Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 001-050 |

From Edward Mondini (Mon Mar 26 20:51:25 2001 ):
I wanted to mention on the board that one of the reasons I want to try to learn to clean the camera is to remove dust particles from inside my viewfinder. Right now, the only way I seem to be able to do that is by removing the top cover. Which is not the easiest thing to do. I've managed to find out how to remove the film advance lever and the film speed dial, but I've yet to learn how to remove the film sprocket turner-thinger. A nice thing to start with would be a detailed schematic of the camera itself with all the parts exploded.
From Richard McQuiston (Mon Mar 26 10:13:11 2001 ):
Hello, a question is what I have, anybody got a web site showing me the breakdown to lubricate the shutter squeak in my AE 1 program camera, I am mechanically inclined and only want a short cut instead of tearing it down completly. Thanks Much and I will be waiting.
From Terry Carraway (Sun Mar 25 20:34:19 2001 ):
Edward - On the front of the camera if it is a Program version, it will say Program in green under the AE-1. For tools and lubricants, try Micro Tools (http://www.fargo-ent.com/). Do realize what you are getting into in trying to work on a camera. Good luck.
From Terry Carraway (Sun Mar 25 20:32:18 2001 ):
David Arnold - For a hard copy manual try Craig Camera (www.craigcamera.com). For an electronic one, you can start at the links at the bottom of the page. Not really printable, but all of the info is there.
From Edward Mondini (Sun Mar 25 14:43:21 2001 ):
I own a Canon AE-1 (I'm not certain if it's a Program, but I think it is not a Program). I am looking for a set of tools and lubricants with which I may clean and repair the camera. Does anyone know how I may obtain such tools?
From David Arnold (Sat Mar 24 23:08:50 2001 ):
I recently acquired a Canon A1 in excellent condition, but without an owner's manual. Canon customer service (oxymoron) advises that the manual is out of print but said they would send a photocopy. That was six weeks ago; still no manual. Can anyone help? I'll cheerfully pay copying and postage costs. Thanks.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Mar 23 19:51:31 2001 ):
David - On the other hand, I have participated in several hundred transactions on eBay (my Feedback is over 240), and never did I have a real problem. A couple of times I did think something was wrong, but it turned out that I mis read the ad. When the items have been defective, broken, or not as advertised, EVERY time the seller has made it good. Either by refunding the money or replacing the item, or whatever it took. This does not mean that you don't need to be careful, only that most transactions and sellers are fine. As to the prices, well, that goes with anything. You have to know what something is worth and not pay more than that price. People do get caught up in bidding fever and go crazy, on the other hand, by bidding carefully and realizing that just about everything will be for sale again, you can get some VERY good deals on eBay.
From David (Fri Mar 23 00:00:49 2001 ):
Great board for information on the Canon A system. A word of warning to all. In reading the board I have seen numerous references to buying cameras, parts, etc. on Ebay. Be aware that for the most part you have no right to return these purchases to the seller unless the seller agrees or there is fraud in the transaction. Fraud would have to be proven in court. Also most sellers will not warranty their merchandise or if they do it is only for a very brief period (10 days is typical). Finally, prices will be inflated. Case in point - I purchased a ex condition action grip for my A-1 at a local camera show for $10. I checked prices on Ebay. They ranged from $10.99 to $24.99. Solution is to patronize your local camera stores and reputable dealers like B&H. An excellent resource for finding dealers and their rating by buyers is the following http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/albro.html
From Robert King (Thu Mar 22 09:54:04 2001 ):
The A-1 problem is caused by a shutter that needs to be recocked. To fix it, just push the multiple exposure lever in and wind the film advance lever all the way. The camera should make a clicking noise that sort of sounds like the film winding. This recocks the shutter. After you do that, check the viewfinder display again; it should now work properly.
