Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 401-450 |

From Syd Croft (Tue Oct 17 07:31:02 2000 ):
Winston, I appreciate what you are saying and I have a lot of respect for Jessops, but in this instance they cannot help me. They have looked but there are no BW-58C lens hoods available. The problem is made worse by virtue of the fact that a 'universal' screw-in type lens hood will not do because it prevents the zoom mechanism from winding in and out. The only thing you can do to prevent happening this is to only half screw the lens hood in position. Then of course there is the danger it will fall off, as happened to me in Milan recently.
From Dave (Mon Oct 16 10:59:36 2000 ):
First, I want to congradulate everyone on this wonderful site. I discovered this while doing research prior to purchasing a Canon A-1. Love the camera, but have one small problem. I'm missing the cover for the motor drive. Any help or suggestions regarding finding this is appreciated.
From Winston (Mon Oct 16 06:32:03 2000 ):
Cyd: Have you tried Jessops? (WWW.jessops.com) For new and used cameras. They are all over the UK. Syd: I am sorry for the name change. I got a lot of photo equipment from Jessops of Leicester when I was living in the UK. They had the best prices too. All the best & Good luck, Winston
From Syd Croft (Mon Oct 16 04:05:04 2000 ):
Does anyone know where I can buy a BW-58C lens hood for an FD 35-70 zoom? Preferably in the UK.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Oct 13 20:24:43 2000 ):
Kimi - It may or may not be for your camera. It should say somewhere on the lens what mount it is for, and you need Canon FD mount lenses.
From Irwin (Fri Oct 13 11:14:30 2000 ):
Say.Mickey. It's me one last time on the flower shooting business. There is a popular book that everybody raves about. "Closeups in Nature" by John Shaw, a big time shooter. I recommend this one before you go shopping again, really. It will save you money I gurarantee it. You can see from Terry's suggested menu of options, You got at least three maybe four/five ways to 'slice the pastrami' for close up work with Canons. I think you may want to start with your 50mm and add a closeup screw-on accessory . Shaw like the ones made by Nikon as bargains, but Canon makes screw on closeup lenses too. We are talking maybe sixty dollars for a Nikon 5T "diopter" (they call them diopters but noone knows why or cares,except eye doctors :-)who have their own language with diopters and stuff) Anyway sir, the Shaw book is only twenty pesos and has lots of pictures. I wish you well old nature lover. Irwin Schmedrick, USNR RET
From Kimi Ceridon (Fri Oct 13 02:14:01 2000 ):
If anyone can help me out I would appriciate it. I haven't updated much on my camera in years and frankly, haven't even really used it much. I decided to pick it up again and to make a long story short, I got a great price on a Vivitar 75mm-205mm, f3.8, close focusing, automatin, fixed-mount zoom lens that I purchased for my old AE-1. Maybe presumptuously, I assumed it would fit my Canon AE-1, however, there seems to be a rattle when I mount it and it just feels loose. I feel pretty stupid on this situation, can someone shed some light and wisdom my way.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Oct 12 20:04:27 2000 ):
g - No. The only Canon bulk film backs are for the various F-1 models.
From g (Thu Oct 12 08:46:48 2000 ):
Is/was there a bulk film back available for the AE-1 program?
From Terry Carraway (Wed Oct 11 19:54:42 2000 ):
Mickey - There are a couple of ways of doing this. 1) Buy a macro lens. These are lenses designed for close focusing. The Canon FD 50 and 100mm macro lenses focus down to the point that the image on the film (actual negative) is 1/2 life size. 2) For more magnification, you use extension tubes. These are hollow tubes that move the lens away from the body to allow closer focusing. Both the Canon macro lenses are designed to be used with an extension tube of 1/2 the focal length to give 1:1 magnification. You can also use extension tubes with your current lens to get closer focusing. 3) Use close up lenses. These are like filters that screw on the front of your lens, but are actually lenses. The best are multi element, but the single element ones may work for you. 4) You can get a bellows setup. This will allow you to get images that are larger than lifesized on the film itself. Probably not useful for flowers, unless the flowers are VERY small. In your case, I would consider getting the Canon FD 100mm Macro lens if you are planning on doing this a lot. For occasional use, I would use close up filters.
From Ron (Wed Oct 18 23:52:24 2000 ):
FINALLY THINKING OF SELLING: My 1980 Ae-1, perfect condition, a1-winder newly bought perfect, one 70-150mm, one 100-200mm w/macro, vivitar flash,.........new batteries in everything also. ANYONE HAVE A REALISTIC IDEA WHAT IT'S WORTH AND/OR INTERESTED? I'd appreciate it.......
