Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

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Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 501-550 |

  1. From Lori (Wed Aug 16 08:40:26 2000 ):
    John, It can only be screwed onto certain A series cameras. I know the A-1, AE-P and I believe AE are the only ones. The AV, AL, and AT are not compatible with the action grip. Am I right?


  2. From John Page (Wed Aug 16 04:35:46 2000 ):
    I have found an action grip for my AE-1 and I was wondering if anyone knew how to install it. There doesn't appear to be a mounting hole visible. I don't want to go poking around blind.


  3. From Terry Carraway (Tue Aug 15 20:54:39 2000 ):
    Rachel - The plus of getting the AE-1P fixed, is that there are a lot over very good lenses available at a good price. The bad thing is, you still have a 20 year old camera. They are great cameras, and do a wonderful job. Personally I would stay with the AE-1P, but then again, I do hang out here. :)


  4. From Rachel (Tue Aug 15 14:51:54 2000 ):
    I am a college student who wants to get into photography. My stepdad has an AE-1 Program, but the clicker thing and winder thing is broken (sorry...don't know the proper terms). He took it to the shop and they said that it woud cost around $130. My question is, would it be better for me (a know nothing photographer looking to learn some stuff) to get my stepdads AE-1p camera fixed, or should I just look into buying a new camera (like a rebel2000 or pentax zx7). I'd appreiate any advice on what to buy, or why keep the AE-1p. THANKS!!!


  5. From Terry Carraway (Mon Aug 14 20:23:30 2000 ):
    Stephanie - I would tend to go wider for landscape and go with a 24mm lens. As for brands, I wouldn't bother with off brands, but buy Canon. You will pay more, but they hold their value very well. So if you don't like it, you can sell it for about the same as you bought it. And if you like the focal length, you don't have to then buy the Canon and sell the off brand.


  6. From Winston (Mon Aug 14 04:41:48 2000 ):
    Stephanie: I would try your 50mm and a 28mm f2.8 lens for your landscapes,and maybe a 70-210mm f4 zoom for your people shots. For starters I would try the none canon brand first to see if the above focal lenght are what you need, Or better still if you could borrow them,you know do a test drive. Any lens that say canon FD will fit your camera. Good luck


  7. From Winston (Mon Aug 14 04:16:28 2000 ):
    Kerry: You should replace it or have it done, Check the light seals too open the film door, at the hinges on the door and on the body rub your finger on the 2 strips of black rubber if they are sticky or crumbling they need replacing.You could do this your self but you could damage the mirror and or the focusing screen when you are cleaning off the old foam for the mirror.They are other light seals on the camera but the above 2 are the easiestto test. We replace all the light seals and mirror foam for $30.00.If you don't have a camera repair shop closd by, send me an e-mail for more information


  8. From Kerry (Mon Aug 14 03:18:49 2000 ):
    I have an A-1. I noticed the little foam piece inside the body has crumbled to nothing (situated at the top part of the lens opening). I guess it was used as a vibration damper for the mirror when it flips up. Should I do anything about it?


  9. From stephanie (Sat Aug 12 23:11:07 2000 ):
    Tom, I just noticed that you had a reply to my question. Thanks for all the info. I really like the fish eye look. I will look at that site that you suggested. Yes I noticed that the Sakar zoom lense does have some quality issues. Thanks, Stephanie


  10. From Stephanie (Sat Aug 12 22:59:23 2000 ):
    Winston, Andrew, Jojo Yes, Winston you know me. Thought i'd give you a break.= )Well one area of photography I love is landscaping. I have a Sakar auto zoom Mc 1:4. It's not all that great. It needs alot of light for the picture to be in focus. It basically is for maybe really close up detail? I also have the regular lense that came with the Canon Ae-1P. I'd like a zoom lense, with the regular lense I have, I feel like i'm invading peoples personal space to get the right shot. I am not planning on buying anything anytime soon, just trying to get educated. So when I do have the money I know what I want. thanks for the advice. We have one camara shop here, they have no competition. So really there is no shopping around to do here anyways. I will go in and see what they say though. I have looked on ebay, but I have no idea what i'm looking for. My original question was what brands work with Canon ae-1p. And then out of those which would be the best investment? So if you could help, I would appreciate it. And I will go look at that site Jojo. I printed out almost all of the site on ae-1p, guess maybe i missed that part. Thanks again! Stephanie Winston, the camara is working great, I pretty much got the hang of it all on our week vacation. Thanks again.

