Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 351-400 |

From Winston (Mon Oct 30 09:18:35 2000 ):
Mickey: Check out ebay for Canons camera case, Good luck, Winston
From Winston (Mon Oct 30 09:04:58 2000 ):
Lisa: Check out this page. ( http://www.vision.net.au/~mhyland/CanonEOS50.html ) Not really a message board but it s a start. The Elan IIE and the later Rebels have a built-in flash not very strong, (light out-put that is) They have a red-eye reduction function and you need it too. Yes you can manual focus with the entire EOS cameras just switch the lens from auto focus to manual. Good luck, Winston. P S I am looking for Canon A series cameras for parts.
From Lisa (Mon Oct 30 07:32:24 2000 ):
Are there any message boards out there for the Canon EOS Rebel or Elan IIe? I am researching what camera to purchase to replace my AE-1 which has a 1.4 lens. I never had a picture with red eyes while I used this camera. Will the two cameras I mention be as good? Can you manually focus either one of these models?
From Mickey (Sun Oct 29 07:44:24 2000 ):
Anyone know where I can buy a case (even just the body part) for an AE-1? I didn't use the lense part of the case because I was always changing lenses, but I did keep the body part on because it protected the camera and also kept me from inadvertantly pushing the rewind button. Thanks
From Winston (Sun Oct 29 06:18:37 2000 ):
Andretti: If the shaft has fallen in the camera, use a piece of hard wire like a coat hanger. Put a bend on one end of the wire so it looks like a letter L the short piece of the L has to be short so it will go through the hole. Push the L shape wire through the hole and move the wire to one side of the hole and pull up on the wire, it should catch the under side of the hole, keep pulling up and the door should open. With the back open feed the shaft up the hole there is a small piece of wire inside the hole you will have to use a piece of wire to push it to one side so that the shaft will pass through. Then you can screw on the rewind knob. You will have to buy an old AE-1 and use the parts from it. Good luck
From Andretti (Sun Oct 29 05:20:19 2000 ):
After 20 yrs, my AE-1 is starting to fall apart! Lost the film rewind crank about a year ago--I've been using a black bag and manually rewinding the film. But last time I went to load film, the rewind crank's shaft fell inside the camera! I'm mechanically adept but can't figure out how I open camera to retreive the shaft? Where is the latch/catch mechanism located? Assuming I am able to open camera without taking it in for repair (too much $), are the rewind shaft & crank parts available for sale? Where? How much? Don't want to retire my faithful friend yet--any help getting her back on her feet would be much appreciated.
From Irwin (Sun Oct 29 02:50:08 2000 ):
Mark, me I never heard of a macro converter either. Boy I wish we could scan the "Canon's Closeup System: Closer Encounters with your World" pamphlet, Kai Pin.. (hint, hint) Could be Mark, you read about extension tubes,another gizmo which push the lens out farther to focus closer. They have no optical parts so they are called tubes. Teleconverters actually convert somethin, meaning they change the focal length of the lens,letting you get a larger image as Terry says.That means a 100 mm lens will act more like a closeup lens with a teleconverter 2XB behind it, if you see. But its not making it a macro lens. Confusing huh? The extension tubes also have a way to mount the lens backwards, but thats another story. Maintainers, can we get the Canon Closeup guide linked in, it would sure help goodfellas like old Mark :-) Be well, eat prunes daily, Irwin S.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Oct 28 19:57:57 2000 ):
MarK - I have looked at my references and can't find the 2X Macro Convertor as a Canon piece. - One thing to add about the 2x Teleconvertor, the closest focus distance remains the same, so you get about twice the maximum magnification as the the lens without the convertor. And with most macro work you use the lens stopped down a good bit to get a reasonable depth of field, so the aperture loss is not a problem. - Also all the NewFD lenses and some of the FD lenses require either Macro Hood or Manual Diaphram Adapter to be used reversed. One of the two of these are required to allow the aperture to work fully manually. Overall for trying out macro the close up lens are best, and the multi element Canon or Nikon ones are the best. If after that you want to get more serious about macro work look into the true macro lenses. Canon made the 50mm f3.5, 100mm f4, and 200mm f4 (hard to find) macro lenses. The 50mm and 100mm require an extension tube to get to a full 1:1. The tube required is 1/2 the focal length, and was normally supplied with the lens. Without the tube they focus to 1:2. For higher magnification you need to look into a Bellows.
