Nikon FM Series - Archived 501-550 Message Board/Guestbook

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Nikon FM Series - Archived 501-550 Message Board/Guestbook

From Lars (Tue Jun 29 02:10:17 1999 ):
Ann - don't sell it! Keep it as a power and CPU independent backup (the zoom is not glued onto it is it?). Save it for your grand grand grand children. See Stephen Gandy's notes on mechanical cameras @ http://cameraquest.com/nikonslr.htm /Kind regards, Lars
From Ann R. Mortimore (Tue Jun 29 00:08:03 1999 ):
Hi, I have a 20 year old Nikon FM with a Nikon zoom lens that is in the 35-89 range. I also have the 6006 which I love an use all the time. Someone whats to buy the FM but I have no idea of it worth. Can you give me some idea of a fair price to charge. Thanks Ann
From Wtin Jalanugraha (Sun Jun 27 01:12:42 1999 ):
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/nav/takingPics.shtml "Guide to Better Pictures. Whether your interest in photography lies in using the proper equipment, technique, film, lighting, or composition and close-ups, we've got it all.
From Panggih Darmana, SE (Fri Jun 25 20:33:19 1999 ):
I bought a Nikon FM 10 for 6 month. As a beginner I need more Information about photography. Unfortunetaly, there is no book store sell books in photography topics. Would you help me to inform how can I get the guidance book for photograpy ? If I must buy it , Where do I buy it or I can get it free from you. My Adress is : Panggih Darmana, PT. Jati Dharma Indah Plywood Industries Batugong ,Passo ,Ambon, Maluku Indonesia. Phone Number 62 911 361354. Thanks for your kind attention. Regards Panggih Darmana
From Seet (Sun Jul 18 00:07:02 1999 ):
I have a FM2!!! Can anyone pls recommend mi any flash that is good to use wif it??? Moreover any long len to go wif it??? Thank u....
From Anders (Sat Jul 17 14:15:04 1999 ):
I´m wondering how much I should pay for:FM-house, MD-12, 50mm-1.8-, 28mm-2.8-, 100mm-2.8 Nikon E-series and a Tokoina teleconverter x2? One hundred film roles have been taken with the camera.
From Dan Bruno (Wed Jul 14 14:20:04 1999 ):
I am in the market to buy a "manual everything" camera for a young aspiring photographer. I was considering a FM10 or FM2N since most other camera manufacturers are off in digital La-La-land. Can anyone tell if the advantage of the FM2N is actually justified in the difference of cost compared to a FM10? Is it really worth that much more money? I have read reports about "cheap parts" and I am kinda leery about shelling out the $$$ for 1)A stripped down model FM2N or 2) a fully loaded FM10. I only have enough money for either scenario and I am uncertain which direction is better. Any help is much appreciated.
From Christian Becker (Sun Jul 11 21:11:44 1999 ):
Many parts on the FM have been replaced with plastic parts on the FM2n. Would a good repairman be able to transplant the DOF lever and the Back safety lock from an FM onto my FM2n? I don't question the camera's reliability, but for me the DOF lever seems very questionable (same holds true for the prism housing front and the front plate surrounding the mount).
From Lars (Sun Jul 11 19:21:55 1999 ):
Martin! - None of the FM series cameras has TTL OTF flash metering. for specifications on FM2 see links @ http://www.ferrario.com/nikon/default.htm
From Martin Picard (Sun Jul 11 03:41:37 1999 ):
A simple question... Is the Nikon FM2n TTL flash compatible???? Thank you. Martin
From Lars (Sun Jul 11 02:46:19 1999 ):
Hi Chris - Congratulations on your FM2. You really do not need a manual. You will get very far with the info given at the FM site (the differences btw FM and FM2 is listed earlier on this board! - page 4). If you insist there is a pointer where to get manuals - also on this board (page 2)!
From Dean (Sat Jul 10 06:37:53 1999 ):
Hi Howard. I recently purchased my FM2N and started looking for lenses. At present, I only have one, the AF 50/1.8. This is supposed to be good and, as you mentioned, AF lenses can be had cheaper than MF. Although a beginner, I have found this to handle very well on the end of my FM2. The focusing ring is a reasonable size and is quick and easy to operate, though lacking the feel of a MF lens.
