Nikon FM Series - Archived 451-500 Message Board/Guestbook

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Nikon FM Series - Archived 451-500 Message Board/Guestbook

From MC Lau (Fri Aug 6 11:41:49 1999 ):
|||| Nikon 75-150 f3.5 zoom creep|||| In the last 15 years, I have sent the lens twice to have the zoom creep adjusted. I frankly do not know what and how it was adjusted, but it does work reasonable well when returned. Agian, not as well as the 80-200 f2.8 zoom.
From Linus (Fri Aug 6 08:14:47 1999 ):
Good morning Howard. Thanks for the very interesting analogy bewteen photography and music. I personally listen to CDs and use an Audiolab 8000A while my dad invested in a tube amp. Frankly I can't tell the diff!!! My reason for using primes was because I wanted to really slow down and think about my shots. Since I'm already using a fully manual FM2n, I thought I might as well go the whole hog and go back to primes. If I wanted just to grab some happy snaps of a carnival or family outing, I'll use my EOS gear with a standard zoom which I can easily set to full auto and hand to the wife if she's so inclined. Lars, I was merely trying to shorten my learning curve of the Nikon MF system when I asked about legends. As with any system, there are some gems and there are some dogs. I could always rely on lens test reviews but I prefer actual user comments. I hear what you're saying about zooms and AF, that's why I held off buying the 75-150. It seems to receive mixed reactions from users. Another zoom with this problems is the 80-200/4.5 AI. Apparently it was great in it's time but according to a friend who spent a good deal of time looking for it on the used market, when he finally shot with it, he found that it wasn't as "lengendary" as all the hype that surrounded it. Maybe his expectations were too high....that friend has now moved on to Leica M and Rs and medium/large formats. He's still got a Zeiss 85mm with a Nikon mount that he's promised to let me test. I'll post the result when I get my hands on it. Well, after all that, I'm still unsure about which lens to look out for. Guess I've just have to see what pops up at the used shelves locally. Cheers
From Lars (Fri Aug 6 00:17:56 1999 ):
Howard - I would never want to hurt you! You have very good point. We tend to focus too much on equipment where photography perhaps should deal more with expressing feelings. Hmm.. Linus was looking for legends however and in my opinion the zooms that have been arround long enough to reach legendary status just isn't good enough. There have been a strong evolution in the quality of zooms in the last decade however. Please note that the last prime AI-S which was not a redesigned AI lens was the 20/2.8 back in 1984 (if one disregards the 500/4 P (1988) and the upgrade of the big teles in 1986) since then development seems to have concentrated on zooms and AF.
From Howard Passman (Thu Aug 5 18:24:43 1999 ):
Good Morning Linus, Lars will probably want to kill me for this and I'm fairly certain I'm opening a "can of worms" but here goes. I have seen this argument about prime vs zoom in many different forms over my span of interests. I have been involved in music since I was a kid in the form of performing and in listening. Am I a sophisticated listener ? Probably not. But I have great listening abilities. There are those that argue that only analog is worth listening to. Some still only listen to vinyl and only on tube equipment (very expensive). And yes if you can stand an occasional pop and maybe a little static they sound wonderful. I, on the otherhand, find listening more enjoyable (and more lifelike) if I don't have to get out of my seat every 10-15 minutes. Wouldn't do that at the symphony or at (lord forbid) The Beastie Boys. So I make the compromise to listen to CDs. In that compromise I get greater dynamics and a longer (much) uninterupted listening time. Music is still enjoyable on a boom box or a $100,000 stereo. I've spent alot of time with both. What the **** am I getting at here? DEPENDING on what type of subject you are photographing you may be doing YOURSELF a big disservice by eliminating a whole genre of equipment. Do you compromise not getting the shot at the "perfect" moment because you're to close. Even in the darkroom you can't add what isn't in the frame. Or which is worse, a shot taken with a less than "prime" lense or one that you were to far from so you have to blow it up which shows more grain? The shots you plan are very easy pull out the right lens and get very close to the finished product (framing wise) right there and then. The things that happen that you weren't planning on happening get away. My first time around with photography was in the 70's. Did alot of band (music) shoots and jewelry. Didn't have any zooms mostly because I had a good set of primes and a darkroom. I didn't miss alot but I look back at some of those photos and I can definitively say that some of my most special shots were candid. And alot of those could have benefited from having the ability to zoom in or out. To me a good set of primes is eventually a (expensive) must. But when I go to a local event (carnival, ball game, powwow, races (horse,car, whatever)) I put my indispensable zoom on my camera. And when I drive to work I listen to music in the poorest listening environment known to man. But I don't want to miss the music (shot) cause life is to short. Take care and keep an open mind cause even the broken crayon in the bottom of the box can still be used to color if you love to color !!!!! Howard
From Jan (Thu Aug 19 23:34:16 1999 ):
I am a photography instructor and we have two Nikon FM camera bodies that are perfectly good except they both need new shutters. I have been told the replacement shutters are no longer available.Schools are always limited on their funds so any help out their where I could get these cameras repaired would be appreciated!
