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Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon F3 Series -
Archived 301-350 Message Board/Guestbook

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  1. From Darrell (Thu Jan 13 02:09:37 2000 ):
    I have recently purchased a Nikon F3 AF. I am looking for a manual for it could someone please turn me on to a site on the web that offers one.


  2. From lionel (Mon Jan 10 23:59:24 2000 ):
    thought you guys might want to know that Nikon has finally released the AS-17 flash shoe adapter for the F3(check out the Nikon website)!! TTL flash is finally possible with a standard ISO hotshoe mounting. Why did they take almost twenty years to come up with this little thing???


  3. From R.BANGAYAN (Thu Jan 6 14:31:33 2000 ):
    I bought my F3 way back in 1983 and until today I'm still using it, I also use a MD4 winder and SB-12 as flash, more power to Nikon !


  4. From Shouta (Tue Dec 28 12:24:51 1999 ):
    This is the first time to write this board. I have two F3, one is F3P and another is F3 titan champanu color. These are my main ordinary use camera. Recently My F3T LCD is darked and M mark is almost disappear. This is life time as mentioned Nikon Manual. They showed that LCD life time is about 7-8 years. My F3 bought about 15 years ago. So this is long case I think. Nikon sevice center can change LCD meter unit by some cost. So I will bring the camera next year. I live in Shizuoka Japan.


  5. From Walt (Sat Dec 25 04:53:59 1999 ):
    I have had an F3HP since 1996 and the hunred's digit of the LCD display has several segments out. This has just happened in the last month, so i guess it has a pretty long life. I don't know when my camera was made, so I don't know exactly how old it is. Does anyone know if Nikon has a serial number vs date of manufacture list? I would sure like to know how old it is. Thanks.


  6. From David Navarrete (Fri Dec 24 05:00:01 1999 ):
    Hello F3 Fans, I've had my F3 since 1983. If the warning about the life time of LCD panels is true then we'll be seeing a lot of complaints about failing displays by now. Actually, something has gone wrong with mine. As the number of darkened segments in the display increases the other segments start to darken also; up to a point where the display shows +, -, M, 8860. When set to auto the only readable speeds are from 4 secs to 1/15 sec. When in manual, since the M is already darkened, and added to it the speed display, all the segments become darkened. I've taken the display apart and cleaned the rubber contact strips, but it did not correct the fault. Rarely, the display will just work fine, then just go back to its faulty state. Any similar experiences out there? Is it really the LCD panel that's gone bad? BTW I just bought an F90x, WHICH HAS TWO LCD PANELS!! I would be just as happy with an FM2n - maybe I'll just save for it as a third body. Regards, David


  7. From Walt (Tue Dec 21 23:35:24 1999 ):
    Am thinking about purchasing a MD-4 for my F3, but am not sure how loud it is. Can anyone tell me what the noise level is on this winder? Thanks.


  8. From gail (Mon Dec 20 05:01:43 1999 ):
    Great site!!! Just purchased my first used md4 for my F3....needed the operating manual and here it was....thanks a lot!!!


  9. From JMG (Sat Dec 18 22:47:17 1999 ):
    I´ve lost the e-mail of Mr.Vladimir Antonov. Just thanks a lot for your help (I´ve just got your poste five minutes ago). Thank you very much, Vlady.


  10. From Antonio Barragan (Fri Dec 17 20:31:37 1999 ):
    Dear All I am looking for an online instruction manual for the Nikon Speedlight flash SB-17. any help will be greatly welcome Thanks

  11. From AD (Sun Feb 13 06:39:34 2000 ):
    Greetings fellow F3 users! I recently (finally) purchased a used F3/T and MD-4, of which the F3/T (black) was in EX+ condition, and the MD-4 in EX condition. I was wondering though, if there was any way to tell whether or not I have been duped. On the F3 page on this site (thanks to Mr. Leo Foo for the excellent information) it is stated: "The Nikon F3/T, a special uersion of the Nikon F3 High-Eyepoint camera, uses titanium for its right and left top covers, baseplate, camera back, and the pentaprism cover of the viewfinder." However on my version, I can not tell any difference on the back (film) cover. It is not the same texture as the top and bottom covers of the camera; instead it is smooth, like the "regular" F3 (non-titanium). Is the back film cover -really- supposed to be made of titanium, or have I been somewhat cheated? ... or is the back cover -supposed- to be smooth (edges, not the leather-like textured area) ?? ... Any information regarding this is much appreciated! Warmest Regards, AD