From Chris Harrod (Fri Jul 9 16:55:07 1999 ):
I have recently purcahsed a second hand FM2, however it did not come with an instruction manual. If anyone knows where I can get one or has one they can email me I would be greatly appreciative. Any extra info on the FM2 would be useful also.
From Lars (Fri Jul 9 02:57:09 1999 ):
Hi Howard - the range of AF Nikkors is certainly bigger now than the MF (the MF fisheyes and 300 mm's was recently discontinued) and surely AF lenses have the advantage that if you one day should get an AF camera you have all feature ready available. The other way (manual lenses on AF bodies) will also work however (see Stephen Gandy's note on MAF's and links @ http://www.cameraquest.com/nikonslr.htm). In my opinion many AF lenses is lacking the "Nikon feel". AF lenses have also come in different versions or generations. Disregarding the very first F3AF lenses there is the early type with very slim plastic focus ring at the rim of the lens, then there was a version with slightly broader rubber fucus ring (but still not as the MF), then the AF-D came with a electronic info transfer on distance for use with flash (the pro lenses (fast, $$) now had almost as good focussing rings as the MFs), some tele lenses then came in AF-I versions with internal motors and the latest is the AF-S with a silent wave (Canon USM style) coreless internal motor. Roland Vink told me about these. He has a nice list of all Nikkors ever produced @ http://home.ait.ac.nz/staff/rvink/photo.html
From Lars (Sun Jul 25 20:05:04 1999 ):
Sergio - here is more info on FM2/FM2n: http://www.picture-perfect.net/fm2review.shtml
From Lars (Sat Jul 24 20:05:01 1999 ):
Sergio! - The diference between FM2 and FM2n has to do with the shutter. Try take a look at http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/honeycomb/index.htm
From Sergio (Sat Jul 24 02:32:27 1999 ):
WHat is the dang diffrence between the FM2 and FM2n????? Howard you should know the answer to this question...Ive been trying to find out for an hour now on this thing. Please reply soon...thanx
From Howard Passman (Thu Jul 22 02:00:44 1999 ):
Hello everyone, As promised I am updating you on the saga of having the shutter/meter lock bypassed on my FM2N. For those just tuning in, my only real dislike on my FM2N was that you couldn't trip the shutter (when cocked) if the film advance lever was pushed all of the way in. Well, that happens to be the most comfortable place for it when the camera is crammed against my forehead. So I took it to a camera shop in D.C. to have it bypassed. I am pleased to say it was a success ! Some people were worried that the shutter button might get bumped alot and run down the battery by turning on the meter. This is not a problem since the meter still doesn't turn on unless the lever is out. Anyway, for anyone interested it worked fine. If you need any info I'm always glad to share.
From Sergio (Wed Jul 21 02:09:39 1999 ):
Hi Everyone, I have been in the market for a FM series camera but I have noticed that all of them have (pluse ,minus) metering. Is there a Nikon camerathat has a lever indicator and still keeps a small body like the FM? Oh, I have been pricing them around houston camera shops and a all black body FM is running around #400.oo Is this a good price? Well, keep up the good work and anyone serious about buying a good camera dont look at the flimsy Nikon FM10 because my opinion is that they made them just to make money.
From Thomas Young (Tue Jul 20 05:38:55 1999 ):
I'm looking for a case for my FM. Does anyone know where I might find one? Thanks.
