Nikon FA - Archived 251-300 Message Board/Guestbook

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon FA - Archived 251-300 Message Board/Guestbook

Nikon FA w/50mm f/1.8.jpg

From Lars (Thu Nov 16 15:37:29 2000 ):
A. Hawkins - various models of FA? There was a chrome a black and a gold... If you haven't already check http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/society/cousins/cousins14-e.htm and the "gold link" given bellow.
From ümit alper tümen (Thu Nov 16 15:10:21 2000 ):
I haven't download manual instruction pdf file if somebody have it please send me
From Len Paris (Tue Nov 14 02:51:15 2000 ):
Will any of the current flashes, like the SB-28, work well with the FA in dedicated, TTL mode? Len ---
From Andrew Hawkins (Tue Nov 7 23:16:07 2000 ):
From Andrew Hawkins (7/11/00) If anyone has any information regarding the history of the NIKON FA series of cameras please Email me. I am particualry interested in who designed the various models and where they evolved from. Many thanks Andrew.
From Sebastian (Tue Nov 7 01:42:08 2000 ):
I just became proud owner of a Nikon FA. The only thing missing to complete my ´photographic´luck is the manual. If anyone has the pdf version please mail it to me. Thanks a lot, also to the makers of this wonderful site. Sebastian.
From Eric (Sat Dec 16 02:58:07 2000 ):
S. Smitz - You should take Lars advice and have it fixed. Have the shop you bought it from do it for you, as this should be covered in the warranty they gave you. I really don't agree with fiddling with the camera yourself, but if you consider yourself mechanically inclined, and you're willing to take the risks, go ahead. The eyepiece shutter is one of the best (and unique) features on the FA, and really something you cannot do without when you have your camera on a tripod.
From Lars (Fri Dec 8 18:59:45 2000 ):
S. Smitz - I would either ask to get it fixed under waranty or get a discount and fix it myself. It should not be very difficult, as the mechanism is very simple and quite accessable when first the top is off (this can be a bit trickier but is not impossible at all).
From S Schmitz (Mon Dec 4 02:41:25 2000 ):
After a long absence from the SLR world, I just purchased a used Nikon FA w/50mm 1.8 AI Nikkor lens. I have a week to determine if the camera is in good working order, then a 30 day warranty. The shop gave me an owner's manual which is a wonderful help; this site is even better since it has answered all my questions except one. Can anyone help with this? I have been trying to move the eyepiece shutter lever on the rear of the camera near the eyepiece upwards to avoid stray light entering; it will not budge. Any suggestions??
From Lars (Thu Nov 30 18:44:17 2000 ):
Norton - As far as I know there is no way to say tell from the serial when an FA was made. As far as I recall they were only produced from 1983 through 1987 however.
From Lars (Thu Nov 30 18:40:47 2000 ):
Ricky - You do NOT need AI-S to get matrix (or AMP as it is called with FA). Check this page: http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/MAIPposition.htm
From Norton (Thu Nov 30 03:08:00 2000 ):
Could someone tell me how to find the year an FA was made. Is there any kind of breakdown with the serial numbers and the years they were manufactured. Thanks...
From Ricky (Sun Nov 26 12:25:39 2000 ):
Hi, I am currently trying to decide between an FA or an FE2 for my next camera. From this site I have gathered that you need Ai-S lenses to take advantage of the matrix metering on the FA. Will generic lenses eg. Sigma work with the matrix metering? Can anyone give advice on which would be the better camera in general for landscape/nature photography with long telephotos. I am starting to think the FE2 will be more reliable in the long run. Has anyone had serious electrical problems with the more sophisticated FA? Thanks.
From Adel.Ribeiro (Sat Nov 25 01:16:41 2000 ):
I agreed with Eric. It is rather unfair to compare a Y2K camera with product of the mid-'70 (the ELW-FA). The comparison by Mr Manuel is interesting and informative (FA/EOS-5) but meaningless in many ways as sensible man will make rightful decision between products (The political aspect is also hardly convincing as either one is selected, taxes will go up !) So, may be we confine the discussion within matters relating to Nikon FA without creating more off-topic differences of opinion.
