Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 251-300 |

From Winston (Sat Dec 16 07:14:01 2000 ):
MarK: If you are close to the subject and your flash is too powerful to allow a f2.8 aperture setting cover the flash with a white handkerchief you may have to double it too. This is an old trick from when they were only manual flashes, used on bride and groom head shots. Good luck. Winston
From Terry Carraway (Fri Dec 15 21:30:33 2000 ):
VK Ramos - AFAIK all A series had cloth shutters. The F-1 had a metal foil shutter curtain. The T series switched to a vertical travel shutter and metal blades rather than curtains. WRT the T80 lenses, I have no idea.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Dec 15 21:29:02 2000 ):
MarK - With flash you have to adjust the flash output to match the required aperture. This can be done with a "automatic" flash, which uses a sensor to stop the flash when enough light is reflected, or by using manual settings. A Vivitar 283 with VariPower module or a Vivitar 285 will allow you to work both ways. It has 3 or 4 aperture settings, plus 4 manual power settings.
From VK Ramos (Fri Dec 15 19:05:03 2000 ):
I am from Philippines. Just two questions because I have an offer from a shop in Metro Manila. Can any of the three autofocus lenses designed for the Canon T80 be used on my AL-1 and still provide visual focus aid (Or electronic rangefinder system ) ? Next: I was told none of the Canon A-series SLR camera models have a metal shutter and only started from the T-series which Canon designed a new range of shutter with metal blades, is it true ? By the way, GREAT site !
From Geoffrey (Fri Dec 15 15:08:02 2000 ):
To Mark: there is an article which explains depth of field in a very easy to understand manner: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/fototech/apershutter/index.htm (The section will also lead you to another excellent resources at Canon Malaysia website). Yes, you don't need a dedicated Canon flash to go with your A1 because most of the time the features in all auto flashes are quite similar except the fact flash units manufactured by camera manufacturers are usually better made in quality and feel; some Canon auto flash also provides basic dedicated function such as A-1 will switches to the X synchronization speed of 1/60 sec. automatically which is not possible with some third party flash units. other than this, your Unomat auto flash is perfectly fine companion for the Canon A-1. In any auto flash (there is a meter cell incorporated in the flash body rather than in the camera to measure light reflected back from the subject to determine the exposure), the auto setting are usually limiting to a few f-stop which will set automatically with the distance safe to cover with the power output of your flash. Changing the aperture from the recommended aperture with auto range may, create some undesirable flash pictures (especially out of your flash working distance which will cause underexposures). I have been observing this board for quite a while when it was up and I remember quite clearly why there was a 'new' lens board (I remembered that was originated from a long debate at the T90 on a few "off-topic" debates); well to be fair, there are more than 10 FD models here and topic could well covered a very broad spectrum, it is not too bad of a idea to have a separate lens section as what the Malaysian host implemented. Anyway, the earlier answer by Mr Rhue could have raised some hot response from Mr. Gary - perhaps, there is nothing to do with the topic itself, but rather the way to handle with such an answer, that is all. I enjoyed the way Mr Terry Carraway, the maintainer who handled that issue where I think that was more convincing with his explanation, good work, Terry. Sorry if I have offended anyone. Peace (Don't have to mail me, use the board instead - mine is a false email.address).
From Rhue (Fri Dec 15 06:34:02 2000 ):
Mark,Holy Smokes dearie, I sure won't attempt to answer your question here and encourage this dithering, and I hope noone else on this board who knows all this stuff uses bandwith trying. Tell us why Rue, you Grinchette? Cause,1) It's not an A series question. My last post got (properly) bounced to another board as way off topic and your question is so off it belongs in the Oort Cloud. Really. But have you tried a general photo board like photo.net.com. Any gloomer question can fit there, even a valid but unfocused one like how flash and f stops and autoflash all work. If you asked me I could write a book, about the way you flash and focus and look.. Boy this punch is getting weak. Rhue Lovelaw
From MarK (Thu Dec 14 22:54:52 2000 ):
Hi, I have another question, this time, it's about photography, how do I control depth of field, using flash indoors, I tried using a larger aperture than that written on the back of my flash, and all I got is an overexposed picture, is it the flash, or the technique ? I use an A-1 and a unomat 'computerised flash' not dedicated to the A-1 !!
