Nikon FA - Archived Message Board/Guestbook 001-050

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon FA - Archived 001-050 Message Board/Guestbook

Nikon FA w/50mm f/1.8.jpg

From david miller (Tue Apr 10 06:25:28 2001 ):
I have a Nikon FA with a serious problem. A few years ago I destroyed the shutter. Since tghen I've sent the camera to 3 repair facilities and was informed that repair is imposible and Nikon no longer makes the the part. Any ideas would be greatly accepted. Even better, does anyone know of a reputable repair facilty in the north east? Thanks
From Lars (Fri Apr 6 20:32:45 2001 ):
Hi Jensen - the FA top cover is copperized plastic. See more @ http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NikonMF/message/2740 Best regards, Lars.
From Jensen (Thu Apr 5 11:33:47 2001 ):
Does anyone of you know what material is that at the pentaprism ? Obviously it is not metal as compared with the FM that I have - is that plastic ? Does the camera is also made of plastic ? The site said it is made of metal.
From Lars (Sun Apr 1 18:18:54 2001 ):
Alan - FA was not given an AE lock. Perhaps Nikon though the AMP was so good that it would not be needed! If one however decides to use centre weighted metering the option would have come in handy.
From Albert (Thu Mar 29 19:23:05 2001 ):
I'm interested in photography and planning to purchase a nikon FA from someone. Can anybody give me any advise on checking whether the camera works well or not? I will very appreciate it. thank you.
From Alan Clayton (Thu Mar 29 06:59:31 2001 ):
Oops - that last message should have read "so far, I haven't found a separate button OR HIDDEN feature on a visible button" (fingers and brain became disconnected!)
From Bob (Sun Jan 3 09:09:30 1999 ):
I have just discovered this site, fabulous! As an avid NIKON collector and user (FA+F5) it is nice to find info that you don't find in books.
From Ashkenazi, Ronen (Thu Dec 31 21:57:36 1998 ):
FA with MD-12 combination: Firing rate of the MD-12 unstable. I have found what was the problem with my FA/MD12 combination, and wanted to update you. Maybe you can put the information on your WEB server so that it will serve others. It seems that the motor drive contact on the FA are pushed further into the body then on an FM2. This cause a loose contact between the FA motor drive terminals and the MD12. I found a simple solution to the problem which seems to work. What I did is apply some Wonder Solder to the contacts on the FA. I used a simple solder and a very small amount of wonder solder to create a cap of about 1mm on every one of the contacts in the FA motor drive terminal... And voila, problem solved. I am not sure whether this problem is specific to my FA or is a common problem with some of the FA's. Anyway it seems to work fine. I know that the wonder solder may be more prone to corrosion but I hope that regularly cleaning the contacts on the FA will keep everything working fine.
From Allen (Wed Dec 9 21:51:35 1998 ):
Kudos to the team who came up with the FA site! There's just so much info there! Some questions though a) Is there a "safe" serial number guide to the FA? b) accepts manual cable release? In bulb setting, consume batteries? c) Can the FA handle moisture, shocks etc? d) What kind of advantages does the semi-auto FA give compared ot the F3? Yes, how's spare parts (in Malaysia) TIA!! Allen
From Neil Rote (Wed Dec 9 04:37:49 1998 ):
I've long been an FA user, owning two FA bodies in addition to several autofocus bodies. I constantly fing myself favouring my FA/MD15 combination, having the choice between motordrive (albeit noisy) or, by cocking the advance lever, normal quiet manual operation. Very handy in nature/portrait type situations. I also find the bodies handle well, feeling solid and with everything in just the right place, and the interchangeable focusing screens are a big plus. However, I am worried by reports from my camera store that parts for the FA are becoming quite scarce. It has been said that circuit boards are no longer available except by butchering other FAs. He has advised I sell the FAs now and invest in the F90x. Can anyone advise whether this is the case or not? Even if it is I am tempted to continue to use my very reliable FAs until they die a natural death, but would like to know for sure.
