- From Darrell
(Thu Jan 13 02:09:37 2000 ):
I have recently purchased a Nikon F3 AF. I am looking for a manual for it could someone
please turn me on to a site on the web that offers one.
- From lionel (Mon Jan 10 23:59:24 2000 ):
thought you guys might want to know that Nikon has finally released the AS-17 flash
shoe adapter for the F3(check out the Nikon website)!! TTL flash is finally possible
with a standard ISO hotshoe mounting. Why did they take almost twenty years to come
up with this little thing???
- From R.BANGAYAN (Thu Jan 6 14:31:33 2000 ):
I bought my F3 way back in 1983 and until today I'm still using it, I also use a
MD4 winder and SB-12 as flash, more power to Nikon !
- From Shouta (Tue Dec 28 12:24:51 1999 ):
This is the first time to write this board. I have two F3, one is F3P and another
is F3 titan champanu color. These are my main ordinary use camera. Recently My F3T
LCD is darked and M mark is almost disappear. This is life time as mentioned Nikon
Manual. They showed that LCD life time is about 7-8 years. My F3 bought about 15
years ago. So this is long case I think. Nikon sevice center can change LCD meter
unit by some cost. So I will bring the camera next year. I live in Shizuoka Japan.
- From Walt (Sat Dec 25 04:53:59 1999 ):
I have had an F3HP since 1996 and the hunred's digit of the LCD display has several
segments out. This has just happened in the last month, so i guess it has a pretty
long life. I don't know when my camera was made, so I don't know exactly how old
it is. Does anyone know if Nikon has a serial number vs date of manufacture list?
I would sure like to know how old it is. Thanks.
- From David
Navarrete (Fri Dec 24 05:00:01 1999 ):
Hello F3 Fans, I've had my F3 since 1983. If the warning about the life time of LCD
panels is true then we'll be seeing a lot of complaints about failing displays by
now. Actually, something has gone wrong with mine. As the number of darkened segments
in the display increases the other segments start to darken also; up to a point where
the display shows +, -, M, 8860. When set to auto the only readable speeds are from
4 secs to 1/15 sec. When in manual, since the M is already darkened, and added to
it the speed display, all the segments become darkened. I've taken the display apart
and cleaned the rubber contact strips, but it did not correct the fault. Rarely,
the display will just work fine, then just go back to its faulty state. Any similar
experiences out there? Is it really the LCD panel that's gone bad? BTW I just bought
an F90x, WHICH HAS TWO LCD PANELS!! I would be just as happy with an FM2n - maybe
I'll just save for it as a third body. Regards, David
- From Walt (Tue Dec 21 23:35:24 1999 ):
Am thinking about purchasing a MD-4 for my F3, but am not sure how loud it is. Can
anyone tell me what the noise level is on this winder? Thanks.
- From gail (Mon Dec 20 05:01:43 1999 ):
Great site!!! Just purchased my first used md4 for my F3....needed the operating
manual and here it was....thanks a lot!!!
- From JMG (Sat Dec 18 22:47:17 1999 ):
I´ve lost the e-mail of Mr.Vladimir Antonov. Just thanks a lot for your help
(I´ve just got your poste five minutes ago). Thank you very much, Vlady.
- From Antonio
Barragan (Fri Dec 17 20:31:37 1999 ):
Dear All I am looking for an online instruction manual for the Nikon Speedlight flash
SB-17. any help will be greatly welcome Thanks
- From AD (Sun Feb 13 06:39:34 2000 ):
Greetings fellow F3 users! I recently (finally) purchased a used F3/T and MD-4, of
which the F3/T (black) was in EX+ condition, and the MD-4 in EX condition. I was
wondering though, if there was any way to tell whether or not I have been duped.