From Terry Carraway (Thu Dec 14 21:32:34 2000 ):
MarK - Are you talking about the Canon FD 100-300 f5.6? I don't know of a Canon 100-300 f4. If so, that is not bad, but not a great price. They sell for between $175 and $250 on eBay. You want to make sure you get the later version, there were two. WRT the teleconvertor, I would hold out for a Canon one. A friend picked up a Kenko one and it doesn't work with his 100-300 f5.6. I use a Canon 2x with my 100-300 f5.6 L series and it works OK, but the viewfinder is VERY dark (f11). I find that I prefer an f4 or faster lens with a 2x convertor.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Dec 14 21:29:32 2000 ):
James Wood - You need a Canon Macro Convertor (I think that is what it is called, I will have to check when I get home). It is a little plastic piece that pulls the aperture diaphragm lever over and locks it. You still have to turn the mount to the lock position, you can do this with a rear cap with the center cut out or take a pen and push the locking pin and rotate the mount (not hard, but not easy).
From MarK (Thu Dec 14 20:42:19 2000 ):
Hi Everyone, I came across a Canon FD 100-300 F4 in Very-good Condition, It's price tag is $250. I'm thinking to add a 2x Teleconvertor, but can't afford a Canon 2xB, so I found this Kenko (Hoya) MC7 2X converter (multi-element) for $50, what do you think about the deal, and what do you think about the equipment itself, as regards to performance? Thanks MarK
From Connie B (Tue Dec 19 06:51:00 2000 ):
Hello--I have a very dependable AE1, and am trying to find a replacement battery for it & having difficulty. Can you replace an alkaline battery with a lithium battery of the same size and voltage?
From Lawrence Wang (Tue Dec 19 05:53:25 2000 ):
thanks for the advice, Winston... i don't suppose the problem's something that i could take care of myself?
From Winston (Mon Dec 18 13:03:51 2000 ):
Lawrence:Your problem is the mirror box, needs a clean and lube, Not a battery problem. Cost from $30.00 and up. Check out you camera repair shop or e-mail me. Good luck Winston
From Maintainer (Mon Dec 18 10:48:52 2000 ):
**AlvinClark**: Your posting has been moved to the more appropriate section at: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/ftz/index.msql This meesage will be deleted three days from now.
From Lawrence Wang (Mon Dec 18 10:47:13 2000 ):
i have a canon ae-1... yesterday i took a picture and something went wrong... i took off the lens and realized that the mirror which is supposed to come back down to show the image in the viewfinder, didn't. i think the shutter curtain didn't advance all the way, also. the mirror isn't stuck; it moves back down when i move the metal lever in front from left to right, but a spring somewhere is pushing it back. this isn't a problem with the battery, is it? i didn't think that the mirror was controlled electronically. could it be an effect of cold weather? (i live in new york.) any suggestions would be _greatly_ appreciated.
From Jon Foster (Sun Dec 17 14:30:38 2000 ):
Does anyone have or know where to get the owners manual for the AL-1? It doesn't matter if it's on paper or electronic. I have one that my father bought me new about 18 years ago and it's only had maybe 20 rolls of film shot in it. I'm very new to photography (I need to learn allot) but some of the pictures I have taken with this thing are just incredible, then again, some are not at all nice. I know the bad pictures are due to my lack of knowledge but I'm working on that... Thanks for any help, Jon. PS. Has anyone ever had their AL-1 not take a picture? Every once in a while mine will not snap a picture. I press the shutter button but nothing happens. It's almost like the camera gets stuck (or it's not wound) then suddenly it will work again. It has only happened about three or four times...
