Nikon FM Series - Archived 151-200 Message Board/Guestbook

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Nikon FM Series - Archived 151-200 Message Board/Guestbook

From Bob Brown (Sun Oct 8 00:06:17 2000 ):
I have a 20 year old FM that has a light leak. It is a vertical streak that appears at the right edge of about every third frame. It looks like fogging and is through the base of the film. I tried replacing the camera with a used FE, and sure enough, I have the same problem. Called a service store and they said old FM/FEs are prone to the foam deteriorating and causing light leaks. Has anyone else had this problem and do you think it is light entering the door or through the mirror foam area? How much/where do you get it fixed? Can it be done yourself? Thanks for any help you could give!!
From j99mac (Wed Sep 20 07:02:45 2000 ):
Hi I am needing to know how to use the light meter in the nikon fm.
From Kenji (Tue Sep 19 22:07:16 2000 ):
***Jun Madrid***: SB-15 is a perfect match for your FM2n. I suspect your instruction manual could be pre-83 where Nikon just introduced the FM2n (we called it as the "New FM2" here in Japan). SB-14 is a handle flash and it was primarily designed for the Nikon F3 and it is a flash unit with different design and operation from compact flash such as the SB-15. There was a gentleman mentioned some info on the Nikon FE message board which you may use as a reference too at: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/feseriesmsg/feseries.msql ***Sani***: I doubt very much changing to another lens could solve your problem (shooting bugs at night); infrared films needs EXTRA precaution during film load and unloading process and most of the time demands a great deal of absolute light tight environment which I think may taking too much from you as a start, anyway, no harm it can be a good experience - everyone needs that.
From sani (Tue Sep 19 12:28:15 2000 ):
I used FM10, I want to know more about this model which lens that can fit better than tokina lens.I used this lens on nite to take bugs but still cant get the actual picture that I want so can you advice me ? what type of lens that more better that tokina that can fit to my FM10. some guys said used infrared lens and the infrared films is that so ? pls advice me! thk you. sani
From JWoods (Tue Oct 24 13:33:19 2000 ):
***RedWine***: Although in most cases, Nikon will advise not to handle cleaning the reflex mirror on your own but sooner of later we will try to handle such minor task of which I think should encourage AS LONG AS you know what you are doing. To clean your eyepiece, just unscrew it from the thread mount and clean it. Cleaning the reflex mirror inside the lens mount requires more attention (red wines, distracting sexy creatures are not advisable to be around... ) you can use a little normal lens cleaning fluid wet it with your lens cleaning tissues and clean it gently and lightly. Important note is: NEVER use force and DON'T use normal tissues or materials like your shift or facial tissues. Both the eyepiece and main reflex mirror have been multicoated to improve light transmission and can be easily scratch and damaged - although it never affect actual exposed image but it will always serves as an irritating note whenever you peep through the viewfinder. Sometimes those alien particles could be deposited on the focusing screens rather than you thought it is inside your eyepiece or on the reflex mirror, thus before you attempt to clean those critical components, always drop and remove the focusing screens and check before you proceed. MORE power to Nikon !
From JWoods (Tue Oct 24 13:17:50 2000 ):
***lori***: Mr MC's recommendation to that page worth a good read and helps you easily understand more about your FM2 series bodies better. Basically, Nikon introduced a FM2 back in 1982 and found they rushed to early to do so a year later when they eventually resolved some technical problems with the new titanium shutter; it was patched and the new body is called FM2n. In Japan the original FM2 with 1/200 sync speed is referred as "FM2"; the upgrade with 1/250 sync speed for flash is called "New FM2", that easily tells the difference.
From RedWine (Tue Oct 24 00:30:47 2000 ):
Greeting every NikonManiacs. I have bought used FM2N. How to clean View finde eye piece & Main reflex mirror. Thanks for care.
From MC (Mon Oct 23 00:09:22 2000 ):
To Nicole. I don't quite understand what you meant by "Nikon FM sub-mini". If you are referring to the FM2 or its variations, these pages should be be helpful.
From MC (Mon Oct 23 00:00:36 2000 ):
To Lori : To diffrentiate the various incarnition of the Nikon FM2 cameras, check of these pages .