From Winston (Wed Oct 18 23:02:44 2000 ):
Lisa: I mention the meter only to confirm that the camera had power. Most time the magnet only needs cleaning cost from $30.00 and up depending on the repair shop. The more it cost the more its worth. : ) This problem could come and go if not fixed, and on the other hand if it is used daily it could work with out this problem. All the best. Winston.
From Lisa (Wed Oct 18 19:58:23 2000 ):
One more thing, I did not check the metering of the battery when the camera would not fire. Now let me explain - the metering was just fine, when the camera had no film and it "suddenly" began to operate.
From Lisa (Wed Oct 18 19:54:41 2000 ):
Thank you leofoo for your suggestions - I will try that - I did exactly everything with the battery that you warned against. Winston, the release magnet - would that be an expensive item to repair/replace. Also, might this problem come and go? Thank you both for your advice.
From Winston (Wed Oct 18 18:43:41 2000 ):
Lisa: Did you notice if the meter was working when the camera would not fire? It sounds like the release magnet may be sticking or on it s way out. It is normal for the advance lever to be stuck when the camera shutter is cocked, it will only move after the shutter is release. All the best, Winston
From leofoo (Wed Oct 18 13:01:36 2000 ):
***LISA***: Sorry for not addressing that in the manual section, as this could apply to general maintenance of hardware. Make sure the battery contacts (+ or - surfaces) are clean. As most problem arised from automatic cameras were battery related. Sometimes, even an invisible film left behind by your oily fingers can affect proper contact between the power cell and the electrical contact inside the battery compartment (Do check the little spring inside is too loose to provide a proper grip to the cell). Generally, as a guideline in normal camera maintenance and care, never hold any power cell(s) in the center, only at the side. You may use a clean cloth to clean off a light layer of oxidation, or a better option is a pencil eraser from your children (or your younger ones) pencil box to remove heavier deposits that may deposited at the cells' polarity marks front and back or at the contact points (battery clip) inside the camera battery compartment. After correct installation, insert the holder back into the battery chamber using a coin to screw it securely into place and your camera will be ready to function. If it doesn't, open and check the polarity marks on the cells again and see that is the culprit. Should the battery be left in the battery chamber for a long period, insufficient contact may occur due to battery leakage. Thus, it is good practice to periodically clean the battery (Or consider remove the cells from the camera) and the contact section in the battery chamber with a soft cloth. If the battery chamber is contaminated by a leaking battery, remove the battery at once and clean the chamber. Before doing so, try to clean and removed any deposits remains inside, esp. the clips housed inside (or the housing itself) and do a few test shots. If the metering circuit still inactive, I would strongly suggest you to send for examination of the damage done. Your problem could more likely be "corrosive" contacts that holds your power cell.
From Lisa (Wed Oct 18 09:32:52 2000 ):
I have been reading the Canon AE-1 web site. I have a Canon AE-1 that I purchased new in the summer of 75. I recently replaced the battery, as the shutter would not operate. The new battery lasted two days and suddenly the shutter would not operate again. I purchased another battery and the shutter still would not operate. I removed the roll of film and left the camera for several hours. After finding the AE-1 information on this web site, I grabbed my camera to see if the battery had life and suddenly, my shutter was operating properly. I could advance the film (had there been film in the camera - there was not at this time), I could also depress the shutter. Any suggestions as to what happened here? Why would it not work and then all of a sudden work? I couldn't advance the film nor operate the shutter. Might I mention that this all happened on Friday the 13th? I hope that someone will take the time to offer their thoughts on this mystery. Thank you.
From Winston (Wed Oct 18 05:15:15 2000 ):
Syd: That s a good idea by Terry, I was going to say use a step down filter adapter and use a screw in lens hood to fit the adapter. You just need to check the wide angle for any vignetting. I knew you had to be using you camera outside the UK if you wanted a lens hood, The sun doesn t shine in the UK : ) All the best, Winston
From Terry Carraway (Tue Oct 17 20:52:32 2000 ):
Syd - Get a cheap filter, used, scratched, whatever will work. Carefully break the glass out of it. Put this on the lens first, then the generic screw in hood. The filter ring will act as a spacer and allow the lens to zoom. Also watch eBay, hoods come up fairly often.
From Winston (Tue Oct 17 11:04:11 2000 ):
Dave: Try the camera repair shops,if you don't have any luck send me a stamp address envelope and I will send you one. Click on my name and send me an e-mail for my address. all the best, Winston
From Lisa (Sat Oct 21 21:04:41 2000 ):
I have another problem with my AE-1. The shutter has been operating since I cleaned the battery compartment. Now when I take a picture, and advance the film, the image I see in the view finder is dark. I removed the lense and the little mirror inside (forgive my ignorance - I don't know what it is called) is tilted. After lightly touching it, it falls back in place and when the lense is replaced and I look in the view finder, everything is light and clear as it should be. Any suggestions? Probably time to take it to the camera doctor possibly - it is 25 years old. Thanks for any suggestions you can give me.