From Eric (Sat Nov 25 00:12:02 2000 ):
Why must message boards be cluttered with brand wars? This is suppose to be a site devoted to the FA......
From Germán Willie (Wed Nov 22 13:38:37 2000 ):
Just by becoming a lawyers is not good enough, you need to join in as a Democrats... A Democratic lawyer will think in their legal opinion the Nikkormat EL-W is far more reliable than a electronic Nikon FA operational system because it has a smoother "manual operation". Obviously, Matrix system, in many case, may not provide accurate results (other than similar operations happened Latin American, central and south African nations and some Asian countries which may need UN observers.. to monitor "exposure control" during the process of selectiing aperture and shutter speed combinations)....
From Tom (Wed Dec 27 08:47:34 2000 ):
Hey, I have a couple of questions. Can someone please clear up the issue of; the last production run on the FA used a smooth shutter design instead of the honey-combed design. I am told this was an improvement by Nikon, due to the older ones sticking? Second; which SB flash is the best to use with the FA, cost regardless. I am bidding on an SB-16b, but could easily get an SB-25, or 28. Would I gain anything? Thanks, Tom
From Lars (Fri Dec 22 18:19:15 2000 ):
JackOneal - There are supposedly exeptions to the compatibility rules of the FA. @ http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm Leonard lists lenses that cannot be used on the FA even when they have been AI-modified. This info is extracted from the FA instruction manual. I assume that the incompatibility is due to protruding rears that could interfere with the LENS SPEED INDEXING LEVER of the camera. If this is the case I would expect to find warnigs of the same lenses in the EM, FG, F-301, F-501 and F4 manuals as well. Bellow the F4 lens compatibility chart @ http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/faf4compatchart.htm#f4lenschart these lenses are indeed mentioned as incompatible. I am not saying that a special modification cannot be done to allow the FA to accept these lenses!
From JackOneal (Wed Dec 20 09:31:52 2000 ):
To "Brian M": There is ONLY One type of Nikkor lens where you cannot used effectively with all the metering mode with your Nikon FA (Or for that matter, any other Nikon cameras - other than the professional class Nikon F(2,3 and F4); that was the older Nikkor lenses which do not have a Meter coupling ridge on the back of the lens. We called those lenses as "Non-AI" Nikkor. Yes, they can be modified to be a "AI-Nikkor" (Which stands for Automatic Maxiumum Aperture Indexing". You mentioned the ".. Nikkormat EL versus Nikon FA...", so I would assume you had a EL before, that was a pre 1977 Nikon camera body which was one of those many "NON-AI" bodies, which can accept your non-AI 28mm lens with full compatibility. But to use your non-AI 28mm lesn with your Nikon FA, You wuld certainly need to do a AI-conversion to make it with a minimum spec of "AI". The maintainer (Mr Lars) is most well verse with this issue and he has a website just to address this topic (Forget about his URL) but there is another one here, See this page: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm By the way, the AI and non-AI issue is not limiting to Nikon, most other camera manufacturers had similar "upgrades" done to their lens family, for an instance, Leica has two cams and three cams Leitz lenses, Canon older FL lenses is not compatible FULLY on newer FD mount camera models etc... even the Pentax screw mount spotmatic bodies are not directly usable on thir K-Mount SLR bodies etc...but as Mr Eric putting it correctly, you had a super deal of the Millennium at USD4-00.
From Eric (Wed Dec 20 07:45:21 2000 ):
Brian - I don't know the answer to the problem of compatibility to the FA, but you got that lens for next than nothing ($4.00 US) and I'd just take it to a camera shop and trade it in for another lens. I
From Eric (Wed Dec 20 07:42:09 2000 ):
Sara - the N2000 was made from 1985 to 1990. It's sister camera, the N2020, was Nikon's first autofocus system (outside of the short lived F3AF). The N2000 is the same camera as the 2020, with the exception of AF.