  12. From Walt (Sat Feb 5 11:26:09 2000 ):
    To Ovid GSD: The MD-4 supplies power to the camera when it is attached, regardless of the on-off switch position. That is why you got meter readings with the MD-4 in place. Check the film wind action of the MD-4 by putting in a roll of film and, leaving the back open, trigger the MD-4 on "single shot" and see if the film advances. All the winder does is advance the film. It has no effect on the shutter operation or aperture. Only reason I can think of that the film was unexposed was the film was not engaged properly on the take-up spool.


  13. From John Owlett (Sat Feb 5 01:42:23 2000 ):
    @@@ Kai @@@ I'm just an F3 user, rather than a repairman, but nobody more knowledgeable has replied in more than 24 hours, so here is a suggestion: try to find out whether it is the lens or the camera which is at fault. Do you know anyone else who has a Nikon? Try using your lens on their body and one of their lenses on your body.

    There are a few thing you don't say in you question that may help others respond. What is the focal length of your lens? (If it's your only lens and is a 1:1.4, then I guess it must be a 50mm.) Are you sure that you have a DE2 viewfinder? (It's the ordinary F3 which comes with a DE2. The F3HP comes with a DE3. If the viewfinder says "HP" on the front, just above the lens, then it's a DE3.) When you take the photos (which later turn out to be unsharp) are you able to focus them sharply on the screen in the viewfinder? When you focus on a distant object (say, 2km away) and have a sharp image on the screen, does the scale on the lens show infinity? If the camera is some years old, then I presume it is no longer under guarantee, but were you able to get any help from the shop where you bought it? What did they say?


  14. From OvidGSD (Fri Feb 4 05:25:20 2000 ):
    Just got the MD-4 drive for my F3HP. Shot 2nd half of one roll, and 1 full 36exp. roll. When I got them processed - ALL SHOTS WITH THE MD-4 WERE BLANK - UNEXPOSED. Hmmm. So today I checked all functions. Put 24exp. roll in, took 8 shots w/out MD-4, took 8 w/MD-4 single fire mode, took last 8/w MD-4 full auto. Developed. ALL SHOTS EXPOSED, PERFECTLY. Now, the only possible difference is that with the UNEXPOSED shots, the camera may have been set to the off position (I don't remember - BUT I am certain I was getting light meter readings). The shots that did work, the camera was in the on position for certain. Ok, so where does this leave me. Is my MD-4 working correctly or not? Its used, so I need to go return it soon if I am to get my money back. Or maybe it was just the camera being in the off position (which as I said I'm not even sure it was). Many many thanks for any suggestions!


  15. From John Owlett (Thu Feb 3 21:37:42 2000 ):
    @@@ Evan @@@ The AIS lens is the one where both numbers for the minimum aperture are orange. It has a ridge at the back to tell the F3 what aperture you're using, so do NOT change the exposure when you press the DOF button. The F3 has no way of knowing the aperture of the non-AI lens, so ALWAYS hold the DOF button down while metering with it.


