Nikon FA - Archived 101-150 Message Board/Guestbook

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon FA - Archived 101-150 Message Board/Guestbook

Nikon FA w/50mm f/1.8.jpg

From Lars (Fri Aug 27 20:04:42 1999 ):
Hi Eric! I have never noticed any buzzing with my FA. What lens did you use? S and P mode differs from A and M in that FA will make an instant stop down metering (as described by G. Mendelson @ http://members.home.net/nikonfaq/3.html#3.12) if a non AI-S lens is mounted. That makes me expect an "extra" sound to be present with P and S! Anyway the camera can shunt this instant stop down if it recognises that an AI-S lens is mounted - that is why I asked you what kind of lens you had on.
From Eric (Fri Aug 27 09:20:59 1999 ):
Hi, I just bought a used FA and have a question about the sound of the shutter. In manual and aperture priority modes, there is a buzz when the shutter closes. In shutter priority and program modes, the shutter opens and closes with no buzz. Is the buzz normal on the FA? Does anyone know why this happens in two of the modes but not the others? The sound is similar to that made by gear trains, such as in manual shutters or self timers. I would appreciate any help on this matter. Thanks, Eric
From tony (Wed Aug 25 06:27:26 1999 ):
my day has just been wrecked i did not know parts could not be got for the fa anymore.
From JUSTIN (Wed Aug 25 04:10:25 1999 ):
Great web site. Does anyone know where I can get my FA repaired, as NIKON UK no longer repair them or have any spare parts for them?
From Lars (Mon Aug 16 20:54:45 1999 ):
Mitch - both are regarded excellent but some people worry about spares and service. If this is a concern for you consider the FM2, which is stil in production. For prices you should shop arround (Places to look include http://www.bhphoto.com/, http://www.mxv.co.uk/, http://www.graysofwestminster.co.uk, http://www.ffordes.co.uk/, the autions at e-Bay is probably cheaper.
From Mitch (Sat Aug 14 08:39:37 1999 ):
I'm new to photography, and i want a MF Nikon camera, and it seems like the FA is the one i want (or possibly an FE2). since i'm new, i'm not too familiar with one should pay for just a body right now. is there a resource out there for used gear prices? or does anyone have a rough estimate on what to pay for one? any info would help - email djmaytag@terracom.net
From Peter Bell (Mon Oct 4 12:08:25 1999 ):
Hi, just a couple of questions. 1) If anyone gets back to Anthony about his stuck open eyepiece shutter, could they forward to me as well coz mine's stuck open too! 2) Anyone have any info relating serial # to year of production? My FA is #5060935 and I'm wondering when b/n 1983-1989 it was made. Thanks.
From Dale (Mon Oct 4 01:46:54 1999 ):
I have an FA that has the rewind crank missing. Does anyone have one or know a source for FA parts where I might get one. Otherwise the black body is in excellent shape.
From Al Paslow (Tue Sep 28 11:21:55 1999 ):
I am interested in obtaining FA's in the Western Pennsylvania Area. Would like to talk to owners within this area. I have 2 beautiful black bodies with the MD 15 drive. No, sorry they are not for sale. I am looking to expand my FA collection. Al
From trippee (Tue Sep 28 02:42:29 1999 ):
Anybody out there have info on the '84 FA Nikon Gold limited edition of 2000 model. I have a line on reportedly a new-in-box one, but I am feeling very cautious - could it be a fake? Would appreciate any emails to: trippee@theriver.com Thanks
From steve (Tue Sep 21 09:50:08 1999 ):
a friend wants to sell me his nikon fa with a couple of lenses and a flash but the meter does'nt work unless it's on program. he wants 300.00. is this a good price??? any advice wood be great.
