The contents here may have some key words here and there in pure photographic term, please refer to our huge Glossary section for cross references.

We have a great deal of photographers locally dedicated to nature and scenic. I have been to a number of photo exhibitions held locally and seeing the standard are improving tremendously. Local daily like The New Straits Times has weekly supplement focusing on nature, Mr. Eric Peris, their editor in-charge, has in fact over the years given a lot of entry advice on related topics. He is retiring from the paper now and still allocating some of his time to write articles under sponsorship of Kodak (I hope I'm not wrong). I do hope I can ask him to contribute some materials for us in the future.

When taking scenic pictures, try including objects in the foreground. Elements in the foreground add a sense of distance, depth and dimension.

You can combine with earlier topics to create stunning scenic photographs. Good use of objects in the foreground can lead viewer's attention to the principal subject of interest.

Use something (car window, rotten woods etc.) to frame your composition can be considered as foreground object. Some photographers using medium range telephoto lenses (80mm-180mm) to isolate the subject, but if working with wide angles, most problems come from the inclusion of too much "sky" in the composition ( remember, exposure latitude of both photographic film and paper cannot handle the same range of contrast as our eyes) and usually when exposure is taken based on the subject, the sky will be washed out in white.

By including some objects in the foreground, arrange in such a way to lead it back to the original target. This work better with a fixed lens P&S (where 28mm-35mm can give you more depth of field), frankly speaking, apart from this purpose, it also can help you to tilt your camera's angle lower by not including too much sky (believe it or not - the focus or exposure indicator in the viewfinder causes this, naturally).

If the exposure reading differs greatly between the foreground and the subject, your on-camera flash might come in handy - by giving a light burst on the foreground to brighten up the foreground elements. The possible problem when applying this technique is depth of field.

A lot of photographers, I noticed, has started putting ultra-wide angle (15mm-21mm) lenses to good use, when combining the characteristics of the wide-angle with elements like shadows (try this, under the strong midday sun), select a colorful subject, simplified the background and add some objects in front to lead viewer to the final target.

If it sounds too technical, please mail me.

Off center, about to finish...

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