  11. From Stephanie (Fri Aug 18 21:59:20 2000 ):
    Rachel, I just had to make that decision you did. I am a student also and still learning all this stuff. My father gave me his old Ae-1P and it needed to be fixed. I just recently had it fixed and I really enjoy using the camara. I would highly recommend getting it fixed. Being that you are just learning about camaras it will be so much easier to understand how a camara works with the Ae-1P. Before I used a Canon Rebel, and it is great but I never fully grasped how the camara functions until I started working with my Ae-1P. If you have more than one camara shop, shop around and see if they can fix it for a lower cost. Another thing, you might talk to Winston. He's the guy that helped me out. Happy hunting!


  12. From Andrew (Fri Aug 18 10:45:38 2000 ):
    Winston, Hearing your comments about the newer EOS system reinforces my recent decision to stay with the older Canon AE-1P and upgrade to FD lenses. Although I did some extensive research ( some of it at this excellent site)I still had some reservations about investing in older technology. Having heard similar comments to yours about the newer AF cameras, I know I made the right decision. I'm glad I stayed with my older camera, and the pictures look great.. Andrew


  13. From Winston (Fri Aug 18 08:31:55 2000 ):
    Gary:Your problem is one sign that the main chip is going bad. Would cost too much to repair even if you had the parts, Sorry for the bad news. Enjoy it while it s still going, Could go for years.


  14. From Winston (Fri Aug 18 08:13:58 2000 ):
    Terry: I agree with you to a point. I am hooked on canon and there FD lenses, but Stephanie sounded like she didn't know which lenses would suite her, and was saving to get them. Though I would give her some encouragement while the interest is still there, and I know the result from a cheap lens could turn some one off photography for good too, but remember that she is only just learning so if she follows the basic rules of how to take a picture she should not get excessive flare, and her landscape she would be stopping down so that will improve sharpness. Plus now that she knows how good these canon lenses are she will have that to look forward to. If this was an experience photographer thinking of switching to canon cameras I would only recommend the canon FD lenses, well may be my Vivitar series 1 90mm :)I have been trying out some canon EOS auto focus cameras and can t find any to produce a good sharp image, got to keep them A-1s going.


  15. From Gary (Fri Aug 18 00:26:28 2000 ):
    When I'm using my A-1 outdoors I sometimes have trouble reading the LED meter numbers because the readout seems very faint. I've read somewhere that the LED has several brightness levels and is supposed to adjust automatically but this can be frustrating when it happens. The battery is almost new and the A-1 checked out fine in the shop. Could seating the plastic eyepiece of the view finder on my glasses instead of my eye be the problem? Thanks for all your help.


  16. From Terry Carraway (Thu Aug 17 19:55:50 2000 ):
    Winston - My point is, if you buy a Canon lens, you are virtually quaranteed to get your money back out of it. If you buy well, you may even MAKE money upon selling it. And if you like the focal length, you are set, you don't have to sell a cheap lens and then buy the good one. It is also harder to evaluate how you might like a focal length when the lens doesn't perform very well. You might end up not liking the focal length due to a cheap lens's poor sharpness, poor contrast, excessive flare, etc. not becuase of the focal length. That is not to say that some third party lenses aren't quite good, but a lot aren't, and even in the good ones, the sample to sample variation is much higher than with Canon lenses.


  17. From Andrew (Thu Aug 17 17:47:05 2000 ):
    You're absolutely right, Winston. There's no use spending good money on a lens until you know what you want in focal length. Andrew


  18. From Winston (Thu Aug 17 09:31:46 2000 ):
    Andrew: I was telling Stephanie to buy none Canon lens or borrow to see which focal length lens would suite her type of photography. As you yourself said you plunked down some bigger bucks for your canon Zoom I don't think she needs to do that when she don't know which focal length is close to right for her. I am not saying the quality is any where close to canons. Did you replace your wide angle and 80-200mm zoom lens with canon? or did you just get the 35-105. I have seen none canon lenses in the above focal length sell for as low as $5.99 and they can produce acceptable prints. And good enough to test to see if the focal length is what you need. I have canon lenses as well as a Vivitar series1 90mm lens and I don't have a canon lens that comes close to this vivitar.