On the F3 page on this site (thanks to Mr. Leo Foo for the excellent information)
it is stated: "The Nikon F3/T, a special uersion of the Nikon F3 High-Eyepoint
camera, uses titanium for its right and left top covers, baseplate, camera back,
and the pentaprism cover of the viewfinder." However on my version, I can not
tell any difference on the back (film) cover. It is not the same texture as the top
and bottom covers of the camera; instead it is smooth, like the "regular"
F3 (non-titanium). Is the back film cover -really- supposed to be made of titanium,
or have I been somewhat cheated? ... or is the back cover -supposed- to be smooth
(edges, not the leather-like textured area) ?? ... Any information regarding this
is much appreciated! Warmest Regards, AD
- From Walt (Sat Feb 5 11:26:09 2000 ):
To Ovid GSD: The MD-4 supplies power to the camera when it is attached, regardless
of the on-off switch position. That is why you got meter readings with the MD-4 in
place. Check the film wind action of the MD-4 by putting in a roll of film and, leaving
the back open, trigger the MD-4 on "single shot" and see if the film advances.
All the winder does is advance the film. It has no effect on the shutter operation
or aperture. Only reason I can think of that the film was unexposed was the film
was not engaged properly on the take-up spool.
- From John
Owlett (Sat Feb 5 01:42:23 2000 ):
@@@ Kai @@@ I'm just an F3 user, rather than a repairman, but nobody more knowledgeable
has replied in more than 24 hours, so here is a suggestion: try to find out whether
it is the lens or the camera which is at fault. Do you know anyone else who has a
Nikon? Try using your lens on their body and one of their lenses on your body.
There are a few thing you don't say in you question that may help others respond.
What is the focal length of your lens? (If it's your only lens and is a 1:1.4, then
I guess it must be a 50mm.) Are you sure that you have a DE2 viewfinder? (It's the
ordinary F3 which comes with a DE2. The F3HP comes with a DE3. If the viewfinder
says "HP" on the front, just above the lens, then it's a DE3.) When you
take the photos (which later turn out to be unsharp) are you able to focus them sharply
on the screen in the viewfinder? When you focus on a distant object (say, 2km away)
and have a sharp image on the screen, does the scale on the lens show infinity? If
the camera is some years old, then I presume it is no longer under guarantee, but
were you able to get any help from the shop where you bought it? What did they say?
- From OvidGSD (Fri Feb 4 05:25:20 2000 ):
Just got the MD-4 drive for my F3HP. Shot 2nd half of one roll, and 1 full 36exp.
roll. When I got them processed - ALL SHOTS WITH THE MD-4 WERE BLANK - UNEXPOSED.
Hmmm. So today I checked all functions. Put 24exp. roll in, took 8 shots w/out MD-4,
took 8 w/MD-4 single fire mode, took last 8/w MD-4 full auto. Developed. ALL SHOTS
EXPOSED, PERFECTLY. Now, the only possible difference is that with the UNEXPOSED
shots, the camera may have been set to the off position (I don't remember - BUT I
am certain I was getting light meter readings). The shots that did work, the camera
was in the on position for certain. Ok, so where does this leave me. Is my MD-4 working
correctly or not? Its used, so I need to go return it soon if I am to get my money
back. Or maybe it was just the camera being in the off position (which as I said
I'm not even sure it was). Many many thanks for any suggestions!
- From John
Owlett (Thu Feb 3 21:37:42 2000 ):
@@@ Evan @@@ The AIS lens is the one where both numbers for the minimum aperture
are orange. It has a ridge at the back to tell the F3 what aperture you're using,
so do NOT change the exposure when you press the DOF button. The F3 has no way of
knowing the aperture of the non-AI lens, so ALWAYS hold the DOF button down while
metering with it.
- From Kai
M. Klemm (Thu Feb 3 03:30:43 2000 ):
I need help! I bought an F3hp (new) some years ago for my wife when we came into
some extra cash. Neither of us are experieced photographers but the camera had been
recommended by one of the popular photography magazines as the most rugged, trouble-free,etc.
The problem is that the camera has never given clear, sharpely focused pictures.
We have tried everything from different brands of film to different developers. Even
when the camera is stopped down to f16, the photos are not sharp. I tried shooting
a series of shots of news papers mounted on a board set at an angle to the plane
of the camera to see if the range finder was off. None of the print was really sharp.
The camera has the 1:1.4 lens and the DE2 view finder. My wife said dump the camera,
I just can't do that. Can anyone tell me what to do? Thanks Kai M Klemm
- From Evan
O'Malley (Tue Feb 1 04:06:58 2000 ):
I Just recently purchased a Nikon F3 HP, I love it so far. One issue is that I have
an ai/s lens, and a non-ai lens. I don't know which one is AI. But when I am using
both, the meter suggestion changes when I depress the depth of field preview. Is
this normal? Should I go on the suggestion without closing the aperture? Anyway,
I think the F3 is an outstanding camera, and I hope it lasts a good long time.