From Brian M (Wed Dec 20 07:39:44 2000 ):
I am the fellow who posted the FA versus EL (not ELW) question. I enjoy my black FA and all of its glorious capabilities, BUT I can't stand the LCD meter display. What started me on this quest was a box of camera "stuff" I picked up at an auction for $7.00 (Canadian, works out to $4.00US). In the box of goodies was a Nikkor 28mm - one of the three lenses (of all the lenses Nikon made) listed in the FA manual that WILL NOT WORK on the FA. The lense is in mint shape, I can't use it and it makes me [as Marvin the Martian would say] sooo very angry. Can any modifications be done to this lens? What is it about this lens that makes it unusable on the FA?
From Nick Proud (Tue Dec 19 12:27:30 2000 ):
I am looking for a late model FA. Black I assume. Does anybody know what the later model serial numbers run from. If that makes sense. Anybody's input will be appreciated.
From sarah (Tue Dec 19 01:37:52 2000 ):
I know this is not the right message board but I am justing getting into photograghy with a Nikon 2000, not sure when this was made, does anyone here know anything about this, any information would be helpful...thanks...
From Peter (Sun Dec 17 22:37:47 2000 ):
Hello.I bought a black Fa with MD-15 in wery good condition, for 600 dollars. Is it too expansive ?
From Ian Anderson (Sun Dec 17 12:49:28 2000 ):
I have a Nikon FA that drains its batteries about 2 hours after they have been put in, there seems to be a fault with with one of the electronic chips. The company that handles Nikon repairs in Perth Western Australia, Hartland Cinemax tells me that the cicuitry needed for the repair is unavailable. Would anyone have suggestions as to how this camera can be fixed it would be greatly appreciated. Regards Ian Anderson.
From Mike (Sat Jan 13 04:24:49 2001 ):
Dear Tom, (Sat 10 Dec) like you I own An FA,( well two actually!) and they ARE beautiful machines, both are well served with MD15's, I would suggest you look at the SB15 flash unit, as it is very compatable with the FA, small but perfect for the camera, it has all the functions you asked for, plus a Motor drive facility, ie, you can use it with MD's attached to the camera, I hope this is of some use to you. Kind regards, Mike
From Jake Haff (Thu Jan 11 12:05:31 2001 ):
Love the site! Keep up the good work! Jake
From Deb Ross (Wed Jan 10 13:42:05 2001 ):
I have an FA gold Nikon Grand Prix '84 edition. Does anyone know of this camera and do they have a value? It has not been out of the original package.
From Jim Donaldson (Wed Jan 10 01:56:47 2001 ):
I'm seeking some advice. I purchased my Nikon FA 14 years ago and it has taken great photographs ever since. One month ago I left the camera in the seat of my daughters stroller while visiting the zoo. My wife put a "siipy cup" with milk in the stoller seat as well. The milk leaked out and irrigated the lower half of the camera. Some of the components seem sticky now. The camera doesn't work at all. I am in serach of someone with the talent to repair my FA. The local camera shop won't touch it - they insist it's ruined. I would like a second opinion before I give it last rights. Any suggestions from anyone?
From Lars (Tue Jan 9 22:54:12 2001 ):
"Out of focus" has mulitiple sources! You could be a victim of excessive subject movement. A faster shutter speed to help this. You could have excessive camera movement. A tripod or a faster shutter or both could help this. The subject could be outside the acceptable zone of focus. Thorough focussing or a smaller aperture (that would increase the zone of focus) could help this. Finally the camera could be faulty and you won't get the the focal plane where it seems to be in the finder. You could test this by taking a picture at the minium distance (here the zone of focus is at its narrowest). If the subject is sharp in the finder but not in the picture - something is wrong!
From Dean Milligan (Sun Jan 7 11:42:58 2001 ):
Hello, I have an FA that I bought 10 or 12 years ago from an eastern supply house through an ad. At the time I bought the body I also picked up a Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 ALs lens. I have never been able to take consistently good photographs with it. I would venture to say that over half appear out of focus. Others seem to have the same luck when using my camera. I had almost given up on it when I come accross this message board. Is there an inherent problem that I'm not aware of? Any sugestions would be appreciated.