From Eric Bogaerts (Sun Oct 22 22:36:06 2000 ):
I felt that I had to make a comment in regard to the FM-10 after reading about it in your website. Before I continue, I must say that you have a great website that is chock full of information about Nikons (and I'm sure other cameras) and the exchange of information in the message boards is a winner of an idea. I once owned the FM-10 (I still have the 35-70 lens) and I really have to say that it was well worth the purchase. I live near the city of Detroit, and I won a photo contest for Detroits premiere art/community newspaper, the Metrotimes with a FM-10. I realize that the biggest detraction to the camera is simply due to it's plastic construction and general light feel. However - in all honesty, only photojournalists and war photographers TRULY require a camera built like a tank. I know that Nikon has a huge reputation in the world of photography, but I really feel that the camera is really the best choice for a beginner. Surely, the camera is at the low end of the totem pole, but in all honesty it's still a mechanical camera, and in my opinion probably will outlive most of the Nikon EM's, Nikons first foray into the 'commercial' market. I find the EM to be just as much of a 'cheap', if not cheaper camera than the FM-10. There's no reason for a beginner to plunk down hundreds of dollars for a new FM2 and then realize that he or she really doesn't want to get into photography. The FM-10 simply allows the beginner to buy into Nikon's vast selections of lenses, both old and new. I must also state that the FM-10's metering system really beats the pants out of my friend's FE2. The exposures that I got with the camera were so accurate (almost 'matrix' good) that I often wondered if they actually had put in a matrix meter by mistake. I quickly 'grew' out of the FM-10, and now at this point I own a FA. However, there is much more than just a sense of nostalgia when I think back to when I owned the FM-10. I hope that this inspires some thought, - E. Bogaerts -
From lori (Sun Oct 22 21:51:51 2000 ):
I'm a little confused. Is there a difference between a FM2 and a FM2n and could you please tell me what they are. Thank you so much.
From Nicole (Sun Oct 22 18:37:12 2000 ):
Is there anybody out there that may be able to help me? I am wanting to find out more about the Nikon FM-2 submini camera. Can somebody help me. Thanks Nick.
From MC (Sun Oct 22 00:54:12 2000 ):
To Jonathan : NO. The FM2n does not support TTL flash. You have to use the flash in the Auto or Manual mode. The good news is you do not have to spend big money for the dedicated Nikon Speedlights. The modern Nikon speedlights are, however, very easy to use even in manual mode.
From Luis Norton (Sat Oct 21 02:40:32 2000 ):
Hi, I just bought a FM10 camera a few months ago, and I noticed that several pictures I took seemed that they were slightly over-exposured when I respected the exposure meter's indications. I also discovered that by fooling the exposure meter by putting the double of the sensivity of the actual film, most of the pictures would come out much better. Did anyone here experienced the same problem with this camera? or, can anyone tell me if this can occasionally happen?
From melissa (Tue Nov 7 13:00:29 2000 ):
I just recived a 35mm nikon camera and don't know what kind it is the model# is fm2540053 anybody has any info. please email me fre669@netzero.net thanks
From JChiem (Mon Nov 6 13:06:56 2000 ):
Marvelous website with tons of resourceful content ! I would prefer this photo site than many others as reviews here are far more "transparent" than many others the Net. I remembered I have been here in this Malaysian Site before and has underestimating its content writing during earlier visit.. I did a search recently for some additional information with the FM2/T and was guided back here, I didn't realize this site is SO HUGE and after spending a few nights of reading (bonus pages on Canon and Olympus etc.), it has in fact solved many of my doubts relating to camera operations and compatibilities among many of the old/new Nikon accessories. Only complaint is, the line speed is a little slow but I guess what matters most is the content hosted within and best of all, no advertisements. Thank you very much. - JJ - CA.
From Lars (Fri Nov 3 20:14:36 2000 ):
Drew - if it only says "FM" and not "FM2" it is an FM - Surprise!..