  19. From Andrew (Wed Aug 16 18:55:40 2000 ):
    Stephanie, I agree with Terry. Go with the Canon lenses if you can. They're excellent performers and hold value. I have 35-105mm 3.5 which I used almost exclusively. It's a sharp lens and a pleasure to use. When I first got my AE-1 Program I bought a cheap noname wide angle and 80-200mm zoom lens and was never happy with the quality of the pictures with them. Finally I plunked down some bigger bucks for the mentioned lens and what a difference. Andrew


  20. From Jojo (Wed Aug 16 11:01:47 2000 ):
    ***John Page+++: The AE-1 has an action grip (Actually it is the cover for the battery compartment), see: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/ae1/basic1.htm . On the other hand, the AE-1 Program has a removable type just as A-1; to mount a grip see: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/ae1pgrm/html/basic1.htm

  21. From Gary (Sat Aug 26 01:09:44 2000 ):
    Winston, Thanks for the advice but at my age maybe my eyes will burn out before the A-1's main chip does. Now for my question which is something that doesn't make sense. I understand the basic story about using a shutter speed that is about equal to the focal length of the lens when shooting without a tripod, I can use a shutter speed of 125 with a 135mm 2.8f lens without a focus problem, but why can the Vivitar 550FD flash function automatically on my A-1 at the set shutter speed of 60 with the same 135mm lens but without a tripod and without a focus problem? I just don't get it. Thanks for everyone's help and the benefit of your experience.


  22. From Pierre (Fri Aug 25 08:51:04 2000 ):
    I just want to say that the AE-1 P is one of the best camera ever! I have one (it's as old as me!) and i don't think i'd change it for a newer camera! By the way, is there anyone who knows where i can find used lenses in France?


  23. From TomR (Thu Aug 24 21:49:15 2000 ):
    Stephanie, SSC is super spectra coating. In the ancient days of the breach lock FD mount, lenses were either SC or SSC. In later versions of the breach locks, and in all the bayonet mount lenses, they were all multi coated, which I understand is the same thing as SSC.


  24. From stephanie (Thu Aug 24 08:52:20 2000 ):
    Hello. I have found a Canon FD 100mm S.S.C. lense. I am wanting to use this with my ae-1p. What does S.S.C. stand for?


  25. From Joe (Tue Aug 22 08:46:54 2000 ):
    I am just wondering if anybody has an idea as to about how much an AE-1 Program sells for. Please E-Mail me with any info. Thanks. -Joe


  26. From Rafal Andronowski (Sun Aug 20 01:48:54 2000 ):
    This is a great site. I have never seen anything so informative or well organised. Congratulations! now for my message: I have a AL-1 camera. I am looking to buy a motor winder for it but cannot find the model number. If anyone knows the model number of winder(s) compatible with my camera, please e-mail me. Thanks.


  27. From Maintainer (Sat Aug 19 18:20:17 2000 ):
    All the messages will be compiled into a series of PDF files (100 messages per segment). I am converting them halfway and changing the scripting of the Message Board using CGI rather than MSQL as well. Perhaps, that is one of the reasons why I am opposing posting Buy and SeLL messages and encourage the use of a different Message Board in the dedicated FTZ (Free trade Zone) section. Have a good weekend, everybody.