From Alf (Thu Aug 19 03:47:41 1999 ):
Man lee, I would keep the focusing screen and return the FM10!
From Linus (Tue Aug 17 11:11:18 1999 ):
Hi guys. Sorry I've been so quiet. Was overseas for a week on business. Of course I took my FM2 and snapped quite a few pics. Will get the prints processed ASAP. Roy, I'm not the best guy to answer your question, but I'll give it a shot. If you've read one of the replies here, the 75-150/3.5 Nikon E Series lens might be worth considering for protraits. Others are probably the 105/2.8, 105/2.5 or maybe the 80-200/4. These should be comfortable lengths for nice head and shoulder shots. Vikram, the FM2 is a very nice camera but not exactly cheap. It's great for learning if you are really serious about getting into photography but if you want something just to take family/holiday snaps, (dare I say it??) an Auto Focus camera might be better and easier to use. Cheers
From Vikram F (Sat Aug 14 16:30:20 1999 ):
Hello, This is Vikram. I,m a novice when it comes to photography but am very eager to learn. my cousin adviced me to begin by buying a Nikon FM2. Soughting advice from U. Would be greatly obliged if somebody could suggest which camera to buy ???
From Roy (Fri Aug 13 12:15:11 1999 ):
I am a Minolta kind of guy who just bought an FM2n because my old SRT101 will die sooner rather than later. I appreciate the information on primes. I have an X-700 with zooms for snapshots, but I love mechanical, and I will only use the FM2 for thoughtful things. Please advise on bang for the buck Nikon portrait lens Leonard, Lars, Linus or anyone. Thanks. I'll just shutup and watch for a few days.
From Leonard (Wed Aug 11 10:19:36 1999 ):
It is alright, I am not that "rigid". But since the new 'Pool' is meant for all photographers, don't you guys think it is a good platform to lure in more non Nikon users as FMers ? Other are reading what you are putting up as well, generally, I felt Nikon users are a little defensive - I do hope all of you can help those in needs by posting questions or answers there. If there are technical problems you don't like 'others' to see, use the FM board again. I know how to close my eyes, at times.
From Howard Passman (Tue Aug 10 17:43:47 1999 ):
Sorry Leonard, Couldn't we just discuss lenses with FM owners. I find it difficult to go to the new site cause that's not where the FMers are. If I'm out of line, let me know and I'll be good. I like this site way to much to cause trouble. Thanks, Howard.
From Howard Passman (Tue Aug 10 17:39:35 1999 ):
Good Morning Linus, Again I am not an expert on this but what what I've seen and read the 105 1.8 is a sharper lense. Maybe Lars could give us some first hand experience on this one. I see the 1.8 on auction (www.ebay.com) for an average price in excellent condition for around 250.00 to 300.00.Happy hunting! Howard
From Linus (Mon Aug 9 21:57:52 1999 ):
Thanks for the explanation Howard. I didn't pay too much attention in school during Physics lessons but I think I know what you're talking about - pressing the DOF level doubles the resistence hence meter shows under-exposure - got it. Incidentally I've given up on the 75-150 zoom and am searching for decent used 105/2.5 or 105/2.8m and 200/4. cheers
From Lars (Mon Aug 9 21:48:51 1999 ):
Howard explained it well. Nikon ought to have made an AI coupling bypass activated by the DOF preview lever. That would not have been too difficult.