From Ronen Ashkenazi (Mon Dec 7 20:45:32 1998 ):
I had recently purchased a used MD12 motor drive for use with my Nikon FA. I tested the MD12 before buying it on a FM2 and it worked flawlessly. However I encountered a problem when I connected it to my FA. When working with the motor drive after several shots the MD12 stops working. After disconnecting the drive from the camera I noticed that the camera will not fire the shutter. I have to switch the FA to one of the manual modes (M250 or B), fire the shutter and then return to the electronic shutter speeds and everything works fine again. Also when I install the MD12 to the FA and return the film advance lever to its lock position to advance the film and sync between the MD12 and FA the camera fires two or three shots continuously instead of just advancing the film one frame. Then when I press the shutter release on the MD12 I hear the mirror go up and then everything is stuck. The red light at the back of the MD12 does not light. I have tried this using the M250 mechanical shutter speed on the FA without success. I have tried replacing the FA and MD12 batteries without success. I am in desperate need for help..... I do not have another camera to test the MD12 on. Does anyone have suggestions to fix this problem? If you suspect something and need more information let me know. As I said I am desperate. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ronen Ashkenazi Ronen.Ashkenazi@KLA-Tencor.com Work: +972-6-6449505 Home: +972-6-6230971
From John Irey (Sun Dec 6 03:39:22 1998 ):
Thank you for a great FA page! I was able to find all the needed info on my new (used) FA. It would be a great idea to start a trade page for systems and accessories. Thank you again. John
From Pedro Faisca (Thu Dec 3 00:22:39 1998 ):
Shoting in aperture priority, I realise that my FA can use shutter speeds of several seconds. I was shoting a low-light scene, the viewfinder was giving me 'Lo' but I took the photo anyway. The shutter was open about 8 seconds. I compared the time with the readings of an exposure meter, and they were the same. Can someone tell me what's the limit in seconds that the shutter of my FA can handle?
From Gerben Boon (Mon Nov 30 23:49:36 1998 ):
Hi, As owner of a chrome FA, I am very happy to see this beautifull FA page.. and i have to spent some time on reading all the information, which is realy a lot and of big value to me! If anyone can give me a picture of a DB-2, i would be happy.. because i have never seen one up till now. Furthermore i am looking for a handgrip and a motordrivecontacts protection cap of the FA, since my FA was used with a motordriv eby the previous owner.. and he lost these things. Gerben The Netherlands.
From Leonard P S Foo (Sun Nov 29 12:36:02 1998 ):
On behalf of those who have contributed content and resources to the successful construction of this site, a BIG thank you to all of you. Especially to "JB", who has been so kind and patience with the slow development of this site - but as I promised, I don't do half baked cakes. For issues not covered, you are encouraged to use the convenience of this Message Board creatively. Enjoy!
From Roger (Fri Jan 29 09:44:23 1999 ):
I currently own a Nikon FE with many accessories. I am considering a backup body - the FE2 or FA. As far as I can tell, the FA is essentially an FE2 but with multi zone metering capability. As Nikon's first stab at this technology, how well did they do? The technology is, afterall, about 15 years old! Is it at all comparable to their newer auto focus cameras? Also, do most FA users leave the camera on multi zone or center weighted? Thanks for your responses!
From CESCATO Studio (Thu Jan 28 11:06:54 1999 ):
I have used the Nikon FA since 1986. I have 2 of them both with motor drives on them. I think they are the greatest 35mm cameras without autofocus. I have photographed from formula one to portrature with them. If you want to talk email me!
From Alan (Wed Jan 27 03:42:02 1999 ):
Having been out of my hobby of photography for some years, I am now getting back into it. I dearly love my Nikon FA and am shocked to hear that it is now considered a classic. Having upgraded my collection of lenses via aftermarket brands, I am now looking toward motor drives. I am astounded by the price of used MD-15's. Like lenses, do aftermarket motor drives exist?
From ryan graham (Wed Jan 20 20:14:02 1999 ):
To Don Walsh . The reason for me switching to the f4s was because it would have benefited me to go with an autofocus body which would have had all the advantages with the autofocus lenses . I also found that the spot meter and spot focus very handy in terms of flash photography . I think that you have misunderstood .
