Nikon FM Series - Archived 101-150 Message Board/Guestbook

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Nikon FM Series - Archived 101-150 Message Board/Guestbook

From ManuelK.S (Tue Nov 28 21:09:47 2000 ):
Dear Nicole: FM2n has a weight factor (camera body only) of approx. 540g or 19 oz. (FM2 bodies with titanium shutter weighs slightly heavier at 590g). FM2/T is lighter at 515g (body only). A popular prime wideangle lens such as a 28mm f/2.8 Nikkor weighs around 245g which is almost half of the body weight of FM2n; an older version of 105mm f/2.5 may weigh around 370g; a 200mm telephoto weighs around 546g which is almost the same weight of the camera, if you go beyond 300mm says a 300mm f4.5 ED which may weighs a massive 2.3 Ibs ! So, the difference in weight between a FM2n and a FM/T is only around 25g and certainly that will not be a big reason to help you reduced the weight of carriage. Anyway, I would also believe and think in the same opinion like you where the Titanium version should be more durable and reliable but then in the used market such as the Ebay, it sells like a collector price and recently it demands a premium of USD760-00 which I can buy almost three used units of FM2n ! Well, for that price (OR if you know it carries such a stupid price tag) I would rather prepare the FM2n to go real places...and you will know your original budget still permits you to give away (or being robbed) the first two units of your FM2n. This suggestion may sounds very stupid, but it is more practical to suit your type of photography. Regards, Manuel from the Sunshine State.
From Nicole (Tue Nov 28 19:57:05 2000 ):
Hi everyone. I am the market for an FM2/T, FM2n, or FM2 but preferably an FM2/T for weight reasons. I hike long distances for extended periods and carry all my own gear so weuight is a big factor. If any body has some suggestions on other Nikon cameras that are light weight please contact me. I am even considering the FM10 as it has a light weight plastic body but am concerned about it's ability to withstand bush bashing, cross country skiing, snowboarding, snow camping etc... Also does anybody know the main differences between the cameras I have mentioned and the 28ti and 35ti. Regards Nicole.
From Cheánov (Tue Nov 28 12:23:45 2000 ):
To Dave Carlson: Virtually all Nikon made flash should fit with Nikon FM, may be differentiated by flash type (Auto Focus/MF) and features. IF you are not always working with flash, Nikon SB-15 or older Nikon SB-10 are more economical with SB-15 has more useful features like tilt, bounce and even a rapid shooting sequence (MD) See:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/flash/sb15/index.htm IF budget is an issue, you can just select a third party flash such as Vivitar 283 or any Sunpak etc. The Nikon FM flash is a basic flash design with conventional AUTO/MANUAL type of operation and does not command just to invest into any of the Nikon original. To JUN: MD-12 has long proven to be an workhorse grade motor drive unit, built-quality, reliability and energy efficiency is first class, it may well be a worthy investment as it also retains a very high re-sale value. For USD48-00 - I would worry more for your camera than the power winder.. peace. By the way, I don't think any one would disagree this is a MARVELOUS Nikon website, thanks for the GREAT effort, Webmaster !
From Dave Carlson (Tue Nov 28 07:32:54 2000 ):
Hi all, Just purchased a Nikon FM and would like some suggestions for a general type flash unit. Thanks in advance.....Dave
From Wendel (Tue Dec 19 13:34:19 2000 ):
I just bought a used, recent model FM2 in good condition. It works and looks like new, and I would like to keep it that way. How often should I have it cleaned and tweaked by repairmen to keep it in tip top shape, if I should at all?
From Jerrie (Fri Dec 15 21:29:28 2000 ):
To Tom: I still won't able to figure out what are you trying to explain on your posting ("...tried to load it the shutter appeared to come out of the track..." - HOPEFULLY you are NOT referrig to the shutter blades coming out from the back (that is a BIG problem, pal!). I would suggest take it to a good camera shop and ask for their frank opinion (Hopefully, such species are still around in your areas..). To Chris: FM2/T is damn expensive now (But comparing FM2n has gone up in price and thus some owners are taking advanatge to appreciate their investment..) I love to have one - even if I don't take picture with it, it is such a beauty (sounds stupid, but wait till you seen and have one in your hand..).