From Anthony (Sun Sep 19 07:45:44 1999 ):
This is a fantastic sight, I belong to a small photography club in Prince Edward Island, Canada.Recently, I aquired a Nikon FA, and it works great but needs some parts. The viewfinder curtain button is frozen(luckily on the open setting)Any one have an idea how to free it? The fold out crank on the rewind knob is missing, the knob itself is there and you can rewind the film, but the little fold out lever is missing, would any kind soul out there have an extra floating around? And lastly, the one that I don't know how I will fix without professional assistance, the depth of field preview button is gone! This camera is in amazingly good shape other than those problems. Any way, with some TLC I'm sure I can make it whole again. I would appreciate any help in parts or advice, this camera just feels right in your hand!....Oh....is there a directory on the net for serial numbers so I can find out how exactly when this FA was made. Thanks...........Anthony
From juan de villafranca (Sun Sep 19 05:32:51 1999 ):
hi i have an fa in very good conditions with its md-15motor and an af nikkor28-70mm also manual with 22 to 3.5exposure how much could i sell it all together ots in exellent conditions.
From andre (Sat Sep 18 17:36:35 1999 ):
I wish that there had been such a useful website before I bought my FA in 1984. To pintcher , please check that the camera works because I have a really mint FA (less than 20 rolls of film through it in 15 years) but it is unusable because of circuit board problems.
From Joe (Fri Sep 17 08:02:38 1999 ):
$280 US is a very good price on a used FA in good condition, and it is a very useful camera with it multiple modes. BUT: Parts are hard to find and there were circuit problems in the earliest examples. Before buying any camera used, ask if you can expose a roll of film, and look at the prints or slides before handing over your money. Snapshots are enough, just to verify that all the functions work correctly.
From Pintcher (Sat Sep 11 23:40:56 1999 ):
Hi, I just saw a Nikon FA in black at a kind of pawn shop here in Pretoria, South Africa. Fully working, excellent (good, used) condition. They want to sell it for ZAR 1750.- which is around US-$ 280.-, including (sorry) a Kiron 28 - 210 mm mf lens. I have a Nikon F90x. should I get it as a mf backup body? What do you think? Please let me know soon. Regards Pintcher
From Don (Sat Nov 6 06:15:16 1999 ):
I love my FA!! I am looking for two things: THe little silver button that you push to release the lens (mine fell off in the backountry, I think I have all the little parts inside, and 2) an external battery pack, my batts die two easily. Thanks Don
From Keith Thompson (Tue Oct 26 09:05:27 1999 ):
Anthony: You might also try www.keh.com They have a large selection of used gear and are easy to work with. Good luck, Keith Thompson Atlanta, Ga.
From CESCATO Studio (Wed Oct 20 01:04:05 1999 ):
Anthony, if you are based in the US try www.ebay.com or www.photo.net for used gear, all sorts. If you are in Canada try www.vistek.net or the www.thestar.com newspaper. Contact me if you need more help, I personaly have always stayed away from the WE series lenses all my gear is AIS. Web site: www.angelfire.com/ia/cescato all done on FA's
From anthony (Tue Oct 19 23:19:29 1999 ):
I am looking for a 28mm lens for my Fe and Fa. Finding optics used in my area is quite difficult. I have found a used nikon series "E" 28mm lens. There is an obvious difference in the quality of construction compared to an "AI" lens or even an "AIS" lens, and I could probably live with that, but what about the optics, I have been led to believe that the optics in the "E" series were and are as good as the regular AIS lenses? Could someone please elighten me! I have had a hard time finding a 70-210 or 800-200 f4 or f4.5 moderate zoom, in the price I'm looking for. Could someone reccomend a no name brand or off brand gem at a reasonable price-Canadian or American dollars would be very helpful...........so long........Anthony
From John Jankowski (Tue Oct 19 11:01:06 1999 ):
does the nikon FG handle fit the grip slot on the FA? I need a FA handle and i can get a FG. John Jankowski jjankows@vt.edu
From Lars (Tue Oct 19 02:03:54 1999 ):