From Irwin (Sat Oct 21 13:04:31 2000 ):
Dear George. There is a good reference book on line at another link page called "Canon Lens Work." Lots of photos and descriptions of the zooms. I think Christian somebody in France scanned it for the gang. One other thing you need to know about zoom country. No zoom is perfect at all zoom lengths. Meaning even a sharp zoom like the one I recommend has some barrel distortion. This is a pretty large lens with a 72mm front filter. But it is lightweight and well balanced. The front rotates as you focus. That is only a problem when you think about mounting a polarizer (which you dont want to rotate). No biggee though.This lens uses some plastic in the construction, but its heavy duty plastic and seems to take a beating. Also the lens has a macro setting which comes in handy once in a while. Guess you see I like this optic and would recommend to my family and friends. Be well and prosperous. Irwin S. USMC RET
From Irwin (Sat Oct 21 08:02:38 2000 ):
George, you got the right idea. Look for a Canon FD mount lens. That means it will fit the A series cameras (and almost all of the Canon manual focus cameras). You picked a winner in the FD zoom 35-105mm F 3.5. It is the nicest all purpose zoom Canon made in the affordable category. They pop up in nice shape from 225.00 to 300.00. What to look for takes a lot of words. Clean glass, no signs of dents or bruises. Smooth movement of the focus and zoom controls. No stickiness of the aperture blades. What else? Oh yeah look down the barrel with a little mag light to spot gunk and fungus on the inner elements. Hard to clean. This is your best bet, better than the multiple f range zooms. Very sharp. Terry Carraway can vouch for this lens. See his comments in the FD link at the bottom of the page, bulletin board section. See, how can you go wrong with friends like us. Be well, Irwin Schmedrick, RCAF RET
From george (Sat Oct 21 05:36:34 2000 ):
I have a Canon AV-1 bought in 1980 and not used very much but compared to the point and shoot type of cameras my results with the AV-1 have been excellent. I want to buy a zoom lens - say a 35-105. Not being very camera literate, I am lost with the info I find here on the different types of lenses. My questions: 1. Will any of the Canon FD lens fit the AV-1? 2. What should I look for when buying a used lens? 3. What is the functional /user experience difference between the 35-105 f3.5 and the 35-105 f3.5-f5.5. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance; george
From Terry (Sat Oct 21 04:52:17 2000 ):
Thanks for the feedback Winston and Irwin. Yeah, that's the question. Last year's service cost me $125, so now I'm wondering about the long term cost vs performance issues. Would it make sense to get it fixed and then try to sell it? I doubt I could sell it as is. The other interesting thing I noticed this morning is that when I pushed the shutter, the light meter came on for just a second and then went off, so tonight when I get home I'm going to try cleaning off the battery points as was suggested in a previous message. I can always hope for a simple solution, eh? Terry
From Steve (Fri Oct 20 19:54:04 2000 ):
Hi I am after the instruction manual for the canon speedlite 577G, I was wondering if anybody might know where I could find it on the internet.
From Irwin (Fri Oct 20 13:52:51 2000 ):
Terry, I agree that pushing the rewind disengages the wind clutch and you got that back working. Sounds like the shutter release is something else. Any of these lil buggahs can be fixed. Trouble is nowadays it costs 35 dollars for me to get out of the Jiffylube. I think its fair to ask whether you would want to spend more than fifty dollars on a camera worth maybe $125.00. That's just me. The AE-1 had a big sister the AE1-P and the A-1. Both niftier cameras. So think it over. Love can strike twice in a lifetime:-) says Irwin. Be well. Irwin Schmedrick, USA RET
From Winston (Fri Oct 20 11:58:03 2000 ):
Terry: Pressing the film rewind button did not hurt anything, sounds like your camera needs a service.$30-$80. Check out your local camera repair shop, or click on my name to e-mail me. All the best. Winston
From Terry (Fri Oct 20 02:11:51 2000 ):
I have a Canon AE-1 that I bought used in 1990. It has been a great camera, but lately it has proven unreliable and the most inopportune times. I had it cleaned and serviced for sticking of the shutter (it was closing, but then sticking and not reopening on some shots) last year. A month or so ago, I was going to take a picture (film in the camera) and I accidentally touched the film release button on the bottom of the camera). So, I moved the shutter forward to re-catch the film. That worked. But since then I can't get the shutter button to do anything. I removed the film, replaced the battery, tried to put new film in and nothing happens. Any advice? Did something happen when I pressed the film release button? If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate it. I am getting to the point where I'm not sure whether the camera is reliable enough (or is it me?) to continue to put money into it for repairs. Thanks. Terry
From Syd Croft (Thu Oct 19 07:58:00 2000 ):
Winston, Re your remark 'I knew you had to be using you camera outside the UK if you wanted a lens hood, The sun doesn t shine in the UK' Oh yes it does, and it is so beautiful that when the sun does shine, you forget it ever rained.
