nice handheld meter, and have implements
dangling from your neck all day (I did it once; not too fun).
More specifically, if you are having trouble with your ring
resistor, you might want to try:
- Cleaning the
- Southeast Camera Repair
- 6300 Jimmy Carter Blvd
- Norcross, GA 30071
- Many thanks to Tyler Knapp, who has used this repair
shop and wanted to share it with everyone.
Why does my camera weigh so much?
- Perhaps some joker has attached a lead brick to the bottom
of your camera -- er, no, that's just the MD-2. I dunno. F2's are heavy. They are
reputedly the last of the hand-assembled Nikons, so you might want to think about
that before you use yours as a paperweight, doorstop, or hammer. However, it's easy
to get caught up in the whole notion of weight = quality; what it really means is
that Nikon's designers felt that those materials were the best to use in the F2 at
the time. Two important questions to note:
If you don't believe me, or are a diehard metal fan, tell me that
it's as easy to dent an F3/T as it is to dent a regular F3. One more:
- Have materials advanced since 1971?
- Are quality materials available for lighter weight?
Used in the places that camera designers feel fit, it's likely
to last as long as a comparable metal part while delivering tremendous weight savings.
I'm not saying that I'm a huge fan of plastic (please, fiber-reinforced polycarbonate),
just that I'm no longer a metal fanatic. If you want to really argue about it, just
post something like "(material of your choice here) rules and (alternative material)
is crap" on the Usenet.
- Is plastic crap?
What do I do when I have a hole in the shutter?
- Pray that you find a good repair shop -- I hear good (i.e.
miraculous) things about Professional Camera Repair in New York City. Otherwise,
you now have that nice paperweight, doorstop, or hammer that you always wanted. Lots
of smaller camera repair shops do not have the know-how to replace the horizontally-travelling
shutter (which, as far as I know, is currently being made in the F3HP, the Leica
M6, and the Olympus OM-3/4, what with the recent demise [sob] of the Pentax LX),
not to mention that the only possible new replacement would be an F3's shutter curtains
(which can be had new). And yes, you will need to break open that piggy bank (again).
What do all of the dials and levers on the back of the MD-2(1)
- Going from right to left, you have the two contacts for the
MF-3 stop back, the rewind button lever, the countdown timer knob, the firing rate
control, the rewind engagement lever and locking button, and the back-opening lever.
You can set the countdown timer knob to count down the appropriate
number of frames before it stops shooting pictures, or you can put it in "S"
to allow an indefinite amount of pictures to be taken.
To rewind the film, first push up on the rewind button lever
(push the silver button in the middle of this lever first), then hold the small button
to the left of the rewind engagement lever down and push the engagement lever to
the right. To stop the rewind, just push the engagment lever back to the left.
To open the back, flip the opening lever out and push it to
The firing rate control dictates the speed of the motor, as
well as the minimum shutter speed required to sustain the speed. Falling below the
speed is not catastrophic, as long as you don't do it regularly; however, be advised
that the motor will mindlessly advance the film whether or not the exposure has been
completed. After all, if you're going to take pictures at about 1/8th or slower,
the motordrive doesn't really need to be turned on.
Note that the MD-1 lacks the rewind contacts (for the MF-3)
on the back of the drive and has a large, square firing button, rather than the small,
round button of the MD-2. Both buttons are detachable, for "remote" (i.e.
Hold on. The MF-3 is a stop back for the F2?
- Yep. It provides leader-out rewind like the MF-6(B) does for
the F3 and also gives you a neat thumb rest for your right hand. I'm thinking of
trying to find one just for the thumb rest, because the F2 with the MD-2 is a large,
heavy brick of a camera, and the thumb rest would make it nicer to hold.
So what's the bun, huh?
- Bun's not meat nor cheese.
How come the MD-3 is so much cheaper than the MD-2 (or MD-1)?
- The MD-3 lacks the power rewind and firing rate converter
of the MD-2(1). It also has no provision for leaving the film leader out on rewind.
Because it has no converter, you can only use the MD-3 on continuous at sync speed
(1/80) and higher; slower than that, and you need to use single-shot mode. Actually,
Nikon discontinued parts for the MD-3 only recently, so keeping and running one wouldn't
be too expensive (although there is a certain nylon gear in the MD-3 that is notorious
for stripping and causing failure -- witness the number of "inoperable"
MD-3's for sale today). The MD-3 is nice (because it lacks the power rewind) in that
you can take the drive off of the camera in the middle of the roll and not fog the
film. It's also nice in that it runs happily (and in fact was designed for) the MB-2
battery pack, which only requires you to sling 8 AA's around your neck (rather than
the 10 that the MB-1 demands) -- it will work with the MB-1, though. Predictably,
the MD-3 is somewhat slower than the MD-2, although if you're not shooting with NiCads,
you probably won't notice the difference.