Dave! - What you call the "AIS niche" has an official name: LENS TYPE SIGNAL NOTCH! It is the milled notch in the lens mount close to the LENS LOCKING INDENTATION of an AI-S coupled lens. It relays information on the nature of the aperture stop down action via the cameras LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN. AI-S, series E and AF lenses have a standardized linear aperture stop down action, AI and pre-AI lenses do not have this linear relation of APERTURE STOP DOWN LEVER and aperture. If a camera has a LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN it can sense the nature of the aperture action. When a lens with the LENS TYPE SIGNAL NOTCH is attached the spring loaded LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN will have room to stay out. The LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN will at first be pushed in but as the lens is turned and locked in the secured position the hollow made by the LENS TYPE SIGNAL NOTCH will allow the LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN to spring back out. A lens without the LENS TYPE SIGNAL NOTCH will keep the LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN pushed in. The linearity of the aperture stop down action has implications for reliability of shutter times in S and P modes. FG (1982) is the first Nikon to implement full automatic programmed exposure. It uses an instant stop down metering just before the mirror flips up but, after it has stopped down the lens to the desired aperture according to the light level and program. Even if the aperture does not exactly equal the desired one, it will still be able to give right exposure as the electrically controlled shutter time is simply adjusted accordingly before the mirror flips up and the shutter opens. FG cannot sense whether a lens has the standardized aperture action and will always do the full instant stop down (in P mode). FA (1983), F-301 (1985) and F501 (1986) will however shunt this process when they sense the standardized aperture action but will still do it as default if the LENS TYPE SIGNAL PIN is not released. The LENS TYPE SIGNAL NOTCH has nothing to do with focal length. It is exactly the same on any AI-S, series E or AF lens. Focal length is crudely indicated to FA, F-501 and F4 via the FOCAL LENGTH INDEXING RIDGE and LEVER but that is another story altogether.
From Lars (Tue Oct 19 01:48:40 1999 ):
Fred! Before you buy a macro lens or diopters consider trying extension rings. Since they don't have any glass there will be nothing to deteriorate the image. You might find inspiration @ http://www.csonline.net/unklbil/macro_adapter.htm
From Dave (Wed Oct 13 07:59:54 1999 ):
Hello everybody, Firstly thanks for the site. I am new to Nikons and photography and it has been really helpful. I have two questions. I want to fit a Beattie screen to an FA. I understand this can be 3 stops brighter than a standard focusing screen. Does this mean I will need to use exposure compensation (of 3 stops !). I have a Tamron 90mm f2.5 macro, with an adaptall 2 mount from a different source. It has the AIS niche, but doesn't the niche vary with the focal length of the lens? Did Tamron make different Adaptall 2 AIS mounts for different focal lengths? Will my FA think it has a different focal length lens on ?
From Fred Stewart (Mon Oct 11 22:42:42 1999 ):
Have been using the Nikon FA (black body) for the last 12 mths and like it alot.Bought it 2nd hand from a mate and it was in perfect condition. It came with its original 35 to 70mm lens which gives me sharp and crystal clear photos. I recently did some close-up photography with some borrowed close up lenses (Arrow brand)nos 1,2,&4 and the results were quite acceptable, but there is room for improvement and am thinking of Nikon`s very own close up lenses,which I`ve been told is very good. If any one has used them before with the FA and the above mentioned lens, I`d like to know your opinions. Am also considering a Macro lens. Any suggestions?
From A. J. Gilmore (Fri Oct 8 03:32:17 1999 ):
Have an excellent FA w/ MD15 motor drive, SB16B flash, SB15 flash, 50/1.4;35-200/3.5-4.5, 28/2.8, 105/2.5 Want to try my luck w/F100 AF system. Anyone interested in FA system?
From nigel (Fri Nov 26 04:32:06 1999 ):
So glad I found this site, had my Nikon FA since 1985. My mirror got stuck in the open position what should I do?
