Minolta XD-7 (XD-11) - Multimode SLR
The Minolta Lens mount of the XD-7.
Earlier MC (Meter Coupled) lenses have an auto diaphragm which allowed viewing and metering at full aperture. The later MD lenses is the same as with the MC but have their smallest aperture (largest f number) marked in green (As the Canon FD lenses).
But only the MD lenses are enjoying the full potential of all the AUTO modes available in the XD-7. However, when a MC lens is used on the XD-7, Minolta claimed the shutter priority AE will not function.
But I doubt whether it is the case if the MC lens used is set to a minimum aperture value and whether the camera will stop the lens down to a selected given aperture by the computer circuits just as the Nikon had on their AI-S lenses designed for the Nikon FG or even the multimode Nikon FA. Anyway, Since I am rather weak on the compatibility issue, Minolta's official reference should be the used as a guide.
Battery and Power
Two 1.5-volt silver-oxide (Eveready EPX76/S-76 or equivalent) or alkaline-manganese (Eveready A-76 or equivalent) batteries, supply the power for the meter, electronic exposure control, electronic shutter settings, and LED indication.
Note: View shown at the left is with the battery compartment (1) taken off. The tripod socket (2) has a tr-screws to secure even if a heavy lens or accessory is mounted.
Something relates to battery issues:
1. Using a coin or similar object, turn the battery-chamber cover counterclockwise and remove it.
2. After wiping terminals with a clean dry cloth and handling only by the edges, insert two of the specified batteries (+) side out into the sleeve on the inside of the cover. (If batteries are inserted incorrectly, they will not make contact, and no current will flow.)
3. Replace the cover and screw it in clockwise as far as it will go.
* Related article on mechanical and battery dependent electronic cameras.
Since the XD-7 is an electronic camera, you have to install battery to power its main functions like the metering, electronically control and timed shutter. This applies on all the later electronic camera models regardless of brands made.
Early days of auto cameras need to "convince" hard-core mechanical SLR users to think automatic cameras are very reliable and dependable. That means during the stage of designing a 'new' model, a lot of emphasize are concentrating around power efficiency issue. Those days, most MF camera bodies need only tiny button cell(s) to power either its metering in the case of mechanical bodies or ist electronically timed shutter and metering circuitry for about a year (Depends on usage). A popular feature on electronic model is usually supplied with a mechanical back up lever feature plus the "B" setting - just in case the all important cells fail to function normally or depleted halfway during a photo session. The XD-7, in this case has a way to check its battery condition at any time, the battery condition check lever/indication LED light at the back of the body for you to monitor the battery level at all time.
The battery compartment is located on the camera base, just next to the tripod socket. You can simply remove the battery clip by inserting a coin into the slotted battery chamber lid and turning it in a counterclockwise direction. Make sure the battery contacts are clean. As most problems arise from cameras are battery related. Sometimes, even an invisible film can prevent proper contact like your sebum or oily finger tips. Generally, as for normal guideline in camera care, never hold any cells in the center, only at the side.
You may use either a clean cloth to clean off a light layer of oxidation, and a pencil eraser will remove heavier deposits that may deposited at the cells' polarity marks front and back or the contact point (battery clip) inside the camera battery compartment. After correct installation, insert the holder back into the battery chamber using a coin to screw it securely into place and your camera will be ready to function. If it doesn't, open and check the polarity marks on the cells.
You may think this is a joke to tell you all these simple basic steps in handling the battery(ies). But over the years, I did came across many instances where the corrosive or bad contacts inside battery chamber was the main culprit which cause the camera fails to function normally. This applies to many other cameras, resulting generally in failed metering for the mechanical or any full blown AE bodies. Thus, in any case, IF you happen to lay off your camera for a extended period of time unattended, it is always a good practice to remove the cells inside the camera.
Caution: 1.When the camera is attached to the AUTO Winder, make sure the power is switched off when it is not in use to prevent drain of both the camera and the motor drive's batteries.
3. When the batteries are dead or there are none installed in the camera, the only two settings which can be used are 'B' and "O" position at the shutter speed dial. If you trip the shutter with the camera set to any other speed, the shutter won't open or the reflex mirror may remain in the "up" position. If the mirror locks up, simply turn the shutter speed dial to either 'B' or "O" position on the shutter speed dial and the mirror should return to its normal viewing position. Then you can install new batteries.
While looking through the viewfinder, depress the shutter release slightly. If any of the LED's on the right side of the viewfinder light, the batteries are serviceable. Test batteries immediately after installing them.
If no LED's light, make sure that they are fresh and have been inserted correctly.
Note: A set of batteries will generally last for about one year in proper normal use.
When the batteries are nearly exhausted the LED's will become dim. When they become difficult or impossible to see, you should change the batteries, although proper automatic exposure is still possible for a short time after the LED's stop functioning.