From Winston (Wed Oct 25 07:49:57 2000 ):
Lisa: The EOS A2e Eye controlled Autofocus, only work in the Horizontal view, the Elan IIE eye controlled autofocus works in Horizontal as well as Vertical view. Same with the new Elan 7E.If you are selling you old AE-1 I will buy it for parts if the price is right. All the best.
From Winston (Wed Oct 25 07:36:51 2000 ):
Frank:The problem you described could be the meter or the piece of string/wire that works with the meter. Cost to repair $40.00 Good luck Winston
From Terry Carraway (Tue Oct 24 20:10:35 2000 ):
Courtney - I don't use a case on any of my cameras. I just use a good strap and avoid swinging it around too much. To me a case adds weight and makes it slower to get the shot. And over 20 some odd years, the worst that has happened is some of the black paint has rubbed off a couple of corners of my A-1.
From Irwin (Tue Oct 24 11:56:41 2000 ):
Courtney, if you want the original AE-1 case by Canon I guess that means eBay. If you just want protection from light rain and dog saliva I recommend you order a generic case made by Zing. It's Neoprene and comes in sexy blue,maroon and black. See you can color coordinate by buying a couple even at the low price. B and H and camera stores near you will sell Zing accessories. They aint bad until you find a leather one later on. Be well mon ami, Irwin S.,Le Lejon Etrangere,RET
From courtney (Tue Oct 24 10:50:38 2000 ):
I Was recently given a very nice AE-1 PRogram camera, but I need the case to protect it. Does anyone know where I might find such an item?
From Terry Carraway (Mon Oct 23 21:22:10 2000 ):
George - The Canon FD 35-105 f3.5 is a superb lens. I liked mine so much I bought a second one. The 35-105 f3.5-4.5 is not as good a lens as the f3.5 version, but it is not bad either. It IS a lot smaller and lighter than the f3.5. It also takes cheaper 58mm filters versus 72mm filters. And most of the longer Canon zooms (70-210, 80-200, 100-300) also take 58mm filters. But for outright performance, get the f3.5. I actually own both, and use them depending on the use. I tend to use the f3.5-4.5 in brighter conditions where I know I will be working in the f8-f11 range for more sharpness.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Oct 23 21:19:07 2000 ):
Lisa - The mirror sticking can be one of two things normally. One, the foam bumper that stops the mirror from slamming may be getting soft and sticky. The second is the result of the infamous Canon A series shutter squeek, which is actually in the mirror dampening mechanism. For the foam, the fix is very cheap, and you can actually do it yourself. For the second, you are looking at about $35 - $50 for just fixing that or $80 - $150 for a complete service of the entire camera. For an AE-1 I would hesistate to do more than fix the shutter. WRT a new camera, how many FD mount lenses do you have? If only one, go EOS. As always, put your money in lenses not bodies. The Rebel 2000 is fine, as is the Elan II, or even the A2, or others. For starters get either the 24-85 or 28-105 or 28-135 lenses. These are much better lenses than the 28-80 that normally comes in the kits. Or get primes, the EOS 50mm is very inexpensive. If youhave several FD lenses, look at a different FD body, like an A-1, T70 or T90.
From Sue (Mon Oct 23 07:01:24 2000 ):
I'm looking for a flash for my Canon AE-1 Program. Anyone know where I can get one???