  28. From Vladimir (Sat Aug 19 12:01:40 2000 ):
    First of all....compliments for this excellent site. I enjoyed reading through most of the 680 messages that are posted here. Wish I had some of this information a long time ago.This brings me to the subject : is there any way the information here can be organized and saved as a FAQ site ? Downloading and Reading through every page of 10 messages is an almost impossible task. I ended up using my office computer (high speed connection) to access every page , cut, copy and then paste it into Word. Took me about 1 1/2 hours but at the end I had a document of 100 pages which I could easily read throough after I printed it. It would have been impossible (and a strain on my eyes) to do this with a computer monitor. I was able to print in the office with a printer allows me double side printing and 2 pages per side. Ended up with 25 sheets of paper that were easy to read at home. I've saved it as both a word.doc and word.txt. Would it help the sys-adm to have this and to post it separately in your site (if it can be done)? This way newcomers like me could access and download this document and not have the pains of spending 10 hours looking for a particular subject. Can I share this document with other Canon FD sites ? I don't want to step on anyones turf or infringe any rights. Can the information in a word.doc be cut up into sections for a FAQ type area on your website? Please advise me what you think and again thanks for such a great site for photographers and Canon enthusiasts.


  29. From Terry Carraway (Fri Aug 18 23:43:36 2000 ):
    Stephanie - There are several Canon lens brochures that show you the same shot with various focal lengths. "Canon Lenses in a Nutshell" is one. They are sometimes available from camera shops in their used booklet bin, or via eBay. Also most basic camera texts show the difference of using various lenses. For a basic kit of primes - 24mm for landscape, 28mm would also work; 50mm for general use; 85mm or 100mm for portraiture (fast lenses are nice to throw the background out of focus). For the longer lens stuff, 300mm is a good basic length for various uses such as sports. For wildlife, you need as long as you can afford, and then some.


  30. From Stephanie (Fri Aug 18 22:25:04 2000 ):
    Andrew, Winston, Terry,..... Thank you for all the different opnions on the lenses. I enjoyed reading you guys discussions. I am a student and learning, but I don't think I will ever give up photography if that was a concern. I have had a camara in my hand since I was 5 or even younger. So there is no worry of anything discouraging me in photography. It is a love of mine. Now the one zoom lense I have (Sakar) is not good in my opnion, it isn't sharp and it was very disappointing. Of course it did not discourage my love for capturing frozen images, it just helped me realize that I wouldn't buy a Sakar. I would really like a good sharp lense. Of course I have no idea which lense is for me. So it maybe good to buy a cheap lense and get an idea. And 5.99 i don't mind spending, who would? I would like to know where I can find these cheap lenses. I thought about renting some and seeing which ones were best for me, but they don't do that here. Or does anyone know of a good book on lenses that may actually give a picture as to how the image would turn out? That would be nice. Thanks again!

  31. From Jacky Wong (Sun Sep 3 14:46:07 2000 ):
    Hello all ! I have a canon A1 body and recently I found the LED display inside the view finder sometime shows strange or imcompleted digits but sometimes normal, this appear in both the AV/TV mode. Does anyone know if there is a reset fuction for the micro-processer inside the body ? if so, please email to me. Many thanks


  32. From Irwin (Wed Aug 30 02:47:53 2000 ):
    Dennis, if you need glasses and you can't see with the glasses on then you might find the dioptric lens accessory helpful. Might. It is a little rectangle of glass in a frame that slides over the finder eyepiece grooves. They dont cost much and if you hunt around you can find one. The only way to really know which one is to try some out and that's the big problem. If you were near a Canon Center I'd say ask them for their test gadget with the different corrections. Otherwise, a big dealer who carries any kind of brand diopters is my suggestion. I mean you can even hold a Nikon ( forgive me) diopter chip over the eyepiece and get an idea. For nearsighted you might need a big minus correction. But which one, who knows. Gonna take some hunting, but they are out there. (And buy the way I hear that some Pentax diopters fit in the A camera grooves, how about that for a discovery). Good luck,be well. Irwin Schmedrick.(Not physically qualified for the Navy Top Gun school anymore either,hah)


  33. From Terry Carraway (Mon Aug 28 21:16:52 2000 ):
    TomR - Just a minor point, but not all New FD lenses are multicoated, the 50 f1.8 is not. And yes, the New FD lenses multicoating is the same as S.S.C.