From Howard Passman (Fri Aug 27 17:50:44 1999 ):
Good Morning Chuckie, I was a very happy Minolta SRT-101 and 102 fan also. However, they haven't made that camera for a long time and when I bought my FM2-N I wasn't sure I could find one that was in perfect condition. By the way the 102 had the mirror lock-up and the display has f stop and shutter in the view finder. I bought the FM2-N because the led didn't bug me to much and you can tell a little more than you think. For example if the + and the 0 are lit I believe it means your are 1/5 to 1 stop off. Then if just the + is lit you are greater than one stop off. Anyway, as far as a Nikon camera that fits your bill for needle metering and has alot of goodies like TTL flash capabilities, depth of field preview, etc.you might look at a used FE or FE2 but I think the FE2 may have the LEDs again. The FE sells used in your price range. It hasn't been made for a while but not as long as the SRT-101. Hope this helps. Have a great day! Good Morning Lars if you're out there!! Just got a beautiful guitar made out of KOA wood that a fella in Canada made for me. It may inspire me to buy a 105 a little earlier than expected. Cheers!!
From Linus (Fri Aug 27 15:05:27 1999 ):
Roy, there're lots of Nikon Lens Reviews on the net. I'd suggest you check them out before parting with your cash. Some of the Nikon E series lenses are OK but some are real dogs os watch out. I can't remember the website address but people like David Ruether and Grover Larkins both maintain excellent review sites. Do a search for their names on the web.
From Chuckie (Fri Aug 27 07:24:34 1999 ):
I'm looking to buy my first camera. For now, I'm trying to decide between a used manual and a new AF. Basically, I have a problem with buying a used manual if it's going to cost as much- or almost as much- as a new AF, where I could just set the camera to manual and leave it there for 3 months or 6 months or a year or however long it takes to learn the basics. Then I would have the AF already there when I'm ready to expand into AF education rather than having to buy a whole new camera. So, basically, if I find a $200 or less camera with my desires, I would consider buying that over an AF (the Canon Elan IIe or Nikon N70). So, I checked out a number of manuals today. I found the Pentax K1000 decent. I really liked the Minolta SRT-201, principally because of the metering system as seen through the viewfinder- it has a ring that represents the aperature and a needle for the shutter speed, and you're properly exposed when the needle goes straight through the middle of the circle (I figure you might already know this, but I don't know for sure). What I loved about this is that you know how far off you are from being properly exposed and how each change in aperature and shutter speed gets you closer to exposure. I didn't like the FM2 too much (which surprised me because it comes so highly vaunted) because it has a LED display rather than the needle thingy. Furthermore, it's just a + or - display- at least on the modern AF cameras it represents a few exposure settings so that you know when you start getting close and have an idea as to how far off you are. I didn't like the OM-1, or maybe it was the OM-2, cuz it seemed to have some kind of exposure dial on the top of the camera (I didn't get to look through that one, only saw it through the glass)- I figure if I'm gonna buy a manual, I might as well be truly setting everything myself. So, basically, what I'm looking for would be a used manual for under $200, or lets say even $250, that has a metering display similar to Minolta's (ie, something representing aperature and something representing shutter speed)and which shows aperature and shutter speed settings in the viewfinder. Do any Nikon's fit this build? If you have any suggestions, please email me at Gattzbee@aol.com. Thanks greatly folks! Appreciate the help.
From Roy LaFaver (Thu Aug 26 07:23:53 1999 ):
Thanks, Linus. I also received emails on the subject of portrait lenses, and I notice that no one seems afraid to recommend Series E lenses. So, I found really good buys on a 135mm Nikor and a 100mm Series E, which I plan to use for tight snapshots on my upcoming vacation. Haven't developed anything yet with the two teles, but I have with my 50mm AF. It is fantastic. I'm lovin' this FM2, but I love my X-700, too. Guess I'm just easy to please. If I ever become solvent again I might look for a 35mm Series E. Thanks again for the advice.
