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1. From : jason m. land (nomeatoburrito@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:43 PM Friday 30 April, 2004

dennis: thanks for the help! when i have the battery in, the light meter *does* turn on, and the battery check *does* work. however, doing that did not allow the shutter to fire when the battery is in place. i removed the bottom plate as you mentioned, but don't see anything that looks corroded (this is my first time opening up the camera to see its inner workings!). one thing i should mention, and i don't know if this would make a difference but, when i left the camera out in the rain, the camera was lying on its back, not sitting upright on its bottom plate. so i'm wondering if there's any corrosion that it might be just beneath the front face of the camera (which had the most exposure to the rain) or somewhere in the back (which i doubt as there's probably not much electronics in the back). anyway, if you or anyone has other ideas, please let me know. thanks again!!!

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2. From : Kenneth (kennieoldman@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:57 PM Wednesday 28 April, 2004

After years of patience (thanks to the rush to the digital age of SLR photography) - I have finally got a reasonably cheap, mint condition New F-1 LA Olympic with AE finder and a motor drive FN. It is my dream setup (within my financial capacity). More satisfying is, I have found this website and this great forum. It is double joy ! Thanks everyone for upkeeping this place so up-to-date because no one seems to bother with older classic anymore. Cheers !

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3. From : Smitty (smitty664@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:30 AM Wednesday 28 April, 2004

Smeat, Thanks for the advice. I didn't think of testing it without the battery. The battery check still says the battery is o.k., but I have had fresh batteries not work properly straight out of the box. I am going to run your test on it and see how it turns out. Thanks again---Smitty

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4. From : smeat (jg38141@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:25 AM Monday 26 April, 2004

generally when that happens to me- it's happened twice- while the battery isn't "dead" it is "dead enough". I find putting a new battery in fixes the problem of the shutter occasional fire problem. To TEST my theory- take the batter out all together- you can still use the higher shutter speeds. And just fire away and see if it ever locks up. Using just the mechanical shutter it should do just fine.

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5. From : Smitty (smitty664@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:01 PM Sunday 25 April, 2004

I have a the newest version of the F-1. The camera is in excellent condition and everything has been functioning properly, until a couple of days ago. The problem is, that the shutter does not always release. The meter turns on, but when the button is full depressed nothing happens. It happens with the winder shutter release as well. It has happened with and without the winder on the camera. It doesn't happen very often and there is no set pattern. It will be greatly appreciated if anyone has any input on this problem or a solution. Thanks--- Smitty

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6. From : barry Lockyer (abbl@att.net)
Url : http://home.att.net/~b.lockyer/
Date : 03:16 AM Sunday 25 April, 2004

I was browsing in the local camera shop in their bargain box for old Canon F1 items, nothing worth bothering with, when I saw the new accessory rack opposite, they had Nikon FM eyecups for $8, it looked the same dimensions as the F1, when I got home, I discarded the Nikon plastic retaining ring, the rubber cup fitted niceley over the New F1 N retaining ring. They are asking up to $30 on EBay to buy them now.

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7. From : Dennis (misterkash@sympatico.ca)
Url : http://
Date : 09:16 AM Saturday 24 April, 2004

Jason, when you remove the battery from an F1n the camera will use it's mechanical shutter. The F1n has mechanical shutter speeds between 1/2000 to 1/90s (this may be why you think it is all the same speed) and Bulb. Note that the F1n is the only camera that I know of that can do this. Does the meter turn on with the battery ... or the battery check ? If the battery check works ... see if you can release the shutter after doing a battery check. If so then there is a contact at the bottom of the camera is is possibly corroded. You will have to take the bottom plate off to see it.

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8. From : jason m. land (nomeatoburrito@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:53 AM Saturday 24 April, 2004

i'm wondering if there's anyone here that can provide some advice. i have a canon F1n which i accidentally left outside during a heavy rainstorm (i'm still kicking myself for being so stupid). needless to say, the camera is not working now. i dried and aired it out as best as i could, perhaps in vain. currently, the shutter will only fire if i remove the battery from the camera. doing so only gives me one shutter speed (i think) regardless of the setting on the shutter speed dial (i.e. i get the same results at 1/2000 as i do at 1/2. also, the bulb function does work properly.

when i put the battery back in the camera, the shutter does not function at all (even with a brand new battery).

does anyone have any thoughts or advice on this situation? the camera was working fine before this mishap, but the body has a lot of brassing and wear and tear. i'm wondering if i should go to the time and expense to try and fix this? or maybe i should try to sell it on ebay as a fixer-upper camera? or am i at a total loss? any help would be greatly appreciated! please feel free to email me directly. thanks! jason

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9. From : mark wahlster (awahlster@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:06 PM Friday 16 April, 2004

If you are talking about a meter probe. It won't do you much good with a 35mm camera as you aren't going to be able to have it at the film plane like you could with a View camera or a field camera that uses film holders. There would be no way to have the probe at the film plane when there was film in the camera. And you would have to figure out what the compensation was if you used it through the viewfinder as it would not be a direct reading with the light loss from the mirror screen and prism all lowering the amount of light hitting the probe.

You would be WAY ahead to just use a reflective flash meter and meter the light hitting your subject. Or if not possible then rely on an incedence reading.

The T90's special flash abilities (TTL) is only available with the 300TL flash and some limited TTL is available with some of the later EF mount flashes.

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10. From : James McCulloch (english_electric@msn.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:01 PM Thursday 15 April, 2004

Re the ML3 flash for the F1n. There is a very useful acessory made my Minolta that could help with getting correct flash exposures. Its their FlashmeterIV that has a special cable attached between the flashmeter and the film plane or viewfinder. I have seen this set up and its one way of getting round the fact that the Caon F1n does not have TTL capapbility. You may wish to consider getting a T90 instead that has very versatile flash metering capabilities when linked to a 300TL.

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