Nikon F3 w/zoom MD-4.jpg (18k)

Modern Classic SLRs Series :

Nikon F3 - widely regarded as one of the most reliable electronic camera of all time and it was also the longest serving Nikon F-Series SLR camera. This evergreen model remains a hot favorite among many working pro and serious amateurs As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself and that includes how one handles his own photographic tools, this section allows you to share your knowledge & mutual experience using the camera. Some of the opinion presented within the site was specifically my personal experience and I do not wish to influence any decision prior to any potential purchases or disposal. You may make use of this convenience here to present your own views. Enjoy.

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1. From : Jon (
Url : http://
Date : 11:17 AM Friday 27 July, 2001

Thanks Walt
That is what seems to be the most common situation. The only written article I have concerning the MH-2 is in a Photo '84 Buying Guide article re the F3 and I quote:
"The (dimensions), 19oz charger is supplied with either a 220V or 110V AC cord (or both if you need them) with a permanently-attached 6ft charging cord and plug."
That does seem to indicate that the charger is not too fussy about the input voltage, but I would love to have that confirmed by a genuine Nikon publication (the manual would be perfect) before I go plug one into 240V.
Thanks again

2. From : Walt (
Url : http://
Date : 09:43 AM Thursday 26 July, 2001


The picture of the MH-2 on B&H Photo's website only shows one AC cord, and it appears to have a standard 120V plug on the end. The information listed on the site does not indicate any choice of voltage, so I would assume that a MH-2 sold in the US would come equipped for 120V. There may be a switch on the unit to select 220/240V, but there are no outward signs of it, and if it was so equipped, you would probably need to use an adapter to fit 220/240 receptacles.


3. From : Walt (
Url : http://
Date : 09:30 AM Thursday 26 July, 2001


The F3 is listed on KEH's website in "Excellent" condition, which is 80-89% of new condition, for $525.00. If you can get one in approximately that condition for $400, it sounds like a good deal.


4. From : Robert Gerard (
Url : http://
Date : 05:48 AM Thursday 26 July, 2001

Is it still possible to get the F3HP manual in pdf format. I'd certainly appreciate a copy.

Thanks ,


5. From : douglas duren (
Url : http://
Date : 05:22 AM Wednesday 25 July, 2001

I am looking into the purchase of an F3 with standard viewfinder. It is priced at $440.00. Could you please give me an idea as to the going price for a F3. It is in good shape with some wear.

6. From : Hermann Graf (
Url : http://
Date : 08:49 PM Tuesday 24 July, 2001

To Walzi: I would not only check the negatives but also the prints from the negatives in order to discover any light leaks. When the distance between the frames varies a little, it's not a big fault, as long as you actually get 36 exposed frames from 36 frames film (or sometimes even more). Also check with a flash mounted on. As far as I know, the only difference between a F3 and a F3HP is the viewfinder prism (DE-2 instead of DE-1): the DE-2 is greater in size, heavier, the eyepiece is larger in diameter, and shows 100% of what is on the film. Both are equipped with an eyepiece shutter. With the DE-2, you need not come so close to the eyepiece as with the DE-1.

7. From : Jon (
Url : http://
Date : 01:13 PM Tuesday 24 July, 2001

I have a question re the MH-2 charger for the MD4 Nicad packs.
Some people have informed me that the charger works on both 110V or 220/240V and auto selects the power source.I've been told it was sold new with two power cords - you used the one that fitted the wall socket.
Other people have assured me there are two separate models, a 110V version and a 220/240V version.

HELP - I'm confused!!
Any help much appreciated

8. From : Walzi daSilva (
Url :
Date : 08:39 PM Saturday 21 July, 2001

To Hermann Graff & Terence Walls: Thank you for your advice. In fact I was given the chance to test the camera before buying it. The price is about US$320 - but I still do not know the costs of a curtain replacement. Its serial # traces its birthdate back to the beginning of the 80's - so it seems to be a F3 body with an HP viewfinder attached on it, rather than a newer F3HP. So far it has not shown any leakage problem, although delivering amazing results. However my doubts still persist: (1) is there any difference between a F3HP and an old F3 with an HP viewfinder? (2) Observing the negatives after processing, I saw that the white space between two images is varying within a 1mm range (that is,it randomly stretchs from 2mm to 3mm). I am inclined to ignore this camera; yet as I said it is pretty difficult to find MINT here. Thank you again.


9. From : danilo (
Url : http://
Date : 07:18 PM Saturday 21 July, 2001

Thanks for the time-proven advises you guys have contributed in this forum. I would like to get your opinions concerning the change of the focusing screen from the K to a Beattie split-imag e with 45 degree, no grid lines. Any unlikely change in metering outcome as they are much brighter? Like 1 to l l/2 stop more? Are Beattie's recommended or shouldn't be? I have one in my FM2 for years and it really helps me alot. With my new F3 hp, its another story?
Also I read of some recommending the F4 B screen which can be used with the F3 inspite of its size as bit smaller? Would this be a better option as it offer a brighter image? How much brighter difference is it with a Beattie known for brightness in the aftermarket source?
I ask these questions because I had high regards for the BEattie but lately I was advise not to because of the metering change in F stops. The fact is : stick to what's original. I just need some pro advise if any are willing to give so I can weigh my options.
Thank you, Danny

10. From : Walt (
Url : http://
Date : 04:28 AM Friday 20 July, 2001


That's exactly the combination I have. The F3HP, the MD-4 and a Sunpak 555 flash. I love it. The flash is powerful, but very controllable, and with the TTL flash capability of the F3HP, I get good exposures virtually every time.

The MD-4 mounts directly to the bottom of the camera, and I mount the 555 below that. I also have an AH-3 tripod adapter mounted on the bottom of the MD-4 to relocate the tripod socket back to the center of the camera. It's offset on the MD-4.

The whole rig is fairly heavy, but it gives a solid feel to the set-up and is not too bad. You're carrying around 14 AA batteries with the whole rig assembled (8 in the MD-4 and 6 in the 555).

You will need to get a Sunpak dedicated module, the NE-3D, to use with the F3's TTL capability, along with the Sunpak EXT-11 cord to connect the module to the flash unit. The module had the funny fitting on the bottom to connect to the F3's flash connection.

I have had this set-up about 3 years and have taken a lot of photos with it. Good luck.


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