From Lura (Wed Aug 25 06:48:12 1999 ):
I'm looking into getting another lens for my two Nikons- an FM and a N2020. I currently have a Nikon 35-80 f4, what would be a good second lens for these two wonderful cameras to share- I would like to stick with Nikon or Sigma if possible- that would not be too expensive on a photo student budget?
From MC Lau (Mon Aug 23 20:51:56 1999 ):
--- Hi Goh ---- It is highly unusual that the film rails get rusted only after 2 months of use. How is the camera stored? My FE is into its 18 years now, and not a bit of rust anywhere! I would suggest you send it in for a service soonest!
From Howard Passman (Mon Aug 23 17:49:48 1999 ):
Good Morning Zoe, For a manual for your FM2 you might try Craig Camera @ www.craigcamera.com They have thousands of manuals for obscure stuff and new stuff. They are easy to deal with and prompt. Let them know I told you about them if you would. I owe them a favor. Have a great day! Howard
From Zoe Kiefer (Sun Aug 22 03:36:45 1999 ):
Does anyone know where I can get a copy of a FM2 instruction manual?
From Tim Simpson (Sun Aug 22 00:40:39 1999 ):
Having had the pleasure of owning several Nikkormats, an early Nikon F, an FE and a Nikonos IIIA and IVA, I have just bought a mint FM with an MD-12 drive. After shooting one roll, I can say that I am more than pleased with the camera. I prefer manual cameras, and cannot fault this one. I have also just bought, for my building design business, a Coolpix950 - an entirely different instrument which I will have to learn to 'walk' with all over again. My FM came with no manual, so I am grateful for the PDF download!
From GOH KHENG TEONG (Fri Aug 20 18:24:12 1999 ):
Hi. I own a Nikon FM2n which I just bought about 2 months ago. The flim guide rail has already rust abit. what should i do? is this covered under the warantty? please advice.
From Suds (Fri Sep 10 08:59:25 1999 ):
Help I am looking for a FRE unit for a Nikon FM can anyone out there help me.
From sedo (Thu Sep 9 00:21:27 1999 ):
could you please say me, what is the price of Nikon FM ( Body ) ?
From Linus (Fri Sep 3 14:48:36 1999 ):
Roy, I think all links can be found at the following site : http://members.xoom.com/nvaughan/nikonlinks.htm The names I mentioned are also linked there. Hope this helps. I'm also looking for a Nikkor 28/2.8 myself but the local agents all seem to be out of stock. Too bad.....I was intending to use it on my coming trip to Bombay. I leave on Monday so you won't hear from me till the week after. Cheers
From Roy (Fri Sep 3 09:52:41 1999 ):
Good evening, Linus. After giving your message more consideration, I searched for those names but could not find them. However, I found others who felt that Series E is weakest on the wide end. I also got a dose of reality in comparing used prices, Nikkor and E. The difference is not great, and the good Nikkors are 75 percent of new import price. I finally decided on a new 28mm. I got the 2.8 for a good price, and since my real concern is closeups with good depth of field, it should be enough. Thanks for the cautionary note.
From Ljubisa Dokic (Fri Sep 3 05:10:05 1999 ):
Herzliche Gruesse aus Belgrad fuer alle NIKON-Freunde!
From Rudy Van Beurden (Fri Sep 3 00:48:34 1999 ):
I have a Nikon FM for about 20 years now without encountering any problem. A couple of week ago I started having intemittent problems wit the the light meter LEDs (going out sometimes). I changed the batteries, but the problem remained and in the meantime the LEDs are not working any more. Is this a known problem? Can it be solved at a reasonable price? Any addresses (preferably in Belgium). Thanks
From Geoffrey Leow (Wed Sep 1 13:34:03 1999 ):
Hi FM2 Lovers ! I'm also an FM2 Lover. Recently saw a number of guys wanting instruction manuals.nI have a set of it in mint condition ! Can't sell it tho. Perhaps if u could e-mail me giving location or address and agreed to postage and photostating that could help ! So once again ONE FOR ALL AND ALL FOR ONE. Geoffrey.
From snapshot (Mon Aug 30 10:33:32 1999 ):
Hi, I'm looking for a manual FM2 system. Any idea how much it cost in Penang?