From Ubirajara (Sun Jan 17 05:45:53 1999 ):
Congratulations for this fabulous site! I'm really hooked on Nikons and recently I've bought here in Brazil a mint 2nd hand FA black but, unfortunately, without the manual. Just in time to get mad out of informations, I found this site and... gee! What a great job! Thanks a lot folks!
From Don Walsh (Sat Jan 16 16:09:36 1999 ):
Re: Ryan in South Africa, who says he was forced to go with F4s because of unavailability of fast (f1.8-2.8) manual focus lenses in his country. I'm confused. As far as I am aware, all of the AF Nikkor and 3rd party AF lenses for Nikkor mount are AIS in nature and would work just fine on the FA body in all modes = dual mode program, shutter priority, aperture priority, manual. Lots of the AF Nikkors optically and physically resemble the Series E lenses which were earliest AIS lenses (originally introduced for the EM as compact lenses.) So were you forced to go with F4S just because, having AF lenses, you didn't want to waste the AF capability by using them on the FA? I'm not trying to be argumentative, I just want to know if I am missing something here, or if I misunderstood Ryan's post? BTW AI-converted and AI lenses work fine on FA except for high speed program (which only applies to 135mm and longer focal lengths anyway) with a few special exceptions and limitations for specific older models. But in all, FA has approximately same backwards and forward compatibility with Nikkors as the F4s/F4e/F4 and both have more backwards compatibility than does the F5.
From Georg Jakopic (Fri Jan 15 20:13:17 1999 ):
Last year, I bought a FA body and a used MD-12 (both of them in mint condition) because I also own a FE and I wanted to use the motor-drive on both of them. Until now, I do not experience the slightest problem with the FA/MD-12 combination. Having read the mail about the contact problems I've measured the distance between the bottom plate and the motor contacts on both the FA and the FE and it seems to be just the same (on my bodies at least).
From Don Walsh (Fri Jan 15 17:06:11 1999 ):
To Mr Neil Rote: stop, go back it's a trap. Every (new camera) dealer will always try to convince you your superb but discontinued body like FA is a money pit and dinosaur, and life will only be liveable if you buy a current model (in this case F90x). I would advise instead to invest in some cosmetically worn but electronically perfect spare FA bodies to cannibalize when eventually needed; this will cost you a LOT less than the F90x when you consider the exorbidant cost of its accessories and the stripped down nature of the body which conceals its true practical cost. Bear in mind that in a few years the same dealer would be making the same argument to you about your 'fossil' F90x in favor of some new Nikon wonderbox he is trying to sell you. Your instincts are sound; go with them! Also, I see few FA's turn up (on the used market worldwide) in inoperable condition due to pcb failure, just like the F3 and unlike the EM, and to a lesser extent FG, and FG-20.
From Don Walsh (Fri Jan 15 16:52:46 1999 ):
To the gentleman who was having problems with MD-12/FA combination, I am wondering why didn't you just buy an MD-15 instead? This is the proper drive for FA and is usually a lot cheaper than MD-12 on used market specifically because it is dedicated to FA only. I bought two of them in near mint condition from USA for $100 US each, whereas MD-12s usually run $150-$200 used. That is because of the popularity of the FM2/FM2n and FE2. Ironically a gray market MD-12 can be had for not a whole lot more than that NEW in box. I dunno if your body/drive combination was a max tolerance condition or not, but I think using the right drive in the first place makes more sense than adding solder to the terminals and risking reducing the resale value of your body.
From Ryan Graham (Thu Jan 14 17:19:28 1999 ):
I found the FA to be the best Nikon body I have ever used .It puts the F3 to shame in terms of priority modes and quick shutter speeds .I found it to be very economical in terms of battery use .Its just a pity that here in South Africa its very hard to find manual focus lenses with apertures of 1.8 or 2.8 .So I have been forced to go with the F4s .Thanks for the great site .Its about time ......
From Dushan (Sat Feb 27 07:45:03 1999 ):
Any one know what I'm doing wrong in attempting to download the FA Camera Manual-HTML|PDF(1.4 MB)?? I cant quite seem to figure it out, all I get it random numbers and letters. I tried to not open it and just view the file, but the same thing happened. Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated...or info on how I can obtain a new FA manual. Thanks, Dushan
From Tim (Mon Feb 22 23:51:55 1999 ):
Is there an FA Guru when it comes to repair? The mechanical window for shutter speed display in the viewfinder sticks. I know shutter speed is visible in the LCD window, but if the mechanical window is an "easy fix", I would like the camera to be 100%. Thanks.
