Nikon FA - Archived 051-100 Message Board/Guestbook

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Nikon FA - Archived 051-100 Message Board/Guestbook

Nikon FA w/50mm f/1.8.jpg

From val (Mon May 3 05:41:37 1999 ):
I am interested in purchasing a lens or two for my Nikon FA, but am somewhat confused, apparently Nikon makes cheap lenses and some good ones. How can I distinguish the good lenses from the others? Answer appreciated. Val.
From Jayaraman (Sun May 2 13:24:13 1999 ):
To Alan's question... BC is Battery check and will light up the little LED. Hi. To Ivis' question a FA body in excellent condition could be as much as $450 in stores if you were to buy, and about $350 at the shows. Then add the lenses etc. I have seen one with data back under $400. Knowing that Nikon stopped production long ago. I would probably pay about $300 if I were to buy. It is all in US$ and you can do a bit of math converting to other currency.
From Jayaraman (Sun May 2 13:13:38 1999 ):
To Tony wright... A used Nikon FA in USA seem to be selling around $350 for a exc+ body and $150 for the MD15 at shows. The lens if it is not Nikon and is at least 3.5 shod be worth b'tn $80-$100. My experience is if you trust the person you are buying it from and your own gut feel about the purchase. Most photographers being professional will be more than reasonable and even let you try out the Camera with a roll. If there is a flash available see if you can open the back and flash the camera observing the light thru the back. If you see a clean white circle with full lens opening, the camera is probably sync'g ok. Other than sending it in for a calibration I would not know how to have it assessed.
From Jayaraman (Sun May 2 13:05:07 1999 ):
To Joe Ramos symptoms... I had a similar symptom with the lens months before all electronics failed. It could be coincidental. My understanding reading the pages on Titanium shutter is that it shd have lasted over 2500 rolls; I am probably <500 rolls on the camera so far. It is an indication of poor reliability. I have to send my camera in to find out if the processor has failed. Many times it may be chip capacitors. My understanding is it is going to set me back about $200US, unless I keep it as a back up and buy another used body. I have had Canons and Olympus going back 20 years. Of course, the electronic cameras are not that old. I understand talking to some shops that Nikon centers have a fixed cost repair policy around here. Any way, good luck.
From Joe Ramos (Sat May 1 07:02:35 1999 ):
I bought a FA in January of 99, So far I am very please with it's preformance. I did have one problem, while on a shoot I went to advance the film and the "film advance lever" would not engage the film to advance it forward. It seem like the camera just died, nothing worked! I removed the film with no damage or lost any frames. I then removed the 70-210 nikon lens and reattached the 50mm and the camera was working again with no further problems. Iam trying to find out what happen.
From Lars (Thu Jun 3 23:26:14 1999 ):
Kevin complained about little response on the FE message board, but this certainly holds for this board to! In a earlier posting I happened to complain that Nikkors were restricted to full F-stops. You can actually use mid- settings (between the clicks) and my guess is that exactly midways between two click also equals exactly squareroot2 times the amount of light the upper aperture of the two (highest number) lets pass.
From Michael Chick (Thu Jun 3 20:42:33 1999 ):
I am looking for a rough valuation for the following equipment; Nikon FA Serial Number; 5118946 Lens 35-75mm F2 Serial Number; 3561147 Can anyone help? Thanks. MC.
From Robert J.L. Willems (Mon May 24 16:56:53 1999 ):
Lars, Please check your email: I have send you some pics of my Ai-modified 55mm F1.2 Greetings from Holland !
From Robert J.L. Willems (Mon May 24 16:20:12 1999 ):
Dear Lars, Thanks for the usefull answers. In message of may 23 you wrote this to me: "If you are handy and really want to use the AMP you could make an extra modification; a MAXIMUM APERTURE INDEXING POST on the right spot! Can I ask you what the MAXIMUM APERTURE INDEXING POST looks like on your zoom? Since the maximum aperture changes as one zooms does the post also change position or is it immobile?" My english is not very good so I don't fully understand what you ment by the "Maximum aperture indexing post on the right spot ..." The aperture range goes from F1.2 to F2/2.8/4/5.6/8/11 to 16 (maximum). What do you ment by the "what the ... looks like on your zoom" ? Please tell me more about the extra modification to use the AMP metering with a modified Ai ... Thanks !
