Nikon FM Series - Archived Message Board/Guestbook 001-050

Nikon FM2n w/Nikkor Zoom.jpg (38k) Loading...

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon FM Series - Archived 001-050 Message Board/Guestbook

From Lars (Tue Feb 13 18:33:36 2001 ):
Martin! - For an introduction to AI modification see http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/repair/aimod/aimod.htm
From Susan (Mon Feb 12 09:26:42 2001 ):
Hello , I just bought a used Nikon FM 10 and new batteries, film and lens . then shutter button seems to depres but nothing happens no l.e.d.'s light in the viewfinder no sound ,and he film advance lever doesn't seem to move all the way either , I do notice the the depth of field works ok but without the shutter and film lever seems kinda useless . this is my first manual camera all my it others are point and click , can someone tell me if this camera is broken or do I just need a clue if so does anyone have info to help me? Thanks susan
From Martin (Sun Feb 11 20:00:25 2001 ):
How to modify a non-AI Nikkor for my FM10?
From Kelvin Prince (Sun Feb 11 09:37:04 2001 ):
Any one know the optimum shutter speed for the FM. I think I'm being thick
From Jackhoe (Thu Mar 1 01:30:35 2001 ):
Any indication how much will the FM3A cost us ? Will the FM2 be still made available ? The revised price for the FM2n is ridiculously high in my country. I hope the new camera won't cost a bomb too !
From Desmond (Mon Feb 26 13:32:09 2001 ):
Dan, it is an FE
From DAN MOTT (Mon Feb 26 07:59:13 2001 ):
I WAS GIVEN AN ANTIQUE NIKON FROM A RELITIVE WHO DIED. IT CAME WITH THREE LENSES, A STANDARD LENS, A ZOOM/MACRO LENS, AND A 28MM WIDE ANGLE LENS. THE CAMERA WAS STOLEN FROM ME AND I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO IDENTIFY WHAT MODEL IT WAS AND WHAT IT WAS WORTH. IT WAS BLACK, HAD THE LED LEVER BATTERY MONITER, THE FILM ADVANCE LEVER TURNED ON THE LIGHT METER, THE LIGHT METER WAS MATCH NEEDLE METERING, IT HAD A SELF TIMER, AND TOOK TWO 1.55V BATTERIES TO OPPERATE. I'M HAVING A ROUGH TIME FINDING THE RIGHT MODEL AND A GOOD PICTURE IF ANYONE COULD HELP ME IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
From mukund bhute (Sat Feb 24 01:35:52 2001 ):
2001 FM series new camera i want to see & bay in india (maharashtra).
From Lars (Fri Feb 23 17:32:28 2001 ):
Apostolos - your understanding of "needle metering " is fine! The exposuree compensation is coupled to the needle - that is the needle will indicate the suggested exposure with compensation. The indicator indicates the user chosen shutter. My point was: since there is both a needle and an indicator the meter should work in M mode. But after crital rethinking I see there is a hypothetical possibility that the two are not meant to work together! In any case Nikon is not stating this, and I still strongly believes that M mode will indeed be metered. We shall soon know for sure.
From nicolas (Fri Feb 23 10:03:45 2001 ):
i sell my FM2/T by auctions on ebay. it is in perfect condition. http://cgi.fr.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1216928767
From Apostolos (Fri Feb 23 07:20:42 2001 ):
Lars - I've never used a camera with a match-needle meter, but according to what I've read so far, these meters are battery depended. Moreover, I can't understand why do you mention "indicator AND needle". Aren't these two meant to work together? I've read in the Photographer's Handbook and various other web sites that the indicator shows the shutter speed chosen by the user and the needle shows the deviaton from the shutter speed that should be chosen, according to the meter. Once the indicator and the needle coinside, the meter-sugested exposure is achieved. In the case of a camera that sets shutter speeds automatically, once would wonder why is there the need for the needle. The answer is the exposure compensation function, that allows for deliberate deviation.