  34. From Dennis H (Sun Aug 27 02:58:39 2000 ):
    I'm very nearsighted plus have retina problems, knowing this would a dioptric lense help my ablity to read my AE1 program messages and which one. Plus where can these be found these days? Thanks


  35. From Vladimir (Sun Aug 27 02:36:10 2000 ):
    Lito : The average selling price for this lens on e-bay (average of the last 8 months) is around US $145. Obviously it depends on the condition of the lens ...etc. Last 3 lenses sold were at the following prices : $ 78, $80, $153. The average price for a lens in excellent condition at sowewhere such as KEH.com is around $150.


  36. From Winston (Sat Aug 26 19:43:54 2000 ):
    Lito:Try ebay, I do have a canon Power winder A that I would sell if you need it, but not a lens. Drop me an e-mail if you are interested. I don't shoot any thing that I realy need a winder for,I can advance the film just as fast as the winder A. Good luck,they are alot of Canon FD lenses and winder around, you should have No problem finding your lens and winder.You need to know what the going price is first,I have not been watching the lens prices but I am sure some one on this Board will have the answer for you.


  37. From Lito C Macario (Sat Aug 26 17:38:42 2000 ):
    I need to find a 75-200 mm lens for my A-1 camera and a power winder. please help.


  38. From Vladimir (Sat Aug 26 11:05:23 2000 ):
    Pierre : In Paris near the Place de La Republique there is a street don't remember the name) as you head down towards the river (street I believe is on the right side of the Place) that has about 15 shops that sell used cameras, lenses, etc...). In fact I will be stoping by there on my next overseas trip to look around. Prices are as crazy as e-bay. Some stuff goes at 30% lower than US prices while other enses go for 20% higher. Good luck hunting.


  39. From Winston (Sat Aug 26 10:00:10 2000 ):
    Rafal: Any canon Power winder A or A2 should work with you camera.


  40. From Winston (Sat Aug 26 09:53:01 2000 ):
    Garry: The canon A-1 AE-1/P Flash synchronize top speed is 1/60 of a second if you use a higher shutter speed the flash will only expose part of the negative. They are two shutter curtains go to make up the shutter, on a fast shutter speed the first curtain opens and the second starts to close behind the first one so the film is exposed in little strips from right to left. At 1/60 the first curtain opens and expose the whole negative, then the second curtain starts to close to complete the exposure. The camera is set up to the fire the flash at 1/60 when to whole negative is exposed. So the flash will exposed the whole negative at 1/60 and any speed longer than 1/60. Back to your question the flash is only on for 1/4000 so it freezes the subject, and you have no sign of camera shake if the existing lighting is low, but if the existing lighting is high you could get a double image and signs of camera shake. The focus is the same with or without a flash. You can use a fast shutter speed to freeze a subject as well as a slow shutter speed when you use a flash as the main lighting. Hope this make some sense to you, if it doesn t, address your question to Terry, he has that special way to give you an answer that is clear and accurate as black and white.

  41. From Robert Brooks (Mon Sep 11 04:01:15 2000 ):
    I am interested in buying a Canon A1 camera. I already have 3 FD lenses. I see camera stores that have them for sale. Would one that is cosmetically rated at 8(Normal wear and slight scratches & light marks) be a good buy at $199.00. They do have a 15 day return policy. I want this camera very much but I don't want to get a piece of junk. Robert Brooks


  42. From Winston (Sat Sep 9 22:15:44 2000 ):
    Ken: If it's the plastic latch that is broken on the battery door you can make one out of metal. My friend Bill the camera mechanic make them out of brass and install them for $35.00 (labor and material)plus shipping.The battery door is more like the EOS and not the A-1/AE-1. The A2 winder will work with the AL-1 but with No remote control on winder. Good luck.


  43. From Terry Carraway (Sat Sep 9 19:43:53 2000 ):
    Ken - Look at the bottom of the camera. At one end there should be some electrical contacts, this is the opposite end from the cover that you remove to connect the winder mechanically. If there are only two electrical contacts you shoud use the Winder A. If there are four the Winder A2 will work fine. WRT the battery door, unless the AL is WAY different from the AE/A-1, the winder will not interfere with, nor hold the battery door shut.