- From pmjensen (Fri Jan 28 14:05:48 2000 ):
Just picked up an SB-16A from eBay; well, great. Now how the heck does this thing
work? Can any of you owners of SB-16s out there be induced to cluing this poor fool
in? Please? Or, alternatively, anyone know of a PDF instruction manual anywhere?
Thanks.
- From Joe
Ochoa (Mon Jan 17 13:49:49 2000 ):
I have 2 Nikon F3's, 1-F3,1-F3HP, MD-4 on the HP, and dedicated SB-17, these camera's
have held up through some very tough situations, I have put up with all the ribbing
about how much better it Canon F1 is and the Pentax, and the funny thing is My F-3's
just keep on going while the other "better" camera's always seem to need
some work. I still have not had black out on the LCD's, but I'm sure it will happen,
till then, I will keep on shooting, I average about 110 rolls a year. well thanx
for listening
- From Maintainer
of PIM (Fri Jan 14 11:30:21 2000 ):
IF you can wait, the new revised Nikon F3 site will be uploaded after compilation.
A Nikon F3 AF section is also included with the User's manual prepared in HTML format.
IF you can't - then try commercial outlets like http://www.craigcamera.com or mail
John Craig for a quote, it should be around US20-25.00 a copy.
- From Pict88 (Fri Feb 25 08:31:55 2000 ):
Hi there, I deperatly need my camera (Nikon F3) cleaned. However I don't know where
to take it. Some where in the bay area (SF, California etc.)Anyone know anything
please send me some info. Thanks
- From Walt (Thu Feb 24 12:08:19 2000 ):
To: Paulynn The Nikon E-series lenses were introduced in the late 1970's as a lower-cost
camera system. They were intended for use with the E-series cameras, such as the
EM. The primary difference between the E-series lenses and the standard Nikon F lenses
is the method of manufacture. The F lenses were hand assembled and the E-series was
machine assembled. Lesser materials were used in the E lenses. Some assembly points
were glued rather than screwed and more plastics were used in the barrel. Internal
parts were also made of lesser materials. Some of the E-series lenses were reasonably
good, but some are best forgotten. The "NIKON SYSTEM HANDBOOK" by "Moose"
Peterson, gives a good summary of the E-series lenses and gives you the why and wherefore
about which of the E lenses were good and which were not so good.
- From JWoods (Thu Feb 24 10:36:32 2000 ):
Well, although it is not relative to the camera directly, but you can check out this
section for more info: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/eserieslenses/index.htm
- From paulynn (Thu Feb 24 09:42:40 2000 ):
Could someone tell me what the "Series E" designation means regarding Nikon
lenses. Thank you
- From MC (Thu Feb 24 00:11:15 2000 ):
### Ed ### The instruction manual from SB 16A and 16B is available on line right
on this site. See it here.
- From Ed (Mon Feb 21 08:23:02 2000 ):
Very informative site. I have recently aquired an SB-16 flash and am in need of the
manual. I would gladly pay for zeroxing costs & ect. Thanks You. Ed.
- From leofoo (Sat Feb 19 14:13:27 2000 ):
The NEW revised Nikon F3 site was finally uploaded last night. I
have given my personal reasons why the earlier site needs to be revamped.
Many would think the time spent might as well do something more interesting like
featuring any of the AF camera bodies where interest of majority of tthe surfers
are - anyway, as I said many times, web traffic is not my priority and there are
already so many good websites around featuring all those wonderful high-tech SLR
cameras. After all, I think photography is not all about autofocus and speed of focusing
is only added a layer of convenience and responsiveness to certain photographic situations
where it demands. Anyway, after this very tiring and time consuming project, I might
have to turn back to the long overdue Nikon F2 to fulfill my promise to Michael Liu
(A long lost figure on the Net...). I hate to think I have something outstanding
before I call it a day on the Internet just as he did... enjoy !