From Eric (Thu Jan 4 06:49:46 2001 ):
Ed - Your batteries are weak. You just need to go out and buy a new set. The FA behaves in the manner you described when the batteries are starting to fail.
From Lars (Wed Jan 3 19:04:30 2001 ):
Hi Tom - I am surely using my FA! As a matter of fact I just got a hudge potato masher style flash - the Metz 45 CT-4. It shares the advantage of having two flash bulbs with the SB-16B but on the Metz you can decide yourself whether you won't the secondary bulb to fire or not. With Sb-16 you have to physically block it! Eventhough All ISO style Nikon TTL compatible speedlights will cater for the simple TTL of FA, Sb-16 is the only one with two bulbs (what looks like a second bulb in SB-25, 26 and 28 is really just an anti redeye lamp and FA can't use that). You will get added power with some of the newer speedlights. You should be able to get a new assecory brochure covering frlash and other accesories from a dealer or directly from the Nikon agent of your country.
From Tom (Sat Dec 30 14:19:38 2000 ):
Does anybody read this site anymore? Or are you all playing with your F-100s? I am a new owner of an FA after 23 years with my FM (still alive and well). But now I've got this FA and my old flash unit won't do. I need one that is M, Auto and TTL. I'm biddig on an SB-16b, but I saw one the other day and it's big, I mean BIG. Are there any other flashes that will give me the same features or more, and not be bigger than the camera body? I can't find any comparison charts that tell me anything after the SB-19. I can see that the SB-23 is small, but too close to the lens, hense a good chance for redeye. What I want is a flash that will give me M, auto and ttl on an FA. Go from nearly wide 28 to atleast 85. And I don't know if it's possible, or simply a setting, fill flash. Can someone please respond....
From Ed (Wed Dec 27 11:35:45 2000 ):
I have a problem with my FA. Occasionally The LCD screen turns off and the shutter stops working. I can turn the film advance lever off then back on and press the shutter button halfway and it still won't work. But if I take the battery out and then put it back in then it will start working again. But eventually it will shut off again. Anybody have any ideas?
From Eric (Mon Jan 15 15:03:46 2001 ):
Aniello - I own the same flash that you do. The Fg-20/EM setting is of course for an FG-20 or EM. The A1 and A2 are the flash's auto settings, which it reads by the little eye in the center of the flash. The A1 requires a larger aperture than the A2 setting, but gives more distance in terms of flash effectivness. The A2 requires a larger apeture, uses more battery power, but of course offers more depth of field. You'll see which apeture you need to use depending on which setting you've set it on. Of course you also have to set your film's speed with the flash as well, to get the correct info. The M-TTL setting is for manual or TTL (through the lens) metering. If you have your shutter set on the B or M250 settings, your metering is off and on this setting on the flash you must do your exposure calculations yourself, based on the distance to the subject and the apeture to go along with (the scale below). When you have your camera on it's regular shutter speed settings, metering is activated and TTL flash metering is used. You do need to check the distance scale so you know approx. what apeture you need to be at. Do not use the FG-20/EM setting. That is designed to work with the metering systems of said camera bodies.
From Aniello (Mon Jan 15 12:29:16 2001 ):
I have a Nikon FA with a Vivitar 550FD flash. The flash is supposed to be "compatible" and has the following settings on the back: FG 20 EM; A1; A2 and M - TTL. I have been using the M-TTL but was wondering what the other settings are for and if they would make my job easier (I hate having to adjust the f-stop and focus at the same time.) I would love to be able to set the camera to P and fire away. I tried the FG 20 EM setting but the flash fires inconsistantly. Thanks for your help! Great site.
From maintainer (Mon Jan 15 11:54:13 2001 ):
Nikon Annual Photo Competition (NPCI) has changed to once every two years, the dateline for entry for year 2000-2001 is January 31, 2001, contact your nearest Nikon distributor for official entry form or check more info at http://www.klt.co.jp/Nikon/npci/index.html (Please Don't mail me, I know little about how to enter photo competitions).