  44. From Ken Davis (Fri Sep 8 23:07:46 2000 ):
    Will the Canon Power Winder A2 work with a Canon AL-1 series camera, or do I have to use the Power Winder A? Either way, I am looking to buy a good used or preferably, NOS unit. I prefer the A2 if it will work as it seems to be a bit more streamlined in appearance. The original manual, carrying case, etc. would be great if used. My battery door is broken (as is common on this model) and I need the winder to hold the battery door closed (or use duct tape... *ick*). Also, an option would be replacement of the battery door if anyone has one NOS, as well. It's not a "great" camera, but I have a sentimental attachment to it as it was my father's. Thanks, and Best regards, Ken


  45. From Gary (Thu Sep 7 01:17:45 2000 ):
    John: Recently I bought a Canon 2X-B lens extender/doubler because I thought it might be fun to take some wildlife pictures--safe stuff like birds and butterflies. The extender really helps to turn my 80-200 zoom lens into a 160-400 lens but the downside is that it loses 2 "f stops" in the process so that its maximum aperture with the extender is 8f instead of 4f. This doesn't help with trying to shoot birds sitting on a tree branch in the shade but a lens extender could be the answer to taking elephant or moose pictures if there's a need to put about 100 ft between you and the subject Bullwinkle.


  46. From Terry Carraway (Tue Sep 5 19:59:50 2000 ):
    John - The only 150-600 I have seen for sale in recent years carried a price tag of $9000. You could probably work out a payment plan, but they wouldn't let you have the lens until you paid it off. Better to look at a 300 2.8L with 1.4x and 2x converters. Or maybe a 500 5.6L. These combinations are a LOT less than the 150-600.


  47. From Irwin (Tue Sep 5 13:58:41 2000 ):
    Dear John. I guess you read all the wildlife books. There is a Nature section at http://www.photo.net with a lot of advice on shooting meeses I think. Irwin sticks to rhinos and older elephants personally. But to get serious with your question, I kind of think you would be well to settle on a FD 600mm lens with a teleconverter. i havent used this kind of stuff, but the wildlife nuts say you gotta have 600mm. It should set you back about two two three big ones. Or a truckload of fresh salmon. Good luck. These big lenses are usually available in the photonet website ads too from some good characters. Check in there soon. And leave Bullwinkle and his family to graze in peace next tim. Your fotobuddy, in peace and war. Irwin Schmedrick, combat veteran.


  48. From John (Tue Sep 5 12:00:01 2000 ):
    Hi My name is John and I live in Alaska. I have three Canon Camera's..1)F-1 (2) A-1 (3) FTb I would love to have a FD 150-600 zoom lens. I know they stopped making them in the early 90's. I know they are expensive..however..I was wondering if anyone knew where I could possibly purchase for a used or demo lens of this nature for a affordable price? I am not rich , but maybe could work out something like a payment plan. The lens I have now..are the 85-300 zoom, 135 telephoto , 50mm, 28 mm, 70-210 Vivitar (which I don't use much). We live where we like to take Wildlife pic's and it would sure be nice to get this one. One year I was foolish and took my 135 telephoto and ran after a Cow Moose and her twin calves to get a picture...dumb... I should have known better living in Alaska as long as I have. You NEVER , and I REPEAT NEVER run after a Mama Moose with calves! She crossed a river which they were walking down and once she got to the other side she came after me and forced me to get behind some bushes..but luckily she retreated and took off..it could have been much worse for me! This prompted me to get the 85-300 lens after that..but this still does not get me where I can get decent pictures. So please..can you all lead me in the right direction? I would surely appreciate this. We live in a very small town in the Interior of Alaska and our computer is the only outlet for looking for things like this. I appreciate this message board! Thanks, John


  49. From Andrew (Tue Sep 5 07:58:29 2000 ):
    Rafal, The winder should not be noisy and slow. I recently purchased an A2 winder from KEH (bargain) which was also slow, noisy and inconsistent in advancing the film. I returned it and bought a mint (for more $$$ of course) winder from a local dealer, and it is quiet and advances the film crisply. You probably have a bad winder. Andrew


  50. From Rafal (Mon Sep 4 23:43:53 2000 ):
    Winston: Thanks! I tried a power winder A but don't like the way it sounds (loud, grindy) and is kind of slow (i can advance film faster)

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