From Lars (Thu Feb 22 00:13:17 2001 ):
Apostolos - I think you misinterpret it! Note the "without batteries" part! Nikon says "without batteries the battery dependent meter won't work"! This is no big surprise. Please have another look at my reasoning bellow. Why would there be a need for both an indicator AND a needle (like in FE2) IF there was no metering in M mode? How do I now there is both an indicator and a needle? I had a look in the "katalog" at www.nikon.cz
From Apostolos (Wed Feb 21 06:04:23 2001 ):
Guys, this is transfered directly, via copy-paste from Nikon FM3A's press release posted on the Japanese site, English version: "The user can release the shutter without batteries, but the camera s built-in exposure meter will not work." Well, it clearly says that the built-in exposure meter will *not* work. I know, it makes no sense, it's hard to believe, but it's there, loud and clear - the damn meter doesn't work when full manual is engaged. I really wish it was otherwise, and I don't know what to make out of this. I would like to read what's stated at the UK site, since it seems that there's a discrepancy concerning this topic, but due to software problems I don't have access there (some troubles with ActiveX files). I'll try to fix it and see what's written there, but in the meanwhile, pay a visit to www.nikon.co.jp and check out the press release for yourselves.
From Divia (Tue Feb 20 18:53:11 2001 ):
I have an OLD nikon that has recently been handed to me by an uncle. It has no visible model number and I have been wanting to find that out for a while now. Today I finally noticed a number etched at the back saying FM 2272758---is it part of the Nikon FM series?? How do I know what model Nikon I have?? -Divia New Delhi, India
From Hermann Graf (Wed Mar 14 17:54:01 2001 ):
To RobWired: When you have to impression that your flashlight is too strong for fill-in, it's not necessary to buy a new flash. You can use a bouncer or a softbox, as available from, e.g., Lumiquest. Or you can manipulate the settings on the flash (film speed, aperture) or choose a wider distance than suggested by the flash scale. Rgds. Hermann Graf
From RobWired (Tue Mar 13 14:10:43 2001 ):
I have an SB-15 Speedlight that is obviously too strong to use for indoor fill-flash. (Outdoors, fine!) Can anyone recommend a flash for indoor use, such as at an exhibition hall or convention center, or for fairly close shots to the subject in a fully-lighted auditorium? These are the conditions I would most have use for an indoor fill-flash. I have an early '80s FM2n with 1/250 sync.
From stephannie (Sun Mar 11 06:33:32 2001 ):
I just bought a used FM10, yes i live in central america!!! and i don't fidn it to be such a bad camera..at least for what i want it for...i just have one question ..i used to have another NIkon that got stolen but i used a vivitar 30-200mm lens can i still use it with this camera? i know i can check but i dont have the camera yet so i cant test it
From flinks (Thu Mar 8 21:27:05 2001 ):
I have been using Nikon cameras for quite a while. I used to own a FM, FE and upgraded to a FM2; finally settled down with a FM2n 5 years back. I don't chase after brands now. Nikon used to produce very well made cameras and rarely gives you any headache. This website deserves more than just a mention, it is indeed a rare find on Net where it relates to camera information. The content is detailed, truthful and very informative. I have enjoyed every minute of my last three days while visiting here in your site and my best compliment to your hard work. Thank you.
From Lars (Sun Mar 4 20:00:28 2001 ):
Manuel - you are likely to face problems with any of these bodies if you try to mount a unmodified pre-lens. Read more on AI modifiacation @ http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/repair/aimod/aimod.htm
From Manuel Cochofel (Sun Mar 4 01:05:58 2001 ):
I've got some older Nikkor lenses (C and H series) that fit my Nikkormat FTn body. Since I'm having problems with this body, I would like to buy another one. Can someone tell me wich of the following bodies work well with the above mentioned lenses: FM-10, Fe-10 and FM-2? Thanks!!
From rootaccess (Sat Mar 3 23:19:12 2001 ):
FM3a is already launch in US.(I assume) since it is up in their homepage. I have this hunch that it is gonna be like much more expensive then FM2n. By the way, I have a FM2n, really great investment. =)
From Mwiz (Sat Mar 3 20:41:51 2001 ):
HELP! I own a (1977) Nikon FM. My problem is the film advance lever keeps freezing(jamming?). I have had the camera repaired twice by a "Certified" Nikon repair shop however, I can't get through one roll of film before the film advance freezes again. Can anyone recommend a solution/repair shop? Thanks
From Jojine (Sat Mar 3 11:48:59 2001 ):
To Jackhoe: Thee is someone who posted a message at the Nikon FE Board (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/feseriesmsg/feseries.msql) claimed he has seen and hand handled a pre-launch Nikon FM3A. May be you can ask him. I liked the idea od the camera - but if the price gone way out of my financial reach, that is just too bad for Nikon because I can settled with my FM2n.
