Nikon F2 Accessories
I once read over the Usenet (I believe the author was David Rosen) that the whole mythos of the F2 being the quintissential pro photographer's camera of the 1970's was based on a rapidly disappearing and expensive pool of accessories. In all truth, the F2 is as versatile a camera as you can find, but no more versatile than, say, a F4 with its varied accessories, and if what you're looking for is a highly accessorizable camera, I'd have to recommend getting an F3 (which at this point has cheaper accessories than the F2) or an F5 (which can play neat metering tricks that its great-grandparent can only dream of, but whose accessories are hellaciously expensive -- you can buy a new N90s at list for less than you'd spend on the DA-30, the F5's action finder).
That said, there's still a bewildering array of accessories floating around out there (what's an MS-2?) for the F2 (it's the battery clip that goes in the MB-2; it holds four AA's). Some of it is interesting, at least, so you might as well see what's available.
MD-1/MB-1
The first motordrive for the F2 was designated MD-1; it took the MB-1 battery pack,
which accepted either two MS-1 battery clips (each containing five AA cells) or two
MN-1 NiCad battery packs. MD-1's have an "MD-1" designation. The early
MB-1's may be distinguished by having a needle-movement battery check on the right
hand side of the pack (i.e. the side with the little extension for the handle); later
MB-1's have a double LED indication -- when both light up, the batteries are all
right; if only one lights up, the batteries are a little weak, and if none of them
show, you should replace soon (although you might be able to shoot some more -- it's
possible to run the MD-1 on at least 12V). The MD-1 has a firing rate converter that
advises a minimum shutter speed to use for a given rate (of fps). It provides power
rewind and a countdown timer similar to the one on the F36 (i.e. a fixed number of
shots before stopping the shooting). The top firing rate of appox. 4.5fps is available
with the mirror locked up and a healthy jolt of power from the MN-1 NiCads. In normal
use (>1/125 and AA Alkalines), you can get about 3.5fps. For more information
about how to use the MD-1 (or 2), please see the questions page.
MD-2/MB-1
The MD-2 provides the same features as the MD-1, but also adds leader-out rewind
(with the optional MF-3 back). It has a small round firing button rather than the
large square button of the MD-1. It is as heavy as the F2 itself and can intimidate
those who don't remember much about cameras of the 1970s (my word, look at the size
of that thing! s/he must be a pro!).
MD-3/MB-2
The MD-3 is a simplified motordrive that lacks power rewind and the firing rate convertor
of the MD-1/2. It was designed for the somewhat lighter MB-2, which takes eight AA
alkalines (no NiCad option) in two MS-2 battery clips. It will shoot in continuous
mode at sync speed (1/80) or faster; otherwise it will take single shots at 1/2 or
faster. Top speed is appox. 3fps? with the MB-1 and appox. 2.5fps? with the MB-2.
MD-100/MB-100
The MD-100 is a modified MD-2 designed specifically for use with the F2-H variants.
The MB-100 may be thought of as a double MB-1 (which only accepts four MN-1 NiCads).
From what I know, the firing button on the MD-100 is not removable, as it is on the
MD-2. Other than that, it's your typical 30V motordrive (do I hear a call for the
SB-6 repeating flash?).
MR-1, -2 releases
These releases screw into the three-pin motordrive socket on the front of the MD-1/2.
They provide an alternate (vertical) shutter release and enable the use of the F/F2-style
shutter release with the motordrive.
MN-1/MH-1
The MN-1 is the appropriate NiCad battery that goes in the MB-1; the MH-1 is the
corresponding charger.
MS-1, -2 clips
These are the battery clips for the MB-1 and MB-2, respectively; the MS-1 takes five
AA batteries and the MS-2 takes four. Two of each are needed for one battery pack
(i.e. you would put two MS-1's into a single MB-1). Take note that these clips are
approximately as hard to find as, say, a 300f/4.5 ED (non-IF) lens, or even more
esoterically, a 105f/4
Preset. In other words, it's not worth buying a MB-1
or -2 without the clips, even if you did get a good deal on them, unless you're fairly
handy at refurbishing your own NiCad packs (MN-1's are a lot easier to find, but
they're pretty much all dead by now). Those of you with MS-1/2's should take good
care of them (store batteries out of the clips).