From drew (Fri Nov 3 00:47:50 2000 ):
I just inherited a Nikon FM camera. How do I tell what one it is? )ie..FM, FM2, FM2N etc...) Thanks in advance. Drew
From Dickie (Wed Nov 1 11:24:24 2000 ):
#Glen#: FM-10 will work with virtually ALL AI-Nikkor lenses which includes most of the autofocus Nikkor lenses available on the market today (Older Non-AI Nikkor may also be fitted but there is no metering available, while some claims it can even damage the plastic meter coupling lever on the lens mount found on some of the modern day Nikon cameras); For related info check the Part V for more: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm10/htmls/index5.htm The flash section is just located NEXT at part 6 (It is good to check the site first before you post these questions on the board as all those EXCELLENT content hosted here in this photographic site must have put in hell of a lot of effort and research work, I learnt a lot along the way too). But just in case you are in a rush - the FM-10 will work with all Nikon made flash that has a standard ISO flash mounting foot. You can also consider many other third party automatic flash you can find on the market (like Sunpak, Vivitar etc..) and it is NOT necessary to use a specific Nikon-made flash units.
From Glenn (Wed Nov 1 06:32:36 2000 ):
I need to know what kind of lenses, and flashes I can get for my fm10. Thanks for the help
From Chong Ly Hoang (Tue Oct 31 13:57:38 2000 ):
It is a FE, thanks Glenholst. Just one other thing that struck me about the FE compared to my trusty old pal Olympus OM10, the FE is has a much smoother shutter and the rewind mechanism is much more smooth even though my Oly is in alot better condition than the FE. (FE has been dropped I've been told) Boy it's sure changed my view of Nikons! They built them like tanks! 2 thumbs up!
From Henry (Sun Oct 29 08:59:54 2000 ):
SINGAPORE........looking for an FM2, I'm going to Singapore soon, can I get a used model for less than in europe, does anyone have any information on good camera shops in singapore? I'd appreciate any advice. thanks
From Genholst (Sat Oct 28 01:30:28 2000 ):
***Chong Ly Hoang***: Your camera should be a Nikon FE. check here: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/index.htm If you are certain the size and dimension of the camera is similar to Nikon FM/FM2(n), that must be the correct model asNikon FE-2 and Nikon FA has a higher mechanical backup speed of M250 instead of M90. Other than the FE, other electronic Nikon SLR bodies that carry a M90 backup speed are the sub-compact Nikon SLR camera models Nikon EM, FG and FG-20 (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/index.htm) together with the Nikkormat EL series bodies which are considerably larger in size than the Nikon FE (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikkormat/elseries/index.htm); in short - the best bet is still the Nikon FE. Good luck.
From Chong Ly Hoang (Fri Oct 27 06:57:03 2000 ):
Help! I don't know what model Nikon i have. I think i have an FM1, it sure looks like it in the pictures and descriptions on this site but the only thing different is that it doesn't have a ASA Film Speed Window on the dial, instead i have this M90 function on the dial which is a mechanical shutter override control for when the batteries have run out. So what model/year do i have?
From bollystar (Mon Nov 13 20:50:21 2000 ):
*Camellia*: It is indeed very difficult to determine whether your camera has been affected resulting from such a mishap. Generally, I would still think your camera should be all right because being a mechanical camera, it will not operate at all if it gets too serious than you have thought it would be. I had experienced worst scenario than yours and my FM2 is still functioning three years ago. If you want to have a peace of mind, just send your camera in for a throughout inspection and factory servicing. Frankly, I would rather more worry for your lens than the camera. You are quite lucky as it happened with a FM2 which is so ruggedly built and not your FG.. (My FG-20 has been "coffined-in", because it didn't dent - some of the compoents came loosen inside and Nikon said "no more parts supply"! ). Now you should know why Canon EOS-1v uses metal chassis again after all those years of saying "our industrial grade plastic is better..." and it was so convincing all these years.
