Credit: ALL Illustrations
contributed by : Simon
Cheong,
Hong Kong
Edited text by: Azrul, Malaysia.
Subject: F3AF
To: leofoo@mir.com.my
MIME-Version: 1.0
Status:

A) The serial numbers
start with AF (mine was AF 8308448) |
I tragically don't
have a manual for this camera, but I can tell you a few things about it. This camera
has all the same functions as a regular F3 except in a few areas:
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B) If you remove the DX-1 pentaprism, there will be a set of gold contacts located
just ahead of where a focusing screen would be. These contacts re-emerge on the inside
of the lens mount where todays regular AF cameras have their AF contacts. When the
pentaprism is replaced, these contacts will mate with another set of contacts on
the pentaprism. Therefore the contacts on the camera body are an intermediary between
the pentaprism and the AF lens.
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C) The lens AF motor
is driven by the power supplied by the DX-1 pentaprism. The camera body itself has
no control over AF functions. When the light meter is activated by depressing the
shutter halfway, the lens will start focusing in a similar fashion as 'Continuous
Servo' on todays cameras. There is no single servo mode. The AF lenses come with
TWO focus lock buttons since there is no single servo mode.
D) The DX-1 pentaprism has a standard set of red left and right arrows to indicate
focusing accuracy just like todays cameras. When non AF lenses are used, the arrows
still function as a rangefinder.
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E) The DX-1 pentaprism is powered by two AAA batteries that honestly don't last
too long. After 2 to 3 rolls of film, expect focusing speed to falter. The AF system
is primitive and rather slow at times, but it is accurate. If you use it outdoors,
you should have no problem in the focusing department. The battery cover on the DX-1
is VERY flimsy and can easily break if you are not careful. It also tends to get
lost very easily. I have seen a few F3AFs with missing DX-1 battery covers. Some
people also have been known to leave the batteries in for too long causing them to
leak and ruin everything.
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F) The 80mm f2.8 lens
that I had with the camera is a rear focusing lens and is nearly silent in operation
compared to the AF lenses of today. I have an F5 now and I can honestly say that
neither the 85mm nor the 28-200 are as quiet as the old 80mm f2.8. You might want
to read my review of this lens here.
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G) All F3AFs come with a special focusing screen that is built into the DX-1. Because
the contrast is detected in the pentaprism, a unique focusing screen was fitted to
enable proper AF detection. Todays Nikons have their contrast detection done in the
body of the camera. The DX-1 also has a rubber gasket where it meets the body of
the camera, just like on the DE-3 High Eyepoint prism.
H) Even though many F3AFs today
are sold with either the 80mm or 200mm AF lens, when the camera was new, it was sold
'body only'. Lenses were extra. I got this confirmed by a manager at Photo Shangrila.
I) A special CF series maroon coloured leather case was made for the F3AF. Unlike
the other F3 leather cases, this one had an oversized top to accomadate the large
pentaprism. My guess is, this case may be rarer than the camera itself !
Handling: The F3AF is a VERY top heavy camera. It takes quite a bit of getting
used to because of the excess weight. The oversized pentaprism was very uncomfortable
and made it difficult to handle. The addtion of the MD-4 helps to 'balance' the top
heavy camera, but in total, you have an even heavier camera! The other main problem
that one would have is the battery cover on the prism. Like I said earlier, it tends
to come off. It happened to me once and I was lucky to find the cover in one piece.
I don't think Nikon stocks any parts for the DX-1. The problem starts when you have
to use new AF lenses with the camera; you will have to remove the batteries because
the new lenses will be ruined by the DX-1 or vice versa. Plenty of inconvenience.
Naturally when the F3AF was conceived, the new AF lenses of today did not exist. Until today, nearly 16 years on, Nikon
lens and camera manuals still have warnings about the perils of using accesories
from the F3AF. A ghost from Nikon's past that keeps coming back...
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I also heard that
if the AF stops working, don't bother repairing it. It is very costly to repair.
If you want a more usable F3AF, just buy a focusing screen and a regular DE2 prism
and convert the camera to a full manual focus item. Despite its rarity, this camera
is not particularly 'expensive'. My advice for would be buyers, buy it and keep it.
Use it as a conversation piece, but don't bother using it to take pictures. It handles
awfully.
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I hope some of the info I have given has been of some use to you. Do contact me if
you have anymore questions.
Good talking to you!
Azrul Abdullah, Malaysia
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