From Lars (Sun May 23 23:20:05 1999 ):
Dear Bob! Your problem is very similar to the problem with the TC-200 (see below!). You will not be able to use AMP with your AI modified 55/1.2. The FA will use center weighted metering no matter how the METERING CHANGEOVER SWITCH [refer to http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/map.htm] is set (pushed in with red marking visible, or left out). I believe this is made clear in the it is in the Instuction Manual. As noted earlier (below) you can however trick the camera! If you are handy and really want to use the AMP you could make an extra modification; a MAXIMUM APERTURE INDEXING POST on the right spot! Can I ask you what the MAXIMUM APERTURE INDEXING POST looks like on your zoom? Since the maximum aperture changes as one zooms does the post also change position or is it immobile?
From Robert J.L. Willems (Sun May 23 21:48:18 1999 ):
Last week I bought me a mint 55mm F1.2 Ai Nikkor for about $250.00. After I get home, I saw it is NOT a Ai but Ai MODIFIED lens. At first sight no problem, but after reading some information I'm starting to get worry about my Ai modified Nikkor ... The Ai modified Nikkors didn't have a lug on the back to give the meter extra information. Therefore I can't use this Ai modified Nikkor with the FA Matrix metering ... MY QUISTION: Mostly I use my FA with Matrix metering. Do I have to switch MANUALY to centerweight metering when I use my Ai modified lens ? Goes the camera automaticilly over to centerweight metering when he didn't find the nessecary lugs on the Ai modified lens ? What about the "Stop-down exposure mesurement" methode ? Has anyone some experience with this methode ? Please send me all interesting information ! Thanks a lot ! Bob from Holland
From Lars (Sun May 23 19:17:18 1999 ):
To all of you looking for the hand grip; Put some pressure on your dealer. This is obviously not an item they would usually have in stock, but let them contact the import agent or the repair place. They could have it. As I bought my FA it also didn't have the grip. I only discovered this after some weeks but the dealer was good enough to get me one from the import agent, for no extra charge. I do not believe you will find anyone willing to give away (nor sell) their own hand grip.
From Robert J.L. Willems (Sat May 22 23:12:47 1999 ):
Hi ! I'm the owner of a Nikon FA body with MD15 motor drive, Ai 55mm F1.2 objective, Ais 28-85mm F3.5/4.5 and a Nikkor Ais 180mm ED F2.8 objective. I use this set since 1993 and a DON'T WANT ANTOHER CAMERA SET :-) Some times I use my camera without my motor drive and here is the reason of this message: I'm looking for a handgrip which can be mounted on the front of the body when the motor drive is not used. I can't find this grip by resellers ... may be someone can help me ! If you have such a grip or do you know where I can get such grip, please mail me ! I live in Holland (the Netherlands, West Europe). Thanks a lot !
From Conrad Yetter (Fri May 21 09:08:26 1999 ):
I am looking for the Eyepiece lens, and the eyecup for my FA. Both peices came up missing. I used to have an oversized eyecup, and would like to get another one, but will settle for the standard size cup.
From Lars (Thu May 20 18:56:45 1999 ):
Preliminary results in the AMP match test: The AMP DOES NOT give a detectable different shutter time with a '40/3.5' and a '40/11.0' (the Nikkor AI-S 20/2.8 + TC-200 + two lengths of match pieces)! Though this is only a very preliminary conclusion since it is based on the shutter readout (NO PICTURES TAKEN). The actual shutter time could very well have differed, with both of the times rounded to the same (in this case 1/8 s with f:4.0 (resulting in f:8.0 with the TC-200). FA does not show intermediate shutter times as some of the new cameras do, although it will surely use them (ref.: Danish manual of Nikon FA). Please also note that this preliminary test was done with only the 'desk top lamp motive'. This could have been just one case (of 30.000 motives in the computer) that did not give a difference. So further testing with a full range of max apertures and a larger sample of motives is off course recommended. This got me thinking about shutter times in general: Any f-stop is a doubling or halving of the shutter time, but it is obvious that there are some rounding on the shutter time dial [1 2 4 8 16 30 60 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000] . The rule is followed from 1 to 16 but then 32 becomes 30 and what would have been 120 (2*60 ) becomes 125 in stead. From 125 upwards - no problem. So what shutter times are actually used? The ones shown on the dial? Going from the fast times they 'should' have been: 1000 500 250 125 62.5 31.25 16.125 8.0625 4.03125 2.016125 1.0080625. Does this have any practical importance in practical photography? Probably not with the tolerant films of today. The classic Nikons does not gives us many ways of fine tuning the exposure anyway with the relatively crude settings of time and aperture (only full f-stops). So why bother? Inquisitiveness and the pursuit of knowledge, could be an answer.