From Dr. Merv Rosen (Mon Jan 15 10:04:22 2001 ):
This is the first I have visited your very interesting and informative site. My 15 year old is now beginning a course in photography in high school, and after looking at the requirements for her course I decided my FA that has been sitting dormant since my acquisition of my 90S a few years ago, woulb be a suitable choice for her learning experience. Having lost the original manual due to a theft, I needed a replacement for her .Your replication and most of all review, pertinent comments about the history, and functioning of the classic body and lens systems make me want to go back and reuse it again. Your site is impeccably done , lauds to the preparers. I willl enjoy coming back to it for reference. Your detailing and practical referrences, much moreso than the Fasctory manuals make reading this a pleasure. Thanks merv
From Lars (Sun Jan 14 21:47:10 2001 ):
Mikael - Only Nikon-dedicated speedlights will cater for the ready light in the finder. For a non-dedicated flash use the M mode of the camera (in other modes the shutter will be diverted to 1/250 s). If you want the ambient light to give some atmosphere, try experimenting with slower shutter speeds! If your flash has an auto mode use it too! But be aware that the flash does not know whether you subject is light or dark! Try it out while taking notes!
From Lars (Sun Jan 14 21:41:13 2001 ):
Binoy - I believe you will have difficulties in finder a DOF preview lever but you might be able to make one yourselves! If the offer is good it might be wirth to go for it an attempt this.
From Lars (Sun Jan 14 21:38:13 2001 ):
Jim - if you are inclined you could attempt a self repair! A repair manual can be obtained from various sources. There is a community of repairers at www.egroups.com/group/NikonRepair
From Mikael (Sat Jan 13 17:50:37 2001 ):
Hi there! I just bought a used flash for my FA. I haven't done any flashphotography before so I'm a bit confused. The flash is not ttl, and I guess that's why I don't get any ready-light, or? When you use a non-Nikon autoflash, how do I do? Should I go to manual and put the shutter at 1/250 and then flash, or should the camera be able to communicate with the flash even though it's not a ttl-flash? / Mikael
From Binoy (Sat Jan 13 05:29:31 2001 ):
I wanted to buy a used FA and am zeroing in onto couple of options. The problem with one option is that the lever for the depth of field preview is missing. Can this be fixed? Is it still worth buying the camera without the lever and hope that I will be able fix this up later, provided the deal is good? Someone please assist me in this. Thanks
From Binoy Sebastian (Sat Jan 13 05:18:54 2001 ):
Debb, check out the following site on the FA Gold which was launched sfter the FA won some major camera award http://www.cameraquest.com/nffagold.htm. Check page 7 of this message board. somebody wanted to buy this camera, iin case you want to sell
From Eric (Mon Feb 5 14:03:45 2001 ):
Lars perhaps is right, Joe. TTL is only available within a limited range. Does anyone out there know what the range is? I beleve that it is between 25 and 400 ASA, although I could be wrong.
From Lars (Thu Jan 25 20:48:10 2001 ):
Joe - is your ISO set within the allovable interval for TTL?
From Lars (Thu Jan 25 20:46:11 2001 ):
Mikael - yes, exactly! In automatic flash mode the flash quenches its outoput when "enough" ligh thas hit the metering cell on the flash. With manual flash mode the flash output is not quenched.
From Joe (Wed Jan 24 08:11:51 2001 ):
I am questioning why my FA will not fire a strobe that is set on TTL : I have a problem that I never encountered before. My FA will not fire any strobe, including the Nikon SB-15 that is set on TTL but will fire on manual, MD, A1 and A2 settings. Has anybody had this problem and how is it corrected. PS I have fresh batteries in both the camera and the strobe. I get the ready light in the viewfinder and the camera sets the shutter to 1/250.
From mikael (Tue Jan 23 18:38:50 2001 ):
mmmm, but the automatic setting compared to the manual? Does it measure the amount of light reflected from your "target", when the manual just goes full power?

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