Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon F2s Photomic w/DP2 prism
Instruction Manual - Part IIIa

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Mirror Lock-Up Lever



The reflex mirror must be locked in the up positon when using certain Fisheye-Nikkor such as 6mm f/5.6, 7.5mm f/5.6, 8mm f/8.0 or the OP Fisheye-Nikkor 10mm f/5.6 lenses, since their rear elements protrude into the camera body and interfere with mirror movement. Locking-up is also necessary for shooting with the Nikon Motor Drive MD-1 at its top speed or achive top film advance rate with MD-2. Press in on the lock-up lever and turn it downward until the white dot is opposite the white line. The mirror will remain locked in the up position until the lever is returned to its original position.

<<-- Credit: Mr. Robert Johnson. A mirror lockup required for this old Fisheye-Nikkor 8mm f8.0, note the extra long back portion of the lens would dmamage the reflex mirror of the camera if use it with a camera that do not provide a mirror lock up feature.

Multiple Exposures

Intentional multiple exposures can be made with the Nikon F2-S Photomic as follows: after making the first exposure, depress the rewind button on the baseplate and stroke the film-advance lever. This winds the shutter and cocks the mirror for the second exposure without advancing the film. Repeat the procedure as many times as you wish. Exposure may be made at different shutter speeds. The frame counter remains unchanged during this operation.

When the above procedure is followed, the film may move slightly when the film-advance lever is wound. To avoid this, depress the rewind button and hold it down while you stroke the lever and make the exposure. Repeat this procedure as many times as desired.

After the last exposure, stroke the film-advance lever once more. This time do not hold the rewind button down. The rewind button will pop out to indicate the film-advance mechanism has been re-engaged. Then cover the lens with a lens cap and press the shutter release button to open the shutter. Now, advance the film to the next frame.


In infrared photography, the plane of sharpest focus is slightly further distant than the one produced by visible light and seen by the naked eye through the viewfinder To compensate for the shift in focus plane, Nikkor lenses provides a red dot or line on the lens barrel near the color-codec depth-of-field scale. After focusing the image sharpl through the viewfinder, turn the focusing ring to the left until the prefocused distance is aligned with the red dot. For example, in the picture at left, the 50 mm f/1.4 lens has been focused at infinity (i).

The focusing ring is turned slightly to the left so that the infinity mark is opposite the red dot. When lenses having a focal length of 50 mm or less are stopped down to f/8.0 or smaller, no adjustment is necessary: at such small apertures these lenses have enough depth of field to compensate for the shift in focus.


To remove the lens from the camera, press the lens release button. Grasp the lens by the white milled ring and twist it to the right as far as it will go. The lens will come loose and can be lifted. To mount a lens, position it in the camera's bayonet mount so that the indicator dots on the lens and the camera are aligned. Twist the lens counterclockwise until it clicks into place. Always shade the camera from the sun with your body when changing lenses.

In order to measure light at full aperture with lenses of different maximum apertures, the meter must be adjusted for the maximum aperture of the lens in use. This is done each time a lens is mounted as follows:

achangelens1.jpg changelens2.jpg
Mount the lens as shown previously. Turn the aperture ring all the way to the minimum aperture setting (largest f/number), then all the way in the opposite direction. This step automatically fits the coupling pin of the Photomic finder into the coupling prong on the lens and adjusts the meter to the maximum aperture of the lens.

Maximum Aperture Indicator

Maximum Aperture Scale

The adjustment can be confirmed by looking at the maximum aperture indicator in the window located at the front right side of the finder. The scale has a range from f/1.2 to f/5.6. For example, if the 24 mm f/2.8 lens is mounted on the camera, the number 2.8 should appear in the window.

Reminder: The Nikon F2S is a Non-AI camera body and you would need to use with an Nikkor lens that has a meter coupling shoe on the aperture ring to enable proper metering.

Changing the Viewfinder

Six interchangeable viewfinders are available for the Nikon F2-S Photomic: F2S Photomic, F2 Photomic, EyeLevel, Action, Waist-Level and 6X Focusing Finders. To remove the F2S Photomic Finder, depress the base of the finderrelease lever and turn the lever downward, then press the finder-release button on the back of the camera. The finder snaps loose and can be lifted out .

To attach a viewfinder other than a Photomic finder, set it in position and press down gently until it clicks into place. To remove, press the finder-release button. The finder comes loose and can be lifted out.