From Lars (Sun Jun 27 17:11:28 1999 ):
Stephen - What do you exactly mean by portrait mode?
From stephen (Sun Jun 27 11:06:23 1999 ):
does anyone have any info about the fa's matrix metering not working in portrait mode? or is this just a rumour?
From Lars (Wed Jun 23 07:15:30 1999 ):
Matt - you don't need a manual! Everything you need to know is somewhere on these Nikon sites or otherwise take a look at the FM messageboard!
From Matt (Wed Jun 23 03:33:15 1999 ):
Does anyone have a copy of the Nikon SB-15 Manual? I picked one up from a used shop for my FA and want to get the most out of it...
From Lars (Sun Jun 20 07:44:48 1999 ):
Thomas - mr. Kuraoka's point was that the s in AI-s did not stand for anything (Super, Shutter, Speed whatever) but maybe it does? Yes AI lenses do have tiny f-numbers for ADR - but the smallest f-numbers (16, 22 or 32) are NOT ORANGE on AI as they are on AI-s. How does the AMP of FA compare to the Matrix metering of N90?
From Thomas (Sun Jun 20 06:45:00 1999 ):
Hi Lars.... in response to your posting of (Sat Jun 5 22:50:07 1999)I think the explanation is probably more or less correct. For example, the camera I most recently purchased is the Nikon N90s, which is a later revision of the n90, with some added performance features. (Don't worry, I still have both of my FA's... plan to hang on to them for quite a while!). I think it's kind of like how with cars and what-not they add an "s" to the end of the model to indicate 'sport' or 'super'. Do the AI lenses have the tiny F numbers on the very edge to see through the viewfinder? I know the AIs's do...
From Lars (Fri Jun 18 04:52:16 1999 ):
Hi Josep - did you see the detailed descripition of the SB-16 @ http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe2/basic11.htm ? I don't know why Leonard would want to hide it away in the FE2 site ;-)
From Lars (Mon Jun 7 14:52:58 1999 ):
Dear Josep! Yes SB-16 and FA are fully compatible. But make sure to get the SB-16B (this has a different under part than the SB-16A which is designed for F3) this way you do not have to fiddle with the AS-6 adapter and most important you get TTL OTF-metering. Read about the SB-16B and how to use it here (it is in English - sorry): http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/operation/basic10.htm http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/operation/basic11.htm http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/fa6.htm
From Josep Porta (Mon Jun 7 01:06:17 1999 ):
I am from Catalonia in Spain. Is the Flash SB16 compatible with Camera FA ? Where I can find in Catalonia the "Flash SB16" with the Spanish Manual ? What is the price for "Flash SB16" and the Camera FA ? In whitch position I have to put the Camera and the Flash for perfect synchronize ?
From Lars (Sat Jun 5 22:50:07 1999 ):
Here is a question that might be of interest to you FA (and AIs) users. I put this yesterday at the Q&A section of photo.net: " What does the "s" in Nikkor AIs stand for? It is not explained in the Nikon FA operation manual although the AIs was designed for this camera. If you say "s" for "shutter" please explain how it comes then that FA will do S mode (as well as P mode (slow)) with AI lenses (using an automatic instant stop-down metering as the one used in FG's P mode; also not described in the FA manual but refer to http://www.cs.ubc.ca/spider/bmtong/nikon/2.html#2.11.2)! Answers with references will be appreciated!" Apart from a few flaming comments (at least we are spared for those here!) a got this answer from John Kuraoka: "Because Nikon itself prints both "AI-s" (lens boxes, instruction sheets) and "AI-S" (FA manual), I believe the "s" stands for nothing more than the next iteration of AI -- sort of like what it indicates in N90s, N8008s, etc. The explanations I've read are rather roundabout descriptions that work backward from what it does, like "s" for "shutter" or "s" for "speed," neither of which, as Lars points out, have to do with anything..."
From Lars (Fri Jul 9 02:28:51 1999 ):
Cescato! - well David seemed to put weight on the negative sides of FA whereas I tried to defend it. It is not the most advanced but it was and it is still going strong. How can you agree with us both? Kind regards, Lars.
From CESCATO Studio (Thu Jul 8 11:08:44 1999 ):
David and Lars, I agree with all you have said. I was on this chat a while ago. I too use the camera in manual mostly, only in rapidly changing light will I go to a program mode. Check out my site: www.angelfire.com/ia/cescato everything was take with an FA
From Lars (Wed Jul 7 01:50:51 1999 ):
David - I now know for sure that AMP will not always give more exposure. BTW, in the manual it says that the compensation range is not as big with AMP than with center w. - why it does not explain and I can 't think of a reason why.