From Winston (Sat Dec 16 23:00:18 2000 ):
Pete: Are you shooting slide or negative film? If it s negative are the negative thin? (Underexpose) Winston
From Terry Carraway (Sat Dec 16 19:31:18 2000 ):
Pete - A quick and eay check of a light meter is to set the ASA dial to 125 and command dial to Av mode and f16 aperture. Point the camera to a patch of clear blue sky away from the sun. Check the meter reading. It should read 125 shutter speed. This is using the old sunny 16 rule, which is for a sunlit scene, the exposure is 1/ASA (or ISO) shutter speed and f16.
From Pete (Sat Dec 16 10:46:19 2000 ):
My AE-1, which I've owned for 15+ years [gift fom dad] now looks like it takes pictures through a pair of sunglasses - i.e. dark/grainy exposures, even if meter reads 5.6 w/all auto settings. A local camera shop said I need a new light meter. Has anyone heard of this? Can it be fixed? I'd really like to keep using this camera. Thanks.
From Rhue (Sat Dec 16 08:58:53 2000 ):
Geoffrey, good effort. Terry, same thing. Automatic flash is a subject for textbooks and many guys and gals never really get beyond the manual that comes with the flash. Automatic (so called, and this can be a misnomer) can lead to overexposure (because there is a range involved.) Automatic can lead to problems because close subjects can be lighter than medium gray subjects. Even guide numbers can mislead if the subject is very dark, or too close, or the film has small latitude. So, and I humbly resubmit, this is question so simple opens the door to a lot of information that would take a book to explain. And if you asked me what book I am suggesting, these days anyhoo, one basic one called Mastering Flash Photography by McCartney is now in print. Vis a vis the tone of my last post on Albinar lenses. Twas not an ad hominem to Gary who clearly likes that brand and did some testing of it versus the Canon product. I demurred and said so rather directly. If my bluntness offended the Albinar fan, I hereby apologize and do a hasty retreat. I hope all can lighten up at least during this season about a little mild jesting or jousting or whatever. All the best, really, and let's hand it to the Maintainer and the Maintainer's Santa Helpers :-) Rhue L.
From Robert (Fri Dec 22 00:23:47 2000 ):
Roberto: The AE-1 Program is supposed to beep when you press the battery checking button, which is why you wouldn't see anything in the viewfinder. On the other hand, if you push the shutter button half way to meter, then you should see an aperture number lit up in the viewfinder which would indicate that the battery is producing a charge and that the electronics are working (although the meter and shutter may need to be calibrated). Also, make sure you are putting the battery in correctly - I found out how easy it is to accidentally put it in upside down the other day and you can't be too careful avoiding "Ooops" type mistakes.
From Tom Russo (Fri Dec 22 00:07:43 2000 ):
I have a A1 and want to get a flash..other than the canon speedlights (199, 188, etc.) what other brand flashes will work automatically? Thanks
From Roberto (Thu Dec 21 23:39:00 2000 ):
I have a AE1-P which I thought I would use again after a long time. I installed a new battery and check that it was working correctly by using the battery check button. When I look through the viewfinder and slightly depress the button I don't see any display. Any idea ? by the way I have a 35-105 FD lenses which I use with this camera. Regards Roberto
From Winston (Tue Dec 19 20:00:12 2000 ):
Jason:Check out the bottom of this page for the AE-1P and follow it for the manual. or call Canon 1 800 828 4040. Your AT-1 has a piece of plastic jamming up the gears, double click on my name and e-mail me or any camera repair shop should get your AT-1 going for you.Good luck. Winston
From Jason Richie (Tue Dec 19 18:28:32 2000 ):
I am the proud owner of a Canon AT-1. It has been the best camera I have ever had and have been using it for about seven years for everything I do but I have a problem. I went to take a picture one day and when I pressed the shutter release it sounded like it clicked half way and from that time on I can not wind the film lever or get the shutter to click. I also noticed that if I take off the lens it is VERY difficult to get it back on because there is a lever below the mirror that looks as though it is in the wrong position. Does anyone know what happend and if so can I get this fixed??? My other question is that I was wondering were I could order a manual for my Canon AE-1 Program. Does anyone know of a website or a fax number where I can order one? I appreciate any help!
