Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon F2s Photomic w/DP2 Prism- Instruction Manual
Index Page - Part I

 
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Install the Batteries

The exposure meter in the Photomic finder is powered by two 1.5V silver-oxide batteries which are supplied with the camera. To install the batteries, twist the cap on the camera base plate with a coin or similar object to remove it and drop the batteries into the battery chamber. Make sure that the plus (+) side faces out. Then replace the cap.

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Caution: Remove the batteries when the camera is not used for long periods. At below-freezing temperatures, the batteries may malfunction or cease to operate until the temperature rises again. Be careful not to expose them to severe cold for long periods of time.
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Checking the Batteries

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Pull out the film-advance lever just far enough to uncover the red dot on top of the camera and watch the signal lights in the viewfinder or on top of the finder. If either of the two lights glows with a bright red light, the batteries are in good condition. If not, they need to be replaced.
 

Caution: As the Nikon F2 has not provided with a energy saving circuit - If you are not using the camera, it is advisable not to pull the film advance lever out from the camera body as it will drain the battery power.

LOADING THE CAMERA

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Fold out the O/C key and turn it counterclockwise until the arrow points to the "O" (open) mark and the hinged camera back pops open. Pull up the rewind knob as far as it will go, and drop a film cartridge into the film chamber with the film leader pointing toward the take-up spool.

Naturally, you have to make use of this O/C key to remove the film after completion of the film shooting session.

The Nikon F2 is not equipped with a Auto Film Loading mechanism as with most of today's modern SLR and every process would require you to setup manually prior to shooting. The film rewind fork is one critical feature to speed up film loading, pull it up to enable easier film loading and after inserting the film roll, push the fork down to "lock" the film roll.

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Now, push the rewind knob down to hold the cartridge in place and insert the end of the film leader into any one of the slots in the take-up spool. Stroke the film-advance lever slowly to make sure that the film perforations mesh with the sprockets and that the edges of the film run parallel to the film guide rails.

Close the camera back and lock it by turning the O/C key clockwise until the arrow points to "C" (close). Fold out the rewind crank and turn it gently in the direction of the arrow until you feel a slight resistance. This will take up any slack in the film cartridge.

Advance the film and make two blank exposures to dispose of the first few inches of film which have been exposed during loading. When you do this, watch the rewind knob to make sure it rotates in the direction opposite the arrow while the film is being advanced. This will indicate that the film has been loaded correctly and is being advanced.

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The frame counter in the window in front of the film-advance lever should now be at "O". Advance the film one more frame and you are ready to take the first picture.

The O/C key can be unscrewed and removed for mounting the Motor Drive MD-1/2. However, normally it should not be unscrewed, especially when the camera is loaded with film as this may expose the film.

Caution: Do not load the camera in bright sunlight. If no other shade is available, shade the camera from the sun with your body while loading.

Note: The camera back can be removed from the body by depressing the locking catch on the hinge. Removal of the camera back is necessary when the camera is used with the 250 Magazine Back MF-1, which wraps around the body in place of the back.

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ADDITIONAL SUPPLEMENT: In a manual film advance SLR camera, there is no sure way to confirm whether the film has been properly loaded and taken up by the film take up spool. It is always advisable to perform a visual check at the initial first few frames to see if the film is correctly loaded by observing the film rewind knob turns the opposite direction while you are winding the film forward with the film advance lever - a popular way by seasoned SLR users to prevent and rectify any possible mistakes made duringt he process of film loading.

