Nikon FE Series Models - Archived 201-250 Message Board/Guestbook

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Nikon FE Series Models - Archived 201-250 Message Board/Guestbook

From Jim Giron (Fri Jan 7 21:30:26 2000 ):
Hello, I have some questions here that maybe you can help me out on. 1. I just bought a used FE with serial number 3613400. Can you tell me when this was manufactured or how old the unit is. 2. A flash unit came with the camera and I'm having a hard time trying to figure out how to properly use it. Just in case you can give me some pointers on auto mode or if anyone has a manual for the unit. The flash unit is a NATIONAL PE-250S. Thanks a million and more power, Jim99
From David Fox (Tue Jan 4 02:07:53 2000 ):
I'm looking to purchase dedicated flash for my Nikon FE and a new Case (CF-7?) Please advise on suitable outlets. Thanks, Dave Fox
From Lars (Mon Jan 3 21:25:04 2000 ):
Lance - That was very interesting info. Spare syncro. terminal covers can be obtained from Nikon.
From Lance (Mon Jan 3 02:48:55 2000 ):
For those FE users that frequently has flash mis-firing problem. I had this happen to me and it took ages to find. The flash would work while testing it 98% of the time. Everytime I used it to take a photo, then the flash let me down at the critical moment. The answer was my finger was on the flash sync terminal or PC socket. Every time my finger tuched the open socket then my flash would not fire. My left hand tends to grasp the camera at that point. The PC cover has been long since missing when I brought the camera. Ha Ha Lance...
From Marek J. (Sun Jan 2 16:03:04 2000 ):
I have Nikon FE; I love my camera but I have some problems with light meter system, pointer (inside viewfinder) doesn't work reasonable, it stops on the one time and doesn't want to change when light changes or jumps without sense showing bed time. Sometimes it works but only when long times (8-1sek) are set. I changed batteries but problem still exist. What could be a reason? Is it possible to repair it myself? Where can I find (www) more technical information about Nikon FE? How many percent (%) of light does meter (in old FE) measure from the center(12mm) circle? 60%, 70%, 80% or more? What is durability and quality of new Nikon FM2n comparing to old FM cameras? Isn't the fast (1/4000sek) shutter less durable than slower one in old cameras? I think in new FM2n its made from ALU not tittanium. Thank You for answer (and I am sorry for poor English) Marek J.
From Alan Wilson (Sat Jan 1 05:32:00 2000 ):
I have two questions for the FE2 experts. Is rear curtain sync possible? What adapter do I need for off the camera flash using a sunpak 433d? Thanks,I bought the FE2 used, I love this camera!!
From Lars (Tue Dec 28 23:19:32 1999 ):
John! - FE will accept almost all Nikkors and Nikon Series E lenses due to its retractable Meter Coupling Lever (as stated bellow, answer to Christine). Excluded is a few wideangles that requires MLU due to protruding rear elements.
From David Alba (Sun Jan 30 21:40:03 2000 ):
I'm planning on purchasing a FE-10 because I need the multiple expousure ability it has. Can I make 3 or 4 exposures on the same negative frame and will the FE-10 allow these these multiple exposures be recorded exactly on the same frame?
From Jwoods (Sat Jan 29 13:50:30 2000 ):
# Jim #: SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera allows direct viewing through the lens. The main reflex mirror reflect image through the lens to the viewfinder for you to focus, compose and take a picture - during which there will be momentarily black out during the process (Mirror flip up to let light passing through to the film when the shutter opens). In the case of SLR camera that has secondary mirror behind the main reflex mirror (Like Nikon F3 or any AF bodies), some of the light (In the region of 5-10%) will be diverted to the secondary mirror for metering prior to actual exposure. Nikon FE metering cells are near the eyepiece and does not has such 'light loss' - but rather due to dispersion of light through the mirror, the silvered pentaprism and through focusing screen before reaching the eyepiece. Earlier screens for Nikon FE were mainly plastic has has a weaker light dispersion properties. The split image darkening is a sign of inadequate light being transmitted through the reflex mirror and viewfinder prism due to the source of the maximum aperture that allows light passes through the lens (All silvered to help transmitting more light to the eyepiece - but has nothing to do with exposure). You may not be experiencing this phenomenon in faster lenses such as your standard 50mm lens that may have a relatively fast f2.0, 1.8. f1.4 or even f1.2, but generally since zoom lenses have smaller maximum aperture and this could cause the split image darkening and making focusing very uncomfortable. Anyway, to improve this situation (Not expecting you to change to a new 80-200 f2.8 ED Zoom lens - you can either: 1) change the focusing screen to a newer type K which is brighter than earlier version (But some for of exposure compensation will be required) OR use type B (No split image) or E (Grid type). Again, you can use newer B2 and E2 with compensation. This site has an excellent section touching on the same topic with good illustration to help you making such decision, see: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm
From Jim (Sat Jan 29 07:01:52 2000 ):
I have an FE with type K focusing screen. When I use the FE with a 70-210mm lens, the bottom half of the split-image focusing circle is always very dark to completely black, which makes it very hard to line up with the top half for correct focusing. Any idea why this happens? I know it's not the camera, since it works perfectly with my 50mm lens.
