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The viewfinder display of Nikon FM series models have gone through three phases of change along with the original Nikon FM, FM2n (or equivalent) and the current Nikon FM3a. Both the previous FMs have adopted almost similar match-LEDs design with slight variation in the shutter speed and the metering display of '+', 'O' & '-' symbols inside the picture frame. |
The changes between the original FM and FM2 is minor. The shutter speed display of the FM2n has been redesigned with a white semicircle and was, according to Nikon, an improvement so as to make it more contrasty as compared with older FM's white shutter speed scale in the black. Well, I have found little relevant to such claim. The original FM's design actually carries an intention for eyeglass wearers easier to see the +- symbols moved slightly inward inside the finder. However, FM2n's has rearranged it with probable space saving intention and the tri-LEDs being moved further outward. It also provides an unobstructed view for easier focusing and picture composition. Now, what and how does the FM3a looks like in its finder ?
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Viewfinder frame Coverage: Approx. 93% (objective screen) |
In order to maintain compactness of body size, competitiveness in costing and retain system integrity with existing Nikon accessories, the FM3a is not presented with the much desired 100% viewfinder coverage. Anyway, if most people are using commercial labs to process their works and/or using slides with mount, it is approx. similar in reproduction from what you will be seeing through the finder on final prints or mounted slides. I have no complaints using it singularly. However, if you are working with another Nikon professional class SLR body such as the Nikon F3, F4 etc. which provides 100% finder coverage, it needs orientation because somehow it will misled you to think that it needs to step back a foot to compose the same picture. Anyway, it is no big deal, between choice of retaining compactness and 100% view field, I would rather see the FM3a maintains as it is.
Metering display system employs in FM3a is a departure of traditional match-diode-metering design synonymous with mechanical FM bodies and its actually is leaning more towards design of FE/FE2's analog needle-and-moving-index system. Everyone has their personal preferences. Some might argue that FM3a should have a 'hybrid' display design. Well, I don't think FM3a should be designed with dual metering displays whenever exposure mode(s) changes.
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Firstly, the time proven galvanometer-controlled match needle system used in the FE/FE2 was still much favored by many Nikon users with its clear and easy to understand display; secondly, dual displays might add complication to the camera design and affecting reliability to the mechanism and further, neither it is in the interest of Nikon commercially to add up to its product cost; lastly, even if a match-diode is retained when shifted to manual exposure mode, it is still confined and restricted to half stop sensitivity to changes of brightness. In which case, the system used in the FE is more precise as it will display steplessly with the sensitive metering needle fluctuates accordingly to any slight changes of brightness levels to any given measured scenes. |
In operation, when you bring the camera to eye level, you may find the FM3a somehow different from any of the previous FM models. Not just the colorful match needle system that is visually striking, overall, the viewfinder is relatively brighter, more contrasty and crystal clear - it provides a new level of focusing ease and precision not found on previous model(s). Probably, it is much due to the new improved screen type(s) used in the new camera (three new focusing screens were being introduced along with FM3a). I have made a direct comparison between a Nikon FM2n with the FM3a mounted with a same MF 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor lens, I felt the FM3a is somehow brighter and has made manual focusing such a pleasant experience for picture composing.
Relative: Nikon Focusing Screens for Nikon F, Nikon F3, Nikon F4, Nikon F5 & Screens for various MF-Nikon Mid-compact Bodies.
Overall, I felt the adopted match needle system is a good solution in a hybrid camera. It carries an advantage as visually it should aid any photographer with a clearer understanding of the variation needs to compensate for demanding exposure in a more precise manner. However, the only complaint I have is, the display menu is transparent and the background is zipping through and it is quite difficult to see the black metered needle under certain circumstances such as wheb the background is dark, clustered with many things or when working the camera in dim light condition. I would rather see it was being designed with the entire menu with black shutter speed scales on white to enable easy viewing of the moving meter needle. Naturally, again everyone has his own personal preference, the match needle system employs might please some but others might dislike it. Next, the exposure-compensation and flash ready symbols at the top of the finder keeps flashing alternately when there is no film roll installed inside the camera body. I don't understand why would Nikon design it that way, as it is quite irritating to me (I would also expect many of us might toy around and often like to do blank film roll practicing in order to get familiarization of camera control). After all, there is a film confirmation window at the rear to provide visual check. Well, I would rather see it is being used as low shutter speed (below 1/30 sec) warning signal or just used it as an exposure compensation warning reminder. Lastly, LEDs sucks more power than LCD and I would like the tiny button cell(s) conserves to power the camera metering longer. Some strange decision was made here ..., I think.