- From David
Navarrete (Wed Feb 16 20:33:27 2000 ):
Film Loading on the F3: The F3, being a manual film loading camera, needs extra care
and attention when being loaded. You won't get an alarm if you failed to load properly.
The following is my personal "habit" in loading my F3. 1. Once the film
leader is inserted in the take up spool, allow at least one revolution of the take
up spool before closing the back. 2. Without pressing the rewind button, GENTLY turn
the rewind knob clockwise to take up the slack. 3. Wind to the first frame and observe
that the rewind knob is turning counter-clockwise. For practice, get a spoiled film
cartidge from a photo lab and try the above procedure. Also, get a film picker so
you can reuse the spoiled cartridge over. The above procedure has other benefits.
If you change films at mid roll you can easily go back from one roll to another with
little risk of over lapping images. Play it safe - skip one frame. The film picker
is then used to retrieve the film leader of a partly used roll - in case you have
a standard camera back. Click ;-) David
- From Richard
T. Lourie Jr. (Wed Feb 16 07:47:49 2000 ):
WOW you guys are good, I have learned more from this site than from the manuals and
book that I have read. Thanks for all the work I'll be checking in more often now
that I have visited. Rich Lourie
- From David
Navarrete (Tue Feb 15 20:34:38 2000 ):
Hi, I'm back. A few months ago I posted a message regarding my F3's LCD panel going
bad. That is, all the segements darken above a certain speed when in auto and any
setting when in manual mode such that it reads "-+M 8000". Well, I found
a cure. I've taken off the leather-like cover from the front right side of the camera
and underneath the cover are several small access holes for adjustments. I squirted
a bit of electronic contact cleaner through each hole. And now the LCD panel is back
to normal. For those who may experience the same problem but are not as daring as
I am, just pass the info to your camera tech. I hope it'll help. Click ;-) David
- From John
Owlett (Thu Mar 9 18:56:44 2000 ):
@@@ Terri @@@ I started again with 35mm myself last August -- in my case after a
long friendship with a Rolleiflex TLR rather than a theft. I borrowed and read (and
later bought my own copy of) "The Nikon System Handbook" by Moose Peterson,
which -- as a Nikon neophyte -- I found entertaining and informative. There seem
to be four "cult" manual focus Nikon cameras, each of which has a large
loyal following: --- F3 --- Of course. The subject of this msg board, and the one
I chose myself. Extremely rugged, aperture priority or manual exposure, electronic
shutter with manual 1/60 sec backup. 100% viewfinder, mirror lockup, exchangeable
viewfinder. If you wear glasses, get F3HP (high-eyepoint) or F3/T (titanium). Still
available new (I have heard rumours that Nikon has just decided to make another batch)
so accessories will be available for at least 10 years. If you buy second hand, buy
an amateur-owned body -- photojournalists really hammered their F3s in the 1980s.
--- FM2n --- Completely manual (apart from the meter) so will work in extreme conditions,
and may have greater longevity than an electronic camera. Rugged, manual exposure
only, fast flash sync (1/250). Also available new, though FM2/T (titanium) may be
hard to find. Much lighter than F3 -- approx 510g compared with approx 720g. ---
FE2 --- Electronic shutter version of FM2n and, in the opinion of many, the best
lightweight camera Nikon has ever made. Rugged, aperture priority or manual exposure,
electronic shutter with manual backup, fast flash sync, TTL flash metering. Discontinued
in the 1980s, but readily available second hand. --- F2 --- Predecessor of F3 as
Nikon's top-of-range camera. Extremely rugged, completely manual body, 100% viewfinder,
mirror lockup, exchangeable viewfinder. Apart from F2/T (titanium), main differences
between F2 models is viewfinder: as well as meterless, action, waist-level, and magnifying
viewfinders there is a range of viewfinders with meters which developed as metering
technology developed. Some of the metering systems are wearing out -- the F2A may
well be your best bet for a camera that will still be going in 2040 (whether or not
you and I are still going :-).
- From Terri (Thu Mar 9 07:58:53 2000 ):
Depression....that's all I've felt since the burgle of ALL of my photographic equip.