From Lars (Thu Nov 25 21:00:39 1999 ):
The reason why newer (AF and the MF F-601m) cameras won't do evuluative matrix metering with an AI-S lens is that they rely on electronic transfer of the maximum aperture via a lens CPU (in all AF and P type MF lenses). In FA the maximium apereture transfer is taken care of by the mechanical MAXIMUM APERTURE INDEXING POST and LEVER system. The electronical transfer system has the advantage that it can relay even variable maximum aperture (as in some zooms). The CPU is also used to relay info on focal length (and focusing distance in a D type AF). F4 is the last camera to have the mechanical as well as the electronical transfer system, and it will therefore allow matrix with AI and AI-S as well as AF lenses. For some mysterious reason F4 does not allow P and S modes with a non-CPU lens. With F5 you can use both non-evaluative metering systems (that is center weighted and spot) with a non-CPU lens. The top plate of FA is copperplated plastic - not metal! The copper plating is probable used for shoielding the electronics against speed light interference. With FA you have the coice of either matrix or center weighted metering in all exposure modes but M. In M only center weigted is possible (see bellow). There is no exp. lock in FA (also bellow!).
From Dio (Tue Nov 23 23:02:49 1999 ):
To Shawn: You are right, it is not an autofocus camera but what I meant was that you cannot use the programme modes or the matrix metering found in any nikon autofocus camera with an AIS or manual focus lens as per the ones you use on the FA. What this means is that, even if you buy a top of the range F5, You can only use the centre weighted metering and Aperture priority with your manual AIS lenses. Why is this important? Because it means you have to start buying autofocus lenses if you want to use a newer camera. Why? because the FA is in fact a much more sophisticated camera in terms of it's programmed modes than even the mighty F5!! Go into a shop and try your AIS lens on one and you will see what I mean. No there is no quality difference from chrome to Black although the Black coating has a tendency to 'Brass', i.e, wear off around the edges. The chrome finish is a more durable colour but this is only to do with paintwork not the quality of the metal. Yes, there is a depth of field preview. It is the lever on the right of the lens which you have to push forward all the way down.
From shawn (Tue Nov 23 07:48:58 1999 ):
Sorry but am I the only one here :') After doing some more reasearch, does the FA infact have no DOF, (Depth of Field) system? Also I was looking at some of the archives on this message board and noticed a question I have always pondered, " What is the quality difference between a Chrome FA and a Black FA? CIAO Shawn
From shawn (Tue Nov 23 06:05:54 1999 ):
Its me again! Does the FA have an exposure lock, for night photo- graphy? Can someone please explain to me the light metering system of the FA, and yes I did read the literature on the recommended pages. I noticed that in the previous messages/responses, the FA has to use a different light meter system depending on the exposure mode it is set on, is that true, and is it a hassle or easy to understand.
From shawn (Tue Nov 23 04:57:16 1999 ):
I appreciate all your guys help! :) However I did nto understand Dio's explination of the FA in regards to the lense systems. Am I under the impression that FA is an auto focus camera, Because from what I understood it is a manual/auto(programable)camera, not Auto focus. I do know that you can interchange the lenses between cameras but You cannot get auto focus with a non autofocus camera Like the nikon FA, correct thanks shawn
From Dio (Tue Nov 23 01:08:59 1999 ):
A few notes for fellow colleagues. I feel cheated by Nikon and other camera manufacturers in the way they push everyone to have the all new camera or lens regardless of quality and usefullness. It reminds me of the car industry as I am sure many will agree. Obviously, technology has to move on, quite rightly so but.....read on. I really like the FA and think it has a niche as an automated camera in the mould of the classic solid manual body with manual wind on features and battery saving manual rewind etc. However, after talking to Nikon, they admitted that the new autofocus lenses are inferior in construction (although not optically of course) and that the FA has a metering system way more complicated than even the current F70 for example. This is why you cannot, I repeat, cannot use a manual AIS lens with the matrix metering of any modern Nikon camera or shutter priority or any programme mode priority on an autofocus body. You can use all these features on the FA with a manual lens and you can still use the autofocus lenses with these features but with manual focusing of course. A nikon technicion admitted this to me last week. The reason? Because of the profit margins assiciated with constructing cheaper plastic lenses as opposed to the proper barrel construction of a manual and the way in which the circuitry would be even more complicated in one of the newer modern bodies. By the way, does anyone else find the LCD display a little hard to work with in certain lighting situations such as when pointing at quite bright light or very dark light?