From Howard Passman (Mon Jul 19 18:28:31 1999 ):
Good Morning everyone, Can anyone help me get a manual for a Metz 45CT-4 flash. I picked up a used one and would like to see if the manual has any tidbits that are not obvious. My e-mail address is h.passman@erols.com In case your browser works as well as mine. Thanks, Howard
From Howard Passman (Mon Jul 19 18:24:06 1999 ):
Good Morning Dan, I don't know if you got an answer to your question and if you did, sorry, here's another. I after many years absence wanted to get a decent camera and didn't like what I was seeing. So I set out to find a sturdy, fully manual 35mm camera. I didn't feel the FM-10 would take any abuse at all and let's face it, sometimes you can't help but "hurt the ones you love." Anyway, I decided on the FM2N and have been pretty happy with one exception. It may not bother others but I do not like having to advance the film advance lever the 15 degrees in order to turn on the meter and unlock the shutter release. To remedy this I took it to Moras camera here in D.C. to have it bypassed. I won't get it back until tomorrow and I promised Lars I would let him know how the "surgery" went. I will post it here for anyone interested. The other way to get around the lock is to use a motor drive which also has the advantage of never having to remove the camera from your face to advance the film but it does make it a fair amount heavier. The only other feature I didn't especially like about the camera is something that is actually better than what I want and I'm not sure any camera has it now..a match needle meter. I'm an old analog guy (although I like CDs) I like analog meters cause I can always sense where they are coming from and where they are going to. I think the FM2N is a sturdy well laid out camera. Hope this helps some. Have a great day, Howard
From Armando (Mon Jul 19 10:27:59 1999 ):
I have an FM camera. My photography professor told me that to get the right ecpsure I had to measure the light using either an 18% gray card or my hand. Using my hand he indicated that I should close the aperture until the light meter indicates underexposure on the image of my hand. Is this really necessary or should I simply follow the camera's indications as this site suggests?
From Chuck Hoffhine (Mon Jul 19 09:46:39 1999 ):
Great message board and a lot of help!! I was pondering buying either a new FM-10, a used FE-2 or an used FM. The purchase is on the heels of the death of my 27 yr. old Honeywell Spotmatic. The chrome FM is about a 9 for $250. The black FM-2 a 9+ (or even 9++ ?)for $325. I am looking for ruggedness and fixability. Forget the FM-10. Do you think the FM is that much more rugged than the FE-2? I do like the meter needle, the higher and lower shutter speeds and the auto. feature of the FE-2 but I am willing to sacrifice that for a sturdier camera. I do a bit of hiking, climbing, traveling and have the thing around water alot. From that brief description what do you think might be best. Thanks again for your good work. I hope the Nikon people read the site. -Ch
From Linus (Tue Aug 3 14:08:55 1999 ):
Yahoo!! Just got my first set of prints with the FM2 & 50/1.8 AIS combi back. Everything seems to be working fine and the meter looks alright for prints - now to try it with slides. BTW, anyone got any favourite lens that they'd recommend to me? I prefer MF, AI or AIS doesn't matter. Currently I only have the 50 so I should be looking at a 24 or 28, a 105 and maybe the 200/4. Any comments on these? Cheers
From Linus (Tue Aug 3 08:47:18 1999 ):
Hi Lars, Howard, thanks for the help. Lars that link to the screen changing instructions on this site was really helpful. I managed to open up the FM2 and clear out all the gunk that accumulated there. My viewfinder is now crystal clear! And I saved the S$30 for a new screen too. Looks like I gotta hunt around this site a little more....there seems to be a wealth of info here although it's a little hard to find. I must say that the FM2 has rekindled my flagging interest in photography. Somehow, blazing around on all-auto really stifled me. Now with my FM2 I'm beginning to enjoy taking pics again. Cheers guys Linus (a Canon EOS user who is very happy with his FM2n and 50/1.8 AIS)
From Howard Passman (Mon Aug 2 17:58:57 1999 ):
Good Morning Lars and Linus. My serial number on my FM2N starts with N8 and it has an aluminum shutter. I did purchase it new from a place in New York. Sounds like Linus solved his problem. It's a bad feeling when you're not sure about a purchase like that. Have a good day. Howard
From Lars (Mon Aug 2 15:24:45 1999 ):
Hi Linus - Oh yes I come here a lot! Dirty screen is not a general problem for FM2, the former owner could have dropped it in the floor.. It is no big deal to change the focus screen yourself with the special tweezers that comes with a new screen. If you just want to clean it and do not have the tweezers it could get a bit tricky. For advise on cleaning see http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm If you decide to change it consider the E2 (with cross hair pattern). It is excellent for assisting compostion and securing horizontal horizons...!