From Winston (Tue Dec 19 12:31:00 2000 ):
Mike: You will have to get a used one from another camera,Look for a parts camera. Good luck. Winston
From Mike (Tue Dec 19 12:09:01 2000 ):
The film rewind crank on my AE-1 Program camera is missing. It is possible to rewind the film with out the crank, but inconvenient. Where can I obtain a replacement crank??? I can install it.
From Winston (Tue Dec 19 07:20:28 2000 ):
Lawrence:I think maybe you could do that repair your self, if you had a manual and a lot of time. It s my friend Bill who is the camera mechanic, I just relay the answers to the questions on this board. He has been repairing the A series cameras from 1976 and can fix them when the Canon repair centers say it s impossible to fix. Bill don t have a manual he said it would take too long if he had to follow the manual. Good luck. Winston
From Connie B (Tue Dec 19 07:16:38 2000 ):
Thanks Winston!
From Winston (Tue Dec 19 07:00:16 2000 ):
Connie: You can replace it with alithium battery of the same size and voltage. Winston
From Winston (Mon Dec 25 09:35:11 2000 ):
Dave: Sounds like your AE-1 needs a good service, This is Not a DIY job check out you local camera repair shop or e-mail for more repair info. Good luck. Winston
From Dave Thompson (Mon Dec 25 02:31:36 2000 ):
AE-1 it seems that the asa ring has stop work in the camera. I have change the asa for 25 to 400 asa the light meter stay at the same f-stop. the f-stop should gone from the f2 it was at 25asa to somewhere about f11 with that increase in film speed. the problem start when I went to change from 100 to 200 asa. the shutter stuck on the bulb setting on matter what shutter speed I tried to use, and the only way to close shutter was to remove the battery. After I got the shutter to respond to the correct setting. The asa ring would have no effect on light meter readings. Also the flash unit and camera would not be insink in either auto or mannual setting.
From Winston (Sun Dec 24 10:22:09 2000 ):
Joda: The battery door latch is the first thing to go on the AL-1 s If you still have the door you can fabricate a latch out of a piece of brass. Other option is to get a parts camera but as I said before the latch is the first to go. Good luck Winston
From Terry Carraway (Sat Dec 23 20:04:50 2000 ):
bill howell - The Angle Finder B is the right one, as it gives you a proper image, not reversed. Yes, you need the Adpater S, the Adapter R is the one for the F-1. In fact, if you pick up both adapters, you only need one Angle Finder and you can swap.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Dec 23 20:02:01 2000 ):
bill h - IT sounds like a little corrosion. I would use some fine sandpaper and remove any loose paint and to get down to solid metal. They touch up with model paint or auto touch up paint.
From Gerry (Sat Dec 23 03:28:00 2000 ):
The finder B has been around for a long while. It reverses the image properly. Has eye diopter adjustment and is a good piece of equipment. I bought mine, and I recall it came complete with the little metal frame adapter that slips over the eyecup rails even when boght new. When the little frame came off it would fit over the circular prism eyepiece of an early F-1 model. I think maybe these guys are easy to find used and for maybe fifty dollars I suspect. Canon's accessories are usually worth their cost and this one was not a rare beast. Good luck in your foraging. Aloha, GS
From TomR (Fri Dec 22 22:52:27 2000 ):
Bill Howell, It is the finder B you're looking for and you will need the S adapter to fit A or T series cameras ( or at least A-1's or T-90s) Check B&H or another shop for prices on a new piece before you overpay for a used item.
From bill h (Fri Dec 22 13:19:38 2000 ):
I have an A-1 with the MA drive. Picked up the motor drive used and some of the black paint has bubbled and flaked off in small spots, exposing the metal underneath. Anyone know the best way of handling the damage already done and how to stop it from spreading?
From Joda Ellis (Fri Dec 22 12:31:23 2000 ):
Need battery compartment door for a Canon AL-1. Any suggestions? Thanks.