From Karen (Tue Jan 25 00:24:15 2000 ):
Michael: The FE takes two 1.5v silver oxide button batteries (S-76 or equivalent). Apparently the silver oxide ones are preferred over the alkaline or lithium varieties. Go to http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000WDs for a discussion on this topic (FM and FE cameras). Enjoy!
From Sami (Mon Jan 24 20:08:46 2000 ):
I have just bought an used FE2, but I already have a problem with it. Otherwise the camera functions OK, but once it did not release the mirror after exposure (mirror was up and shutter open). As I turned the shutter speed dial from A to 4000, mirror was released and shutter closed immediately (before I had time to turn dial more to reach M250 or try to press shutter release button). When the mirror was up and shutter open (of course it was not a long exposure), the film advance lever was stuck and did not move either way. Is this a sign of a serious camera malfunction, or is there a possibility that I did something wrong? I haven't yet finished my first film roll with this camera, so also that is possible... If it is not my error, could it be due to e.g. low battery or similar "not serious" thing? Problem has not (yet) occurred anymore, and the camera seems to be functining OK. If there is something seriously wrong, do you have any estimate of the potential repair costs? TIA!
From Michael Lawrence (Sun Jan 23 10:02:30 2000 ):
Does anyone know the correct battery for my FE. The manual only states that it be 1.5 v., but there are alot of those sizes out there. Thanks.
From Thomas Bieszk (Sun Jan 23 02:59:26 2000 ):
I own 3 Nikon FE bodys, 3MD-12 motor drives, 28/F2.8, 35/F2.8, 50/F1.4 85/F2, 105/F2.5, 135/F3.5, 200/F4, 300/F4.5, 400/F5.6, 500/F8Mirror Nikkor lenses and a host of nikon products. I have shot over 150 weddings countless sporting events, business meetings, etc. And I never had a breakdown, I highly recommend buying the FE, as you can see why.
From Jwoods (Mon Jan 17 12:10:45 2000 ):
#Haz#: IF you want a FE model that supports TTL flash, the FE-2 should be the correct model (Neither the FE-10 has TTL, like the FE, it offers only Automatic flash and manual flash control.). The FG and the Nikon FA also support TTL flash exposure control with added benefits of Program (FG & FA)and Shutter Priority AE (for FA) other than the Aperture Priority AE and manual exposure control.
From Muzzammil Sadiq (Thu Jan 13 13:12:55 2000 ):
Please let me know where I can buy a new Nikon FE 10 and how much it would cost. Any websites for prices and configurations would also be most appreciated.
From Marc Shain (Wed Jan 12 12:30:09 2000 ):
I have a black bodied FE in good condition but the flash sync (125)is messed up and needs to be repaired. I live in the New York vacinity and considering repairing it. Is it worth it?
From Maxime Normand (Fri Feb 11 09:02:32 2000 ):
Is it possible to buy a fe10 but without the 35-70mm lens that is in kit? I want to buy a 50mm f/1.4 instead.
From Jorge Chang (Mon Feb 7 09:45:28 2000 ):
Guys, thanks a lot for the advice from everyone. I have just won an auction on Ebay. I guess I had settled for an FE-2 after all.
From greg (Mon Feb 7 07:15:03 2000 ):
I have just bought a used FE and would like to hear comments about any repairs problems this camera usually has.