  16. From Kai M. Klemm (Thu Feb 3 03:30:43 2000 ):
    I need help! I bought an F3hp (new) some years ago for my wife when we came into some extra cash. Neither of us are experieced photographers but the camera had been recommended by one of the popular photography magazines as the most rugged, trouble-free,etc. The problem is that the camera has never given clear, sharpely focused pictures. We have tried everything from different brands of film to different developers. Even when the camera is stopped down to f16, the photos are not sharp. I tried shooting a series of shots of news papers mounted on a board set at an angle to the plane of the camera to see if the range finder was off. None of the print was really sharp. The camera has the 1:1.4 lens and the DE2 view finder. My wife said dump the camera, I just can't do that. Can anyone tell me what to do? Thanks Kai M Klemm


  17. From Evan O'Malley (Tue Feb 1 04:06:58 2000 ):
    I Just recently purchased a Nikon F3 HP, I love it so far. One issue is that I have an ai/s lens, and a non-ai lens. I don't know which one is AI. But when I am using both, the meter suggestion changes when I depress the depth of field preview. Is this normal? Should I go on the suggestion without closing the aperture? Anyway, I think the F3 is an outstanding camera, and I hope it lasts a good long time.


  18. From pmjensen (Fri Jan 28 14:05:48 2000 ):
    Just picked up an SB-16A from eBay; well, great. Now how the heck does this thing work? Can any of you owners of SB-16s out there be induced to cluing this poor fool in? Please? Or, alternatively, anyone know of a PDF instruction manual anywhere? Thanks.


  19. From Joe Ochoa (Mon Jan 17 13:49:49 2000 ):
    I have 2 Nikon F3's, 1-F3,1-F3HP, MD-4 on the HP, and dedicated SB-17, these camera's have held up through some very tough situations, I have put up with all the ribbing about how much better it Canon F1 is and the Pentax, and the funny thing is My F-3's just keep on going while the other "better" camera's always seem to need some work. I still have not had black out on the LCD's, but I'm sure it will happen, till then, I will keep on shooting, I average about 110 rolls a year. well thanx for listening


  20. From Maintainer of PIM (Fri Jan 14 11:30:21 2000 ):
    IF you can wait, the new revised Nikon F3 site will be uploaded after compilation. A Nikon F3 AF section is also included with the User's manual prepared in HTML format. IF you can't - then try commercial outlets like http://www.craigcamera.com or mail John Craig for a quote, it should be around US20-25.00 a copy.

  21. From Pict88 (Fri Feb 25 08:31:55 2000 ):
    Hi there, I deperatly need my camera (Nikon F3) cleaned. However I don't know where to take it. Some where in the bay area (SF, California etc.)Anyone know anything please send me some info. Thanks


  22. From Walt (Thu Feb 24 12:08:19 2000 ):
    To: Paulynn The Nikon E-series lenses were introduced in the late 1970's as a lower-cost camera system. They were intended for use with the E-series cameras, such as the EM. The primary difference between the E-series lenses and the standard Nikon F lenses is the method of manufacture. The F lenses were hand assembled and the E-series was machine assembled. Lesser materials were used in the E lenses. Some assembly points were glued rather than screwed and more plastics were used in the barrel. Internal parts were also made of lesser materials. Some of the E-series lenses were reasonably good, but some are best forgotten. The "NIKON SYSTEM HANDBOOK" by "Moose" Peterson, gives a good summary of the E-series lenses and gives you the why and wherefore about which of the E lenses were good and which were not so good.


  23. From JWoods (Thu Feb 24 10:36:32 2000 ):
    Well, although it is not relative to the camera directly, but you can check out this section for more info: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/eserieslenses/index.htm


  24. From paulynn (Thu Feb 24 09:42:40 2000 ):
    Could someone tell me what the "Series E" designation means regarding Nikon lenses. Thank you


  25. From MC (Thu Feb 24 00:11:15 2000 ):
    ### Ed ### The instruction manual from SB 16A and 16B is available on line right on this site. See it here.


  26. From Ed (Mon Feb 21 08:23:02 2000 ):
    Very informative site. I have recently aquired an SB-16 flash and am in need of the manual. I would gladly pay for zeroxing costs & ect. Thanks You. Ed.