From Rob Cotton (Sat Mar 3 00:08:43 2001 ):
I have an old Nikon FM. I have recently added an MD-12 motor drive to it. The camera with motor drive works great, but now I find that when I remove the motor drive, the camera no longer will fire or allow film advance. It's like the camera body likes the MD-12 and doesn't want to work by itself anymore. Not that I blame it, but does anyone have a suggestion on what may have happened and what I might do to fix it? Thanks. Rob Cotton
From Charlie (Tue Mar 27 05:35:52 2001 ):
I have been having FM10 overexposure problems like those reported by *Luis Norton* (Oct 21 2000). The FM10 is the 3rd manual SLR I've used so although I'm no expert, I do have some experience. This has been a problem from the beginning - in low light and cloudy situations the meter is just fine. In bright sun, there is a definite tendency to overexpose. Otherwise the FM10 works fine. Thinking that maybe the FM10 has a CdS cell, which has a sun "memory" problem, I called Nikon Tech Support to find out. First they claimed they couldn't tell me what type of photocell is in the FM10 because that's proprietary (competitive) information. I replied that was ridiculous since the FM10 is their bottom of the line camera. Finally they told me the FM10 has a Silicon Photo Diode cell. So I still don't know what the problem is. Anyone know ?
From Chennov (Fri Mar 23 19:49:48 2001 ):
I would like to know if the FM2n still get the support from Nikon after the FM3A is introduced. Will it be a replacement models for FM2n ? Next, why the blackj chrome version of the FM2n is more expensive than the chrome version ? Lastly, well, I think the FM3A's retail price is way too high for general public - but nice to see an innovative idea of introducing a hybrid model between FE2 and FM2n. My heart tells me that should be a good camera, but my pocket says..."Not yet".
From Lars (Wed Mar 21 17:38:31 2001 ):
Leonard! With the FM3A coming up, calling the Nikorex and F-301 the LAST to be featured seems wonderfully premature!
From Leonard (Wed Mar 21 01:01:04 2001 ):
After a week long Private Previews by co-developers and some Bugs-Fixing sessions, the long promised Nikon F2 SLR models site should be "safe" enough to let it going "live". It has a separate F2 Message Board on its own. I am sorry for the long wait and thank you for all the patience. The uploading of the site also signifies the LAST two remaining Nikon manual focus (MF) SLR bodies that still have not been featured in this PIM website in the ENTIRE Nikon SLR family are the Nikkorex and F-301 (Often called N2000 in US market) where I have to admit that I am not so familiar about. Anyway, hope all of you would enjoy the new site ! Bye.
From Erick Cojulún (Wed Mar 21 00:22:39 2001 ):
I have an original FM2 (1982) and a Nikon FE (my favorite). I am from Guatemala (located in Central America); I enjoy photographing frequently. But, I just want to make a question, if anyone of you can help me... If it's possible, I'd like to know a place on the web to ask for a bottom mounting plate for FE or FM2 because my old FE was almost destroyed for a repair service man here in the city, and the top mounting plate was change for a new one FE2 (silver). Taking into consideration my original FE was black, it looks different with silver top plate, so I'm considering to change the bottom plate to a silver one instead of the orginal black one. Please provide a fair price as I cannot afford too high of a cost for the replacement part. Regards and thanks again! - Erick Cojulún - Guatemala, Central America (Alternate Email: ecojulun@yahoo.com)
From Jeff (Tue Mar 20 19:07:37 2001 ):
I am owning three of these models of the FM2n. FM2/T and FM2n Dragon are NOT the same. I am very certain the FM2n Dragon is not a Titanium made FM2n like the FM2/T (nor it has finishes like the F3/T). However, when it was announced earlier, I thought it was - so I ended up with an unit from my dealer here (but with no regret). It has a brighter and smoother chrome finish which makes it distinguishably different in its exterior appearance when compared with normal version of the FM2n chrome bodies. Well, that doesn't make it a Titanium FM2n ! -Jeff-
From Pieter Hofland (Mon Mar 19 01:19:58 2001 ):
Q: is the millenium edition FM2n titan or not. Some sites say it is, others don't mention it. thanx!