From Lars (Mon Nov 22 21:21:02 1999 ):
Hi Shawn! - I recommend that you browse this boards for pro and cons on the FA if you havn't allready done so. FA is truly a masterpiece. Its AMP works well and you have a lot of options exposure mode vise. I tend to ignore P and S though (and then AI-S doesn't matter any longer). I find it annoying that AMP does not work in M, and that with a dedicated flash, the shutter is autimatically set to 250 and the meter is turned off. It would also have been nice with an exposure lock for the times when one chooses center weighted A mode. As for the acronyms refer to http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm I have no experience with Canon A-1, but I belive FA trumphs it by having a multi cell evaluative metering (AMP), TTL flash, and a living lens system (Canon FD is dead).
From shawn (Mon Nov 22 13:59:38 1999 ):
Hi, I am shopping for used 35 mm slr cameras. I have used Olympus all my life and loved them for there size and weight. I have recently purchased a Minolta autocord( dual lense reflex) camera. The reason I List this is for the mere point that I am re-emersing myself again into photography. However, I am interested in the Nikon bodies, because of their reputations as well as their availability of parts. I am extremely interested in The Nikon FA. I like this camera because of its available settings (Ap priority, Shutter Priority and all). I wanted to now from the Users of the FA what is it they like about it and what they dont like about it. Also if you could recomend any sites or buisnesses that are selling the FA( preferably respectible sites) to help me out. Also I was looking/ comparing the Nikon FA with the Canon A-1. what do you guys think about that. I have noticed in the nikon lense selections, I can choose between IC, AI, prong IC and AIS lenses. What is the acronyms stand for and do any of these work with the Nik FA? Also If you guys do know of FA's for sale and Need to know Where I am I live in Arizona. thank you for your help and responses!! Shawn
From Lars (Fri Nov 12 18:12:06 1999 ):
Don! - I dont know if you will be able to get a lens release button but the battery pack your are looking seems to be the DB-2 ANTI-COLD BATTERY HOLDER. There could be something wrong with your circuitry though.
From Lars (Sun Dec 12 07:18:30 1999 ):
Johan - keep it to cannibalize spares for other FA's! Shawn - my batteries usually last at leat a year. You should NOT have to set at a mechanical shutter when you leave it.
From Johan (Sat Dec 11 22:37:45 1999 ):
Hi,all My black FA har been in a drawer for two years now. I discovered that the then practically unused camera had a perfomance quirk that is really annoying. Sometimes, not even once every roll, the exposure mechanism fails, the resulting negative is heavily underexposed. And you never know when... The Nikon official technicians here in Sweden recognized the fault, it's said to be a common one and caused by dirt getting into mechanism for aperture value transfer. The repair is expensive (50 % of the typical price for an used FA in A+ condition) and the technicians said that they couldn't guarantee that the fault doesn't reappear, it's simply because it's a poor construction. So down the trashcan it went. Anyone heard about something similar? Greetings!
From Lou Torres (Sat Dec 11 22:24:04 1999 ):
Lars, I worked out a deal where I took the FA body with five days to change my mind and get the FM2N (too bad I couldn't afford both). The camera arrived yesterday and it is beautiful. I've checked it out all over and will shoot a couple of rolls of film this weekend to see how it works in all modes. It really is in "ex+" condition. My only concern is really over the servicing. I've read some posts where people can't get parts and especially with circuit board problems there are none available. I've also read that some of the early releases had this problem (circuit board) and in later models it was corrected. I'm going to give it a ride this weekend and see. Is there anywhere that I can check serial numbers to see when it was produced? Thanks, Lou
From shawn (Sat Dec 11 13:26:18 1999 ):
Hi all, I was wondering if any of you guys out there have had or is having any problem with battery drain from your nikon FA. I will give you guys my serial number 5700804. If this helps and you could lend me a hand in this problem that would be great. I dont know whats wrong I got supposedly got new batteries a few days ago, like two days ago. and I did not even take any pictures, all I did was wind it up a couple times and released the shutter. two days later i get some film and decided to squeeze a couple shots off, 2 hours later my batteries are dead. I was playing around with the metering system trying to figure it out but I was under the impression batteries last a little longer. How long do any of your cameras last If your going to ask if I set my camera to B, or M250, I normally do , but there is a possibility I didnt but I normally keep the film winder in the locked position. Anyway I would like to no whats going on. thank you shawn
From Lars (Thu Dec 9 18:57:57 1999 ):
Lou - I you browse this board carafully you will see that we also "love" our FAs. It a tough decision. I recommend getting both (I have). If you are a starter and wnat to get really into the basics I guess FM2 is the best option.