From Camellia (Mon Nov 13 07:30:03 2000 ):
I have a Nikon FM2n that was purchased in 1987. I love this camera! I also have a FG, but I enjoy using the FM2n more. Recently I was at a wedding with my FM2. I was standing outside the reception with the camera and a Vivitar 285HV flash attached hanging on my shoulder. All of a sudden one end of the strap detached and the camera fell to the ground hitting the concrete about 3 feet away. I immediately panicked. I did not care about the lens or flash. I was just worried about the camera body. After inspection of the camera, I noticed that the lens was undamaged, along with the components inside (I removed the lens). Also the metering was functioning. The only problem was I could not get the back open to retrieve the film. The camera had landed on the corner edge where the film rewind lever is located. It is dented. After a little manipulation, I was able to get the back opened. Should I be worried about camera operation after such a impact? All the literature I have read so far states that this camera is very durable. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Camellia
From +Fr. William J Farley (Mon Nov 13 00:42:39 2000 ):
You have produced an excellent site. That is highly informative and well displayed. Thank you!
From Peta (Sat Nov 11 14:23:03 2000 ):
Is a Nikon SB-E speedlight compatible with a FM2(n), I couldn't tell from the info if they were fully compatible of if the SB-E would only work automatically with the FM2. thanks
From Roger (Sat Nov 11 08:06:25 2000 ):
To ManuelK.S Thanks for the advice. I thought it was something I could get repaired, but knew there was someone out there who could back my position. I also agree with your assessment of those squeaky Democrats and their sore losing. Just give it up!
From ManuelK.S (Fri Nov 10 21:06:25 2000 ):
To Roger: Once I was told this by an old camera serviceman here in my county: as long as it is a FM camera, he can find ways and means to repair it regardless of what condition he received it because it is a popular mechanical camera. Electronic bodies may be a little difficult, he claimed; firstly, he does not understand the digital layouts, IC circuits and electrical diaphragm that well, so when a part is suspiciously faulty or malfunction; he don't repair them - instead, he ORDER the replacement in its entirety. Mechanical camera needs periodical maintenance over a long spell of inactive use, shutter timing may need re-tuning every five years or so, some of the key mechanism may also need to re-lubricate for smoother operations and so on. SO - in many ways, he acknowledges electronic bodies do have many areas hard to compare by a mechanical bodies especially in areas where it relates to timing and accuracy; but the biggest setback amidst the many plus point for any electronic SLR camera is: once it is an outdated model and become unsupported by its manufacturer after the committed time frame; there are some risk in getting replacement parts. Unlike electronic bodies, an evergreen Nikon FM series of models could well find a serviceman in any civilized part of the world to get it fix. Just send your camera in to an experienced local camera service shop and tell the assistant " It has been a long time since I last did a servicing .... can you just give my FM a regular CLR.." that is all. When the problem still persist after servicing - just go back and ask them "What the heck have you been doing to my camera ? ...It was fine when I sent it in to your shop ...." Obviously, you will certainly need to raise your volume HIGH UP, just like those from the Democrat did to make it convincing, if not, the trick won't work - another little thought from sunshine state of conspiracy. - M.K.S - FL.
From roger (Fri Nov 10 03:11:05 2000 ):
Question. I have had a Nikon FM since the late 70s. Great camera. Recently, after sitting awhile, the first shot is slow, with the shutter staying open too long. Shots after are OK. Is this just a cleaning problem, or a problem that is unfixable?
From RedWine (Thu Nov 9 23:56:44 2000 ):
Greeting every NikonManiacs. I need to know what kind of light metering for FM2N. Thanks for care.
From ManuelK.S (Thu Nov 9 17:39:23 2000 ):
To Jan: There is NOTHING WRONG with your lens and camera meter. When you are using a NON-AI lens with a FM ( or FE, F3, EL2, FT-3 and F4); lift the retractable meter coupling lever up on your lens mount and use stop-down exposure measurement instead. The open aperture metering is NOT accurate when such a combination is used. In fact, stopped down metering is more accurate as it is metered with the working aperture. If you are not sure how to use, wait.. see bottom section of this page:http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fe/basic8.htm DON'T lift the lever in the "UP" position when you are using ANY AI-lenses (AI'd lens included), exposure accuracy will not be accurate too in that setting. It should ALWAYS be "DOWN" other than when you are using a non-AI lens.. from the cliff-hanging sunshine state of conspiracy filled election 2000. Viva Bush Jr. - M.K.S - FL.