From Spiros (Fri Mar 16 19:19:24 2001 ):
TO ROBBIE:As for 50 mm lenses, you can use AF and MF versions. You may get the cheap MF f/1.8 and AF f/1.8 (these don't have the same optics) or the expensives MF f/1.4 and AF f/1.4. All these lenses are above 4.1 rated in MTF tests (look at photodo.com) Mine MF 50mm f/1.8 does not perform as it should, but still isn't bad. Note that in generally, AF versions aren't as good as MF versions in manually focusing, but you will not have any problem with the 50 mm's. My opinion: if you can afford go for the AF f/1.4. If you can't, go for the AF f/1.8. MF f/1.4 is too expensive and MF f/1.8 ..., well, I still don't know if mine is just a bad sample. As for other lenses: FM 10 functions OK with all AF lenses, Nikkors or third party, but manual focusing on many of them isn't the best. Hope it helps.
From Robbie Gaston (Fri Mar 16 16:05:03 2001 ):
I'm planning to get an FM-10, but would like a 50mm lens to use with it as I heard this would take better quality pictures than the 35-70mm lens that the camera comes with.Can I use a nikon AF lens with the FM-10? What other lenses can I use with the FM-10? Thanks in advance for any info!
From Sandy (Fri Mar 16 09:40:44 2001 ):
We have the FM2 and our motor drive quit working can you tell me were there is a Nikon dealer Northern Ill. We live near Sterling Il. We would really like to replace the motor drive
From Charlie (Fri Apr 6 22:12:50 2001 ):
to JWoods and Hermann Graf - Thanks for your replies. After doing some controlled tests of my FM10 in shade, side lighting, and direct sun and after reviewing previous shots, I have concluded that: 1. the camera and meter do not require repairs; 2. changing old batteries (2.75 v) for new (3.0 v) makes no difference; 3. the FM10 center-weighted metering in direct sun is too many times biased and may overexpose the shot by 1 or 2 stops; a recent example was a well-lit mostly drab scene for which my FM10 recommended 1/60 at f/16, my primitive handheld meter recommended 1/250 at f/16 for 200 speed (color print) film, and the actual best shot was 1/125 at f/16; 4. more bracketing is necessary when there's more sun. No, I'm not happy with this but I've wasted enough energy and money doing tests and now it's time to get back to actual photography!
From G.Kristensen (Thu Apr 5 11:27:04 2001 ):
I have a FM2n. I don't know much about the 50mm f/1.8 -although I have a f/1.4, "JWood" is quite right at that remarks at that Message Board, where I felt the ame way too - shooting at available light in door with the lens set wide open is far from satisfactory but I like the effect. Anyway, as far as I know the E series optical design was copied and used for the current AF f/1.8. Does that mean Nikon also felt the "Nikon" E-series optical design is more superior than older "Nikkor" lenses ? In relation to your "Wish List" in relation to SLR camera.... I think it only takes a FMer or FEer to understand how size can make people enjoy more with photography. The FM3A is, I am totally agreed with you is a tremendous effort to bring that old feel back to Nikon cameras. Strange the Yen is so weak which I think it was intnded to boost their export, why prices aren't coming down for their cameras and lenses ? Regards. G.K.
From jeff (Wed Apr 4 22:41:37 2001 ):
A gentleman named "JWoods" posted a highly debatable lens finding on the Nikon FE Message Board. But I agreed with his remarks on the bulkiness of SLR cameras. The FM3A is a good effort when it comes to size (not the price) which means it is still possible to design a SLR camera with more features while retaining similar compactness of the body - I hope manufacturers realizes this important element. Well, one the other hand, I think power consumption is a MAJOR issue to overcome to realize such ideal fact where autofocus mechanism really consume a lot of battery power. So, fact remains - such ideal compactness may only confine to non-AF models. Any other opinion ?
From Nick (Sat Mar 31 12:36:14 2001 ):
Karen, read this section: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/macro/index.htm The trick for macrophotography is actually Magnification Ratio. Your question relating to the lens has another Message Board at: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/lenses/optic.msql The Nikon FM is a very reliable camera and I am still using one along with my autofocus N90 ! Regards, Nick, CA.