From Melvin Chen (Tue Jul 6 22:45:49 1999 ):
Can somebody tell me the age of my Nikon FA? The serial number is 5133248. Please send me an e-mail if anyone can tell me the rough age. thank you a million Times.
From Lars (Tue Jul 6 03:58:38 1999 ):
David - I am not too sure that AMP always gives more exposure (over exposure). It is very easily tested as mentioned below by just triggering the meter switch "on the run" so to say. In the manual it says that the exposure compensation does not work properly in connection with the AMP but I did a test that showed otherwise. So you can still bracket with AMP. It is however faster to bracket in manual using shutter dial and aperture ring. Thought (and a spotmeter) have never hurt...
From David (Mon Jul 5 04:16:41 1999 ):
I had an FA years ago, but I never really trusted AMP. Most of my work was in manual anyway, which doesn't use AMP. I liked to carefully select my own exposure and bracket. I understand AMP always gave you more exposure, so it isn't any help with a spotlighted performer on stage, for instance. I do like the fact that the FA takes an inexpensive mechanical cable release and has a mechanical B setting.
From Lars (Sat Jul 3 23:46:06 1999 ):
David - to FA all AF lenses are the same. In addition to their AF features they have all the AIs features. See http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/faf4compatchart.htm
From David (Sat Jul 3 23:07:55 1999 ):
Do D-type AF Nikkors work with the FA? If so, what FA features such as shutter-priority do you lose?
From Lars (Mon Jun 28 21:29:37 1999 ):
Stephen - This was covered @ http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/fa5.htm But why don't you test it yourself? It is extremely easy to temporarily switch to center weighted while you shoot using the little meter selector.
From stephen (Mon Jun 28 08:02:13 1999 ):
sorry, portrait mode as in with the camera on it's side, with the long side of the frame vertical, the opposite of landscape. I heard or read somewhere that the FA's amp (matrix) metering get's confused when the camera is used vertically, because of the 5 metering zones in amp being in a different orientation. apparently the f4 has a sensor of some kind that detects whether the camera is horizontal or vertical but the FA lacks this. I am just curious as i do a lot of portrait/vertical/camera on it's side stuff in low light situations and i'd like to hear whether anyone has had problems with the fa in this situation. is it better to just use the centre weighted metering option maybe? hope that clears things up a bit, any help greatly appreciated, stephen.
From Lars (Tue Aug 10 16:02:11 1999 ):
David - Oh yes 1/250'th as flash syncro is certainly an advantage. What I dislike is that it is set automatically in A, P and S mode since it might not be the desired time with fill flash. Then you have to meter the ambient light with flash off - get the right shutter - turn flash on etc.. Did I say that AMP did not work in S mode? If I did it was by mistake - sorry. It certainly works with every mode but M - and that is a pitty, since fast bracketing is easiest done in Manual mode.
From Paul Darman (Tue Aug 10 10:59:06 1999 ):
I have a question on the FA's AMP metering. ON my FA, try as I might to get the AMP to give me meaningful compensation with backlighted subjects, the shots are always still about 1/2 stop too dark. In fact, with a back-lighted scene (in landscape mode) I notice that switching between CW and AMP gives at most 1 stop difference. I cannot seem to get compensation that really pulls in the picture on slide film. Is the norm? Sky shots are fine, as are most scenes with highlights. thnx for any help....
From David (Tue Aug 10 08:48:18 1999 ):
Lars: I always thought the 1/250 sync speed was an advantage, because so often I wanted fill in bright conditions, such as the beach. I guess you could be right though. It is strange AMP does not work in S.
From Maintainer (Sun Aug 8 15:13:27 1999 ):
New section for discussion on lenses, bookmark for future reference: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/lenses/optic.msql
From Ron (Sat Aug 7 23:30:40 1999 ):
I have just purchased an SB24 flash for my FA .Has anyone used this combination . The manuals on both the FA ans SB 24 are very basic. It does state, that to use the flash Use the manual setting , but first you must get the setings before switching the flash . Anyhow afterdoing this and then swithing the flash on the led light in the view finder wont stop blinking ,indicating that there is something not set wrong. No matter what setting I have it still wont stop blinking. Is there a fault or are they not compatible . I dont seem to have this problem with my Fe2. Can someone help? Ron
From Lars (Wed Aug 4 23:23:11 1999 ):
Hi Rudiger - the places I know that keeps repair manuals (http://www.cameraweb.com/manuals.htm; http://www.craigcamera.com) don't seem to presently cover the FA but maybe they will in future.