From bill howell (Fri Dec 22 04:19:12 2000 ):
I am trying to get an angle viewfinder for an A1 and I think angle viewfinder B will work. Is adapter S necessary? Thanks
From Deidre (Thu Dec 28 12:12:26 2000 ):
Bart, I started to look up those two cameras in Carl Shipman's book, but I realized I dont understand how it does what except that the two cameras will operate with the variety of lenses you mentioned. The book says the "near autofocus" called quick focus is most sensitive with lenses over 200mm. The AV-1 seems to work ok with the special lenses. Best I can suggest is to get the book. Canon SLR Cameras by Carl Shipman. I am sure some other helpful seller on eBay will offer one. On the squeak problem, yes it has been covered in fair detail here and elsewhere. Winston below has a lad that will work on the squeak and knows where to drop that magic drop of lubricant. Good luck. Dee Bunker
From Bart Eleveld (Thu Dec 28 07:41:47 2000 ):
I've been thinking about acquiring an AL-1 because of it's near auto focus capabilities with standard FD lenses. But it's not clear whether it will work with non FD lenses like the TS 35 which has no auto aperture and a mirror lens which has no aperture at all. On the A-1, AE-1, AE-1p and T-90, these lenses work in the stop-down mode. But is there a stop-down mode on the AL-1 (or the AV-1 for that matter)? Or will the camera automatically adjust to the stopped down aperture of a manual lens? I have had an AV-1 in the past, and I know it metered with the diaphragm off of the A mark, but there was no way to manually stop down the lens, and I never had a lens with a manual diaphragm at that time. I have a suspicion the AL-1 meters like the AV-1, except that it does have manually settable shutter speeds.
From Bart Eleveld (Thu Dec 28 02:29:26 2000 ):
Has anyone tried the do-it-yourself shutter squeak repair marketed by the fellow on ebay? I just bought his "manual" for about $30. Turns out it is just a few xeroxed pages of instructions with 5 photos to guide you through the repair. It's pretty vague about where to inject/insert the oil. Wondering what the experience has been with this or if there is any past thread on this board.
From Jean-Luc RAULT (Wed Dec 27 23:07:34 2000 ):
Got a Winder A, and for some reason the LED is lit before the end of action, checked the batteries ok, checked that it operates off the camera for about 1 second, any idea is wellcomed. Where is it possible to get detailed technical views for a Canon A1, I need to fix this squiky noise.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Dec 26 20:45:52 2000 ):
Stan - There is someone who advertises flash shoe repair on Canon Speedlights. But I am not sure that it would be worth it. I think I posted it here previously. Or replace it, the 188A or 199A would be a better flash, and the 299T is the top of the line for A and T series cameras (except for the T90).
From Stan Gerick (Tue Dec 26 13:39:35 2000 ):
Well, my daughter just knocked the camera off of the table, and the shoe broke on the Canon Speedlite 177a. Any chance of having that part repaired or replaced? Or is the flash unit trash now. What would be a comparable replacement.
From Winston (Tue Dec 26 02:03:11 2000 ):
Mark: The Maintainers for this message board would like the replies posted to the board so that we can all benefit from each others information (Good idea) I some times will post a reply and e-mail it too, if it looks urgent. You should try to buy a parts camera to get the film rewind crank for your AE-1P, Check out eBay. Good luck. Winston
From Winston (Tue Dec 26 01:44:20 2000 ):
Katie: Sounds like you are doing it right as long as you set the flash at the ASA speed you are using. The Sunpak should work just fine. 1/60 is the fastest shutter speed when you are using a flash but you can use a slower speed for special effects. Good luck. Winston
From Katie (Mon Dec 25 23:59:14 2000 ):
I was wondering.... I purchased an AE-1, but got a sunpak flash. Will this setup work? I've taken one roll of film, using 1/60 shutter speed and a lens opening corresponding to the correct distance. I've been reading all these posts about the speedlite flash, I think that is what it is called, and about how that one goes with my camera. Thanks for your time.
From Mike (Mon Dec 25 10:17:03 2000 ):
Recently I enquired where I could get a film rewind crank for my AE-1 Program camera. Un fortunatly my e-mail address contained a typo, If you know where I could obtain a crank, plesae e mail to this address.

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