From troy uttke (Sun Aug 29 08:22:12 1999 ):
I have two nikon fg that need help where do i send them for service
From Roy (Fri Aug 27 20:34:58 1999 ):
Thanks for the tip, Linus. I must say that I have looked long and hard for info on the E Series. Even called Nikon. Some reviews seem to ignore these lenses because they are not "real" Nikons. I ignore those reviews. However, some compare the E's to third party lenses, and I study those closely. For me, photography is about subject and composition. I have some old photos from my mom's Brownie (1916), and I never tire of looking at them. However, in my new photos I want quality good enough for enlargement. Most of my shots would look bad if taken with pro equipment (I only get 4 or 5 keepers per roll). Some pro shots in magazines look bad to me, no feeling (a good shot is one that gives you the "feeling", though you've never been there, in my opinion). My favorite "Roy" picture is from an X-700 and a Tokina zoom. One of my few observations on quality is that Kodak amateur films deliver better results than Fuji (purely subjective observation). I want lenses that don't kill the light and will give me something good enough for 12 by 16 enlargemnents with 100 film, 8 by 12 with 400 film. I want lenses that won't fall apart or secrete scum internally. I can tell the difference between my new Nikon 50mm and my Tokinas, as I can see the diff between my Minolta's and Tokinas. However, when I "do it right", I believe that a "good" lens will suffice. So, having said all that, do you think a wide angle Series E will give me decent results? I am thinking about a 28 or 35. I have not found reviews on these. For used stuff, Nikkors seem to run about 50% more for these lenses. However, if the construction and optical quality are poles apart, I can wait for the "real" thing.
From MC Lau (Fri Sep 17 21:36:38 1999 ):
Yes, even the Leica R8 has a viewfinder of only 0.75 magnification, (btw, the standard prism finder for the Nikon F5 is also having a magnification of 075). It is a pity that all too often, good cameras were let down by their poorly designed viewfinder. A case in point is the Contax G2. That was the main reason I disposed off the G2 a year ago. Even the excellent Zeiss optics wasn't good enough for me to keep the G2 :-))
From cgb (Fri Sep 17 16:32:01 1999 ):
MC, I agree. I bought a used Leica R3mot in 84 and some lenses (used) over the years, but, indeed, couldn't justify to buy new. Instead of upgrading or extending the Leica gear I added the FM2n. The FM2n qualified itself by its features. Namely: - the higher magnification finder. This is a really unbeatable feature to me (namely for street shots), as it allows to shoot both eyes open! Every Leica SLR has a lower finder magnification (0,7x) and can't be used this way. I even removed the hot shoe from my FM2n for better viewing (I never ever use flash and if ever there is the second sync) - it's simplicity. I added a grey card. Just take some representive meter readings and than I'm ready to shoot. Nothing comes quicker. - it's ruggedness (as a result of simplicity?). OK, I don't want to prove that. But there are situations when I feel I'd better not risk the 20 year old Leica (although now less worthy than the Nikon, so let's say the lenses). However my point is: Nikon should change it's policy and should support old equipment. When I use a camera very often over long time (like the Leica), no matter what it is worth - I wouldn't want to part. I wouldn't want to 'learn' a new one, to adapt to a different feel (fumbling with the camera definitely distracts from the pictures). And more... I think the best camera is the one that can be repaired. Short lifecycles of consumer products (I really hope Nikon doesn't see the FM2n just as a consumer product but as a serious tool for photographers) are overall detrimental to this world. I also think that there is no 'improving by consuming'. If I would think different I wouldn't have opted for the FM2n, wouldn't I?
From MC Lau (Thu Sep 16 23:17:51 1999 ):
Leica 6.2 a competitor to the FM2n? Features to features, these two classic and compact mechanical cameras are indeed very close. The Leica has better specification in having an additional spot meter, TTL flash exposure, built-in diopter correction, a strange implementation of the mirror lock-up and their lenses of almost prohibitive prices. On the other hand, the FM2 has a higher sync speed of 1/250, higher shutter speed of 1/4000 sec, and accept film up to ISO 6400. But specs apart, I think these cameras have different target groups all together. With the Leica almost 5 times the cost of the FM2 new, I really don't think there are any serious competition from Leica at all. "cgb" could be right in stating the overall owning cost of the Leica may be cheaper in the long run, but the start up cost including lenses is so much higher that I really doubt any would-be FM2 buyer will consider the Leica as an alternative.