From Karen J (Sat Mar 31 11:19:08 2001 ):
My first 35mm camera was a Kokak Retinette 1A. My last camera (the one I've used for 25 years is Nikon FM. When the foam disintegrated inside I had a rough time finding someone to repair it (I was told by Cal's Cameras that Nikon factory service returned it, advising that it couldn't be repaired) but I kept searching and did finally find a local shop (Anaheim, California) that gave it a complete overhaul. It's perfect again! In case anyone's interested, the shop is Armand's on Tustin Avenue in Anaheim. I love my FM! I wouldn't use anything else! If anyone has had experience with photographing close up graphics and small items, please email me with advice on what lens to buy. I have a 50mm and 80mm...I'm thinking 135mm?! Yes? No? Thanks and happy FM'ing to all!
From mklamb (Thu Mar 29 06:13:26 2001 ):
Hi Divia, The easiest way of finding out what model it is look on the speed dial 1. FM: If the 125 is in red 2. FM2: If the 200 is in red and x200 is also available 3. FM2n: If the 250 is in red. Hope this helps.
From Park (Wed Mar 28 12:55:07 2001 ):
My first Nikon was a FM-10. That was a bad experience and after two rounds of servicing, eventually I told my wife that I will gave up and thought I will never become a photographer. I turned to an old Nikon FM when a friend offered me his. My system grew since then and I have added a Nikon FE2 but the FM remains my clear favorite with a super-SHARP 105mm f/2.5 Nikkor lens (I have 6 lenses now). I have never been enjoyed so much in photography if not for the decision that I have made (and probably ended up with a Point adn Shoot camera). This site which has influenced me to take up my old FM that day deserves a great deal than just a mention. I would like to take this opputunity to thank all of you for creating such a wonderful resources on the Internet. Regards. -Park, CA-
From Hermann Graf (Tue Mar 27 21:04:41 2001 ):
To Charly and JWoods: Also in a modern AF camera with matrix metering, there is no absolute guarantee for a proper exposure. First, the meter is not color-sensitive (except perhaps the one in the F5), and the matrix metering evaluation program relies on the statistical evaluation of, as it is claimed by Nikon, 36,000 shots; the results may be right in perhaps 90% of the cases. For the remaining 10%, there are the following means: 1) metering with a grey card, 2) using a hand-held meter in light mode, or/and 3) bracketting. I do not want to say that the results thus obtained are perfect in any case (depends very much on personal taste), but they are constant. Note that the hand-held meter should be equipped with a silicon photo cell.
From JWoods (Tue Mar 27 14:26:39 2001 ):
**Charlie**: All metering systems currently employ in MOST 35mm SLRs are programmed to function where they compute input of data via reading of the distribution of light across the view field by metering cell(s) inside the camera. Hence suggests a reading where it is given inside the viewfinder for you to refer. Each types of metering cell(s) used may behave and operate differently from one another (see: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/htmls/index5.htm). However, we should not always take it for granted that TTL-metering system used in today's SLR camera as a total solution. Most of the metering systems employ in many older manual focus SLR camera are, quite "primitive" in comparison to a modern autofocus SLR but they should also be adequately sufficient for most metering references. There are more specific ways to help us deal with such situations. The trick is actually quite simple. First, we MUST learn and know how the distribution of the metering sensitivity works in each of our camera used (Center-weighted metering ratio such as 60/4; 80/20, 75/25 etc.) NEXT, you have to "train" your eyes to read things appear in the viewfinder as "gray scale" with a specific neutral 18% gray because that is the value metering circuitry used as a reference mark inside ANY SLR camera. In theory - Anything MORE or LESS than the 18% gray would require certain EXPOSURE COMPENSATION to enable a more acceptable exposure. In most cases, the exposure latitude of modern films used should be forgiving enough for a stop or two out of range metering. That's why you will still be able to see details in shadow or view them in overexposed highlights on prints or slides. So, I may have to agree - your case where"...in low light and cloudy situations the meter is just fine. In bright sun, there is a definite tendency to overexpose..... " is a little unusual. The best way, to be more certain that was not a human error is to conduct a self-test by burning some cash, get a roll or two shot with varying degree of exposures in different lighting conditions, process and evaluate the results. IF you have any of those results, please use the board to publish for others to help you identify the probable cause (Don't mail me as I think I know what I am metering about ...peace.).