From Rudiger Schafer (Wed Aug 4 18:15:19 1999 ):
Hello there! I am enjoying this FA side very much. I understand that Nikon does not repair the FA anymore (or doesn't have the spare parts in stock). Somebody suggested to buy an old FA and keep it as a source for spare parts. Can anybody tell me how difficult it is to do these repairs yourself and are there any technical drawings out there ( I am sure the Nikon repair shops had to use somthing!). Cheers Ruediger
From Lars (Sat Jul 24 20:19:42 1999 ):
David! - Sorry for misunderstanding you! You are right - FA lacks an exposure lock. I also really see no reason why the AMP was limited to A and P mode. Another thing I find annoying is the automtic shutter speed setting in A (and P) mode while using dedicated flash. For daylight fill flash you might not want the 1/250 s. then you have to go manual again but the meter wont work unless you switch off the flash. I am thinking off making a remote on-off switch for the flash to stick onto the camera below the advance lever (control wheel style). Then it would be perfectly workable with the right thumb. I have been reluctant to do the opreration yet though.
From Davie (Wed Jul 14 10:11:22 1999 ):
CESCATO: I went to your site. Nice work. The Fira and IA senics are especially nice.
From David (Wed Jul 14 10:04:21 1999 ):
Lars, I was not trying to cast a negative light on the FA. I wish I had mine back. It's just that I didn't necessarily know how it would respond. The thing about it always giving more exposure came from a review in a photography magazine. I am surpised your test showed otherwise. I agree that thought never hurt. My exposures were VERY thoughtful. Perhaps too much so. And to dare another negative: manual was the only way to have an exposure hold.
From Chuck Ross (Tue Sep 7 10:33:59 1999 ):
I found it! I feel kinda silly. The little compartment on the MD-15 is just a place to store the cover for the MD-15 contacts on the bottom of the camera. Is my face red....
From Chuck Ross (Mon Sep 6 23:47:39 1999 ):
On the MD-15 motor body, the inside part, the part that connects to the FA's bottom, there is a little slotted disk that looks like a battery compartment cover, but when I opened it, there's nothing in there. I'm currently waiting for a used MD-15 manual to show up, but am curious about the function of this little compartment. Anyone know? Thanks, Chuck
From Eric (Sun Aug 29 05:06:53 1999 ):
Here is some information on the cause of the buzzing sound made by the FA in M and A, but not in S or P modes: I have found that in M or A modes, if you stop down the lens with the stop-down lever and keep the lever depressed during an exposure, it does not make the noise, and sounds exactly as it does in S and P modes. Furthermore, if you set the shutter on B, then fire the shutter and keep it open, and move the stop-down lever, it makes the buzzing noise as you move the lever up and down. If you open the shutter and then actually move the diaphragm control pin (with the lens off) up and down slowly, you can sense the gears precisely. I then noticed that in S mode, with the lens off, the stop-down pin is not moved downward during an exposure as it is in M or A modes. If you set the shutter for a 1 second exposure in S mode and move the pin up and down during that second, there is no gear sound as there is if you do this in M mode. It is obvious that the sound is coming, not from the shutter, but from the mechanism stopping down the lens. There is definitely a mechanical gear train involved, but the question is why it is there, and what is different about P and S modes, that it is not engaged. Perhaps it is there to slow the return of the diaphragm to the open position, in order to reduce vibration. Does anyone know?
From Bruce (Sat Aug 28 00:26:01 1999 ):
This site, at: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/fa5.htm ..... says that the centre-weighted pattern on the FA is 75:25. Could someone point me to the source of that (perhaps the original FA brochure). It isn't in the manual. I called Nikon (1-800-NIKONUS), and they told me the centre-weighted pattern for the FA is 60:40. Moose Peterson says 60:40, too, in his "Nikon System Handbook, 4th ed.". Regards,
From Lars (Fri Aug 27 20:04:42 1999 ):
Hi Eric! I have never noticed any buzzing with my FA. What lens did you use? S and P mode differs from A and M in that FA will make an instant stop down metering (as described by G. Mendelson @ http://members.home.net/nikonfaq/3.html#3.12) if a non AI-S lens is mounted. That makes me expect an "extra" sound to be present with P and S! Anyway the camera can shunt this instant stop down if it recognises that an AI-S lens is mounted - that is why I asked you what kind of lens you had on.
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