From Lou Torres (Thu Dec 9 11:37:03 1999 ):
I'd appreciate some input from the group. I have an opportunity to get either a Nikon FA or FM2N. The deal is pretty much the same. I've looked at some boards and people seem to love the FM2N and I don't find the same coverage on the FA. Perhaps it's because the FM2N is still being produced. Anyway, my question is if both cameras are in "ex+" condition which would I be better off getting. I would also be getting a Nikon 35-105 f3.5-4.5 and a Nikon 70-210 f4 lens (with either body). Thanks, Lou
From leofoo (Tue Dec 7 12:32:09 1999 ):
Good Points ! Some of the images in this site was from the FA camera that I have bought for ëre-orientationí when I created this site. The shop owner knew why I need this camera and I was only offered RM1.000-00 (RM3.80 to a Dollar) for the body (Ex+++). After completion of this personal project, I have disposed it off to one of my staff at another RM50-00 discount (He saw me how I have 'handled' the body during that period). The point is, dealers often used the current modern hightech bodies like the F90X, F-100, F4s or F5 to ensure prices of such used bodies seem 'logical and fair' when compared - this is no good for photography as a whole because I would not like to see the medium becomes a luxurious hobby and that could burry many potential hidden talents from the pool of schools, colleges and even from the majority casual shooters. Jus remember model to model, Nikon FA was the best-featured Mid-Range bodies as to the F-100 to the F5 or F90X to the F4s and how much would it costs a unit during those days...
From Kelvin (Tue Dec 7 08:57:24 1999 ):
Thanks Kim for your advice. It seems that the $500 FA is a bit expensive (chrome body without lens). Actually I think it's wise for every potential buyer to do more research before making decisions.
From Kim (Mon Dec 6 21:28:00 1999 ):
Kelvin~~ I bought an FA black body in 9 to 9+ condition at a camera swap meet. It came with a one year warranty from the store represented at the show and a 50mm Nikon E series lens. I have noticed black bodies tend to cost slightly more. I paid $345.00 for mine, however, I have seen the average price to be anywhere between $340.00 to about $450.00 in 9+ condition. You could look through "Shutterbug" mag or other photo magazines and sort of comparrison shop. I found that to be very helpful when I was looking for my FA. It also helped me to see a good deal when i saw it that day at the camera swap meet! Hope that helps!
From Kelvin (Mon Dec 6 18:54:06 1999 ):
Is $500 US a reasonable price for an FA in 9+ condition?
From Ahmet/Olay TV Turkey (Tue Dec 21 06:49:19 1999 ):
Bu makina ellerinde bulunduran kisiler degerini bilsinler. F3 de bile bununlan cekilen fotoraflari bulamazlar. Saticilar lütfen 05327925878
From Lars (Mon Dec 20 19:09:28 1999 ):
Terry, check this site on AF problems!
From Terry Brown (Mon Dec 20 04:01:42 1999 ):
I have used two FA's since 1984 and have been very pleased with both. A few months ago,I traded one in on an N70. I was so impressed with the autofocus on this camera that I decided to purchase an N90s as my primary camera. I will be using the N90s with the MF-26 multi-control data back. I am now wondering whether I will ever use the remaining FA again. Are there situations where the FA would be preferable to the others? During extreme weather conditions, perhaps? Is the FA any more weather resistant?
From jess (Sun Dec 19 02:05:24 1999 ):
just obtained a nikon FA in perfect condition *except* one of the shutter curtains is bent and letting in light. will repairs/replacement be completely impossible? help! [also if anyone's about to chuck one out.. please don't.. i may need parts!]

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