  27. From leofoo (Sat Feb 19 14:13:27 2000 ):
    The NEW revised Nikon F3 site was finally uploaded last night. I have given my personal reasons why the earlier site needs to be revamped. Many would think the time spent might as well do something more interesting like featuring any of the AF camera bodies where interest of majority of tthe surfers are - anyway, as I said many times, web traffic is not my priority and there are already so many good websites around featuring all those wonderful high-tech SLR cameras. After all, I think photography is not all about autofocus and speed of focusing is only added a layer of convenience and responsiveness to certain photographic situations where it demands. Anyway, after this very tiring and time consuming project, I might have to turn back to the long overdue Nikon F2 to fulfill my promise to Michael Liu (A long lost figure on the Net...). I hate to think I have something outstanding before I call it a day on the Internet just as he did... enjoy !


  28. From David Navarrete (Wed Feb 16 20:33:27 2000 ):
    Film Loading on the F3: The F3, being a manual film loading camera, needs extra care and attention when being loaded. You won't get an alarm if you failed to load properly. The following is my personal "habit" in loading my F3. 1. Once the film leader is inserted in the take up spool, allow at least one revolution of the take up spool before closing the back. 2. Without pressing the rewind button, GENTLY turn the rewind knob clockwise to take up the slack. 3. Wind to the first frame and observe that the rewind knob is turning counter-clockwise. For practice, get a spoiled film cartidge from a photo lab and try the above procedure. Also, get a film picker so you can reuse the spoiled cartridge over. The above procedure has other benefits. If you change films at mid roll you can easily go back from one roll to another with little risk of over lapping images. Play it safe - skip one frame. The film picker is then used to retrieve the film leader of a partly used roll - in case you have a standard camera back. Click ;-) David


  29. From Richard T. Lourie Jr. (Wed Feb 16 07:47:49 2000 ):
    WOW you guys are good, I have learned more from this site than from the manuals and book that I have read. Thanks for all the work I'll be checking in more often now that I have visited. Rich Lourie


  30. From David Navarrete (Tue Feb 15 20:34:38 2000 ):
    Hi, I'm back. A few months ago I posted a message regarding my F3's LCD panel going bad. That is, all the segements darken above a certain speed when in auto and any setting when in manual mode such that it reads "-+M 8000". Well, I found a cure. I've taken off the leather-like cover from the front right side of the camera and underneath the cover are several small access holes for adjustments. I squirted a bit of electronic contact cleaner through each hole. And now the LCD panel is back to normal. For those who may experience the same problem but are not as daring as I am, just pass the info to your camera tech. I hope it'll help. Click ;-) David

  31. From John Owlett (Thu Mar 9 18:56:44 2000 ):
    @@@ Terri @@@ I started again with 35mm myself last August -- in my case after a long friendship with a Rolleiflex TLR rather than a theft. I borrowed and read (and later bought my own copy of) "The Nikon System Handbook" by Moose Peterson, which -- as a Nikon neophyte -- I found entertaining and informative. There seem to be four "cult" manual focus Nikon cameras, each of which has a large loyal following: --- F3 --- Of course. The subject of this msg board, and the one I chose myself. Extremely rugged, aperture priority or manual exposure, electronic shutter with manual 1/60 sec backup. 100% viewfinder, mirror lockup, exchangeable viewfinder. If you wear glasses, get F3HP (high-eyepoint) or F3/T (titanium). Still available new (I have heard rumours that Nikon has just decided to make another batch) so accessories will be available for at least 10 years. If you buy second hand, buy an amateur-owned body -- photojournalists really hammered their F3s in the 1980s. --- FM2n --- Completely manual (apart from the meter) so will work in extreme conditions, and may have greater longevity than an electronic camera. Rugged, manual exposure only, fast flash sync (1/250). Also available new, though FM2/T (titanium) may be hard to find. Much lighter than F3 -- approx 510g compared with approx 720g. --- FE2 --- Electronic shutter version of FM2n and, in the opinion of many, the best lightweight camera Nikon has ever made. Rugged, aperture priority or manual exposure, electronic shutter with manual backup, fast flash sync, TTL flash metering. Discontinued in the 1980s, but readily available second hand. --- F2 --- Predecessor of F3 as Nikon's top-of-range camera. Extremely rugged, completely manual body, 100% viewfinder, mirror lockup, exchangeable viewfinder. Apart from F2/T (titanium), main differences between F2 models is viewfinder: as well as meterless, action, waist-level, and magnifying viewfinders there is a range of viewfinders with meters which developed as metering technology developed. Some of the metering systems are wearing out -- the F2A may well be your best bet for a camera that will still be going in 2040 (whether or not you and I are still going :-).