From Linus (Sun Aug 1 21:12:40 1999 ):
Hi Lars, so you come here too! Good to hear from you. You're right....one of the sites I got the serial no. info from was the one you mentioned. I've since rejected the N7xxxxx serial numbered FM2n with Ti shutter for a newer N8xxxxx model. Got it second hand but in almost mint condition. Only problem is, the focussing screen is very dusty. I've tried using a blower on it but the dust seems to be "under" the screen. This doesn't affect picture taking at all but it does irritate me....so I might send it in for cleaning/replacment. Any idea how much that will cost and is this a recurring problem with the FM2? Cheers Linus
From Lars (Sat Jul 31 23:43:52 1999 ):
Hi Howard & Linus! Howard - I think Linus have browsed a bit already but I wonder from where he got the info on serial numbers and shutters and their inter-relation. @ http://www.picture-perfect.net/fm2review.shtml it is claimed that the early version of FM2N (with titanium shutter) had serial numbers 7xxxxxx (note NO "N") and that the latest version of FM2N (with aluminum shutter) has serials N 8xxxxxx. My FM2N has serial nummber N 7598772 (a serial number that should not exist acording to the mentioned site) AND the aluminum shutter. I bought the camera second hand so it could theoretically have been modified (given new shutter). How about yours Howard? Did you get it first hand? and was the serial N 7xxxxxx?
From Howard Passman (Sat Jul 31 03:38:44 1999 ):
Hi Lars, Thanks for passing Linus's info. For some reason I have a hard time sending mail to you so I am saying thanks here. Have a great weekend and be thankful you're not in sweltering Maryland,USA. Take care, Howard
From Howard Passman (Sat Jul 31 02:57:47 1999 ):
Good Day Linus, I believe all FM2Ns made since 1989 have had the aluminum shutter blades as opposed to the titanium. It also appears that the blades were available as an update repair for the earlier models. Here are three references that may help: http://www.digitalbooks.de/nikon/comp4.htm http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/honeycomb/improve.htm http://www.ferrario.com/nikon/default.htm I'm pretty sure my FM2N serial number starts with N7 and that it has aluminum blades. I'll verify the serial number for you and let you know. In the meantime these sites may help you. Have a good one. Howard
From Linus (Thu Jul 29 15:02:16 1999 ):
Hello people, I need your help. I'm about to purchase a used FM2n. It's serial number begins with N7xxxxx and it has the horizontal Aluminum shutter blades. Am I right to say that the original honeycomb titanium shutter on this particular unit has been replaced by an aluminum one? I've been searching the web and as far as I can tell, Nikon produced all FM2n's with serial numbers N7xxxx with Ti shutters and only those with serial nos. N8xxxx had Al shutter blades. Am I right? I'm trying to find out if this unit had been damaged and subsequently repaired. Thanks!!!!
From Howard Passman (Mon Jul 26 18:05:59 1999 ):
Good Morning Sergio, I believe the difference between the FM-2 and the "N" is mostly the material the shutter is made from. I believe the FM-2 was titanium and the "n" is aluminum. The site where Lars sent you is going to be difinitive for you. I also seem to remember that the sync speed for flash is different between the two. The FM-2N is @1/250 and the FM-2 @1/200th. Other than that I don't know of any differences. Have a great day !!!
From Linus (Thu Aug 5 14:22:15 1999 ):
MC Lau, when you say the zoom creep of the 75-150 is easily adjusted, what do you mean? Do you do it yourself? I asked around the repair shops in Singapore and most of the guys told me that that fault was not repairable. Apparently the bushing is made of plastic and once it wears out, the barrel starts to creep. IF you have a secret way to correct this, please share it with me 'cos there're a couple of these lenses with clean glass just sitting on the shelves 'cos no one knows how to fix them.
From Linus (Thu Aug 5 07:57:06 1999 ):
Lars - you sound like my kind of guys, Nikon primes all the way. MC Lau - thanks for the very detailed info on the 75-150. It seems more suitable for protraiture rather than as a general lens. Maybe I'll stick to primes like the 105/2.5 or 105/2.8 Micro and the 200/4. I'm thinking of a general travelling/walk around outfit like 24/2.8, 50,1.8, 105/2.8m and 200/4 or maybe an 80-200/4 or 4.5 to replace the latter 2. Any comments?? I do very little protraits so soft lenses with good bokeh are not on the top of my list.