From JWoods (Tue Mar 27 13:15:11 2001 ):
**Chennov**: Black chrome version usually sells more than standard chrome bodies - that - probably was originated from the seventies where many 35mm SLR manufacturers has took advantage of changing trends while portraying "black" has a more professional taste and look than the chrome. In many ways that was true where black is less eye-catching and less offensive for photojournalists to cover news and reportage photography. Trend changed again during the mid-'80 whereby camera manufacturers such as Canon argued lenses should be produced in lighter color such as "WHITE" because light colors should be able to counter less problem with heat - which in directly would minimize possibilities of shifting (deformed) optical elements inside the lens due to extreme change of temperatures. Well, that was probably explained why Canon has decided to stick to their in-house developed artificial Fluorite for encountering Chromatic aberrations in many of their super telephoto lenses. Fluorite has a optical tendency which is more sensitive to heat changes than ED glasses which was used by Nikon. But since that theory sells very well for Canon professional users, many amateurs followed what the pros thought... So now - people are actually (and stupidly) paying a high premium for those lenses in WHITE which has different objective of "patching a flaw" over the choice of material used.... I share many of your thought on the FM3A, it was made way too expensive by Nikon for many casual shooters like us.
From Alam (Sun Apr 15 20:17:18 2001 ):
Hi Folks! Has anyone a hands on experience of the new FM3a? They say it is a combination of FM2 and FE2. How does the viewfinder look? Like FE2s or FM2s? Would you say it is better than both? A price of $600 looks rather steep. Any comments?
From Jensen (Sat Apr 14 12:11:31 2001 ):
I like this Board and despite I thought I knew a lot about Nikon bodies. I have learnt a fair bit of things that I am not aware of all these while with my FM2n camera (I have got a FE but someone offered me a FM2n a year back and I grew to like it more now). Thank you all of you who has spent so much time maintaining this board. Frankly, Leonard, I do hope you can also spend a little of your time, give us a review on the forthcoming Nikon FM3A. I would love to see your personal opinion.
From Wilson (Thu Apr 12 11:18:18 2001 ):
Well, Jack - I think that section can even create more confusion to a new user. Basically, OTHER THAN the Nikon FM - ALL other FM2 models should not be encouraged to use with Non-AI lenses (but It is NOT necessary mean it cannot be mounted onto a AI-camera and use it without metering but certain "quarter" of users said it MAY damaged the meter coupling ring). Well, if I explain more, it can be even create more confusion than that section at the F2 site ....
From Jackson (Thu Apr 12 00:46:48 2001 ):
Hi.. fellow FMers, I came across a section in the Nikon F2 site which may explain to some of you who still wants to know about the non-AI and stopped down metering, see: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/prisms/index6.htm I thought that was an interesting read, especially to the older FE and FM owners. Cheers !
From Charlie (Wed Apr 11 04:21:56 2001 ):
According to Tomosy's "Nikon Camera Repair Handbook", the FM and FM2 have 2 trim pots on their light metering circuit boards, one for adjusting low light metering and the other for bright light. This means that the metering could be correct for low light and not for bright light, or vice versa. Does my FM10 have similar metering, which could explain the problem I've been having? I don't know, and I'm not taking it apart to find out!
From Paul (Sun Apr 8 23:28:42 2001 ):
Hi Karen, you got me worried about the foam, what and where is it, I also have a FM, first model. Thank you. Paul.

Messages : 001-050 | 051-100 | 101-150 | 151-200 | 201-250 | 251-300 | 301-350 | 351-400 | 401-450 | 451-500 | 501-550 | 551-600 | 601-650

| Back | to Index Page of Nikon FM Series SLR Camera(s)
| Back | to Message Board for Nikon FM Series Bodies

| Nikon F | Nikon F2 | Nikon F3 | Nikon F4 | Nikkormat(s) |
| Nikon FM Series | Nikon FE Series | EMFGFG20 |
| Nikkor Resources | Series-E optics |

| Back | Index Page of Michael Liu's Nikon SLR Models
| Back | Main Index Page of Pictorial History of Nikon SLRs

* The Eyes of Nikon ...

Home - Photography in Malaysia

Copyright © 1999. leofoo ®. MIR Web Development Team. Credit: MCLau, EEWyn, CyLeow, Chuck Hester, Ted Wengelaar etc. Made with a PowerMac, broadcast with a Redhat Linux powered server.