From Michael (Wed Apr 4 07:27:00 2001 ):
I have a AE-1 Program camera that used to be my grandfathers. Anyways, I was using it for a project but about after maybe a week of not using it (with about 6 shots left), I found out that the advance lever wouldn't go back all the way anymore. It gets stuck at halfway. I was wondering if there is anything that I can do to maybe fix this myself, whether it is advised to unscrew the bottom or any other tips, please let mw know if there is anything that I can do, besides taking it to a camera shop. If so, please e-mail me at [pacboiv2@aol.com] thanks
From benny (Tue Apr 3 23:23:25 2001 ):
apparently, i have a "short" in my camera, now. would it be advisable to take the camera apart and look for it or is there a fuse i can look for?
From David (Tue Apr 3 09:29:37 2001 ):
Tony - You should be able to use a standard PC cord found at any camera store in the area. You might want to try the following stores... Englewood Camera on South Broadway, Technik Camera on South Broadway, Camera Trader on W. Hampden Ave, or Jerry's Camera on E. 3rd Ave. in Cherry Creek. Be sure to bring your camera and flash to test.
From Tony Reales (Tue Apr 3 05:33:03 2001 ):
NEED HELP PLEASE! I have a Canon A1 that I love, my problem is that I can not find the right off-camera shoe cord for my flash.... I thought the problem was my flash unit and not the cord but after futher research its the cord im having problems with. Im using a Canon off-camera shoe cord 2 which I was told will work correctly with my eos elan but not my A1... something about 2 connect points (A1) vs the 5 contact points of the cord... Can someone please fill me in and tell me where i can find the right shoe cord or possibly have one to sell...... Thank you all much Tony in Denver TonyR01@aol.com
From Shaun R. Phelps (Tue Apr 3 05:28:08 2001 ):
Has anyone attempted any astrophotography with a Canon AE-1? The problem I am having is being able to actually see what I am photographing. I have an f5 telescope with images clearly visible through all eyepieces included, but, I am unable to see the image I am trying to focus on through the camera viewfinder when the camera is mounted on to the scope. Any suggestions as to how to conquer this problem? Thanks,
From Terry Carraway (Mon Apr 2 05:51:26 2001 ):
Colin - The camera body sync speed is the fastest shutter speed when the entire frame is open for flash to expose it. The way a focal plane shutter works (just about all Canon cameras back to the rangefinders) is that there are two curtains. When you push the shutter button the first curtain is released to travel across the frame. After the appropriate time the second curtain is released to cover up the film. Now at high speeds the first curtain is still moving across the frame when the second is released, meaning there is a narrow slit traveling across the frame. At very slow speeds the first curtain completes its travel and then later the second curtain moves. The transition point is where the first curtain just completes its travel when the second curtain is released, or the fastest speed where the entire frame is uncovered at the same time. This is because the flash duration is very fast (from about 1/1000 to 1/10,000 or a second or less). So the entire frame has to be uncovered when the flash fires. On your camera look at the shutter speed dial. The 1/60 setting will be different than all the others. It will either be in a different color or have a little lightning bolt next to it. This is the maximum sync speed for flash. And that speed is 1/60 for all Canon A series cameras. The F-1 had a 1/90 second speed, and the T90 would sync as fast as 1/250. The differences are due to the material of the shutter curtains and the direction of travel. A series use cloth shutter curtains, too fast and they tear. The F-1 used titanium metal shutter curtains, so they can be moved a little faster. The T90 uses metal curtain, plus the curtains travel vertically rather than horizontally. Since 35mm frame is not square, a vertical travel shutter moves 2/3 the distance of a horizontal travel shutter. With a dedicated flash (like Canon SpeedLites and some other flashes) the flash will automatically set the camera to the maximum flash sync speed. With some (199A, 299T) you can manually select a slower speed for special effects.