(cameras [all formats], lenses, meters, tripods, cases, film, ETC., ETC....) that
I've accumulated in 30 years. I've lost everything. I'd like to begin again with
35mm (nikon), with full and complete manual capabilities. Can you help this damsel
in distress? Thank you in advance for your empathy and caring! Ms. tlc
- From John
Ross (Thu Mar 9 07:33:00 2000 ):
Just got an F3HP and I'm trying to find out about the AS-17 flash adaptor. I'd like
to put my money toward the MD4 instead of another flash. What's the pricing &
availability????
- From Gil (Tue Mar 7 16:24:57 2000 ):
I love my F3hp. It gets more attention than any of the other 'pro' modern cameras
in my photography class. Does anyone know what is happening with the release of the
as-17?
- From Developer (Mon Mar 6 11:55:14 2000 ):
#Nick#: That is interesting. Please provide more info and illustration: Such initiative
should be encouraged, I can create a section in the system accessory section for
the product mentioned.
- From Nick (Mon Mar 6 11:44:45 2000 ):
Hello everyone, I would like to know if there is someone who has already use the
NF-Grip for the F3HP? It's supposed to increase the grip over the F3. We can order
it from Photo Equip in Minnesota. Thanks Nick
- From Bhup
Heer (Thu Mar 2 17:40:45 2000 ):
Interchangeable Viewfinder DE2- the non HP one Rubber seals : Can anyone tell me
if there should be rubber seals underneath on the sides where the latches are, running
from the back to the front of the finder.. mine seems to have them missing but there
seems to be evidence that they may have existed as there are glue marks .. otherwise
its clean.. Rubber seals are present on the front and back of the underside of the
finder. Thanks in advance. This is the only place for a question like this (F3- is
defined as Engineering at its best!)
- From Maintainer
of PIM (Thu Mar 2 13:16:34 2000 ):
MC Lau, a contributing
writer and a good friend of mine has just bought a new "Millennium 2000 - Year
of the Dragon" Nikon FM2n, here is a first hand review by him !
- From M
Mccray (Mon Feb 28 01:52:48 2000 ):
Does anyone know if there is a matching black paint for a Nikon body that will adhere
to the body where there is some brassing? I'd like to "spruce" mine up
a bit, but am unsure of what to use. Any experience with this out there?? Please
feel free to email me directly. Thanks. BTW - absolutely wonderful web site. I have
found it to be very useful!!! MMccray@mindspring.com
- From Jim
Gaffney (Sun Feb 27 04:04:12 2000 ):
Thank You ! For all this wonderful information,owner of several nikons and of course
lost the owners manuals im very happy to find your site, it is very good and better
then the manuals.i learned an awful lot and it was great,thank you for all the time
you invested now i gotta go take some photos but i will return for more.
- From simon
poon (Sat Mar 18 16:38:55 2000 ):
An awesome site!! I had been using a Minolta SRT for years. That was my first 'investment'
in the college years. Just got an old F3, and added a MD4, it is a magic combination!
Been reading and downloading the flash pages. I guess I would buy the new AS17 thinge
and get a TTL control with a 'regular shoe' flash. Oh, is this the place to get for
a copy of PDF instruction manual for the F3 camera? Thanks for the great works here!
Simon
- From Stephen
Cutajar (Sat Mar 18 04:31:43 2000 ):
I have just bought a Nikon F3 + MD4 with 50mm F1.4. I would like to build up on the
lens system. Are there any good 'standard' zooms I should look for in the 2nd hand
market or should I just stick with primes and try to find a 28mm/35mm and 85mm/100mm/135mm.
Thanks for any replies.
- From Maintainer (Fri Mar 17 21:51:16 2000 ):
Just uploaded the Instruction Manual of the TC-16 AF Teleconveter for Nikon F3AF
camera: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/f3afbasic/f3aftc16/index.htm
- From Phil (Mon Mar 13 12:22:55 2000 ):
The site mentioned and warned about holding down depth of field preview button while
operating the MD-4 in continuous mode is great. Although you mentioned underexposures
MAY occurred but I have tried two rolls in high speed and generally exposure was
okay and acceptable. The frame per second speed is significantly higher at around
15-20% faster. Anyone has similar experience ? By the way, a great great website
- an astounding piece of work! Thanks.
- From GenHolst (Sat Mar 11 12:41:31 2000 ):
Looks like I am not alone... Thanks, JWoods.