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Comparison between Nikon FM3a and FE2's viewfinder display system. Most prominent change is the shifting of the exposure compensation symbol to the top, along side by side with the flash ready light signal and aperture display for quick, easy visual reference. |
When you turn the 14 steps shutter-speed dial far left past the 1/4000 sec setting will lock to a green "A" setting which signifies you are operating in FM3a's AUTO exposure setting. The blue shutter speed bar in the finder which is used in manual exposure control will flip up and rest at the top red zone above the 4000 mark on the vertical menu. The black needle is actually the meter indicator and it is sensitive. It fluctuates up or downwards in response to changes of light according to the light sensor(s) measured light levels across the finder according to aperture and film speed you have set. The top and bottom red zone is the over and underexposure zone, if the meter needle, at any one time goes up or down to the red zone, it means the light level of the measured brightness of the scene is too high or low, exceeding the camera's EV range to provide a proper exposure.
In auto mode, the EV range is from EV1 to EV20 at ISO 100 (with a 50-mm f/1.4 lens). In such case, you should (for over exposure) - select an alternate smaller aperture on the lens section, use a faster shutter speed setting, changing to a slower film type or making use of neutral density filter if the preselected aperture is still desirable to enable the light level falls within the camera's metering range. As for underexposure, you can either open a bigger aperture on the lens, select a slower shutter speed, or use a faster film. The bulb ('B') setting is mechanical and and is often used for long time exposure (probably designed to conserve battery power during such operating state), thus, once you have set the shutter speed scale to bulb mode, the black meter needle will automatically rest at the lower red zone position. One of the strength of the FM3a new display system as compared to previous FM series's tri-LEDs is - you will be able to accertain the actual level of exposure needs to be adjust. FM and FM2(n) has only half stop when both +', 'O' or '-' , 'O' lights up positively (or guessing whether if it is 1/3 stop when alternate '+' or '-' light up on and off along with the center 'O' lights up continuously). The black meter needle used in the FM3a is moving steplessly and you will be sure of the level of exposure needed to be fine-tuned. In such case, you can use the lens diaphragm on the lens, exposure compensation (if you have all the time in the world to do that) or even altering the ASA/ISO setting in manual setting to achieve such objective. Well, as mentioned on earlier pages, the more convenient way is actually making use of the AE-L which is less tedious to operate while more assuring to achieve positive result. When you activate the AE-L, the meter needle will stay motionless in the menu as the exposure will be locked.
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When operates in full manual mode, the viewfinder display at the vertical menu at the left hand side will react accordingly to the change of exposure mode. The change is so minor that it does not confuse the user, as it involves only an additional blue pointer on the same menu presents in auto mode. The blue meter bar which rest at the top red zone will 'come alive' as soon as you turn the shutter speed setting away from the "A" auto setting (simply depress the center metal button at the shutter speed ring will unlock the mechanism). In this case, FM3a operates exactly like the FM2(n) except when you peep through the eyepiece, you will find the familiar tri-LEDs diodes of previous models is now replaced by a colorful match-needle exposure guide at the left hand side. |
During manual-exposure
mode operation, you can select any shutter speed that best suit your
picture taking needs, and turn the aperture ring of the lens in order match the translucent
blue bar aligned with the moving black meter needle (the meter needle is the camera's
metering circuit suggested reading).
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<<<< --- Blue bar under the black meter needle will caused overexposure |
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<<<< --- With the set shutter speed/aperture on top of the metered needle will caused underexposure |
I
will explain one more time just in case you are confused: The blue bar is actually
relative to changes made on either shutter speed(s) (on the camera) and/or the aperture(s)
set on the lens section. You can make use of both (shutter speed or the aperture)
to shift the blue pointer in line with the meter needle in order to achieve a camera
suggested exposure. As with the older system of simple tri-LEDs used in all previous
FM bodies, sometimes you may not be able to manage both needle and bar match precisely
to reach an theoretically optimum exposure suggested by the camera's metering circuit.
But unlike automatic body(ies) which usually are quartz timed, the shutter speed
of the FM3a is actually mechanical timed at one full stop increment, and thus, you
cannot make fine exposure adjustment via shutter speed setting(s). However, you can,
on the other hand fine-tuned exposure within a stop by using the aperture on your
lens instead because Nikkor lenses' aperture ring is click-stopped, as the lens diaphragms
within the lens are continuously variable and thus, you can make use of the aperture
of the lens to fine-tune exposure but not via the shutter speed setting on the camera.