  32. From Terri (Thu Mar 9 07:58:53 2000 ):
    Depression....that's all I've felt since the burgle of ALL of my photographic equip. (cameras [all formats], lenses, meters, tripods, cases, film, ETC., ETC....) that I've accumulated in 30 years. I've lost everything. I'd like to begin again with 35mm (nikon), with full and complete manual capabilities. Can you help this damsel in distress? Thank you in advance for your empathy and caring! Ms. tlc


  33. From John Ross (Thu Mar 9 07:33:00 2000 ):
    Just got an F3HP and I'm trying to find out about the AS-17 flash adaptor. I'd like to put my money toward the MD4 instead of another flash. What's the pricing & availability????


  34. From Gil (Tue Mar 7 16:24:57 2000 ):
    I love my F3hp. It gets more attention than any of the other 'pro' modern cameras in my photography class. Does anyone know what is happening with the release of the as-17?


  35. From Developer (Mon Mar 6 11:55:14 2000 ):
    #Nick#: That is interesting. Please provide more info and illustration: Such initiative should be encouraged, I can create a section in the system accessory section for the product mentioned.


  36. From Nick (Mon Mar 6 11:44:45 2000 ):
    Hello everyone, I would like to know if there is someone who has already use the NF-Grip for the F3HP? It's supposed to increase the grip over the F3. We can order it from Photo Equip in Minnesota. Thanks Nick


  37. From Bhup Heer (Thu Mar 2 17:40:45 2000 ):
    Interchangeable Viewfinder DE2- the non HP one Rubber seals : Can anyone tell me if there should be rubber seals underneath on the sides where the latches are, running from the back to the front of the finder.. mine seems to have them missing but there seems to be evidence that they may have existed as there are glue marks .. otherwise its clean.. Rubber seals are present on the front and back of the underside of the finder. Thanks in advance. This is the only place for a question like this (F3- is defined as Engineering at its best!)


  38. From Maintainer of PIM (Thu Mar 2 13:16:34 2000 ):
    MC Lau, a contributing writer and a good friend of mine has just bought a new "Millennium 2000 - Year of the Dragon" Nikon FM2n, here is a first hand review by him !


  39. From M Mccray (Mon Feb 28 01:52:48 2000 ):
    Does anyone know if there is a matching black paint for a Nikon body that will adhere to the body where there is some brassing? I'd like to "spruce" mine up a bit, but am unsure of what to use. Any experience with this out there?? Please feel free to email me directly. Thanks. BTW - absolutely wonderful web site. I have found it to be very useful!!! MMccray@mindspring.com


  40. From Jim Gaffney (Sun Feb 27 04:04:12 2000 ):
    Thank You ! For all this wonderful information,owner of several nikons and of course lost the owners manuals im very happy to find your site, it is very good and better then the manuals.i learned an awful lot and it was great,thank you for all the time you invested now i gotta go take some photos but i will return for more.

  41. From simon poon (Sat Mar 18 16:38:55 2000 ):
    An awesome site!! I had been using a Minolta SRT for years. That was my first 'investment' in the college years. Just got an old F3, and added a MD4, it is a magic combination! Been reading and downloading the flash pages. I guess I would buy the new AS17 thinge and get a TTL control with a 'regular shoe' flash. Oh, is this the place to get for a copy of PDF instruction manual for the F3 camera? Thanks for the great works here! Simon


  42. From Stephen Cutajar (Sat Mar 18 04:31:43 2000 ):
    I have just bought a Nikon F3 + MD4 with 50mm F1.4. I would like to build up on the lens system. Are there any good 'standard' zooms I should look for in the 2nd hand market or should I just stick with primes and try to find a 28mm/35mm and 85mm/100mm/135mm. Thanks for any replies.