From Karen (Fri Feb 4 12:17:57 2000 ):
Jorge, here's another good link that compares the two: http://webtravel.org/photo/nikon/nikon-fe.html
From Lars (Thu Feb 3 18:17:49 2000 ):
Jorge! - FE: +retractable METER COUPLING LEVER to allow pre-AI lenses. +less plastic. -dimmer viewer (old screens). -slower max speed (incl. syncro). FE2: ++TTL flash, +newer, -no pre-AI. Check the links to the extensive pages on these two models bellow!
From Jorge Chang (Thu Feb 3 10:19:55 2000 ):
Hi guys, I am in the middle of buying a second hand manual SLR by Nikon (since I have some Nikon lens already). I am deciding whether I should get the FM, FM2, FE or FE2. What are some of the differences between FE and FE2 besides the maximum shutter speed (1/2000 in FE2, 1/1000 in FE)? FE2 is probably better than FE because it is a bit more expensive, but just want to know what the trade offs are. Which one would you guys recommend and why? I know my question is fairly vague and is probably gonna start a war here.. but just wanna know. Thanks.
From Diethelm Landgrebe (Wed Feb 2 00:54:50 2000 ):
how much should i pay for a (new) 35-70 Zoom (3.5-4.8)which is usally delivered with th FE/FM-10?
From Lars (Mon Jan 31 21:30:06 2000 ):
I will have to disagree with Mr. J Woods. Split image darkening is to my experience not caused by lack of light but solely due to small maximum apertures. The split image does not darken in even the darkest scene when using a fast lens (as an 50/1.4). If however even a fast lens is stopped down, split image darkening will soon arise even in the brightest scene (this is easily demonstrated). I am also not aware that the old screens should be more prone to split image darkening and I will question this. I agree in the recommendation of either E or B type screen to remedy this nuisance.
From Lars (Mon Jan 31 21:16:26 2000 ):
Alba - multi exposure (of FE-10) is done by engaging the little lever by the advance arm. This lever deactivates the forward winding but allows the shutter to be cocked. Just pull back this lever before every exposure you want to add. Simple as that!
From David Alba (Mon Jan 31 11:40:06 2000 ):
Can anyone E-mail me explain how the FE-10 multi-exposure works, step by step?
From Maintainer of PIM (Thu Mar 2 13:17:12 2000 ):
MC Lau, a new contributing writer and a good friend of mine has just bought a new "Millennium 2000 - Year of the Dragon" Nikon FM2n, here is a first hand review by him !
From T. Millan (Sat Feb 26 16:20:05 2000 ):
I need to find replacement shutter for FE.
From Teo Millan (Sat Feb 26 16:17:36 2000 ):
I need to find replacement shutter for F. Offical service in Spain is out of stock and claims the line has been discontinued.
From Roch (Fri Feb 25 07:35:55 2000 ):
Does anyone know the availability of a shutter assembly for the FE? Any fixes besides replacement?
From JWoods (Thu Feb 24 15:20:47 2000 ):
#MARQUIS#, you can use this section for reference: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/flash/sb1tosb21/index.htm Most of the Non-AF speedlights produced by Nikon were featured in quite a detail form. The first TTL flash with an ISO-type mounting foot was SB-15 and also the SB-16Bwhich is still available as new in Nikon product catalogue; actually, many of the current AF flash can also be used in TTL mode with the FE-2. #eduardo#: FE series bodies have electronic shutter which means it needs battery to power most of the camera functions; FM series models are mechanical cameras, you will have to adjust everything yourself. The battery in the FM bodies is only used to power the metering function, the camera will still operate even without any battery inside the camera.
From MARQUIS BRADETTE (Tue Feb 22 04:53:59 2000 ):
I have a FE2 and want to use its TTL capabilities for fill-flash. Any suggestions? Marquis
From eduardo (Sun Feb 20 21:53:01 2000 ):
Nikon Fm2 differncies into Fe2 & fm2
From ckurton (Sat Feb 19 16:15:39 2000 ):
Can anyone tell me any sites on the web where I can see a technical manual for an FE as I would like to attempt to fix my FE body. Camera repairers in London want to charge me more than the camera is worth to fix it!
From Steve (Thu Feb 17 00:18:40 2000 ):
I recently replaced the focusing screen on my FE2. I guess that narrow strip of foam was old because a center section of it (about 1/8 inch) broke away. So removed that short piece. Is this a problem? Should I replace the entire foam strip? What does it do anyway? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
From Joe Striegler (Sat Feb 12 03:41:14 2000 ):
Can anyone tell me, if there exists a web site or hard copy source, where the date of manufacture of a FE2 can be traced through its serial nunber? I need to know what year 24004XX was made. Thanks.
