Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 851-900 |

From Terry Carraway (Tue Feb 29 21:56:42 2000 ):
Ed - Before I shot more film, I would check things out. Open the back and point the camera at a light and trip the shutter, you should see light as the shutter opens. With slow shutter speeds, you will see the shutter open, then close later. Run it several times at each shutter speed. Make sure the shutter opens each time and sounds the same. For slower speeds you can see the timing, but at higher speeds you have to listen. Also, did you actually shoot 24 shots? The other problem may be film advance, in that the camera is advancing too far (unlikely though). Another thing, with the lens off, trip the shutter looking into the front of the camera, watch the mirror to make sure it is swinging out of the way quickly and consistantly.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Feb 29 21:51:39 2000 ):
Jim - The smell is probably some form of mold or mildew. I would wipe them down with a almost dry cloth with 91% isopropyl alcohol (not regular rubbing alcohol, it has other junk in it). Also if the camera is in a leather never ready case, toss the case. I would also check the lenses very carefully for internal fungus growth. To see this hold the lens up to the light looking through the front of the lens. Look carefully for any signs of junk in the lens.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Feb 29 21:46:31 2000 ):
Stephanie - Replying to you directly defeats the purpose of a board like this, in that the answers are there for others to use also. As to your question, the AE-1 uses a center weighted averaging. The meter averages the light from mainly the center of the viewfinder to set the exposure. It does actually average from the entire viewfinder area, but most of the reading is taken from the center area.
From Stephanie (Tue Feb 29 05:30:47 2000 ):
Hi everyone! (nice posts..heh heh) I was wondering if someone could do me a HUGE favor and actually reply to my email adress, seeing I'll probably forget to come back and have a look here. I have an AE-1...great stuff...but I wanted to know this: Does the Ae-1 average the exposure, or does it do spot metering? I was having trouble taking shots in a relatively dark room, and I was wondering what technique I should rely on for exposure.... thanks a lot...appreciate it.
From Bert F (Tue Feb 29 04:41:49 2000 ):
Cannon cameras? What does EOS mean?
From jim5618 (Tue Feb 29 03:09:26 2000 ):
The man with the stinky camera does indeed have great wisdom Her Dr. Albinar products were imported into the United States from Korea by a one man company in New Jersey; the owner's name was Jack Gershon. (I may not be spelling the last name correctly.) Mr. Gershon distributed Albinar products through Sears and Roebuck and Best Products Company. (Best filed for bankruptcy in 1996.) Sears and Roebuck required Gershon to supply parts for Albinar equipment under warranty which needed repair. Parts were provided to Photo Tech (the former authorized warranty service center) as needed. Mr. Gershon passed away several years ago, his import company closed its doors, and the parts source dried up.
From Philip Chong (Sun Feb 27 20:33:43 2000 ):
TO VLADAS: That depends on what you will be shooting. If sports and nature are your favourites, the Motor Drive MA makes sense. If you only want auto film advance, either the Power Winder A or A2 will do fine but the A2 is the better choice. Speedlite 188A is the companion flash for the AE-1P but it lacks bounce flash capability. The Speedlite 199A (for the A-1) is a better deal if you can find any. The best hot-shoe mounted Canon Speedlite will be the 299T, designed for the T-series cameras but can also be used with any A-series models, retaining the ease-of-use found on the A-series Speedlites plus another feature, user-selected f-stop from f/2 to f/16.
From Vladas (Sun Feb 27 07:16:50 2000 ):
WTB: Conon winder A, A2 or motor drive MA, speedlite 188A or similar, grip (handle) for AE-1P
From Rick (Sat Feb 26 13:18:22 2000 ):
To Dr. S I like to talk about cameras and I like a good laugh too. I didn't know what to think of your comments at first but now I can hardly stop laughing. Keep it up.