From Lisa (Mon Oct 23 02:24:24 2000 ):
Any suggestions on camera models if I decide to purchase new camera vs. repairing my 25 yr. old AE1 - Canon EOS Rebel or Canon AE2 or another model - and why. My AE1 has a 50mm 1.4 lens. Thanks
From Frank Carter (Sun Oct 22 05:29:57 2000 ):
Anyone ever have a problem with a sticking exposure needle in the viewfinder. Frozen in the upper top above f/22-------- Thanks Frank snapper530@aol.com

rom Winston (Fri Oct 27 05:00:05 2000 ):
MarK: I am sorry, the back messages are about true macro lens. A 2x converter Doubles the focal length of any lens that is mounted on it but you also lose 2-f stop. With a 50mm f1.8 mounted it becomes a 100mm f4. Jessops do a reversing adapter too which allow you to mount a lens backwards for close up shots but you have to stop the lens down manually. I would try the close up lenses first, and if you really want to do close work look at canons macro lens. I think they come in a 50mm and a 90mm or maybe it s 100mm I use a 90mm macro lens made be some other company (V) and I thank they all come with Extender/ one to one converter or some thing like that. I don t know what the 2x macro converter is may be just another name for one of the above. All the best. Winston
From MarK (Thu Oct 26 22:43:05 2000 ):
Winston, What is the difference between 2x Extender B and 2x Macro Convertor and how do they compare with close up lenses ? thanks for your help, I'm reading old, messages as fast as I can, but I didn't find anything regarding the above
From Winston (Thu Oct 26 22:08:09 2000 ):
MarK: The things you screw on the front of the lens are close up lens comes in set of 3, #1, #2, #3, I think #3 will be the strongest magnification and you can use them one at a time two together or all together. Check the older messages here for information on Macro lens from Terry Carraway and Irwin. All the best Winston
From Winston (Thu Oct 26 21:52:02 2000 ):
Dave:My friend is a Camera mechanic cost to repair your lens $40.00. Click on Winston and e-mail me for info. if your are interested. All the best Winston
From MarK (Thu Oct 26 20:12:26 2000 ):
Hi all, I was about to purchace a second hand 2x Extender B from jessops, through the net, and in the listing there was this 2x Macro Convertor, what's the difference between the two, if any ? and what is that thing you fit infront of the lens like a filter to increase magnification called? What do you suggest I purchase n order to take better close-ups, I have a 50mm F1.2 and a 70-210 F4-F?? Thanks for your help MK
From Irwin (Thu Oct 26 13:20:40 2000 ):
Dave,dave, a word to the wise.Me, I had that same decision. My breechlock FD 50mm 1.4 (like one of the family) got some haze, not much,way inside, but it meant-- ugh... disassembly. And that runs- now,don't quote the Gipper, about 80.00 to 125.00 plus shipping. Blades, according to this fixer guy Tomasy(?) in his repair books usually mean solvent,and careful messing.Look up that Tomasy book on Camera Maintenance Vol I and II its good stuff, keeps me humble anywhay about tearing into the stuff and warranting it. (I know, I know, always somebody pops up that does lens work for hobby and pleasure, but I meant here the shops that pay taxes,have addresses not PO Boxes and that work on lots of FD lenses like Japan Camera in Norcross Georgia and whatsisname Strauss in downtown Washington, D.C... Ok,irwins personal decision, I found a mint used lens with a new style mount for 75 bucks. No contest here. The old one, I keep to look at slides on the lightbox. Way back when Canon factory fixed them it was cheaper and faster, the old days. That's just my little story.Yours truly, Irwin Schmedrick,Hon.Order of Masons,RET
From Dave (Thu Oct 26 11:10:09 2000 ):
I have an old 50mm 1.4 FD lens that sticks, resulting in overexposed shots. I can see signs of grease on blades. Camera store said it would cost more than buying another (used) lens but didn't quote a price. Any recommendations on where to go for quality service? Any good or bad experiences with servicing lenses?
From andy (Wed Oct 25 10:13:22 2000 ):
I have an old ft ql that has developed a torn shutter screen. can this be fixed or should i be looking around for another camera body. will something other than an ft body work with with my fl lenses. i have three and one is a 55mm 1.2 that i like a lot. please advise on my options. aau
From Winston (Wed Oct 25 08:03:36 2000 ):
Sue: Any Canon speedlight 155A,177A,199A will work with your AE-1P I have a Canon speedlight 420EZ for the EOS cameras and it on the A-1 the same way as the speedlight A's. Good luck. Winston
From Irwin (Wed Oct 25 07:57:17 2000 ):
I agree with Terry again. An eveready case Courtney is a hindrance to taking pictures, because you have to unfold it and the flap always falls in front of the lens and stuff.So, not for me neither. Just a shoulder camera bag or fanny pouch is better with film and junk and snacks and stuff. Seems like the camera *protection* idea is a tradition thing. The AE-1P is not that delicate. And you can use a UV filter over the lens.Hey, Remember when all gusts used to wear fedora hats?(Me neither, just kidding!.) Now if Courtney rides the Maid of the Mist or the ferry to Sausalito or somethin and no camera bag, then better the eveready case over nothing I think. Not 'Dee Rigoor,'for Irwin either. Be well, eat organic, use 45 sunscreen.And so forth. Irwin S.,USGS RET

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