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The Eyes of Nikon:-
Nippon Kogaku KK Rangefinder RF-Nikkor lenses:- Main Index Page
Nikon Auto Focus Nikkor lenses:- Main Index Page
Nikon Manual Focus Nikkor lenses- Main Index Page

Fisheye-Nikkor Lenses - Circular | Full Frame | Ultrawides Lenses - 13mm15mm18mm20mm | Wideangle Lenses - 24mm28mm35mm |
Standard
Lenses -
45mm 50mm 58mm | Telephoto Lenses - 85mm105mm135mm180mm & 200mm |
Super-Telephoto
Lenses - 300mm 400mm 500mm 600mm 800mm 1200mm |
Special Application lenses:
Micro-Nikkor Lenses - 50mm~55mm -60mm 85mm -105mm 200mm Micro-Zoom 70-180mm
Perspective Control (PC) - 28mm 35mm PC-Micro 85mm
Dedicated Lenses for Nikon F3AF: AF 80mm f/2.8 | AF 200mm f/3.5 EDIF
Depth of Field Control (DC): 105mm 135mm
Medical Nikkor: 120mm 200mm
Reflex-Nikkor Lenses - 500mm 1000mm 2000mm
Others: Noct Nikkor | OP-Nikkor | UV Nikkor 55mm 105mm | Focusing Units | Bellows-Nikkor 105mm 135mm
Nikon Series E Lenses: 28mm35mm50mm100mm135mm | E-Series Zoom lenses: 36~72mm75~150mm70~210mm
MF Zoom-Nikkor Lenses: 25~50mm | 28~45mm | 28~50mm | 28~85mm | 35~70mm | 36~72mm E | 35~85mm | 35~105mm | 35~135mm |
35~200mm | 43~86mm | 50~135mm | 50~300mm | 70~210mm E | 75~150mm E | 80~200mm | 85~250mm |
100~300mm | 180~600mm | 200~400mm | 200~600mm | 360~1200mm | 1200~1700mm

Tele-Converters: TC-1 | TC-2 | TC-200 | TC-201 | TC-300 | TC-301 | TC-14 | TC-14A | TC-14B | TC-14C | TC-14E | TC-16 | TC-16A | TC-20E

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Recommended links to understand more technical details related to the Nikkor F-mount and production Serial Number:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-153.html by: my friend, Rick Oleson
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/fmount.htm by: Hansen, Lars Holst
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html

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Copyright © 2000. leofoo ®. MIR Web Development Team.

In memory of my friend Com. Augusto Staut, Brazil, 1971-2000.

Credit: Chuck Hester, US for his patience, encouragement and help to setup the various content in this site; Robert Johnson for some of his original images on the F2H-MD appeared in this site; my ex-staff, KiaSu for his superb 3-D logo appeared in this Nikon F2 site; Marc Vorgers from Holland who generously provide me with some of his images of F2AS; MCLau®, who has so much time with me to re-edit the content in this site and not to mention buying a Nikon Coolpix 990 just for this site. Keat Photo, Kuala Lumpur for providing their Nikon F2A to take some images for this site; again, Mr Edward Ngoh the great camera collector who provides us his collection of F2AS with MD-2; hawkeye.photographic.com for their images on the Speed Magny film backs; Sean Cranor for his image on Nikon F2 25th Anniversary Model; Ted Wengelaar®, Holland for his continuous flow of input on some of the early Nikon bodies; CYLeow ® , photo editor of the Star newspaper, Malaysia for some of his images used in this site. Ms Rissa Chan, Sales manager from Shriro Malaysia who has helped to provide some of the very useful input. HiuraShinsaku®, Nikomat ML, Japan for some of his images on various F2 models; my staff, Wati, Maisa, Mai and my nephew, EEWyn®, who volunteered and helping me did so many of the film scanning works. Contributing photographers or resellers: Jen Siow, Foo KokKin, Arthur Teng, Mark Fallander, John Ishii, Ed Hassel, YoonKi Kim, Jean-Louis, M.Dugentas (Dell Corner.com.), Mr "Arsenall" and a few images mailed in from surfers with no appropriate reference to their origin. Dedicated to KU Yeo, just to express our mutual regrets over the outcome of a recent corporate event. Made with a PowerMac, broadcast with a Redhat Linux powered server.

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