From Colin Williams (Mon Apr 2 02:21:11 2001 ):
I've been reading about the "camera body sync speed", is this something found on newer cameras or what? I have an ae-1 program and I havent been able to figure out where the sync speed on the body is? Is it on my flash? (vivitar auto/bounce 40d)
From Mark Wahlster (Thu Mar 29 10:06:54 2001 ):
Rick, Both versions of this lenses are supposed to have the same optical formula and all nFD lenses are supposed to have S.S.C. coating except the 50mm f1.8 according to my Canon Lens Work book. That said you can find a lot of Canon users who think the older BL S.S.C. is the better of the two. I have owned both and currently favor my BL FD S.S.C. in fact I sold off the other. Camera lenses are a lot like rifles the average rifle can out shoot all but the very best shooter, and the average shooter with the very best rifle will shoot no better. With Camera lenses the grade of film, the exact exposure and a dozen variables can have more effect on the final image than if one lenses is 2% better then the other if you want to create better images use what you have more often the old adage about practice making perfect can be very well applied to photography. Of course as with all things YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY!!! Mark W.
From Mark Wahlster (Thu Mar 29 09:26:38 2001 ):
Edward, I see simular postings on this list quite often and I have some bad news for you unless you already have a repair manual and set the meter and speed dials to the preset settings before removing the top of the camera to put it very bluntly you are screwed. If the top of the camera is removed with out making these setting the chances of getting the meter to function properly by trial and error before you end up breaking the tungsten wire you are very lucky if you have taken off the top of your camera then you should realize that to remove the pentaprism you will need to unsolder part of the printed circut and that should only be done by a qualified technicain. If you have not got the top off yet you are very lucky I caught you a repair shop will charge upwards of $100.00 to fix your camera if you have started to disassemble it some won't even touch it. DO NOT TAKE THE TOP OFF YOUR A SERIES CAMERA UNLESS YOU ARE QUAIFIED
From Rick (Wed Mar 28 14:05:11 2001 ):
I was wondering if the optics of the FD 1.4 ssc breech lock are the same/better/worse as the newer FD 1.4? or does the newer non breech lock lens also come with/without the "ssc" coatings?
From Willie (Thu Apr 12 08:38:52 2001 ):
Mike. That 55mm reversing ring would be for the FD lens. There is no reason to have one for the Canon EF lens as they are no way to set aperture. If you use it with the last of the FD lens you will need to cut out the back of a rear lens cap and mount it on the lens so you can stop the lens down. The cap will double as a lens hoods too, the older breach lock lens can be stopped down with out the use of the cut out cap. Please keep us informed on the results.
From Tiziano (Tue Apr 10 21:07:58 2001 ):
Hi all is possible to know if this model AT1 is maked also in blak paint finish ????please send me info via email deltatex@libero.it
From Mike (Mon Apr 9 00:12:57 2001 ):
I have come across a reversing ring for a 55 mm. Canon Lens. Its part No. is CA-55. Does anyone know whether this is for the Canon FD mounting ?
From oman alfonso (Sun Apr 8 15:04:35 2001 ):
oman here,i'd like to know if the pentax camera flash model af200t is compatible with ae1-program. thanks
From oman_alfonso (Sun Apr 8 14:42:32 2001 ):
hello,i have an ae1-program and i'm just starting to learn how to shoot,my problem with the camera is ,whenever i half press the button "32" always appears and also the "flash" signals.is there something wrong with the i.c or anything? i appreciate any suggestions. THANKS,
From Mark Wahlster (Fri Apr 6 10:27:40 2001 ):
Sorry the first time I submitted this it wasn't very clear so I fixed it. I have an A-1that stops the lenses down all the way whenever the lenses is set on A on the aperture ring. no matter what the exposure calls for. When it is set manually to a f stop it stops down to the aperture set on the ring. This is causing most of my exposures to come out under exposed as the camera is setting the aperture to the smallest aperture no matter what the meter read out says. I have owned A series canons for 25 years and never had this happen befor anybody got a clue? everything in the mirror box mount area looks and acts the same as the other one which works fine (while the lenses is off) it does this on Program, Tv, and Av settings anybody else ever have this problem? Mark W.