- From JWoods (Sat Mar 11 12:36:09 2000 ):
#John#: Well, sorry that I have to disagree with some points made by you on the Board,
most seasoned Nikon users would find many facts laid out by Moose are a little unappropriate
and misleading (And over reacting..) in both of the publications. But if someone
out there wants to be a followers and believed what an 'respectable' author of a
few photographic books, that is fine with me. Anyway, the "Nikon System Handbook"
provides only a general overview of the Nikon photographic system and hardly can
claim to be a 'technical reference' materials but that should be good enough to provide
a general introducatory info to a relatively new Nikon SLR camera user. I can't claim
myself as one good technical guy, but I do know where the facts are and what sort
of content is missing in such a publication (Basically, his views are very much from
a perspective of a Nikon follower). However, since there isn't many such reference
books around, Moose's effort is noted and should also be encouraged and supported
in the course of positive development for photography. Peace !
- From Walt (Sat Mar 11 08:39:48 2000 ):
To JOHN ROSS - Having used the F3HP with several types of flash units, I found I
prefer a handle-mount unit (in my case a SUNPAK 555 which, with the NE-3D module,
works very well TTL. I feel very uneasy with the weight of a flash unit being held
on the camera only by the AS-17 adapter. Try using a handle-mount unit. I think you'll
like it. It also gives you something more beefy to hold on to. I bought the 555 used
for about $110 and the module was about $50. This was great for a unit with a GN
of 160 at ASA 100.
- From Alexander
Meter (Fri Mar 10 21:52:31 2000 ):
Hi, it is a terrific site about the manual focus Nikon cameras (I also might sucjest
to put the manuals from the camera's too this site) But too bad that Nikon doesn't
build any more manual focus camera's with interchangeable prism. (like the F2 etc)
I still hope they will continue the production with the Nikon FM2 and F3 for at least
10 years. Well that's all about I can say for now. Just keep continuing the work
of this site Alexander
- From John
Owlett (Thu Mar 9 22:15:01 2000 ):
@@@ GenHolst @@@ I think I agree with you about the F3/F4 guide that Moose wrote
for the Magic Lantern series; certainly it has very little material about the F3.
I found the "Nikon System Handbook" much more useful, as an overview of
the whole Nikon SLR system.
It too contains some mistakes. It's desperately difficult to write a technical
book without making errors. I know; I've tried. (Please buy my book! :-) But the
"Nikon System Handbook" is a deal better than most books on the subject,
better even than some Nikon catalogues.
From her note, I inferred that Terri was new to Nikon, which is why I suggested
it. As a newcomer myself, I found the informal, effusive, Californian prose made
it easy to read. I realize that some people, for whom the information is not new,
and who are perhaps more pedantic than I, find that the style grates. Let me know
what you think if you ever read it yourself.
Owl
- From GenHolst (Thu Mar 9 21:08:59 2000 ):
Frankly, I have a Moose's handbook on F3/F4 as well, the content inside was pale
(And quite a number of mistakes made by Moose) in comparison with what we have in
this site. It is a great effort - more precise, neutral and truthful in its facts
relates to Nikon F3. More power to Nikon !
Messages :
001-050 | 051-100 | 101-150 | 151-200 | 201-250 | 251-300 | 301-350 |
351-400 | 401-450 |
451-500 |
501-550 |
|
Back
| to Index Page of Nikon F3 Series SLR Camera(s)
| Back
| to Message Board for Nikon F3
Series Bodies
|
Nikon F
| Nikon F2
| Nikon F3
| Nikon
F4 |
Nikkormat(s)
|
| Nikon FM
Series | Nikon FE
Series | EMFGFG20
|
| Nikkor
Resources |
Series-E
optics |
| Back |
Index Page of Michael Liu's Nikon SLR Models
| Back |
Main Index Page of Pictorial History of Nikon SLRs
* The Eyes of Nikon ...
 |
Home - Photography in Malaysia |
 |
Copyright
© 1999. leofoo ®. MIR Web Development Team. Credit: MCLau, EEWyn,
CyLeow, Chuck Hester, Ted Wengelaar etc. Made
with a PowerMac, broadcast with a Redhat Linux powered server.