From Dr S (Sat Feb 26 12:28:33 2000 ):
To Barefoot. Thank you for your confidence. Ich kenne nich das Albinar FD lenses. Nothing in our IBM mainframe database. Maybe an East European lens from Albania. Nein, not likely. Most likely Japanese manufacture as a house brand custom made for some U.S. company. Didn t those come as complimentary lenses in plastic wrap free when the Mc Donald Happy Meal first came out. In the post Armageddon days it is sure to be a collector's lens. See funny I try, but my elevator does not go all the way to the top of the shaft sometimes, ach. Talk to the gentleman mit the smelly camera and lens on this page, maybe he knows..For deodorizing cameras, try a vinyl cleaner for the leatherette. And small bursts of outdoor sunlight..Gut luck both of you. Dr.S c/o Sitting Bull Geyser, MT.
From Emma (Sat Mar 4 02:52:08 2000 ):
Terry thank you for yor reply I am a ver keen amature at the moment so sometimes I am not sure if it is a stupid question. He says that he can see light lines running up and down one of my recent assignments but I think it is reflection on the ice of the sea scape that I took. When my winder is on every one says that it seems to wind slow but they all have new EOS 1n's and the like, once again thanks for trying to help.
From Gary (Sat Mar 4 01:05:43 2000 ):
Want to thank everyone for the wealth of information on this board that helped me diagnosis the camera back seal problem affecting my A-1 and provided the insight to get it repaired properly. No matter how simple the question might seem, the resident expert always gives some useful information in return. Repeated references to the A-1's shutter screech problem also were helpful. Now my question. How do the early Canon FD breechlock lenses compare to the S.C. and the later "new FD" lenses? These are the old FD lenses with an "0" mark instead of the "AE" mark on the aperture ring and do not have S.C. or S.S.C. labeling. Of course they do function in the AE mode, but how do these compare in picture quality to the newer lenses?
From Terry Carraway (Sat Mar 4 00:24:40 2000 ):
Karah - Lots of places can work on your camera. Where are you so we can give you a location that is most convenient? I use Strauss in Washington DC for my repairs.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Mar 4 00:23:40 2000 ):
Emma - How is he determining this? Film is pretty tough and resistant to stretch. If it really is, try taking the winder off and seeing if that solves the problem.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Mar 4 00:22:31 2000 ):
Mark - Both. The New and Old FD has to do with the lenses, they both work on any FD mount camera. The Old FD lenses ave a silver locking ring that is turned to mount the lens on the body. The New FD lenses turn the whole lens to mount. They have a silver button to unlock the lens. The otehr difference is all New FD lenses, except the 50mm f1.8, are multicoated. With the Old FD lenses only those marked S.S.C. are multicoated, the S.C lenses are single coated.
From Karah (Fri Mar 3 20:51:37 2000 ):
I am having a problem with my AE-1. I have replaced the battery with no success in fixing the following problem. When I depress the shutter button it does nothing. I can get it to work if I set the self timer but it will not do anything when I press it. Does anyone know of a service center address where I could send my camera to be repaired.
From martha elena gómez sánchez (Thu Mar 2 07:44:33 2000 ):
deseo comprar una cámara AE-1, pero me interesaría saber el precio que ustedes me ofrecen, para adquirir una de ellas. Por favor Respondanme. desde México, ¡ saludos...¡
From MarK (Wed Mar 1 21:16:40 2000 ):
Hi, I have an A1, what is the lens mount ? New or Old FD...
From emma (Wed Mar 1 10:24:03 2000 ):
I have a Canon AE1 which I have been very pleased with, however I have just started a photography course at a local college and in my last assignment my instructor said that my camera is not functioning proprly it is stretching the film. What are the signs of this I do not see anything, also I have just started using a winder (A) could this be the problem, if indeed there is one.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Feb 29 22:00:12 2000 ):
Dr. S - AFAIK the movement of the shutter is still via springs. What is now electronic and uses magnets is the shutter timing and release. The old shutters needed adjustment since the speed as timed by a mechnical device, that needed occasionaly adjustment. Some of the newer vertical traveling shutters may use some form of electric drive, but the A series uses a refinement of the old Leica shutter.
From Gary (Wed Mar 8 01:20:36 2000 ):
Thanks everyone for the great information about the Canon lenses. Terry's advice is always the best around and Dr. S is very entertaining--"Luftwaffe Special"--still laughing about that one. Some weeks ago, someone asked about the Albinar lenses made for the A series cameras and since I have a 28mm f2.8 J.C. Penney lens I wondered whether it was the same Korean manufacturer who made both of these after-market products. Although it seems to me that the Albinar 80-200mm zoom lens I have produces better quality pictures than the J.C. Penney, sometimes I wonder why I bother to use any of these after-markets when I could be using my Canon lenses.