From chris (Fri Dec 15 09:00:05 2000 ):
about how much does a nikon fm2t cost now?
From Tom (Wed Dec 13 09:29:45 2000 ):
Hi Folks! I have a problem I have a Nikon FM2 when I tried to load it the shutter appeared to come out of the track and the rewind stopped turning the take up reel.Is there some sort of repair I could do myself or tis this a major problem HELP! Tom
From Stefan C. (Tue Dec 12 10:38:49 2000 ):
To Sebastien leblond: Check message by Dickie at the earlier posting number 40, He/she has a good explanation for your question. Don't worry too much about your English, neither anyone of us do (at least I would admit I am not too good at it). Comes to think of it, more than 70% of the world population do not handle that medium very well like us, right ? A few years ago, I went to a few Spanish dominated South America countries, the 40 odd days I spent there and hardly you can meet anyone who can speak English ! This is just a photographic forum, and you need not have to think you need a degree from one of those law schools in U.K. to participate. So don't feel too bad about it.
From Sebastien leblond (Mon Dec 11 11:34:02 2000 ):
I Have a nikon fm10 and i would like to know what kind of flashes matched with my fm10. is there any nikon flashes made especially for my fm10 and if yes, wich one? Thank you very much and excuse for my english but i'm so bad because my first language is french thanks for comprhension
From Dave Krnoner (Sun Dec 10 17:52:13 2000 ):
TO Van Holsen: I agreed with you, that was a interesting comparison at that section. But a Leica body alone cannot in change for so many Nikkor lenses as you claimed but if your original budget was including a Leitz lens or two, than it makes sense for such a logical explanation. I don't understand why the Leica lenses are so expensive (other than the built quality) neither I buy the thought they are far superior in optical quality than the comparing Nikkor. Anyway, I am more than happy, satisfy with the optical performance Nikkor provides and I settled with a FM2/T camera body too. The only complaint is, the AF Nikkor lenses is less rigid than older manual focus lenses and some of the critical focal length, I am reverting back to prime manual focus Nikkor.
From Van Holsen W. (Fri Dec 8 19:36:09 2000 ):
I have got a Nikon after reading your comparing notes on various SLR bodies ((http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index.htm)) two months back; originally, I thought I would settled for a Leica 6.2 but your explanation was very logical and thus, I bought a FM2n body and used the balance of the budget got myself a used 20mm wideagle, a 80mm f2.0 and also 300mm f4 EDIF lens tgether with a used SB-15 speedlight (Also take the opportunity to thank you for the recommendation). I have never been that happy shooting pictures with the Nikon after my earlier Yashica FX-2000 that I briefly used for about 2 years with a standard lens and 'fortunately have not been invested too heavily into the system over that period of time. For some of you who has yet make up your mind, read and go through that FM2 section, it worths a good read.
From Jojine (Wed Dec 6 01:02:38 2000 ):
To Edward: I am not so sure what's the material that makes up the Beattie Intenscreen. I always heard of that but the retail price sounds far out of my budget but I am just curious to find out is it significantly brighter than the K2 screens by Nikon ? Next, I notice this site has a small article here that may provide some guideline on screen maintenance:http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm
From michael (Sun Dec 3 13:41:15 2000 ):
Im on the market for a new fm2n and a 50mm f/1.4 lens(nikon). I am from Calgary Canada and will be traveling to Singapore some time in Feb.The price for camera and lens here in Calgary is $850 and $490 respectivly(canadian).Question,how much would this cost in Singapore and where would be the place to buy it. 0
From JWoods (Tue Jan 2 01:56:18 2001 ):
To JoAnne: Your FM is probably older than the gal and naturally she might not understand what is an Nikon FM all about. Anyway, Nikon FM can share with MOST accessories designed for the current model FM2n. There are some other accessories (See: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/accessories/caseshoods.htm) which you also can shared with it (Other than the current Databack MF-16 but you can still used with a MF-12 from used outlet). Cases for FM/FM2 are (Depend on lenses you are using it with): CF-27, CF-28, CF-28A (Front portion), CF-19(with Motor drive), CF-10, CS-16, CS-17 and CS-18. You can also use the universal case such as CS-7, CS-8, CS-9 and CS-10. Those with "CS" stands for Soft cases, while those with "CF-xxx" are semi soft cases (Leather, I assume...). The safest way is to check which type of lens you always carry with your camera and ask Nikon to provide you a more accurate clue which type suit your current setup most (You may ask here at this board too). Good Luck.