From MC Lau (Thu Sep 16 22:34:35 1999 ):
>>>> To cgb <<<< Very thought provoking comments from you. I was really disappointed when Nikon turned me away when I sent my FE and the 75-150E Nikon lens for repair some six or seven years ago. The official reason was that those were older models of their products that had ceased production long ago and parts were not available. They did explained that even the products were discontinued, Nikon would still, as a general policy, provide repair and other services for a few more years until the parts were exhausted. While it is comforting to know that some camera are still be serviceable 20 or 30 years down the line, as in the case of Leica and few others like Hasselblad, most camera manufactures seem to have adopted the policy to treat cameras like consumable with some definite service life. Sad but true. May be that is part of the economics that keeps the manufacturers going?? However, most will agree with me that mechanical cameras like the FM and FM2 (and the earlier Leica) are likely to last longer and more serviceable than all the electronic cameras filled with chips, processors, LCD, motors and all. No?? Just try to source a 8088 chip in your local electronic outlet :-))
From cgb (Thu Sep 16 16:49:24 1999 ):
Interesting information 'bout the FM 10/FE 10 and their position in the market. The Contax S2/S2b however, are not competitors to the FM2n. The truth 'bout the Contax is that it is a Yashica in Contax envelope which includes a lot of downsides (e.g. low meter sensitivity). Anyway, the FM2n has only one competitor in the market - the Leica R6.2 . You might think the Leica couldn't compete due to it's price (and make the FM10/FE10 look even more justified). But in the long run it is cheaper than the FM10. Why that? Because Leica supports old and very old cameras and will have spare parts for them even twenty years from now. As a owner of an FM2n (backup) I feel a bit disappointed to see Nikon introducing cheapened models and stopping production of parts for older models at the same time. Nikon F meters, Nikonos O-rings, even FM shutters are already no longer available. This makes these cameras a risky buy. What if my FM2n will have a problem twenty years from now? Would I be forced to buy new (improving by consuming)? I think the FM10 represents a complete false policy. It only looks cheaper now but definitely isn't in terms of durability and service.
From MC Lau (Thu Sep 16 10:09:39 1999 ):
Hi all! The Nikon FM10 site is now available for preview and comment. http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm10/index.htm Leonard & I are developing this site together. Please direct any commnets that may help to me before it's officially going 'live'. Thanks.
From Kelvin (Thu Sep 16 02:35:52 1999 ):
Does anyone know where I can find brand new FM2/T in Canada/ North America?
From Lars (Thu Sep 16 01:54:35 1999 ):
Hi Folks! Let's get a few things straight on AI-S lenses! The main difference of the AI-S and AI is that an AI-S has a linear aperture stop down action whereas an AI has a non-linear aperture stop down action. This is used in P and S mode as the the aperture setting is controlled via the the stop down lever. With an AI lens the camera can only stop the lens down to an approximate aperture. FG (1982) does this approximate stop down, then metered just before the mirror action (and shutter) to correct the shutter speed in its Program mode. This can be thought of as an "instant stop down metering". FA (1983) was the first to make use of the new stop down action of AI-S lenses (others include only F-301(1985) and F-501 (1986)). If they senses an AI-S lens they shunt the "instant stop down" and the shutter you see is what you get. They will however still do P and S with AI lenses using the "instant stop down". AI-S also has another feature; it can tell the camera (FA, F-501 & F4(1988)) its focal lenght (on a very crude scale; below 135 or above or equalling 135 mm) This is done via a so called focal lenght indexing ridge and lever. The feature is used in Dual Program to optimise the shutter speed. The only cameras that has this type of Dual Program is FA and F-501. F4 will not do any type of Program or S mode with a non-CPU lens and it is a bit of a mystery what uses F4 has of the mechanically transferred information on lens type and focal length. AI-S took over from AI arround 1981. Take a look at http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/lens2.htm for more info and illustrations of the features and at http://home.ait.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html for dates of different lens versions.