From jan (Thu Nov 9 02:56:44 2000 ):
Hi, I inherited a Nikon FM camera and had it serviced. The light meter now works but not in exact sync with the lens that I have on it. It appears to be about 4 stops off the meter reading. The local camera shop tells me that the place that serviced my camera should be able to adjust the meter to accomodate the "older" lens which I am using and which is not AI'd. Does anyone know if this is so?
From Jun Madrid (Mon Nov 27 23:15:24 2000 ):
Hi! I'm a photographer from the Philippines. I own a Nikon FM2n. I sourced from the internet a third party winder costing $48 .the brand is Samigon. Does anyone have an experience with this brand? any problems? Do you think it's worth the trouble or should I get a MD12. Frankly, I don't need the 3.2FPS , just the convenience of a grip and power wind to the next frame after exposure. Thanks
From VIPIN JAIN (Wed Nov 22 14:28:08 2000 ):
We are interested in purchasing the FM-10 camera with extra flash & zoom facility. Pls. send me a quotation for the same. Kindly send me the full address of the Indian agent supplying this camera. Also send me a quotation for F-80 model of the camera. Regards, VIPIN JAIN Scientist, ARC International, Balapur P.O., Hyderabad-500005 India Ph. : 091-040-4441075/76 Fax: 091-040-4442699 Email : vpjn@yahoo.co.uk
From David Cox (Tue Nov 21 10:20:15 2000 ):
To ManuelK.S Hello and thanks for the tips. I have already printed out the FM manual and I can see no differences-- so I guess that I have the 77 FM model??? In regards to your advice my shutter speed dial only has 125 in red. Thanks again, David Cox
From ManuelK.S (Mon Nov 20 19:50:57 2000 ):
To David: Does your camera's shutter speed ring display similar to these two newer Nikon FM2(n) models (Take note of the "250" and "200" marked in red): http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index.htm IF answer is a "NO"; then, you can safely conclude yours is a Nikon FM. Another camera has similar "125" in red is a Nikon FM-10 which has a very plastic feel: (See:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm10/index.htm); You can use this section as your reference: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm/index.htm OR download a copy of the Instruction manual in PDF: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/manuals/fmfefa/fm.pdf As I was wondering why the FM site was not built as the FM2n site which has a superb manual arranged in HTML format; however, the current Nikon FM site is leaning more toward technical issues which may not be too helpful for a "new" FM owner. I would strongly suggest you to use the PDF file as a basic user reference before leaning more in the Technical Information section in this site. Yours, ManuelK.S - again another update from the Sunshine State of Conspiracy.
From David (Mon Nov 20 11:25:06 2000 ):
Hello everyone, I have a Nikon camera that I know little about. First of all how do I identify it? On the back of the camera, just behind the film rewind lever, are the following-- FM 2519412 This leads me to believe it is a FM series camera. Is this true??? Thanks, David Cox
From Lars (Thu Nov 16 16:00:20 2000 ):
Stefan - You are quite right the SB-E is "born" with Auto mode only. By means of a little piece of tape one can however block the sensor and the flash will do full output (M mode). This goes for SB-19 too.
From RedWine (Wed Nov 15 21:27:50 2000 ):
Thank you, "Camario" I like "center-weighted method" too.
From Camario (Mon Nov 13 23:03:48 2000 ):
Redwine: FM2 (or FM2n) uses a pair of SPD (Silicon Photo diode) cells near the eyepiece to measure light through the lens for metering. The system also employs a Nikon standard heavy center-weighted method. Earlier Nikon FM uses GPD (Gallium Photodiode instead).
From Stefan (Mon Nov 13 21:53:36 2000 ):
To Peta: There are some info on the SB-E which should be quite adequate to answer your doubt: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/flash/sb1tosb21/index5.htm#SB-E Yes, the SB-E is fully compatible with your FM2n. It can operate only in AUTO flash mode. Slide the selector switch to "FE-FM" and the ready light feature is retained. The SB-E has a rather weak guide number of 17 (AS 100, ft); don't expect it will function as a super flash, as a safe guide line - use it within 8 feet would eliminate many potential underexposure flash shots.