From JoAnne (Tue Jan 2 01:01:09 2001 ):
I bought my FM in 1980 and the camera case (the fitted type) is completely shot. Does anyone know where I can get one? These case are nice because it allows a person to not have to carry all kinds of luggage. I've had several types of other cameras and wound up giving them away. Nothing compares to my old Nikon FM. And would you believe I got it cleaned at a camera shop in St. Louis and some goofy gal that worked there said it wasn't worth the $25.00 to get it cleaned. Luckily some business man was there and told her she was crazy and then told me "you have a good one, don't listen to her!"
From Michele (Sat Dec 30 12:00:14 2000 ):
What's an FM in good condition worth these days? NOT LOOKING TO SELL! I love this camera and would never part with it! Just curious.
From Jeremie (Fri Dec 29 15:17:01 2000 ):
I have learnt from the site that there are two types of Nikon FM and three regular production models of the Nikon FM2(n), am I right ? Well, if it is not being discontinued, Can the FM2/T also be considered as another model ?
From Genholst (Wed Dec 27 21:55:48 2000 ):
Dear Alna, "...web address devoted to fm2 its a great camera so it deserves a site of its own ..." you are really making all of us wondering why are we here all these while at this message board unless you want to hear ABSOLUTE all the good things about Nikon FM2, there are two short but brief here at: http://www.nikon.co.jp or http://www.nikonusa.com But just in case, you were lost somewhere earlier, you can also try here: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index.htm - it may not be the greatest things you wish to read all about the FM2 but it is truthful, back to basic but a very direct hit out...
From alan (Wed Dec 27 20:46:00 2000 ):
hi all i really enjoy this message board its great,can anyone give me web address devoted to fm2 its a great camera so it deserves a site of its own.... thanks in advance alan happy new year too everyone.
From Saul (Tue Dec 26 15:19:34 2000 ):
I have a FM10 and i have read that it has some limitations so i want to know how to get the most advantage of it, so if you could tell me if i could use other lenses with this camera, if there's a remote control for it, what kind of flash should i buy, etc. and if i buy something for my fm10 could i use it on other cameras. I'm just new in all this but i really have interest on photograph so any opinion would help me a lot
From Krzysiek JK (Fri Dec 22 13:24:39 2000 ):
GREAT SITE and a really useful Message Board for Nikon FM series bodies. I have owned an original Nikon FM2 with a Nikon F2S (DP-2 finder) and had bought a MD-12 recently for my FM2, glad to be able download pages of Owner's Manual of the Motor drive too from this site. I have another cheaper offer for another MD-11 and glad to stick with my MD-12 after reading your reviews. I think I should distribute this site to many of my homeland in Poland (what a miss, I do hope someone from my country can translate everything in this site).
From Kennie Kim (Wed Dec 20 23:02:32 2000 ):
To Chris: As I noticed from a few recent Ebay auctions, FM2/T is slowly appreciating in its value, the few successful bids are between the range of USD700-00 even USD870-00 ! I don't consider places like EBay would be good hunting ground for us anymore like those days, I think I would suggest you try to get from Asian countries like Hong Kong, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur or Taiwan etc. By the way, there is a gentleman is selling his (claimed to be new in box) set at RM2500-00 (USD1-00 = RM3.80) at:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/ftz/ I am not so sure whether it can be negotiate further, try your luck.