From MC Lau (Thu Aug 5 00:44:32 1999 ):
Hi Linus! I have the 75-150 f3.5 E lens since it first appeared in the market back in the early eighties. It is the only E series lens that I have and still own. The construction of this lens is obviously less robust than the Nikkor series of the same era, but not any worse than the various consumer lens being put into the market by Nikon these days. It was known to have the zoom creep problem which can be easily adjusted. Optically, it is very capable but don't expect it to be in the league of the current premium lens such as the 80-200 f2.8,or the 105f2.8 macro. It was and still is my favorite portrait lens because of its focal length. With a maximum working distance of 16 to 18 feet in the studio, you are able to take a full length shoot and all the way to a tight head shoot. The sharpness of the lens is more than adequate for most potrait application up to 12x18" enlargemnet when closed down to f8. It is a bit soft at f4 and f5.6, but it gives very pleasant bokeh in the background. This is very important and desirable for outdoor shoots. And the softness at the larger aperture may help in hiding some of the imperfections of your model. Colour rendition is very similar to the Nikkor 135 f3.5 AI lens of the same era. Very pleasant. Contrast is about average, again ideal for portrait. Some how, I don't find this lens suitable for black and white photogrphy. (probably beacuse of the contrast.) It is very affordable in the pre-owned market. Highly recommended. Hey Leonard, what else can you ask for a lens at this price?
From Lars (Wed Aug 4 22:59:52 1999 ):
Linus - No I have never used the E 75-150/3.5 nor any other Nikon E. I stick to primes but will have to be careful not getting tempted by the expected flooding with AF 80-200/2.8 as people upgrade to the new AF-S version.
From Linus (Wed Aug 4 21:39:14 1999 ):
Hi Lars, just been to Leonard's lens page. Not bad....although I was hoping for a little more meat. Anyway, I was offered a 75-150/3.5 Nikon Series E lens today. Leonard doesn't seem too excited by this lens although some others have been a little more enthusiastic. What about you.....have you used this before? I'm actually looking for primes but if this zoom is good value for money, I might consider it. Cheers
From Lars (Wed Aug 4 16:13:13 1999 ):
Linus - good to hear your news on the screen cleaning front. Yes you should browse arround here. Leonard does a splendid job keeping and updating this extensive site. It is not always easy to find stuff but when you do the happier you get, as Howard put it - you gotta work for it! As for legendary lenses much have happened since the AF revolution at Nikon. Zooms most of all AF have become dominating. Many AF lenses have now taken over from the old (MF) legends (wich are sadly on their way out - heavy discontinuing lately!!). Leonard has a page on many of the legends as well as some the "newcomers" @ http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/speciallenses/index.htm. All the best!
From Howard Passman (Wed Aug 4 01:07:30 1999 ):
Hi Linus, There is a book by B Moose Peterson called "NIKON" something or other ( I keep telling you guys I have no memory left). It's a pretty common book with a white cover. He seems to be objective but I have nothing to base that assumption on. He does say if he believes it's a good or bad or "legendary." It seems straight up and I picked it up at Barnes & Nobels Book store. Taking out the objectivity it has alot of hard data that's helpful. Hope you can lay your hands on one...Have a great day, Howard
From Linus (Tue Aug 3 22:20:09 1999 ):
Hi Howard,the purist in me wants primes only and Nikkor primes at that! I know there are quite a few bargains to be had on the secondhand market.....was just wondering which are the "legendary" lenses. Will surf on down to the site you mentioned for a look see. I will be shooting mostly landscapes, portraits and maybe macros with my FM2. I've reserve sports and action pics for my EOS and zoom lenses. Cheers
From SteveL (Tue Aug 3 22:20:03 1999 ):
I'll throw in my 2 cents on the subject of lenses.If your goal is maximum sharpness,buy only fixed Nikkor lenses.If you shoot snapshots and web page pix ,use that garage sale zoom lens. When it comes to sharp slides and blow-ups,even Nikkor zooms don't compare to fixed focal length lenses.I shoot professionally 35mm stuff that is normally shot on med. format.The only way to get the results is with slow film and fixed lenses. Zooms and cheapo lenses are optical compromises period.they simply don't have the snap that good fixed lenses have. If your lens looks dark and contrastless in the viewfinder,imagine what it looks like on film! My favorite Nikkors,50mmf2,24mmf2.8,35mmf2.8,85mmf1.8,105mm f2.5,135mmf2.8,200mmf4,300mmf4.5 ed if.With these basic lenses almost any assignment can be shot!