From Tim Hunt (Mon Feb 15 21:19:49 1999 ):
I have just bought an FA cheap but almost mint condition. However, the lightmeter appears not to work and it drains batteries very quickly. Has anybody had a similar problem? If so what is causing the fault? Has anybody ever used Nikon UK for repairs?
From Oscar M. (Mon Feb 15 14:39:31 1999 ):
I recently bought an used, but in excelent condition, FA camera, but I have the same problem that Mr. Kris has: the camera lacks the hand grip. I realy would like to fin one, if anybody knows WHERE I can get one, I would be thankful. On the other hand, my opinion about the FA is that it is a great camera, with the lovely things of a manual cameras (strong and good size body, external speed and iso seetings, etc) and some of the practical things of the technology (multimode exposure, matrix metering, TTL flash, etc.). You know perfectly the picture you are taking. With some advanced functions, you can, at the same time, feel the photography.
From Kris (Sun Feb 14 07:52:00 1999 ):
I just bought a used FA...to replace one stolen recently...love this camera!!! This body is missing the grip on the right front, and I'm looking for a replacement. Anyone want to sell one...or know where I can go to find one?
From Alan (Sat Feb 13 05:15:53 1999 ):
I've recently purchased a used MD-15 motor drive which, unfortunately, did not come with an instruction booklet. Could someone tell be what the "BC" button on the back is for?
From Ivis (Thu Feb 11 01:06:32 1999 ):
Does anyone know how much the Nikon FA is worth? I am thinking about selling mine.
From Nik (Thu Feb 4 23:14:38 1999 ):
Hi, Im just about to take that first step into the wonderful world of Nikon but im abit bemused as to which second hand body to buy; they all seem so good. On top of this i have had various different people some friends, some profesionals, saying different things. My choise is between the FM series, FA series and the FE series. I intend to work in manual alot and i like the thought of a basic camera that does not have too much to go wrong, on the other hand multiple point light metering is obviously of great benefit and its always nice to have the choise. Also an idea of a fair price would be of benefit Please help.
From Terence Tan (Wed Feb 3 00:44:21 1999 ):
Dear Leonard, Yeak and the MIR team, my heartiest congratulations for this beautifully designed site! The FA has been one of my favourite manual Nikon bodies. Anyone who has triggered the shutter will tell you that it has a feel unlike any of the other manual bodies. Feather-light. I suppose Nikon had to discontinue it otherwise no one would buy their then new F-801 :-) Leonard, indeed your scans have turned out beautifully for this site!
From Mike Keenan (Tue Feb 2 23:39:25 1999 ):
I recently bought a used FA in great condition. Afterwards, a pro photographer told me that I should have bought the FE2 because the FA had many problems with its higher tech electronics, and that's why pros avoided it infavor of the FE2. He also said many, many pro users of F3's and F4's carried FE2's as back-ups. Has anyone out there had problems with the electronics on their FA's? Also, I was told that I should have bought a black body, not a "chrome" because Nikon scrimps on the construction of the "chrome" bodies because they are intended solely for the amateur market. Is that true? Is there any functional, qualitative difference between the "chrome" and the black bodies? Please e-mail an answer. I thought I was buying a great camera at a fair price.
From Jayaraman (Tue Apr 20 12:42:24 1999 ):
I have a FA since 1989 and loved it for its many features. I am rather disappointed at Nikon Quality. One of the side mounting screw holding the top cover below the view finder fell off for no apparent reason. Also, i have lost the electronics. All i have is the mechanical shutter 250, B capability. It is due for repair!! within 10 years? I think Nikon discontinued it probably because of poor quality issues. What do you think? Any one else have similar problems?
From Tony Wright (Tue Apr 20 10:13:35 1999 ):
I am considering purchasing an FA w/28-85 zoom and MD-15 drive. Can anyone tell me a reasonable price for this camera and drive. The lens is not a Nikkor, but the equipment is in good shape. A quick response would be appreciated (I don't want to miss out on the buy. Thanks for your help --- and thanks for a great site.