From Georgi (Wed Dec 20 09:51:45 2000 ):
To Wendel: Frankly, one aspect of the weakness of mechanical cameras is shutter timing where I think electronic cameras also have the edge over them (But it is also hard to compare directly as no matter how bad it is, one way or another, you can still repair an old mechanical camera and not the other way round). If you use the camera with amount of workout monthly and store them carefully (plenty of ventilation to avoid condensation to the lens and camera), I don't think you will ever need to send the camera for regular maintenance as frequently you thought you should. I would suggest ONCE every three years under normal amount of usage. You can slo use all those "standard" advises as a guideline: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index6.htm#Care To "Sebastien leblond": Virtually all Nikon made flash can be use with your FM-10 (some dedicated flash may require mounting Via adaptor); I would suggest SB-15 or older SB-10 as cheaper alternative to SB-16B.
From G.Walsh (Sat Jan 6 12:58:30 2001 ):
I have forgotten to mention that I have a Nikon FM2n but using a MD-11 drive. Next, I have just found out there is a instruction manual for the MD-11 here too, that is great. I have not been able to find one since the previous owner has not been able to provide me one. Lastly, my compliments for this great website from Malaysia !
From G.Walsh (Sat Jan 6 12:52:23 2001 ):
I have been searching a motor drive or winder that allows power film rewind after film is finished. After reading content in this site, looks ike thereis not a model that can permit that function. Am I right ? Next, the technical section of the MD-12 here mentioned the self maintainence by tripping the pin inward during a Mal-function, I tried on my MD-11 and it does not seemed to work. IS there any other way to activate a jammed drive ?
From Ricardo CW (Fri Jan 5 10:57:43 2001 ):
To Budde: Oh.. sorry, the picture at the top of this page (Message Board) is that "ED" lens that I am mentioned at earlier posting.
From Ricardo CW (Fri Jan 5 10:54:17 2001 ):
To Budde: The Nikon FM you are having is one of the few Nikon bodies that has the BEST compatibility nature. It can take BOTH AI and non-AI lenses which also includes the current line of Autofocus Nikkor lenses. It will also accept older MD-11 and newer MD-12 motor drive. A tiny short fall is perhaps: you can only use older MF-12 Databack (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/mf12/index.htm) where newer (current model) MF-16 would require databack terminal which the FM does not has). Next is the two extra stop in speed (1/2000 and 1/4000) with faster sync (1/250) and cannot change the focusing screen and slightly dimmer viewfinder brightness. OVER ALL, the Nikon FM is still a very attractive camera and built to serve a heavy user. What I try to tell you is, the Nikon FM will takes any "normal" Nikkor lens and the 80-200mm f/4.0 you have in mind will fit like a dream... Well, IF you still have not buy the lens yet, the current AF Nikkor 70-300mm f4-f5.6 ED is another lens that you can consider. It may not be so well built as the older Nikkor mentioned but I think worth considering at its price - that is a poor man's ED lens...
From Ricardo CW (Fri Jan 5 10:41:48 2001 ):
To gabe: Looking at your current investment of lenses (105 2.5, 85 1.4 and a 50 1.8.). I think you should try out the 28mm foal length first before attempting the ultrawide range of 20mm or wider. The 28mm f/2.8 is the best buy, combining first rated performance with reasonable entry price. The 35mm is less pratical since you already have a 50mm f/1.8. Well, you standard lens is also a very good lens for closeup when you used with a bellow unit. I notice there is a sale going on with an older PB-5 bellow at here: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/ftz/ try your luck.