From Jim5618 (Tue Mar 7 22:27:30 2000 ):
Emma, As a percaution, check the foam seals for the film door. I had intermitant streaks and that is what the cause was. intermitant depending how you hold the camera and how long before you take the next picture.
From Dr S (Tue Mar 7 14:27:43 2000 ):
Terry, Dr s learns something every day here and on Mr. Rogers Neighborhood. Coatings improved over the years, so that the refractive index and method of depositing them gives all good light transmission in the FD line. I guess that is my whole point is all. Although I have Fujinion nice Binoculars that say 99% transmission I doubt it has any practical effect when I look at stars which are all little dots anyway. I stand to be corrected if it has any observable significance. Since Canon dropped the distinction between SC and SSC I guess all the current crop of lenses are goodstuffs. Mein whole point was that my oldest lens has so little flare ,even with its shiny chrome front bayonet, and so great transmission,how can that be. Not even an L lens with aspherics or fluorite is it. I think that internal baffling and anti-reflection paint inside and attention to assembly and design is important. Which is why I have advised people to buy the Canon optics in my writings in this esteemed board. On the other hand, one can scarew it all up by using a haze filter or working with a rubber-generic shade instead of a Canon shade or shooting into the light without shielding the lens with a sombrero. Anyway, thanks for the correction. Never assume mom said. Dr S c/o Seltzer Springs, MT.
From gregr (Tue Mar 7 10:39:36 2000 ):
I am trying to get a flash for my friends AE1. Ive located a 188 and a 199a. Can any one tell about ythe two? Features functions?Thanks Gregr
From Emma (Tue Mar 7 04:11:46 2000 ):
Terry once again I thank you for your reply I agree with all that you say, so now I am going to get back to what I think photography is all about. I'm going shooting. Thanks.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Mar 7 03:07:31 2000 ):
Dr. S - Not even all the New FD lenses are multicoated. All expect the New FD 50mm 1.8 are. For the old FD mount, only those marked S.S.C. are multicoated.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Mar 7 03:06:35 2000 ):
Emma - You have a power winder, NOT a motor drive. It is designed to only drive the film at a speed of about 2 frames per second. The EOS cameras are capable of twice that speed, so they of course wind faster. All motor drives tend to drive at one speed, the maximum, to be simple. As to your "stretching" problem. I do not see how that could occur. The film is not held in the cartridge in any way, so it will spool out as fast as the winder can pull it. The only possible way would be if you are holding the camera such that you are putting pressue on the rewind crank, preventing the film from spooling out smoothly.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Mar 7 03:03:42 2000 ):
Gary - The older lenses with silver filter mount ring may have more flare problems, and a couple of them are not as good as later designs. But overall, they work well.
From Dr S (Mon Mar 6 08:38:27 2000 ):
Dr S to Gary. All lensmen have an opinion on the FD lenses variations.It gets pretty crazy. My experience as an early user is that my oldest lens, a breechlock, round circle 100mm f2.8 and no AE lock even, mit silver end of barrel, a beauty, circa 1972 is my sharpest and loveliest lens. Canon only once in a while made many changes to the lens formulas, usually to add internal focusing with cams, or to increase maximum speed. All the FD lenses from day one were multicoated and gave good results whtever they put on the ring. Spectra shmectra doesn't seem to matter. The lens mount of the new FD is faster to mount by a squeak but there is no evidence that it is less solid than the breechlock chrome ring types. A lot of this business has to do with salesmanship of course, the good US way. One bright fellow found a bunch of lenses stamped U.S. Navy and got the idea to market them as tougher than off the shelf FD lenses.Piffle. If (I were smart here in the shaft I would spray paint some AE cameras Desert Fox Gray and sell them on the E-Bay as Luftwaffe Specials. Hey, I better not give you any ideas or you beat me out to the punch.) Zum Wohl, Freunde. Dr S c/o Basalt Bend, MT
From Sascha (Mon Mar 6 01:12:14 2000 ):
I need a new Wolfram-Wire for may Canon AE-1. Canon Germany can not help.