From Howard (Sun Apr 11 07:29:32 1999 ):
This Nikon FA site is Outstanding!!!
From Wu Liang (Sun Apr 4 22:29:24 1999 ):
I want to know what's different between Nikon Ai mount and F mount? Thanks.
From P.L.Jani (Thu Apr 1 13:24:22 1999 ):
Where can I get other accesories for my camera at a bargain price. Accesories like lenses, motor, etc
From Phil Davis (Sun Mar 28 07:59:51 1999 ):
I have recently acquired an FA and so far I am very pleased with it. Iused to have an FE which I used for many years and in many ways the FA takes me back to that time. My question is this - can anyone reccomend a site where the MD15 manual could be downloaded or where I could obtain said manual cheaply? Thanks Phil
From BOB PARKER (Sun Mar 21 11:33:07 1999 ):
I WAS WONDERING IF I CAN USE THE OLD NIKON FTN STYLE LENSES ON MY FA
From Mykal (Fri Mar 19 09:45:47 1999 ):
I would like to know if I could find the battery compartment for the MD-15 mine is shorting out somehow and is melting the side of it...or if anyone is selling them I would like to know who to contact...
From Robert Saltzman (Fri Mar 12 11:46:55 1999 ):
Please help me with a list of Nikon flash units that will work with FA TTL. Also, I have heard somewhere that there is an adapter that will allow the use of non-Nikon strobes in TTL mode. Does anyone know about this? Thanks.
From CESCATO Studio (Thu Mar 4 01:40:23 1999 ):
Hello! Since putting my comments on this web site I have had a few emails about the FA. I have 2 of them in my studio and find them to be excellent. Look for yourself, my portfolio is available at www.angelfire.com/ia/cescato
From Lars (Wed May 19 18:37:01 1999 ):
Another note on tele converters: Does anyone know how the TC-201, TC-301 and TC-14B transfers the Maximum Aperture of the lens in use to the camera's Maximum Aperture Lever? Is it direct or do they shift the aperture reading 2, 2 and 1.4 f-stop? My own guess based on what the lever seems able to read (refer to the prior posting) is that they directly transfer the max aperture of the lens. Otherwise there would have been the need of multipli of all the aperture readings with 2 and squareroot2 (1.4). This is not the case. But the vignetting increase as you add a tele converter? That is what I heard. So how can the AMP then take this vignetting into account? We are back with the matches again. In order to test this I am going to see whether the AMP gives different readings with different match lengths in combination with the TC-200 and a typical 'difficult' motive. I will keep you informed. Have you ever wondered why there is no tripod mount on a tele converter? I have had my uncle make me one, but it is bulky and heavy, compared to if it had been built into the TC housing. I guess Nikon does not want TCs too become too popular (the have tele lenses to sell) but then again I thought this was regulated by the pricing!............