To reattach the Photomic F2S Finder to the camera mounted with a lens, first set the lens-aperture diaphragm at f/5.6 or larger, center the meter coupling pin and loosely place the finder in positon. Then press the finder down gently until it clicks into place and the two clamps settle in position.

findechange2.jpg findechange3.jpg
With the Photomic finder in place, twist the shutterspeed selector left and right until it engages the shutter-speed dial on the camera and the two rotate together.

Mounting the finder on the camera body without a lens is simple. Just press the finder down gently until it clicks into place and the two clamps settle into place.

Changing Focusing Screens

Nineteen different focusing screens are available for the Nikon F2S Photomic to match exactly any focal-length lens or picture-taking situation. The Type A Focusing Screen comes with the camera as standard equipment and any of the screens may be used with any of the finders available for the camera.

To change the focusing screen, first remove the finder as described earlier. Then turn the camera body upside down and press the finder-release button a second time. The screen will drop into your hand.

To attach a screen, place it in position with the flat side facing down and the Nikon mark pointing towards the front of the camera. Press the finder-release button and the screen will drop into place.

Caution: When changing a focusing screen, be careful not to touch the surfaces with the fingers as this will result in greasy marks. When removing the screen, it is advisable to place a clean, dry cloth over the palm of the hand for the screen to drop onto.

Changing the Focusing Screens

Interchangeable Focusing Screens (Locates in a
Separate Section to reduce download time)
Focusing Screen Selector Chart

Caution: The rear surface of the screen is made of acryl resin. Special care should be taken to protect it from scratching or excessive pressure.

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Fisheye-Nikkor Lenses - Circular | Full Frame | Ultrawides Lenses - 13mm15mm18mm20mm | Wideangle Lenses - 24mm28mm35mm |
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Dedicated Lenses for Nikon F3AF: AF 80mm f/2.8 | AF 200mm f/3.5 EDIF
Depth of Field Control (DC): 105mm 135mm
Medical Nikkor: 120mm 200mm
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Others: Noct Nikkor | OP-Nikkor | UV Nikkor 55mm 105mm | Focusing Units | Bellows-Nikkor 105mm 135mm
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100~300mm | 180~600mm | 200~400mm | 200~600mm | 360~1200mm | 1200~1700mm

Tele-Converters: TC-1 | TC-2 | TC-200 | TC-201 | TC-300 | TC-301 | TC-14 | TC-14A | TC-14B | TC-14C | TC-14E | TC-16 | TC-16A | TC-20E


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Recommended links to understand more technical details related to the Nikkor F-mount and production Serial Number: by: my friend, Rick Oleson by: Hansen, Lars Holst

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Copyright © 2000. leofoo ®. MIR Web Development Team.

In memory of my friend Com. Augusto Staut, Brazil, 1971-2000.

Credit: Chuck Hester, US for his patience, encouragement and help to setup the various content in this site; Robert Johnson for some of his original images on the F2H-MD appeared in this site; my ex-staff, KiaSu for his superb 3-D logo appeared in this Nikon F2 site; Marc Vorgers from Holland who generously provide me with some of his images of F2AS; MCLau®, who has so much time with me to re-edit the content in this site and not to mention buying a Nikon Coolpix 990 just for this site. Keat Photo, Kuala Lumpur for providing their Nikon F2A to take some images for this site; again, Mr Edward Ngoh the great camera collector who provides us his collection of F2AS with MD-2; for their images on the Speed Magny film backs; Sean Cranor for his image on Nikon F2 25th Anniversary Model; Ted Wengelaar®, Holland for his continuous flow of input on some of the early Nikon bodies; CYLeow ® , photo editor of the Star newspaper, Malaysia for some of his images used in this site. Ms Rissa Chan, Sales manager from Shriro Malaysia who has helped to provide some of the very useful input. HiuraShinsaku®, Nikomat ML, Japan for some of his images on various F2 models; my staff, Wati, Maisa, Mai and my nephew, EEWyn®, who volunteered and helping me did so many of the film scanning works. Contributing photographers or resellers: Jen Siow, Foo KokKin, Arthur Teng, Mark Fallander, John Ishii, Ed Hassel, YoonKi Kim, Jean-Louis, M.Dugentas (Dell, Mr "Arsenall" and a few images mailed in from surfers with no appropriate reference to their origin. Dedicated to KU Yeo, just to express our mutual regrets over the outcome of a recent corporate event. Made with a PowerMac, broadcast with a Redhat Linux powered server.

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