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At the top of the finder, the center section has an aperture window. It shown the aperture in use on the lens. There is a tiny optical window under the pentaprism at the front of the FM3a. It ''reads' the aperture direct readout scales marked on any Nikkor lens and relays the selected aperture value on the lens to the viewfinder. (see illustration) |
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Standard
production Nikon FM Series models:-
Nikon FM | Nikon FM2 | Nikon FM2n | Nikon FM10 | Nikon FM3a |
Known
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Nikon
FM Gold
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FM2/T
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FM2N Tropical Set
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FM2/T Limited Edition
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FM2N LAPITA
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Nion
FM2n Millennium 2000
Shared Resources: MD-11 | MD-12 | Focusing Screens | Titanium Shutter | older dedicated Flash Units for FM series -SB-16 | SB-15 | SB-10 or other Options | Databack | Nikkor lens mount (related info)
Others:- Nikon AF-TTL Speedlights | SB-20 (1986) | SB-22 (1987) | SB-23 | SB-24 (1988) | SB-25 (1991/2) | SB-26 (1994) | SB-27(1997) | SB-28 (1997) | Nikon SB-29(s) (2000) | Nikon SB-30 (2003) | Nikon SB-600 (2004) | Nikon SB-800 (2003) Nikon AF-TTL Speedlight DX-Series: Nikon SB-28DX (1999) | SB-50DX (2001) | SB-80DX (2002) (updated)
Nikon
BC-flash Series |
Original
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SB-2
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Instruction
Manual: Nikon FM (HTML | PDF) | Nikon FM-10 (HTML) | Nikon FM2n's
User's Manual
available only in HTML format (6
parts) | Nikon FM3A (HTML)
Specifications: Nikon FM, FM-10, FM2, FM2n and FM3A
Main Reference Map: (HTML) Nikon FM, FM2, FM-10, FM2n (Applicable
to FM2T, FM2 "Year of the Dog"; Millennium 2000") and FM3A
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Nikon F | Nikon F2 | Nikon F3 | Nikon F4 | Nikon F5 | Nikon F6 | Nikkormat / Nikomat | Nikon FM | Nikon FE/ FA | Nikon EM/FG/FG20 | Nikon Digital SLRs | Nikon - Other models |
Nikon Auto Focus Nikkor lenses:- Main
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Nikon Manual Focus Nikkor lenses:- Fisheye-Nikkor Lenses - Circular | Full Frame |
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Special
Application lenses: Micro-Nikkor Lenses - 50mm~55mm -60mm 85mm -105mm 200mm Micro-Zoom 70-180mm Perspective Control (PC) - 28mm 35mm PC-Micro 85mm Dedicated Lenses for Nikon F3AF: AF 80mm f/2.8 | AF 200mm f/3.5 EDIF Depth of Field Control (DC): 105mm 135mm Medical Nikkor: 120mm 200mm Reflex-Nikkor Lenses - 500mm 1000mm 2000mm Others: Noct Nikkor | OP-Nikkor | UV Nikkor 55mm 105mm | Focusing Units | Bellows-Nikkor 105mm 135mm Nikon Series E Lenses: 28mm35mm50mm100mm135mm | E-Series Zoom lenses: 36~72mm75~150mm70~210mm |
MF Zoom-Nikkor Lenses: 25~50mm | 28~45mm | 28~50mm | 28~85mm | 35~70mm | 36~72mm E | 35~85mm | 35~105mm | 35~135mm | 35~200mm | 43~86mm | 50~135mm | 50~300mm | 70~210mm E | 75~150mm E | 80~200mm | 85~250mm | 100~300mm | 180~600mm | 200~400mm | 200~600mm | 360~1200mm | 1200~1700mm
Tele-Converters: TC-1 | TC-2 | TC-200 | TC-201 | TC-300 | TC-301 | TC-14 | TC-14A | TC-14B | TC-14C | TC-14E | TC-16 | TC-16A | TC-20E
Recommended links to understand more technical details
related to the Nikkor F-mount and production Serial Number:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-153.html by: my
friend, Rick Oleson
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/fmount.htm by: Hansen,
Lars Holst
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html
W A R N I N G: The New G-SERIES Nikkor lenses have no aperture ring on the lens, they CANNOT ADJUST APERTURES with any of these manual focus Nikon FE series SLR camera models; please ignore some portion of the content contained herein this site where it relates.
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Credit: To all the good people who has contributed their own experience, resources or those who are kind enough granting us permission to use their images appeared in this site. Mr. MCLau®, who has helped to rewrite some of the content appeared this site. Chuck Hester® who has been helping me all along with the development of all these Nikon websites;LarsHolst Hansen, 'Hawkeye' who shares the same passion I have; Ms Rissa, Sales manager from Nikon Corporation Malaysia for granting permission to use some of the official content; TedWengelaar,Holland who has helped to provide many useful input relating to older Nikkor lenses; Some of the references on production serial numbers used in this site were extracted from Roland Vink's website; HiuraShinsaku from Nikomat Club Japan. t is also a site to remember a long lost friend on the Net. Note:certain content and images appeared in this site were either scanned from official marketing leaflets, brochures, sales manuals or publications published by Nikon over the years and/or contribution from surfers who claimed originality of their work for educational purposes. The creator of the site will not be responsible for may discrepancies arise from such dispute except rectifying them after verification."Nikon", "Nikkormat", "Nippon Kokagu KK" & "Nikkor" are registered tradename of Nikon Corporation Inc., Japan. Site made with an Apple IMac.