From Stefan C. (Mon Nov 13 21:41:20 2000 ):
To Camellia: The FM2N, like any other design of older manual focus SLR cameras, is quite easy to get most of its replacement parts because it is still a current model and also due to its modular design for easy assembling All you need to do is to change the top panel which also covers the pentaprism area in a single piece of Aluminum alloy. The body section is HARD to crack but its is still possible to get dented as I think the thick body wall should be robust enough to protect internal mechanism. In most cases, many would believe such a nasty drop MAY affect shutter accuracy, well, I don't quite buy that kind of explanation - rather its more of psychological rather than a real happening. But as "Bollystar" (from India ?) has just said, it is hard to determine without a physical and visual inspection but only solely based on your description given, well that still sounds quite alright to me.
From Edward (Sun Dec 3 06:43:01 2000 ):
I own a Nikon FM2N, ive changed my groundglass to Beattie Intenscreen but i dirtied the glass, i notice fine hair and some smudges on the mirror and its quite irritating when taking a picture but it does not affect the quality of the picture. Any suggestion how can i clean this. Is it safe to use a canned air spray? or alcohol. Need your advise. Thanks.
From JWoods (Fri Dec 1 13:20:27 2000 ):
Has been away for an oversea assignment for quite a while, but nice to notice this FM board has improved in its ovrall quality postings. To **ManuelK.S.** Thanks for alerting the availability of the Owner's Manual in PDF, I have skipped that "low profile) link in this site and got a copy now. tO** Jack L. Felch **: The BEST person to confirm is actually the seller, if he wants to sell his body, ask him can he buy two button cells (LR44) installed inside th camera and pull the film advance lever out and check inside the viewfinder and see if the LEDs lits. IF the seller is not sure how to do it, see:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index1.htm
From Jack L. Felch (Fri Dec 1 04:17:44 2000 ):
Greetings, I saw a recent Add on e-bay where the seller was auctioning a Nikon FM model and indicated that everything was working properly except the meter light was not working. I'm not too familiar with the FM but does this mean that the meter itself does not work? Or is there simply a light in the viewfinder that does not work? Any help will be apreciated. Thanks!! Jack
From akikoJun (Thu Nov 30 22:18:50 2000 ):
Nicole, Nikon 28Ti and 35Ti are basically a rangefinder Point and Shoot (P&S) type of camera, while FM2n or FM2/T are SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras. They are different where the both compact cameras are autofocus, auto exposure and auto everything, on the other hand, both FM2 bodies you mentioned are manual focus and they are mechanical in operation. Further, the FM2n does NOT use any titanium external coverings (note: **I was told** only the top, bottom and lens mount area are made of titanium for the FM2/T and NOT the entire body is made of Titanium, all FM2 uses aluminum alloy for its main body structure instead). Next, 35Ti has a bright and sparkling Titanium finish, the 28Ti has a black coated finish on top of the Titanium, the FM2/T has a slightly "rough" grayish finishing.
From Nicole (Wed Nov 29 06:25:11 2000 ):
Thanks guys for your prompt replies and advice. I am still a littlte confused as to the difference between the ti models (ie: 28ti and 35ti), are they completley different titanium models to the FM2n and the FM2/T? If so how do they differ? Thanks Nicole.
From Cheánov (Tue Nov 28 21:22:06 2000 ):
To Nicole: Looks like you have developed a Titanium Syndrome - just like me. Both 28Ti and 35Ti are great compact bodies and extremely well made and have two great optic in 28mm and 35mm Nikkor. I like the finishing of the 35Ti more and was wondering why didn't Nikon adopt similar exterior for the 28mm Ti. Well, in terms of practicality, the 28mm angle of view is more 'useful' than the 35mm of the 35Ti. In relation to your FM2 questions, I think ManuelK.S (Mexican friend ?) is a little overreacting - everybody has a personal preference and budget to spare, I bought mine Fm2/T at around USD450-00 a year back in Bangkok and your USD760-00 is indeed ridiculous (Or are those guys at Ebay do not know what are they chasing for..? ). Be patience, as long as you have the $$$!!! in your pocket, and just see who is more desperate..) worst scenario you can still falls back to a Basic FM2n, right ?

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