If battery voltage becomes insufficient while the camera is at an electronic setting (i.e., any one other than "B" or "O"), pushing the operating button will not release the shutter.
Note: The XD-7 can be operated without replacing batteries in "O" and "B" mechanical settings, or at any electronic or mechanical setting after inserting serviceable batteries.
Suggestions when used the camera in Cold-weather condition
Batteries by nature tend to decrease in capacity as the temperature goes down. Though the silver-oxide batteries used for the XD-7 are superior to most others in this respect, it also happens with them.
If old batteries are used at temperatures below 0°C (32°F), the camera's electronic operation may not be satisfactory. You should thus replace older batteries with fresh ones before using your XD-7 in cold weather and carry fresh spare batteries with you during such use. Battery capacity will be restored to its normal level when the batteries are warmed to their recommended operating temperature range.
Be careful NOT to use 1.3v mercury batteries, Eveready EPX-675 or equivalent, which have a similar shape. Be careful not to let anything rest on the operating button either while the camera is being carried or in storage. Pressure on this button may depress it far enough to activate the metering circuit and drain the battery.
Note: If the camera is not to be used for more than two weeks, it is advisable to remove the batteries. ï Fresh spare batteries may be stored in the battery holder provided with the camera strap.
Loading and Advancing Film
1. Pull out on the back cover release knob until the camera back springs open. 2. Leaving the knob pulled out, position a film cartridge in the chamber with the projecting-spool end toward the bottom of the camera. Then push the back-cover release knob all the way in, rotating it slightly to do so if necessary.
3. Insert the end of the film leader as shown into one of the slots in the take-up spool so that the tooth is engaged with a sprocket hole near the end of the leader. Make sure that the end of the leader does not project from another slot between tabs on the spool .
4. With the shutter speed selector set to "X" or mode selector at "M", operate the film advance lever slowly until the film has begun to wind firmly around the take-up spool and the sprocket teeth are engaged with holes on both edges of the film.
If the advance lever stops at the end of a full stroke during this procedure, release the shutter and continue
5.Close the camera back and push in on it until in clicks locked.
6. A red "S" should now appear opposite the index in the frame-counter window. Advance the film and release the shutter until the index points to "1" on the frame counter dial.
7. A red bar should also now appear at the extreme left in the Safe Load Signal window. This indicates that the film is loaded and winding properly on the take-up spool.
If the Safe Load Signal does not appear or swings far to the right in the window, repeat steps 1 through 6 to assure that film is properly engaged on the spool. As you continue to take pictures, the red signal will move gradually toward the right in the window, indicating that film is advancing properly.
Caution: Film should be handled and loading done in subdued light - at least shaded from direct sunlight by the body.
Film-advance lever and frame counter
The film-advance lever is designed with 30° unengaged movement before the beginning of its engaged stroke to allow swinging it out from the body so that the right thumb will fit comfortably behind it. Continuing to move the lever until it stops, an angle of 130°, advances film and frame counter and cocks the shutter for the next exposure (To cock the shutter without advancing film).
When the lever stops and resists further movement at the end of a film, never attempt to force it farther. The frame counter does not advance when two or more exposures are made on the same frame. The counter automatically resets for film loading when the camera back is opened.
Each film on the market has an ASA or DIN exposure index number to indicate its sensitivity to light. For correct exposure, the meter must be set for the effective exposure index of the film in use.
To do this, depress the selector release and turn the film-speed selector until the proper ASA value indication clicks into place opposite its index.
Dots between numbered graduations indicate ASA numbers as shown at right. Caution: When setting film speed, the index of the exposure-adjustment control should generally be locked at its zero position.
ASA/DIN conversion scale
A convenient scale for converting DIN to ASA film-speed ratings is located on the back cover of the camera (See below). It is reproduced at the right for your easy reference. I do remembered those days there are some cameras did imprint the conversion table on the back of the camera, but a hardly seen feature even during the early '80. The mid eighties every manufacturers came out with their respective auto DX code models (Mostly came with built-in winder or motor drive).
With auto DX coding, you can use the memo holder to remind you with the type of film in use.
Around the ASA/DIN conversion scale is a convenient frame that can be used to keep memos handy with the camera. It is just the right size to hold the film-box end, which can be inserted as a reminder of the film in use.
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Copyright © 2000 leofoo® MIR Web Development Team
Credit: Satosh Oka for some of the very high quality images for the Minolta CD-7 and XK Motor used in this site. Oleg Volk, who has offered some help during the initial stage of development of this site; Stephen Schwartz on the few new images of XK; Mark Wasmer for the original Brouche of the few Minolta cameras; Dick Sullivan whom I used some of his info as reference in this site; Mr Poon who has helped me eith some of the images used in this site. Minolta, XD-7, XK, XM, X1, Rokkor, MC lenses are either registered tradenames or trade mark of Milnolta Optical Co. Ltd, Japan. Asite dedicted to all Minolta fans worldwide.