From Tim (Sun Mar 12 02:01:44 2000 ):
can someone put my curriosity to rest: is the 299T a better choice for the A1 camera than 199A flash? what are the features that one has over the other? thanks
From Mr. Ed (Sat Mar 11 07:25:41 2000 ):
Terry, I will sound ignorant and say that how do I check to see if the depth of field preview is set on?
From Terry Carraway (Sat Mar 11 06:49:10 2000 ):
Emily - Any of the 100 or 200 series Canon Speedlights will work with the AE-1. I think the 177A was teh model designed for the AE-1. The 199A was the top of the line for the A series, with more capability and more power. There are also third party flashes that will work with your camera. I would recommend getting one that is designed to be "dedicated" to the Canon A series, or has available modules to make it do so.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Mar 11 06:47:08 2000 ):
Mr. Ed - Something is wrong. But first, make sure you put the lens in A (automatic) BEFORE you mount it on the body. Also make sure that the Depth of Field Preview is not set on. I remember some caveat about the first from long ago, the second will most definately cause the camera to show M.
From Dr Strangelieb (Fri Mar 10 14:11:28 2000 ):
Dr S to Tom. Something is rotten smelling in the state of your zoom lens. Before you give up check the levers and pins on the back of the lens-play with them some. It is possible on some older lens to lock the lens into a manual mode as I remember. I hope that is the case for you boobele. Gut luck. Dr S c/o Buffalo Chip Bend, MT.
From Mr. Ed (Fri Mar 10 10:47:13 2000 ):
Looking for some insight on a Canon FD 70-210 lens. I recently purchased this for my A-1 Camera. When the A-1 is set on Program and the lens Aperture ring set to A the lens the view finder indicates Manual operation. Shouldn't this FD lense work like my 50MM and allow the camera to set the proper Aperture? I'm thinking I bought a bum lense. Pictures are ok only when I control the Aperture.
From emily (Fri Mar 10 09:28:37 2000 ):
I was wondering what flashes can be used for the canon ae-1. Thanks very much!
From Terry Carraway (Thu Mar 9 21:05:05 2000 ):
BenF. - We prefer to give answers here since they can then benefit everyone. You will never go wrong in buying a circular polarizer. They will work on any camera that a linear polarizer will work on, plus they will work on those that a linear willnot work on. But anyway, you need a circular polarizer for you AE-1P. In fact you pretty much need a circular polarizer for any F series, A series, or T series Canon camera.
From Ben F. (Thu Mar 9 11:17:04 2000 ):
Hi! I've got an AE-1 Program with the standard 50mm f/1.8 lens, and I want to buy a polarizing filter for it. Problem is, I don't know whether I need a linear or a circular polarizer. Any help? Please email me ASAP!! Thanks! ~Ben~
From Terry Carraway (Wed Mar 8 23:36:39 2000 ):
Emma - That is what it is all about. Have fun. - Dr.S - Since there is only one "SC" lens left, there is no reason to use up extra paint putting S.S.C. on the lenses. - Gregr - Both the 188A and 199A will work fine. The 199A is a little more powerful, and it has a few extra features. I would go with it. - Gary - If it works, go for it. But if you don't already have one, I wouldn't take the time to pick up a free one. :)
From Terry Carraway (Mon Mar 20 21:13:35 2000 ):
Etienne - You might try activating the multiexposure leverl (small lever under the film wind lever). Move this, and then try to wind the film. I have had my A-1 get to the point where the film seemed to be wound, but the shutter was not fully cocked. This fixed it. Of course the "switch" or the battery are other possiblities.