From Howard Passman (Tue Aug 3 17:43:56 1999 ):
Good Morning Linus, I am currently doing the same for lenses and have been for a couple of months now. There are a ton of options but they all depend on 3 things. Do you want prime lenses? Are you adverse to zooms ? How much money can you invest. Oh yeah, patience can have some bearing on it. There are decent deals to be had. I'm going the zoom way because I need to be able to change focal lengths quickly. I'm trying to photograph baseball (son) and gymnastics (daughter). Both require quick focal length changes. Later I would like to photograph musical instruments so I will probably add prime lenses then. Cuurently the only prime I have is a 35mm. I guess the other question is do you want to stick with Nikon lenses or are you open to other manufaturers. A good sight to help you with that decision is http://home.ait.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html This gives some pretty interesting data and test results on most lenses and it will give you a side by side comparison of the selected lense in chart form. Hope this helps cause "I know your pain." Have a good one. Howard
From Howard Passman (Mon Aug 9 18:57:39 1999 ):
Good Morning Linus, Lenses with the ai feature "fool" the meter into thinking the aperature is being stopped down. Probably with variable resistence in line with the meter. I'm guessing that when you turn the aperature ring on the ai lenses towards a smaller aperature it increases the resistence to the meter which lowers the reading. A lense that requires stop down metering doesn't have the ability to do this so the meter always gets full voltage unless the photo cell (a resistance device itself) gets less light. Which it does when you you stop down. When you stop down on an ai lens you have put resistance in line twice. Once with the potentiometer hooked to the aperature ring and once when you blocked out the light hitting the photo cell. I hope this is clearer than mud. If I could draw it for you it would be easier. Take care and have a good day. Good morning Lars if you are out there. Still can't get thru direct.
From Linus (Sat Aug 7 17:02:07 1999 ):
OK Leonard, sorry I got carried away with the optics questions. Back to cameras. Saw this question asked elsewhere without success. Maybe you guys can help - For a camera like the FM2, say if I adjust until the meter says it has the correct exposure for a particular scene (eg. f/8 at 1/125), why does the "-" (under exposure) appear when I press the DOF lever? Say if I mount a lens that requires stop-down metering on the FM2, isn't that exactly what I have to do, ie meter when the DOF level is pressed?
From Man Lee (Sat Aug 7 02:45:34 1999 ):
Just come across the Nikon F and your web sites. They are so great that I really learn a lot from there. The reason why I keep surfing the web for Nikon is that I recently bought a FM10 and accidentally bought a focusing screen for FM2. Since it seems like it's too late to get the screen returned, I try to find out if there is any way to install that screen in my FM10. Well... I know the original screen for FM10 is non-interchangeable. If I really want to do it, I got to disassemble the body a bit. My question is if I am willing to do it, how? Where can I find the related info?
From MC Lau (Fri Aug 6 20:04:54 1999 ):
The last time I had tea with Leonard, he asked me to spend some time on the various message boards. Now that I finally did chip in, he asked me not to mess up the MB :-))). Anyway, back to camera. I find MF camera a great help to the composition. The subject is no longer in the dead centre of the frame, and pictures are no longer taken in a haste. I even had some good pictures of a night cycling carnival lately by employing the pre-focussed technique. No wonder the FM2 and F3 are still in production after all these years!
From Maintainer (Fri Aug 6 18:06:11 1999 ):
Wow... what has this MB for FM cameras turns into ? For once, I have to execute my 'power' here as maintainer of this section. However, not to upset everybody's stomach, here is a new room for all of you: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/lenses/optic.msql
From MC Lau (Fri Aug 6 12:29:28 1999 ):
|||| Prime vs Zoom |||| To me the advantage of a prime lens is the distortion controll. Zoom lens are usually prone to much higher level of distortion in the extreme ends of its focal length range. If you do a lot of pictures that are sensitive to barrel/pin0cushion distortion, such as archtectural shoots, than a prime lens is more suitable.

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