From gabe (Fri Jan 5 02:30:58 2001 ):
Hello there. I now have an FM2 and 105 2.5, 85 1.4 and a 50 1.8. I'm looking for a wider lens and want to know what are some favorites. Any help would truly be appreciated. You can email me at egabe@earthlink.net Thanks
From Budde (Fri Jan 5 00:49:21 2001 ):
I have just recently inherited my fathers camera equipment that he used in dentistry. So the only lenses that came with it are Micro. The camera is a FM with a MD-11 motor drive. I need any info on telephoto lenses that would fit for outdoor photography. For example would a 80-200mm F4 AIS fit? If not are there any adapters out there for me. Thank you
From Venniluse (Thu Jan 4 15:53:48 2001 ):
**Saul**: The "limitation' here is referring to FM10's path for expansion, such as it cannot used with a motor drive nor use with a databack, other than it is suspectedly NOT as tough as the FM2. On the lenses, it is no difference with any other Nikon, as long as it is not a non-AI Nikkor lens. You may used this site to pick up more of how to identify an "AI" and "Non-AI" Nikkor lens (or third party lenses) : http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm The FM10 can used with any flash units regardless of Nikon made or third party that has a universal ISO flash mounting foot. Big and heavy duty bracket mount Flash are not advisable as some of them has a higher voltage which may damage your accessory shoe and/or the PC terminal. Remote control ? Nikon has a very comprehensive standalone remote control system - unfortunately, many of them may require a Motor Drive like MD-11 or MD-12 to work and the FM10 may has some shortfall at this area. However, you can still make use of cable or cord-type triggering devices. For more detailed info, you can check the MD-12 section at: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/md12/md12basic4.htm Many of these remote units are not cheap either, unless you are totally committed to this particular type of photography, I would suggest: One at a time, brother. I hope what I replied is not too offending.
From KWSoong (Thu Jan 4 15:34:12 2001 ):
To Aaron: To your question "... set the exposure at one sec. and the film speed at 200 I get a positive reading on the light meter even if I put the lens cap on..." the FM10 has a metering range from EV2 - 19 (ISO 100. f2.0, 1 sec. - f16, 1/2000 sec.)at your ASA 200 it means it can set at 2 sec at f/2.0 but if you are mounting a fast lens such as f/1.4 or f1.2, it actually can provide reading down lower than 4 sec +, in such case, the meter may still provide a "+" reading - provided the illuminance of surrounding is sufficiently bright. Hope these info may help to ease your doubt over the FM10 metering system.
From JWoods (Tue Jan 2 02:10:51 2001 ):
*Jeremie*: If you want o include the FM2/T in as another version of FM series, there could be more: Such as the FM2n Millennium 2000 is another one and Stephen Gandy will also tell you showcase model Gold FM is another one too... while the Korean will also argue the Lemix (?) Nikon that made in Korea is another breed of Limited edition FM ... Well, I think just keep it simple as the site suggests.
From likermann A.R. (Thu Jan 18 10:14:01 2001 ):
Peter: Based on your descriptions, it is too early to conclude the camera is faulty. First I would suggest you to check this (because I had it when I tried to fun around with my camera during my early days of photography and have from learnt it after burning few unnecessary rolls): There is a tiny pin on the lens mount (just above the lens release button) where you can depress and lift a lever just next to it. CHECK and see if the lever is in the "UPWARD" position. Nikon FM and FE have that feature in order to accept older non-AI Nikkor lenses for stopped down exposure measurement. IF you are using any AI-spec lens, that lever should ALWAYS be open aperture metering is not working correctly and could cause all metering guide given inside the finder wrong. Next, if the lever is normal, check while you turn the aperture ring again and see if the ring with the lever is moving as well, if it does, it must be caused by internal circuitry and I strongly suggest you send in the camera for proper service.
From J.K. Arnold (Mon Jan 15 23:00:14 2001 ):
I have a similar model (FM) just like Peter but I have a different question: Why do I alsways experiencing half darkening at the center spot focusing screen when I mount my Nikkor lens while it does not exhibit such phenomenon in my friend's FE2 when the same lens is used on his camera ? The lens is a Zoom Nikkor 35-135mm. It is quite hard to focus using the split image.
From peter (Mon Jan 15 22:50:10 2001 ):
I have a Nikon FM I have been using it for the last 10 years or so and consistently producing pictures that I liked. Lately, many of the rolls that processed was having underexposure problems and I thought may be it is good time to send in for a service. It came back and was okay again but after I lend it to a friend of mine, the old problem reoccurred again with many of the frames heavily under exposed. What could be the cause ? By the way, what I have noticed is, when I turn the aperture the it doesn't not moved all the time. Is that normal ? Can anyone provide a clue before I send the camera back for service again ?
