Various Nikon SLR/compact/digital camera models

1. From : Conrad Bender (darnoc@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:36 PM Friday 07 September, 2007

What switches the power from the batteries in the Nikon EM? I bought mine at a pawn shop a few years ago. It takes great photos, but the only way I can keep the batteries from dying is to loosen the door. Thanks for any info you can provide.

2. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 10:24 AM Tuesday 04 September, 2007

Hi John Speaking just for myself, I haven't got the faintest clue what the heck you're talking about. Maybe one of our 21st century types will be able to help.....

3. From : John Wolf (vbcodr@rogers.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:37 PM Monday 03 September, 2007

Can anyone tell me what the bit count is on the A/D converter in a Coolpix 8800. I can't find that spec anywhere, not even at nikon. Thanks.

4. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 10:03 AM Monday 03 September, 2007

Hi Christine:

First, make sure the camera is set to A.

Then, in the EM, the meter will still not work when you first start out, until you have advanced the film up to where it reads Frame 1 on the film counter. Up to that point it acts like it has a dead meter. If it still won't give you a reading after the counter is up to Frame 1, you may have a problem with the camera.

5. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 09:59 AM Monday 03 September, 2007

Hi Billy:

I don't have an FG available, I can only think of 2 things to suggest: First, make sure that the shutter speed dial is set to either the A or P setting; and second, remember not to look at the meter display until the frame counter is advanced to #1 (If I recall correctly the FG, like the EM, keeps the meter disabled during loading up to Frame 1 on the counter).

If it's still acting up, you may have a problem.

6. From : Jim Wilson (jwilson20@nyc.rr.com)
Url : http://bikerodnkustom.com
Date : 07:17 AM Monday 03 September, 2007

Hi Billy,
Your light seal question is answered immediately below your post, in my last one. John Goodman sells a kit of enough material to take care of six bodies for $6. You can spend twice as much for enough material to do one body, from other eBay sellers. I have a sneaking suspicion that those people probably buy his kits and divide them by six. If not, they should, because Jon's material is perfect for the job. He also throws in good instructions and a little wooden tool, which comes in handy. His kit also has mirror damper foam, which your camera also probably needs, as it goes bad about the same time as the light seals.

The first one I did took about an hour and a half. The second probably took an hour, including the mirror damper foam. The most time-consuming part is just cleaning the old gummy seal material out of the grooves. Either benzine (lighter fluid) or denatured alcohol are recommended by Jon, but I tried both and felt that the denatured alcohol worked better on Nikon light seal material.

I don't have a solution to your other question, since I haven't had that problem, but Rick probably does.

7. From : christine (princessofphotography@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:29 AM Monday 03 September, 2007

I need help!! I am a student and I am taking my first photography class. The only requirement for The class is that the camera must be 35mm and mannual. My father has a Nikon EM which I am currently using. This is where I am having trouble. My teacher says that to get the proper shutter reading I need to press half way down on the button that I would use to take the picture. When I do that nothing happens. She suggusted that I change the battery. I have and nothing changes. Any suggustions??

8. From : Billy Coldstream (inevitably@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 03:37 AM Sunday 02 September, 2007

I have an old FG which I've dug up after many years: apart from the seals have turned to a black mess which is causing a problem - how do you replace these??
I've put new battery in and that seems fine but the light meter registers up in the red C90 zone regardless of light levels- I can't remember if there is something I should be doing ? I've checked the manual online - but does not explain. Any ideas??

9. From : Jim Wilson (jwilson20@nyc.rr.com)
Url : http://bikerodnkustom.com
Date : 04:45 AM Saturday 01 September, 2007

Responses to David and Matt:

David, the Series E lenses should work with digital Nikon bodies; however, since the digital bodies' image sensors are smaller than 35mm film, the lenses will act like lenses of longer focal length. Whether this is bad or good is a matter of taste.

What most people seem to be doing with their FGs etc, after they get digital cameras, is selling them on eBay for ridiculously cheap prices. I've bought several of them recently. The last one was a clean black FG body for $31. Like most Nikon bodies that age, it needed new light seals and mirror damper foam. A while back, I bought enough of the right materials for doing six bodies, for about $6, from a guy named Jon Goodman. It took me less than an hour to do the job, as Jon's instructions are very good. Now it's as good as new.

After doing the job, I have a camera with much better image quality potential than even the most expensive Nikon digital body- the D6, or whatever they call it, which goes for thousands of dollars. There is no comparison between the image resolution of film and the resolution of a digital sensor. So, if you plan to do more with a camera than post snapshots on your myspace page, you might consider hanging onto that FG. With a good Nikon lens mounted on it, it's capable of taking photos as good as any film Nikon ever made.

Matt,
One of the FG bodies I bought on ebay recently, on an "as-is" basis had the same problem of the rewind button not popping up when the rear cover was closed. This kept the film from advancing. A repairman took a look at it, and told me that the problem was with something broken in the assembly, located near the top of the body inside the camera. This meant that repairing the body would have cost much more than just buying another body without that problem. Since the broken "as-is" body cost me $20 and a working one cost me $31, I've decided, in the future, to only buy bodies which are claimed to be working in the description.

"Working" doesn't mean that the light seals are good, though, or that the mirror foam hasn't turned sticky. Jon Goodman's light seal materials may be found here: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZinterslice
I recommend his materials highly, and he's a very nice guy.
Jim

10. From : Jim Wilson (jwilson20@nyc.rr.com)
Url : http://bikerodnkustom.com
Date : 04:11 AM Saturday 01 September, 2007

While it's commonly thought that the Nikon FG, EM, and various other bodies have non-interchangeable focusing screens, this is not necessarily so. Taking my cue from Sheldon Brown, who replaced the K focusing screen in his fisheye-equipped Nikon EM body with a plain-matte B screen for an interchangeable-screen Nikon body I recently fitted a B2 screen for my Nikon FE2 into an FG body for use in close-up work, and it fits and works very well. The screen retainer is held into the FG, EM etc by a single screw, so it was an easy transplant.

The B2 screen calls for an exposure compensation of +1/2 when used in cameras other than the FE2, FA, etc. For this reason, I'd like to get a B screen for the FG. I suppose that a B screen for the FE would work, but I don't find those on eBay very often.

What I've mostly been seeing lately are B screens for F-501/N2020 and N90/N90s. In the photographs, these screens look very similar to the one I fitted into the FG- thin, with no metal frame, with the little "ear" which sticks out for grasping with the "tweezer" tool. The B2 screen's "ear" doesn't need to be cut off to fit into the FG, as I thought might be necessary, so it wouldn't be necessary with these other screens either, presuming they're the same size as the ones for the FE2.

Has anyone compared the F-501/N2020 or N90/N90s screens to the earlier screens, and are they the same size? If so, has anyone fitted one into an FG/EM, and does it work right?

Thanks,
Jim

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