From Howard Passman (Tue Sep 14 17:56:33 1999 ):
Good Morning Kid, The caps you are asking about you should be able to pick them up at your nearest Nikon dealer or repair shop. Actually any camera shop (decent) should have them. Either should be under 10.00.The UV filter should have no negative effect on your pictures. The prices on the 50mm look about right. What was the reason you were looking for AI over AIS? There are two reasons I don't buy AI lens. They may or may not pertain to you. First, I hope to get a FA as a second camera (I have an FM2-N now) I am not against auto cameras but I needed a dependable manual camera first. The AIS allows the use of shutter priority on the FA. It may be usefull on other models I don't know. Second, The AI lenses are older and you're taking the chance that they won't serve you as long. That's not to say that a 22 year old AIS is any better than a 23 year old AI. But I don't believe you can get an AI any newer than 1977 and you can still buy new AIS lenses. A lot of the AIS models retained the AI formulas so I don't know if there is any advantage and I guess it would depend on the exact model. I hope this helps. Have a great daY!! Howard
From Kid Yeager (Sun Sep 12 11:01:07 1999 ):
Hello there. I am new to the Nikon family, having just purchased over E-Bay (god help me) a Nikon FM2 with a 50mm 1.4 lens. I have a couple of questions. 1) The camera does not come with a lens cap for the body or for the lens. Can anyone tell me how to go about getting lens caps? Is it as easy as going to the local camera store and simply purchasing one? How much do they go for? For the lens, do I need a cap for the back as well as the front? 2) Does the UV filter affect the picture in any way (on B&W film or color) other than reducing haze? I know there's no exposure compensation that is necessary, but I want to make sure it also won't affect the colors in any way. 3) My plan is actually to sell the 50mm 1.4 lens and to get a 50mm 1.8. Most of the stuff I've read as said that there isn't great advantage for having the 1.4 lens, especially considering the cost difference. Also, this particular lens is an AIS, and I would prefer to have an AI. From what I have seen, it seems to me that I should be able to get about $200 for a 50mm 1.4 AIS lens, and then I should be able to buy a 50mm 1.8 for $100. Are these numbers correct? Thanks everyone. I look forward to discussing and learning photography and the Nikon system as I get my camera and begin to take pictures. Thanks!!!
From MC Lau (Thu Oct 7 10:02:56 1999 ):
Hi Val... The different models of the FM series are very similar in construction and specification. The upgrades were basically in the top shutter speed and sync speed. The shutters were of different construction too. Check up the MIR web page http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/index.htm
From Howard Passman (Mon Oct 4 23:34:29 1999 ):
Ed, If you're anywhere near the Wshington D.C. area you could try Mora's Camera Service 4027 Brandywine Street, N.W. Washington, D.C. 20016 CLOSED MONDAY TUES-FRIDAY 10:00-6:00 SATURDAY 10:00-2:00 George Mora They have a very good reputation in this area for Nikon and I have had some work done there. Good Luck, Howard
From Val (Mon Oct 4 04:34:20 1999 ):
Interested in purchasing used FM. Could someone please tell me what is the difference and advantages if any between the FM, FM2, FM2N. Thank you!
From Ed Spencer (Mon Oct 4 01:11:19 1999 ):
Anyone know of any independent repair shops in the U.S. where I can get my wonderful old FM (sn# 2295766) repaired? The mirror does not go back into place after I shoot and, now, I can't get it to advance. The advance lever won't go forward--like I'm at the end of a roll of film. Thanks.
From Lars (Mon Sep 27 18:01:54 1999 ):
L. R. Sweeney - Try @ http://www.cameraweb.com/manuals.htm
From L. R. Sweeney (Sat Sep 25 14:24:17 1999 ):
Need a "repair" manual for the FM2 - stuck shutter Any help greatly appreciated. tia - larry

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| Nikon F | Nikon F2 | Nikon F3 | Nikon F4 | Nikkormat(s) |
| Nikon FM Series | Nikon FE Series | EMFGFG20 |
| Nikkor Resources | Series-E optics |

| Back | Index Page of Michael Liu's Nikon SLR Models
| Back | Main Index Page of Pictorial History of Nikon SLRs

* The Eyes of Nikon ...

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