From maintainer (Mon Jan 15 11:54:37 2001 ):
Nikon Annual Photo Competition (NPCI) has changed to once every two years, the dateline for entry for year 2000-2001 is January 31, 2001, contact your nearest Nikon distributor for official entry form or check more info at http://www.klt.co.jp/Nikon/npci/index.html (Please Don't mail me, I know little about how to enter photo competitions).
From A. Stanford (Fri Jan 12 20:30:40 2001 ):
In reply to Jackie posting: "FM... have consistent multiple images (as if it has duplicated) in my pictures using flash at night ?..". Electronic flash has an extremely short flash duration (may range from 1/500 sec to 1/150,000 sec); it needs to sync correctly with the shutter during a flash exposure where shutter open and close to perfect timing to "take" in the flash burst; IF you are using a slow shutter speed, say 1/15 sec, in theory, it is still very length in comparison to the flash duration of any electronic flash. So, if the surrounding of any given scene is bright enough, the flash will form an exposure, while the remaining timing of the opened shutter MAY absorb light good enough for another image which we usually referred such phenomenon as "ghost image". In syncro-sunlight (a photographic term to say using flash for fill-light in a bright daylight scene), the slower the effective maximum sync sped could cause this undesirable effect (IF you are not intentionally creating it or use it as a creative effect). Hope this is simple and easy enough for you to understand what causes that blur in your pictures.
From jackie (Wed Jan 10 10:59:40 2001 ):
I have a Nikon FM (Older version) with a Vivitar 35mm f2.5 and a Nikon lens 135mm f3.5, along with a Sunpak flash. Question: why is it that I have consistant multiple images (as if it has duplicated) in my pictures using flash at night ?
From JWoods (Tue Jan 9 22:43:16 2001 ):
**Joe**: The FM2(n) will not drain the battery as with the earlier FM or FE because it has a new design to activate the metering. The standoff position for FM2 onwards (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index.htm) is acted as a shutter release lock instead. I have not been using a FM2 for quiet a while, but I think I am right (blast me if I am wrong OR if you like...).
From JWoods (Tue Jan 9 22:39:17 2001 ):
**Jenice**: That was an interesting question. Within my knowledge, I will try to explain here: The Nikkormat FT3 and EL2 was the last two mid compact Nikon bodies that still provided with the Mirror Lockup, other than that, only the Nikon F3, F4 and F5 still provide with this supposedly handy feature for close-up and extreme photography that may demand minimal vibration. Some examples are high magnification work, super telephotography and astrophotography. The original Nikon FM which was introduced along with the Nikkormat FT3 and EL2 has eliminated that feature back in 1977. Naturally, all subsequent midrange Nikon SLR cameras were not provide with this feature anymore. To use the FM(2) while trying to achieve similar result is only via a proper Self Timer operation with a sturdy tripod. In fact, it was designed to operate that way in Nikon FE, FE2 and also the Nikon FA, the moment when you start the self timer by tripping the shutter release button, the main reflex mirror will immediately flips upward and wait for the shutter to open and close. IF YOU BELIEVE the objective of the MLU is to minimize mirror bounce (other than serving some of the older Nikkor lenses which needs the main reflex mirror to lock out of the way before mounting), the Self time operation which was designed to operate in such sequences WILL ALSO PROVIDE SIMILAR RESULT. I don't want to take credit for that, actually I picked up info after reading the Nikon FE2 section in this excellent website by Leonard
From Joe (Tue Jan 9 01:19:49 2001 ):
According to the info provided in this site, if I left the film advance lever at stand off position will drain the battery power of Nikon FM until it depletes (?), what will that happen to the FM2n ?
From Jenice (Tue Jan 9 01:11:29 2001 ):
Question: I have two Nikon SLR bodies in FE and a FM each inherited from my parent eight years ago with a couple of lenses, I have to admit I was not too keen about photography for the past years but I do now and where I picked up this very interesting hobby a year back. I heard so much about some of the fantastic feature of the mirror lockup (MLU) that was available in camera such as Nikon F3 or the F4 which enable absolute vibration free photography, I understand that is not available in camera like mine but HOW can I achieve similar effect with minimum vibration when using my camera in duplicating work ? Thanks for reply in advance.