From Mark Wahlster (Fri Apr 6 09:44:46 2001 ):
Mark W. here I have found a rather perplexing problem with one of my two A-1's one of them stops the lenses down all the way when ever the lenses is set on A on the apethur ring when set manually to a f stop it will only stop down to that apethure. I have owned A series canons for 25 years and never had this happen befor anybody got a clue? everything in the mirror box mount area looks and acts the same as the other one which works fine (while the lenses is off) It does this on Program Tv and Av settings anybody else ever have this problem?
From Terry Carraway (Thu Apr 5 09:10:29 2001 ):
Michael - We don't email answers since that doesn't help others with the same problem. It may be a problem with the camera, or it may be a short roll of film. Hit the rewind button and rewind the film. Then check things out and see if they work then. If so the roll of film is shorter than you think or the counter is off, or the roll has stuck together. If, after you rewind the roll and remove it, it still doesn't work, you will probably have to have someone work on it. You can check this board for previous posts about cameras getting stuck with the film wound but the shutter not cocked or vice versa. I know how to handle an A-1 in this condition, but not a AE-1.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Apr 5 09:07:00 2001 ):
Benny - No fuse in the A series. It is more likely a problem with one of the circuit boards. There are people with stocks of parts that may be able to fix it for you, but it may cost more than buying another one.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Apr 5 09:05:48 2001 ):
Tony - The Off Camera Shoe Cord 2 will work fine with an A series camera and A series flash. I just tested the combo with my A-1 and 199A. The flash fires,a nd "talks" to the camera. Canon was smart, the T90 and EOS do use 5 pins versus 3 on the A series, but 3 of the 5 pins line up with the A series. The extra pins do nothing as there are no contacts at either end of the cable to work with. If you want to check out your cable, the A series uses the center pin and the two pins at the back of the connector. If you use a PC cord like someone mentioned, the flash will not set the shutter speed or aperture on the camera. There was also an after market cord called a Duo Sync cord. If you really want one, I have one, and don't need it since the Off Shoe Cord 2 works.
From Janice (Thu Apr 19 23:07:27 2001 ):
I have a Canon AE-1 Programmer Camera and I need a flash that will work on it I have worn out two flashes. Does anyone know where I can buy one now. Thank You
From Kackarass (Wed Apr 18 04:03:53 2001 ):
Harry, Mate you have to get a broken AE-1 for that piece or check with your local camera repair shop. Get a good used one and you will have all the parts you need from you broken one, It s tough when you know what it needs and you can t get that part. Good luck mate
From Harry (Tue Apr 17 02:15:44 2001 ):
I have a Canon AE-1 which I use for work. The film advance lever, however, is controlled by a small flat metal disc which has a piece of metal which the lever engages to turn advance the film. The piece of metal is broken off and gone. So I can't use my camera. Anyone have that piece flat metal with a rectangular hole that advances the film when one turns the lever. Thanks.
From Charles (Sun Apr 15 21:54:03 2001 ):
Bryan, If the lens work on manual settings when mounted on the camera and not when the lens is set for auto. Remove the lens and looking at the back, at 3.30 (between 3 & 4. O-clock) set the lens to auto you should see the little pin pushes out that informs the camera that the lens is in auto mode. If the above checked out OK, then the problem is with the camera. If the problem were oil on the aperture then the lens would act the same whether in manual or auto. I think the problem is with the camera. I wish you good luck anyway, Charles
From Bryan (Sat Apr 14 06:51:44 2001 ):
Thanks Robert, that's what I thought too but wanted to see if anyone new if this was a common problem.
From Bennie (Sat Apr 14 03:44:37 2001 ):
David, My friend got a kit on eBay to fix the squeak $30.00 with the destruction yes destruction and special hypodermic needle with oil. Now the camera is well lubricated still has the squeak and the shutter curtain has oil all over it. The shop wants $120.00 for a used shutter. Look for Winston on this board he does excellent work I lost his information when my old computer died.
From Robert King (Sat Apr 14 01:58:10 2001 ):
Take the lens to a camera store that has a good repair department and have them check it. It sounds like the lens's aperture blades may be sticking, which is a problem that is known to occur on Canon FD lenses.
