Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon F system was officially dis-continued in 1974, as with any used models, users support may be of a concern. You may use this site for common support and sharing mutual knowledge or experiences among yourself. I hope this convenience provided can be of useful to all of you who still owned this great piece of manual focus SLR. You may also make use this message board as a guestbook for the camera. Enjoy.
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Main Index Page of the Nikon F SLR Camera Model(s) Website
1. From : Patrick Verbessem (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:20 AM Sunday 03 February, 2008
I recently obtained a Nikon F with Photomic T. The lens is a Nikkor-S 50mm 1:1.4. Coupling the aperture ring with the pin in the prism goes smoothly, but apparently the pin doesn't move up and down (the spring is in place though), resulting in loosing grip on the prong when turning to aperture 1.4 (no problem with any of the other diafragm apertures, but you can see that the grip at the smallest aperture is only just sufficient). Anybody who knows what can be down?2. From : Curt (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://curtisbliss.com
Date : 11:23 AM Saturday 02 February, 2008
Does anyone know, can a prism from a metered body be removed and placed in a plain housing? I have a plain prism for a Nikon F that's lost it's coating and flares and is dim because of this. The plain prisms, especially in black are hard to find. Can a prism from a metered prism be removed and fitted into the plain housing?
Silly question but thanks in advance!
Curt3. From : George R. (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:09 AM Thursday 31 January, 2008
[I am using the Nikon FTn as my point of reference.]
I recently resurrected my father's camera which was serviced relatively recently in the late 1990s or early 2000s. However, I noted that the batteries were definitely dead upon testing the meter (hey, who knows how many years went buy with the meter on).
Thanks to this board I was able to find that the WeinCell MRB626 which replaces PX625 & PX13 batteries.
I took the batteries out of their package and put them into the camera. No power. I sighed, and then put the little cover back on the battery's positive lead, set to return them. Then my eye caught the insert in the package: "WeinCell is not activated until the pull-tab is removed (Remove tab at least 30 minutes prior to use.)". I did just this and the meter works like it is 1969 all over again.
So, if you buy these new air/zinc batteries, WAIT before you put them in. Don't just discard them as faulty or your camera as in need of repair. It's the batteries. They need some air.4. From : rick oleson (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:16 PM Monday 28 January, 2008
With the F36 motor, if it's not on a camera, when you press the shutter release button on the hand grip (or on the back of the motor itself), the motor runs as long as you hold the button down. If, while it's running, you press down on the spring loaded pin near the wind coupling, the motor will run (even when you let off the button) until you press the pin again.
This works only if you have some sort of power supply for the motor, of course. The AA battery pack has the hand grip attached to it, with other power sources you use the release on the motor.
Also: the F36 motor doesn't work on just any Nikon F. The body has to have a motor-compatible bottom plate inside, with a couple of holes near the takeup spool where the coupling pins reach in to the camera mechanism. And, generally, a motor and camera are matched as a set to make sure that it all works right. Just finding a working motor and finding a motor-coupling plate and attaching them to your Nikon F won't guarantee that it will work.5. From : mike b (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:22 AM Monday 28 January, 2008
I have a 5cm f2 serial 520778 (tick marked) and a 10.5cm f2.5 serial 122851. I also have a Nikon f 1959 with serial 6400473........If you are interested...or know someone who could be interested...
6. From : derek halliday (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 05:53 PM Sunday 27 January, 2008
Can anyone advise me please. I have a 1960's NIKON f-36 electric Motor Drive. Is there anyway that I can test to see if it is in working order without having a camera body? I would like to sell it but would prefer to know it is working.
7. From : peter (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:49 AM Saturday 26 January, 2008
Ok.. on the double batteries (zinc air)instead of 'O' rings found that a short piece of 1/2" clear soft plastic tubing, (Sold at Ace by the foot), cut a little shorter than the depth of the battery compartment works well. One must add a bent piece of brass, clipped in place, to bring over the + connection from the push pin located in the side of the battery compartment, and only touching the second battery. Placing the tube into the battery compartment, then the two batteries, and then screwing down the cap, puts everything in proper place.
Trouble is, there is still something the matter with the meter. Not working right. Checking found it can be several things, the cd cells, the resistor rings and perhaps the needle itself. Checking the web discover a manual on the meter, haven't gotten it yet. ($9.50 + $2.00 shipping) Will let you know if its any good.
Meanwhile loaded old Dad's other, Nikomat El, and checking with a roll of film its meter.
Ha ..what fun. Better than instant gratification ;-)8. From : rick oleson (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-111.html
Date : 12:22 PM Saturday 19 January, 2008
I think I may have one or two 2mm plastic screws, I don't know if that's the correct size for your meter.
The rubber O-ring does work well for the Nikkormat and most other cameras that took a single PX625 cell, but I'm not sure if it will work in the Photomic. It might.....9. From : peter (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:19 AM Saturday 19 January, 2008
The heated screw driver tip worked like a charm. Then, as no have plastic screw, used some 'Tag Along' high strength electrical conduit line to tie the switch in place. Meter now works.
Checking out the hearing aid batteries on Google, to see what voltage they were, also got a hit from another forum, Photo.net. A gentleman there uses the 675 Zinc_Air also but suggested to "... get a #9 Rubber O-ring at Home Depo (it costs about 24cents), and place it in the chamber of your Nikkormat FTN." Have to look into that to, rather than take the battery apart.
Thanks for the tip.. p.10. From : rick oleson (firstname.lastname@example.org)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:23 PM Friday 18 January, 2008
I'm afraid I don't have a Tn finder handy for reference, and my notes don't go into this particular event. I assume that the shaft of the broken screw is plastic, which should make it easier to extract. I can think of a few things to try:
One is to find a very small jeweler's screwdriver (a cheap one is fine), heat the tip and press it firmly into the end of the broken screw shaft. If it's hot enough it will melt the plastic a bit and create a slot for itself, at which point you can unscrew it. If that doesn't work, or if the screw shaft is metal, the next thing to try is a small (say 1 - 1.5mm) LEFT-HAND drill bit in a pin vise. Usually what will happen as you try to drill out a screw is that the drill will begin to cut and then at some point it will stick in the screw. If it's a left hand drill, when it sticks it will unscrew the stud. If it never sticks, it will drill on through it and then you can usually get the remains out. (in this latter case, a right hand drill works as well)
Alkaline batteries will make the meter work, but with drifting accuracy. You can buy a CRIS adapter (I guess you need 2 for this meter) and silver cells, but that's a bit expensive. My favorite replacement for the mercury 625 cell is a 675 Zinc/Air hearing aid battery, but it is smaller than the 625... my answer to this is to disassemble a 625 alkaline cell and use the larger half-shell as a holder for the 675. A bit messy but cheap and accurate, and it preserves the meter circuitry unaltered.
Please feel free to email me directly on any of this if you'd like to discuss it in more detail.
Maintainers for Nikon F Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Rick Oleson (email@example.com);
Assisted by:- Ted Wengelaar (http://www.xs4all.nl/~wengelam/index.html)
Looking for a few Xtra volunteers to be the maintainer(s) of this Board
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