From A.Stanford (Mon Jan 22 11:38:02 2001 ):
To Greg Brooks & JWoods: I have bought a Nikon Coolpix 950 some months back and want to share some of my personal view on digital medium, the immediate section and worst areas for digital camera that would need to patch up now are: battery issues and storage medium. Digital camera are VERY power hungry. A set of fresh batteries hardly could last you few minutes ! Next, standard storage provided is only 16MB and theoretically, you can store only few images of maximum resolution setting. A storage card of around 128 MB would cost more than 1/3 of the cost of your camera. So, unless there is an absolute need, don't join the hype of digital camera yet and the digital back, even if t can be materialize like those find on the medium format cameras, that would only be practical to use it indoor and power by direct current, naturally, it would cost a bomb too !
From A.Stanford (Mon Jan 22 11:15:43 2001 ):
**J.K. Arnold**: To explain the Focusing screen, it may be a little complicated, but you can use here as a good reading reference: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm Unlike FE,FM2 and FA, Nikon FM has a fixed type of focusing screen. Newer screen(s) designed for later bodies (FE2, FA and FM2n but not the original FM2 as illustrated by leofoo in : http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index.htm which was designed and tuned to use older screens designed for the Nikon FE). The main difference between the older and newer screen types are the newer one is a stop brighter than older versions (to use older screen(s) on newer bodies, you would need exposure compensation because the camera meter is tuned to read light based on transmission of light throught a dimmer screen). Next, lens with smaller maximum aperture will have less light entering the camera body for focusing than comparing lens with larger maximum aperture. IF you own a standard lens like f/1.8 or f/1.4, You can just run a simple test - depress the depth of field preview lever while you turn the aperture ring, smaller apertures will cause the half darkening effect of the split image worsen and it should not appear when you set the aperture back to its largest setting. Solution ? It is stupid to ask anyone to change the camera where you can have the option to change the screen types such as plain "B" or the "E" grids screen. Well, a common way is to have your camera get close to my your eyes as a close as possible to the eyepiece and that may improve the situation a little. Hope these helps.
From sue (Mon Jan 22 10:53:32 2001 ):
I am new to SLR photography. I seen a lot of nice postcards that have shown pictures with beautiful flowing water that was very blur in the image. I read that from some books which explained it was made with slow shutter speed, I have tried many times and cannot get similar effect or getting excessively over exposed slides. Can anyone of you throw some light on this topic ? Oh, by the way, I am using a Nikon FM2 which I bought in 1996 where i would ssume it is a newer version of the FM2.
From den (Sat Jan 20 18:19:45 2001 ):
To Pong: well, before rushing your camera in for servicing, I would assume you are daxn sure you have the correct battery(ies) inside your battery compartment under the camera and - correctly arranged... peace too. To JWodds: Make sense, make sense... make a lot of sense.
From JWoods (Sat Jan 20 18:14:40 2001 ):
**Greg Brooks**: The proposed "digital film" (It has a similar size and shaped like a normal 35mm film roll) was a great idea because all of us DON'T need to follow the 35mm SLR digital revolution that tight, where producers like Kodak , Agfa, Fuji sold early Prototype models modified from normal SLR cameras ten of thousand in USD a few years back. The idea sounds like a perfect platform bridging between conventional film based medium and digital photography where we can select either normal film or digital catridge even in our OLD manual focus SLR cameras. The product has grabbed a lot of attention at the initial stage but it has never took off in a gallant way as it should be (I cannot even find it in the search engine now). Probably, one of those biggies has felt the real threat it can post to their corporate profits and decided to buy the initiator out during the prototype stage - afterall, none of them wants to see such a project materializes because who would want to buy all those fancy new digital SLR or even digital P&S, right ? So the 'thing' that you wish to have will remain just a wish. Peace.
From RedWine (Fri Jan 19 21:47:35 2001 ):
To Mr.Pong; If you can't fix the camera metering system. I think you buy the hand metering is the easy way.

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