From Lars (Wed May 19 04:16:53 1999 ):
It seems I will have to answer this one myself. No! You cannot fool Nikon FA (the Clever Classic) - not in this way at least. But the head of a match will do just fine. How is that? Well as you might have guessed I am the owner of a tele converter of the old type, a TC-200, so off course I was sorry not to be able to use the AMP measurement with this. I asked myself why not? Isn't the TC-200 as well as TC-300 and TC-14 AI of nature? Well according to Leonard they are (or I presume it is those he refers to as such in some of the lens compatibility charts [http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/f90compartchart.htm]). But does AI stand for Auto Indexing or Maximum Aperture Auto Indexing as sometimes stated? Well from the rear the TC-200 looks just as an AI modified lens. It has the meter coupling ridge (AI ridge) but not the lug (lens speed indexing post) or focal length indexing ridge [refer to http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/aiais.htm] . Is this why the AMP wont work? lets just quickly go back to my question about the lens type signal notch just over the lens locking detent on the lens coupling plate. I tried to fill this to see if it had any effect on the AMP (the AMP is easily tested by pressing the metering changeover switch as the camera is pointed towards a typically difficult motive; like the desktop lamp in the middle of the frame, bordered by relative shade). Well the blocking of the notch did noot make any difference (some people actually think that it is this notch that give info on the focal length (I did before this investigation), but since it is in the same place on all AI-S lenses this is not the case [check this at http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm the position on the 20/2.8 and the 300/2.8 but notice that the 300/2.8 is mirrored! and see the explanation on the function further down that page]. This wasn't really a big surprise since AI lenses does not have this notch. So it had to be the lens speed indexing post. Not wanting to glue something onto the TC I looked inside the camera at the maximum aperture indexing lever (there is a good illustration on this at http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/fa7.htm). This could be levered with something small that would even be kept in place by the lever's spring loading - something small like the head of a match! The AMP was up and running now with the 'AI' TC-200 and my 20/2.8 (well an unusual combination I presume [40/5.6] but it was just fine to keep the desk top lamp from filling out the hole picture, as it would have, had I used one of my massive tele lenses... So why do you need a converter anyway?......) The length of the match (app. 7 mm) showed out to be the equivalent of f/4.5 (by carefully using a finger to lever the lever I later found out it reads 1.2/1.4/1.8/2.0/2.5/2.8/3.5/4.0/4.5/5.6/8.0 & 11.0 but I still haven't got the exact measures of the corresponding distances. So would the camera do S mode? I think so but I could get under exposure if the match length did not correspond to the lens speed. How about Program mode? Would it do fast mode? Nope, then the focal length indexing pin needed to be activated. That is the push switch inside the body at the same height as the lens release pin. This is activated by the focal length indexing ridge (on AI-S's > 105 mm and E's > 100 mm ), and cannot easily be kept in position by a piece of a match! On the rear view of the 300/2.8 you see this ridge going all the way past the lens release detent compared to the 20/2.8 where it stops even before the lens type notch. The match trick wont do in long run, as I have to pick the tiny bit out whenever I change to a real AI or AI-S lens so I guess I will just have to modify the TC it from AI to AI+ ??
From Lars Holst Hansen (Sat May 15 19:55:48 1999 ):
The AMP does not work with the older teleconverters TC-200, TC300 and TC14. Would it be possible to 'fool' the camera by making a lens type signal notch (7 on the lens coupling map[http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm])? Or will the AMP still need info on focal length and lens speed as outlined in the AMP flow chart[http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/fatech/matrixflowchart.htm]? Suggestion: It would be cool to include a site map or ewen a internal search engine to make info on this fabulous site more accesible!! Cheers!
From abhijit v. kane (Sat May 15 19:31:42 1999 ):
would anybody explain me in detail the metering operations for NIKON FA in its various modes.i intend to purchase a used one, but want to know the system before that. i searched for the operations manual but could not find one.can i know where to download the manual from. thanx in anticipation of a reply
From jayaraman (Sat May 15 12:30:11 1999 ):
I got back my FA camera from Nikon repair center saying they no longer service the camera and have no reapir parts available. I was disappointed. The least I would have expected them to do is to ascertain if the problem was the flex circuit or a very simple one. Now my camera shop is scouting for other repair facilities that may have parts (old stock) that can be used to repair it. So FA buyers must be real collectors to spend the money, not users. It was a good camera. sigh.

Messages : 001-050 | 051-100 | 101-150 | 151-200 | 201-250 | 251-300 | 301-319

| Back | to Index Page of Nikon FA SLR Camera Model(s)
| Back | to Message Board for Nikon FA Bodies

| Nikon F | Nikon F2 | Nikon F3 | Nikon F4 | Nikkormat(s) |
| Nikon FM Series | Nikon FE Series | EMFGFG20 |
| Nikkor Resources | Series-E optics |

| Back | Index Page of Michael Liu's Nikon SLR Models
| Back | Main Index Page of Pictorial History of Nikon SLRs

* The Eyes of Nikon ...

Home - Photography in Malaysia

Copyright © 1999. leofoo ®. MIR Web Development Team. Credit: MCLau, EEWyn, CyLeow, Chuck Hester, Ted Wengelaar etc. Made with a PowerMac, broadcast with a Redhat Linux powered server.