From Ray Brungard (Tue Mar 21 02:43:08 2000 ):
Does anyone know where I might locate a schematic of the Nikon FE? My daughter wound the film backwards causing the winding mechanism to "unscrew". This caused three parts to come out; a washer, a clip, and a spring (the spring is now lost). A schematic might help me put them back on. Also, where do I buy a spring?
From Sami (Sun Mar 19 23:23:34 2000 ):
Nikon FE2 has center-weighted metering, but what does that exactly mean/what is the actual ratio? Is it 80/20 or something else (perhaps even 60/40?).
From Joe Striegler (Wed Mar 15 14:43:34 2000 ):
Still looking for a site or book that lists the manufacturing schedule for the FE2. I have found a place online that lists dates of manufacture for most Nikkor lenses if anyone's interested.
From Lars (Tue Mar 14 20:36:03 2000 ):
EM (and FG-20) will let SB-E (and SB-19) know what aperture an AI coupled lens is set at. SB-E (and SB-19) uses this for automic choice of AUTO setting. The info is relayed via the third contacts.
From Rich (Tue Mar 14 02:02:54 2000 ):
Hello Speedlight wizards. I have just bought an SB-E speedlight for my Nikon FE. The switch wants to go one way for an FE or FM camera and another direction for an EM. The tables on the back ask for eg f5.6 at 10ft (100ASA) for all cameras; so what's the difference? Also what does that third terminal do on the SB-E hotshoe link?
From Jim Gilmore (Mon Mar 13 05:35:21 2000 ):
I was just wondering if there is an accessory kit to convert the FE2 to a digital camera. It seems that this would be a practical and logical step to upgrade all of those FE2 cameras out there that are collecting dust. If anyone knows of anything, let me know. It would give me a logical excuse to justify purchasing another FE-2 Body.
From Drew Unger (Thu Mar 9 06:37:42 2000 ):
I have an FE and an FE-2. I own mostly Nikkor D lenses and use a vivitar 283 fo fill light for portraiture. I recently killed my 283. Instead of paying to get it fixed like I usually do, I decided to try to take advantage of the TTL flash metering system. I upgraded to an SB-24 that I am currently borrowing from work. I know I have to zoom the flashhead manually and I can set the flash ISO/ASA manually. My questions are as follows: Do I also input my camera aperture to the sb-24? Can I use the SB-24's exposure compensation features todial in say -2/3 EV? Or is the exposure comensation not supported with my older body. I love the FE2-but i'd also like to experiment with more advanced flash technique. Do I need to get a newer body or an older flash to fully realize TTL flash metering with my FE2?
From GenHolst (Wed Mar 8 10:43:26 2000 ):
Film back for poloroid print ? Check here for a brief but good introduction and click to go NPC site: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/databack/mf10.htm#npc It is damn expensive and I am wondering does it actually worth the investment. The same goes for the US 100 + a piece Beattie Interscreen by Fresnel Optic: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm
From Frank M. Sully, Jr. (Wed Mar 8 06:13:33 2000 ):
I'm interested to know if there is a Polaroid or a Digital Image back in existance for an FE or FE2 body!!
From George Tanabe (Fri Mar 3 19:45:16 2000 ):
Although my FE has a new battery, it is acting as if there is no battery: M90 and B work the shutter, but at other speeds the mirror locks up and the shutter does not trip. Any suggestions about what might be wrong and how to fix this?
From Yuki Fujita (Fri Apr 14 10:31:12 2000 ):
Does anyone know if TTL function of SB23 flash works in FE2? I am looking for a less expensive flash unit with TTL for my FE2. Thanks,
From Morris Gallimore (Tue Apr 11 02:23:54 2000 ):
Cleaning the viewing screen I have just purchased a used FE2. I am satisfied with everything about the camera apart from the viewing screen which is very dusty. Who could tell me how easy it is to clean the viewing screen from dust. Should this be something that I should have done by an experienced company?
From Dave Bennett (Sat Apr 8 05:04:32 2000 ):
I have just bought a second hand FE body without an instruction book. I thought I knew enough about the camera but this site has added a lot to my knowledge. I would like to know if anyone could tell me how I could find out when my FE was made. Its serial number is 3448506. Thanks in anticipation
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