  43. From Maintainer (Fri Mar 17 21:51:16 2000 ):
    Just uploaded the Instruction Manual of the TC-16 AF Teleconveter for Nikon F3AF camera: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/f3afbasic/f3aftc16/index.htm


  44. From Phil (Mon Mar 13 12:22:55 2000 ):
    The site mentioned and warned about holding down depth of field preview button while operating the MD-4 in continuous mode is great. Although you mentioned underexposures MAY occurred but I have tried two rolls in high speed and generally exposure was okay and acceptable. The frame per second speed is significantly higher at around 15-20% faster. Anyone has similar experience ? By the way, a great great website - an astounding piece of work! Thanks.


  45. From GenHolst (Sat Mar 11 12:41:31 2000 ):
    Looks like I am not alone... Thanks, JWoods.


  46. From JWoods (Sat Mar 11 12:36:09 2000 ):
    #John#: Well, sorry that I have to disagree with some points made by you on the Board, most seasoned Nikon users would find many facts laid out by Moose are a little unappropriate and misleading (And over reacting..) in both of the publications. But if someone out there wants to be a followers and believed what an 'respectable' author of a few photographic books, that is fine with me. Anyway, the "Nikon System Handbook" provides only a general overview of the Nikon photographic system and hardly can claim to be a 'technical reference' materials but that should be good enough to provide a general introducatory info to a relatively new Nikon SLR camera user. I can't claim myself as one good technical guy, but I do know where the facts are and what sort of content is missing in such a publication (Basically, his views are very much from a perspective of a Nikon follower). However, since there isn't many such reference books around, Moose's effort is noted and should also be encouraged and supported in the course of positive development for photography. Peace !


  47. From Walt (Sat Mar 11 08:39:48 2000 ):
    To JOHN ROSS - Having used the F3HP with several types of flash units, I found I prefer a handle-mount unit (in my case a SUNPAK 555 which, with the NE-3D module, works very well TTL. I feel very uneasy with the weight of a flash unit being held on the camera only by the AS-17 adapter. Try using a handle-mount unit. I think you'll like it. It also gives you something more beefy to hold on to. I bought the 555 used for about $110 and the module was about $50. This was great for a unit with a GN of 160 at ASA 100.


  48. From Alexander Meter (Fri Mar 10 21:52:31 2000 ):
    Hi, it is a terrific site about the manual focus Nikon cameras (I also might sucjest to put the manuals from the camera's too this site) But too bad that Nikon doesn't build any more manual focus camera's with interchangeable prism. (like the F2 etc) I still hope they will continue the production with the Nikon FM2 and F3 for at least 10 years. Well that's all about I can say for now. Just keep continuing the work of this site Alexander


  49. From John Owlett (Thu Mar 9 22:15:01 2000 ):
    @@@ GenHolst @@@ I think I agree with you about the F3/F4 guide that Moose wrote for the Magic Lantern series; certainly it has very little material about the F3. I found the "Nikon System Handbook" much more useful, as an overview of the whole Nikon SLR system.

    It too contains some mistakes. It's desperately difficult to write a technical book without making errors. I know; I've tried. (Please buy my book! :-) But the "Nikon System Handbook" is a deal better than most books on the subject, better even than some Nikon catalogues.

    From her note, I inferred that Terri was new to Nikon, which is why I suggested it. As a newcomer myself, I found the informal, effusive, Californian prose made it easy to read. I realize that some people, for whom the information is not new, and who are perhaps more pedantic than I, find that the style grates. Let me know what you think if you ever read it yourself.

    Owl


  50. From GenHolst (Thu Mar 9 21:08:59 2000 ):
    Frankly, I have a Moose's handbook on F3/F4 as well, the content inside was pale (And quite a number of mistakes made by Moose) in comparison with what we have in this site. It is a great effort - more precise, neutral and truthful in its facts relates to Nikon F3. More power to Nikon !

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