From Dan (Mon Mar 20 10:28:00 2000 ):
I own a Canon A-1 and want to purchase a 70-210 zoom for it. I've narrowed it down to the Canon 70-210 f4 and the Vivitar Series 1 70-210. I can find the Series 1 for quite a bit cheaper than the Canon but how does it compare optically? I guess I want to know which lens would be the better choice. I'm strictly an amateur but I'm fairly critical about the quality of my photographs. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
From Dr S (Mon Mar 20 00:56:30 2000 ):
To Jack. My best guess, and I have a PHD and an H2SO4 you know, is that some old lenses have rear elements that will bang up against the camera parts or the mirror.I will not sign no affidavits. When you see a sign that says Radiation Don't Enter Jack are you always thinking what can the radiation do anyway. Scientific curiosity is good of course Jack. There is a for sure answer, so who will make the call to Canon Tech support and see if they even remember? Dr Strangelove c/o Bagel Bluff, MT.
From Diane (Sun Mar 19 22:37:01 2000 ):
Help! When I was taking a picture with my AE-1, the shutter clicked but stopped.The view is dark (like the shutter is still closed)and the film advance will not advance and will not go past the halfway point. What can be causing this? I put in a new battery, but that did nothing. Can anyone help with this? Diane
From Jack (Sun Mar 19 20:40:16 2000 ):
I am hoping to clear something up... Is it possible to use a Canon FL 58mm f1.2 lens on the A-1 in the manual mode with stop down metering? The manual says "do not attempt" but will it work? Will it harm the lens? (maybe Canon perfered it's customers to go out and by new FD lenes?). Any insights Dr S? Thanks....
From Dr S (Sun Mar 19 07:52:15 2000 ):
Dr S to Etienne. Here are some possibilities. The A-1 shutter lock lever could be on the red L position by accident. Or the camera battery could be dead or the contacts in the chamber need cleaning. Or the film is jammed so that the camera can not wind and cock itself fully. I am wracking what is left of my once awesome brain here in the mineshaft since I got hit last year by a stalagmite or a stalactite, now I can't remember which is which kind. Bonne chance, Etienne. Hope it is a simple thing we both overlooked maybe. Dr S c/o Guano Falls, MT.
From Étienne Boulanger (Sat Mar 18 22:18:22 2000 ):
hi guys, i just got a used A-1 but i think there is some sort of problem. Is there some kind of reset button to reset the shutter because i think mine is stuck. I cant find a way the release the shutter. Is there somebody to help me ??? I have a guaranty but i would like to keep it ! (i took like 10 pictures with it and then the shutter when stuck) please help me! tank bye
From Terry Carraway (Wed Mar 15 02:30:45 2000 ):
Mr. Ed - To check if the stop down lever is activated, remove the lens and look at the lens mount area. At the bottom, there is a silver lever, if that is to the left and a red dot showing, the stop down lever it activated. Now for the bad news, I pulled out my A-1 and 70-210 lens. If you mount the lens with the stop down activated, you get no aperture readout in the viewfinder. The behavior I mentioned does happen with the T90. So I did some more looking. The signal lever that the lens tells the camera what aperture is the smaller of the two silver levers on the back of the lens. It rotates to the end of the track counter clockwise to tell the camera that the lens is set to automatic. It doesn't move, unless the lens mounted. I used a macro hood to check this out. So first, I would check for any debris or such that migh prevent the lever from moving to the end of the track. If you can see anything, it will be time to take the lens to a repair shop and have it checked.
From Kai Pin (Mon Mar 13 01:38:47 2000 ):
FOR TIM: Yes, the Speedlite 299T is a better flash than the 199A, even for your A-1 camera. It can do what the 199A could, bounce flash, slow-sync and automatic aperture selection via Tv and P modes - there are eight auto apertures to select from on the 299T or you can just set both the flash and camera to Program mode, focus and shoot. Unlike the 199A which can only be set for bounce flash at the 90-degree horizontal position, the 299T's flash head can be set 90-degree to the right and 180-degree to the left. Furthermore, it has four zoom positions, at 28mm, 35mm, 50mm and 85mm as opposed to the 199A's fixed 35mm position and 24mm with the supplied wide adapter.
From Gerry (Sun Mar 12 14:00:26 2000 ):
Hi Mr Ed. Admitting to ignorance is always the beginning of wisdom. The kind folks at Photography in Malaysia have made available the A-1 booklet if you dont own one. Try this page:http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/a1/manual/htm/pictorial1.html and look for the stop down lever next to the lens. Cheers and aloha. GS

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