My serial number is 76xxxxx. What's significant about it?
- The Amazing Kreskin (the amazing who?) says ... you have a
chrome F2. Amaze your friends! Awe your coworkers! Tell them that if the serial number's
second digit is an even number, the camera is chrome; if odd, the camera is black.
The legend that the camera was made in the year shown in the first two digits is
thus probably false, unless you think that Nikon made only one color per year. The
major exceptions to this are the titanium versions of the F2, which begin with serial
number 92xxxxx and have a black pebbled finish, much like the F3/T in black finish.
"Moose" Peterson says that early (71xxxxx and 72xxxxx)
F2's have a small problem with the take-up spool: these can supposedly cause some
frame overlap when using a motordrive (but should be fine if you wind-by-hand).
I've received information in the past weeks that there do exist
chrome 73's and black 74's. Apparently Nikon changed the serial numbering scheme
with the 75's and later (which should follow the even = chrome / odd = black system).
How do I get exposure information from lenses/objects without
the coupling prong (or for lenses slower than f/5.6) on the prong-metering finders
(DP-1, -2, -3)?
- With no lens mounted on the camera, push the coupling prong
straight up into the finder body and use stop-down metering.
For the AI finders (DP-11 and -12), press the aperture coupling
tab upwards (towards the finder) and to the right (i.e. towards the rewind knob)
until it locks into place. To drop it down again, slide the release to the right.
When doing macrophotography, what is the exact film-plane-to-subject
- According to Nikon, the film plane is at the top edge of the
serial numbers. See, they were concerned enough for you to make it subtle, and not
have people stop you in airports with flowers; they might see the line-through-a-circle
symbol on other cameras and misinterpret it as a cult-brethren mark.
Hey! I don't want to have to buy an F just to use flashbulbs,
so let me know how to set the appropriate sync.
- According to the Nikon-Nikkormat Handbook, the F2 automatically
adjusts itself to set the appropriate sync, but certain speeds are unuseable with
flashbulbs of different types, listed in the table below:
| |2|1| | | |x| | | | | | | | |
| bulb |0|0|5|2|1| | | | | | | | | |
| type |0|0|0|5|2|8|6|3|1| | | | | |
| FP | | | | | |%|%| | | | | | | |
| M |%|%|%|%| |%|%| | | | | | | |
| MF |%|%|%|%|%|%|%| | | | | | | |
"%" -- shutter speed cannot be used
" " -- shutter speed can be used
Yes, it seems strange to me, too, that you can't fire at the
"sync" speed of 1/80 with any bulb.
What different models of the 55f/3.5 Micro did Nikon offer,
- Nikon offered three different models: earliest (preset), compensating
diaphragm, and TTL metering non-compensating Micro (with different cosmetics, later
- f=55mm 1:3.5 Micro-Nikkor
- This was the preset-diaphragm model, which was offered in
a helical mount that focussed continuously to a 1:1 reproduction ratio.
- f=55mm 1:3.5 Micro-Nikkor Auto
- This is the compensating-diaphragm model which focusses to
1:2. As this lens is focussed closer, the aperture set by the aperture ring changes
until, at 1:2, it is one full stop more open than is indicated by the setting. This
is to compensate for the bellows/extension exposure factor, which is dependent on
- f=55mm 1:3.5 Micro-Nikkor-P Auto
- This lens does not automatically compensate, and is designed
for meters reading through-the-lens (in stop-down mode), which automatically accounts
for bellows factor. But then again, if you're metering with a hand-held meter, it's
useful to know that bellows factor gives
where [mag ratio] is the magnification ratio in use, i.e.
(effective aperture) = (set aperture)*(1 + [mag ratio])
When I say X1:X2, I mean that X1 is the feature size on the film,
and X2 is the physical feature size, e.g. 1:3 implies that an object that is 30mm
long will be reproduced as an image 10mm long on film.
a picture taken at 1:2 has a [mag ratio] = 0.5
a picture taken at 1:1 has a [mag ratio] = 1.0
a picture taken at 2:1 has a [mag ratio] = 2.0, etc.
- f=55mm 1:3.5 Micro-Nikkor-P.C Auto
- This is the same lens as above, but with slightly different
cosmetics (diamond-rubber studded focus ring) and multicoating. It focusses to 1:2
and does not compensate.
How can you tell what a xx-x accessory is?
- Courtesy of Isaac Chan.
Nikon used a fairly consistent naming system for its line of
accessories beginning in the late 60's with its flash units, and eventually spreading
across the line. The first two letters let you know what sort of product it is, and
the trailing number tells you in what order it was introduced, e.g. a xx-4 will predate
a xx-5. Note that in some cases, there may not be a xx-1. Although Nikon never officially
gave a product a certain xx-x designation, it still counts as the first product of
its class, and Nikon did not reuse the designation.