From Bryan (Fri Apr 13 12:12:44 2001 ):
I have a Canon AE-1 with the FD 50mm lens. In manual mode the apperature adjusts properly according to the F-stop that is set. However, when set to "A" mode the apperature cocks wide open and will not close even when taking a shot. I have tried replacing the battery. Taking shots in ALL types of light and nothing seems to work. However, when you snap the shutter it appears that the apperature moves slightly, maybe a hair, but it does move, just not the distance that it should. Any ideas out there? Thanks
From David (Fri Apr 13 12:11:55 2001 ):
Hi I have 2 AE-1 Programs, and they both have the famous squeak when the sudder goes off. Is this a big problem to picture quality? If so can it be fixed? By me or does it need to be a pro? Any insight would be great. David
From Willie (Fri Apr 13 08:07:12 2001 ):
Oman, Short answer no. Put a piece of tape over the 2 small pins on your AE-1P and mount the Pentax flash on the camera. Set the camera on 1/60 sec. and aperture to what ever the flash is set to, the camera will fire the flash (Manual)
From Joe (Tue Apr 24 05:49:05 2001 ):
I've tried to use the Vivitar flash on my AE-1 Program, and the photo comes out with one half of the picture dark. Why? I haven't tried another flash yet.
From George (Tue Apr 24 04:06:00 2001 ):
Steve, That is one of the problem with the older 35mm focal plain shutter cameras. You need to use the most powerful flash that you can lay your hands on, and using 1/60 sec or slower set the flash to equal the existing light or less depending on the result your are trying to produce. Most times you would not want match the existing lighting But just need to lighten up the shadows a bit. I wish you luck and let us know how you make out.
From Steve Vyse (Tue Apr 24 00:15:35 2001 ):
I've been using AE-1's and an A1for the past few years and have just hit a problem. With a 60th sec synch speed, am I right in thinking it is not possible for an A series caamera to take a flash assisted daylight shot ? I needed to fill some shadows the other day and couldn't wwork out how to do it....or is there an obvious trick I'm missing?
From Bob (Sat Apr 21 19:33:23 2001 ):
Does any one know how to do multi exposure on my AE-1? Is this possible on the AE-1? Thanks for any help, Bob
From Smusty (Sat Apr 21 19:26:13 2001 ):
DW, The winder A2 had a top speed of 2 frames @ minute, (Run with 4 AA battery) and the Motor drive MA (12AA battery) frames @ minute
From Bumbob Rass (Sat Apr 21 06:23:03 2001 ):
Glen; The A-1 is the top dog of the A Series. For a little extra I would an A-1 every time. You can check out there info on this board. You need to find a good lens for your EOS 1000F like a Canon 28-105 USM
From dw (Fri Apr 20 22:38:30 2001 ):
Any opinions on the advantages/disadvantages of Power Winder A2 vs. Motor Drive MA? (for use with an AE-1 Program) Thanks
From Glen (Fri Apr 20 22:34:44 2001 ):
I'm considering the purchase of a Canon A-series but I'm a bit confused by the differences between the A-1, AE-1 and the AE-1P. I'd be extremely grateful if somebody could outline the basic differences (good and bad points) between these models. The AE-1P is obviously the newest of the batch but is it necessarily the best? How come some of the A-1 prices are higher that the AE-1P? Especially considering the A-1 is a much older (and therefore less advanced??) model. Or is the A-1 more advanced? Any help would be much appreciated. I've currently got an EOS 1000F and it takes terrible pictures!!
From Simon (Fri Apr 20 09:51:04 2001 ):
Janice Any camera store should have a flash that will work on your AE-1 P. Sorry I didn t answer your question first post.
From Simon (Fri Apr 20 09:45:52 2001 ):
Janice Were they Canon flashes that you worn out? If you are having problems finding Canon A series flash try Vivitar flash. Happy hunting
From Joe (Tue Apr 24 05:49:11 2001 ):
I've tried to use the Vivitar flash on my AE-1 Program, and the photo comes out with one half of the picture dark. Why? I haven't tried another flash yet.

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