For example, when Nikon introduced its first bellows unit,
it was designated "Bellows 1" and was designed for the S-series rangefinders.
The version with the F-mount was designated "Bellows 2" (later Bellows
2a, with a minor modification). When Nikon started using their xx-x naming convention,
the next bellows to be introduced was named the PB-3 (a fairly rare and very compact
octagonal bellows unit), rather than starting over at PB-1. The AP-2 panorama head
is another good example. On the other hand, Nikon did start over at DA-1, DE-1, etc.
with the F2 line of finders.
- Ax-x -- miscellaneous accessories
- AF-x -- gelatin filter holder
- AH-x -- tripod adapter (or hand strap)
- AN-x -- camera strap
- AP-x -- panorama head
- AR-x -- cable release
- AS-x -- flash couplers
- AU-x -- focussing unit
- AW-x -- auto winder (for Nikkormat)
- Bx-x -- has to do with bulb flashes (or bellows)
- BC-x -- bulb flash unit
- BD-x -- bulb flash sync cord
- BF-x -- body cap (male bayonet)
- BR-x -- ring for use on bellows unit
- Cx-x -- camera eveready and other cases
- CA-x -- filter case
- CE-x -- lens case (telephoto)
- CF-x -- semi-soft eveready case
- CH-x -- hard eveready case
- CL-x -- lens case
- CP-x -- plastic lens case (bubble case)
- CS-x -- soft pouch eveready case
- CTx -- hard eveready case
- CT-x -- telephoto hard lens case
- CU-x -- focussing unit
- CZ-x -- lens case
- Dx-x -- has to do with finders
- DA-x -- action finder
- DB-x -- EE aperture battery pack (also cold-weather
- DE-x -- eyelevel finder
- DF-x -- finder for special purpose lenses
- DG-x -- eyepiece magnifier
- DH-x -- NC charger
- DK-x -- eyecup (or miscellaneous eyepiece accessory)
- DL-x -- Photomic needle illuminator
- DM-x -- connecting cord for DS-x to DB-x
- DN-x -- NC battery pack for EE aperture unit
- DP-x -- metered Photomic finder
- DR-x -- right-angle viewing adapter
- DS-x -- EE aperture control
- DW-x -- waistlevel finder
- Ex-x -- slide copier units (now appropriated for digital
- ES-x -- slide copy unit (also AC charger for E2n)
- Fx-x -- compartment cases (gadget bags)
- FB-x -- compartment case
- Hx-x -- lens hoods
- HB-x -- bayonet-mount hood
- HE-x -- extension hood for IF-ED "N" telephoto
- HK-x -- slip-on hood
- HN-x -- metal threaded hood
- HR-x -- rubber threaded hood
- HS-x -- snap-on hood
- Lx-x -- rear caps, power units
- LA-x -- AC unit for ring flashes
- LD-x -- DC unit for ring flashes
- LF-x -- rear lens cap (female bayonet)
- Mx-x -- has to do with motor drives, camera backs,
or remote controls
- MA-x -- AC unit
- MB-x -- battery pack
- MC-x -- motor connection cord
- MD-x -- motor drive
- ME-x -- motor sync extension cord
- MF-x -- camera back
- MH-x -- NC battery charger
- MK-x -- firing rate converter
- ML-x -- infrared remote set
- MN-x -- NC battery clip
- MR-x -- motor drive shutter release
- MS-x -- alkaline battery clip
- MT-x -- intervalometer
- MW-x -- wireless radio-wave remote set
- MZ-x -- bulk film cassette
- Px-x -- has to do with macro/extension items
- PB-x -- bellows unit
- PC-x -- table clamp
- PF-x -- repro-copy outfit
- PG-x -- macro focussing stage
- PH-x -- camera cradle
- PK-x -- meter-coupled, diaphragm-coupled extension
- PN-x -- meter-coupled, diaphragm-coupled extension
- PS-x -- slide copier unit for bellows
- Sx-x -- has to do with flashes
- SA-x -- AC unit
- SB-x -- speedlite unit
- SC-x -- flash sync cord
- SD-x -- flash battery pack
- SE-x -- flash extension cord (please, no jokes)
- SF-x -- flash readylight adapter
- SH-x -- NC battery charger
- SK-x -- handlemount flash bracket
- SL-x -- mounting ring
- SM-x -- ringlight, bayonet mount (reversed lens)
- SN-x -- NC battery
- SR-x -- ringlight, thread mount
- SS-x -- soft case
- SU-x -- sensor unit
- SW-x -- wideangle adapter
- Tx-x -- teleconverters
- TC-x -- teleconverter
- Ux-x -- adapter rings
- UR-x -- filter adapter ring
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