From george (Sat Oct 28 13:20:14 2000 ):
Irwin & Terry C, Thanks for the suggestions and your recommendations and your vote on the 35-105 F3.5 - appreciate it. george
From Winston (Fri Oct 27 20:14:18 2000 ):
Andy: I will ask my friend if he has a shutter curtain for your camera, he is away for a few days. This may be a good time to move on to something newer and still be able to use you old FL lenses or even to Auto focus. All the best. Winston
From Carlos Oliveira (Wed Nov 8 23:21:47 2000 ):
I own an AE-1 and am thinking of getting a Canon Rebel model. Could of you give me some coments, please?
From scott (Tue Nov 7 06:34:57 2000 ):
I lost some of the screws which hold the AE-1 body together. Does any one know the dimensions or a dealer who sells them? THanks Scott
From Mickey T (Sun Nov 5 23:28:53 2000 ):
Thanks for help recently on the photos of flowers issue. another one. what about the canon fd 100mm f4 macro lens? will this allow me closeups of the flowers? Someone wants to sell me extension tubes for canon fd. do I need them for this work? please respond. thanks. I love this website.
From Winston (Sat Nov 4 20:00:46 2000 ):
Keith: NPC Photo Make a polaroid back for the Canon A-1/AE-1 Price $825.00. You maybe better off getting a good flash meter or use a polaroid camera to test your flash exposure.I have not seen any used NPC for sale All the best,Winston
From Keith Strickland (Fri Nov 3 09:45:45 2000 ):
Hi I want to know if you can get a polaroid back for the AE1 for studio work with flash. Thank you Keith
From Winston (Thu Nov 2 20:29:56 2000 ):
Mickey: If you look at the old messages you will see that the canon 35-105mm f 3.5 is rated as Excellent lens But it is not the same as a true macro lens. A lot of Zooms has the word macro but they are not a macro lens. They are called macro because they have a setting for close focusing. If your mail interest are close up of leaves flowers, I would get a true macro lens, But you can still produce excellent close ups images with out a macro lens. You just have to be creative, and I think that is one of the most important thing in photography. You can have the best equipment money can buy but with out an eye for the image the equipment will not help. I get the impression that you have an eye for the image you want and only need the right tools to do the job. I like that, good luck. All the best, Winston
From Winston (Thu Nov 2 19:40:17 2000 ):
Graham:The user manual will not help with the problem you described. The camera needs a service, Sorry for the bad news. Check out your local camera repair shop or e-mail for me. All the best, Winston
From Mickey T (Thu Nov 2 09:43:59 2000 ):
another question related to taking pictures of plants, flowers, and leaves. how about the canon 35-105 f3.5 macro? have a chance to buy a used one and want to know if this would do the job on my canon ae 1 program camera. thanks.
From Graham Allen (Thu Nov 2 07:15:58 2000 ):
I recently started using my A1 again, but after taking a photo, the shutter failed to release totally, and the reflector (lower) part of the screen retracted to lie flush with the top part. I can get it to come down to its original position, but it won't stay there! I've lost the manual, so I have no idea how to get it to stay down. Any ideas? Thanks
From Syd Croft (Thu Nov 2 07:09:22 2000 ):
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote to the message board asking for solutions to a problem I had in finding a lens hood for my 35-70mm FD lens. Both Terry and Winston produced some good ideas, but in following these up, I found that Jessops in the UK produce a spacer ring specifically for the 35-70 mm zoom, to enable screw-in lens hoods to be used. I hope this information is of some use to someone out there
From Fabrizio Vignali (Wed Nov 15 16:11:38 2000 ):
hi , peolpe , I couldn´t be newer on this,I´m kind of an artist , I´ve always painted but I am looking forward to take some nice artistic pictures , and I've just bougth a Canon AE-1 camera like 5 hours ago ! it´s in great shape but the only problem I see up to know is that the battery door it´s a little broken in one corner , could someone help me and tell me where can I get that part ?? ( I live in costa rica but my sister liver in State College , Pa , maybe she can get it for me and mail it ! thanks to all of you in advance !! Fabrizio
From Robert King (Wed Nov 15 13:21:56 2000 ):
For a long time I used an Canon A-1 with the standard Canon 50mm 1:1.8 lens to shoot Kodachrome 64 slide film, and the slides were exposed correctly. More recently I've been useing the faster 50mm 1:1.2 lens but the slides came back horribly overexposed. I tried useing the exposure compensation knob to under expose by 1/3 of a stop with hit and miss results and now I'm experimenting with shooting the ISO 64 film on ISO 100 and am awaiting results. Can anybody offer some advice as to how I should set up the camera to get correct exposures with the Canon 50mm 1:1.2 lens? I like it better than the 1:1.8 lens, so I'd prefer not to revert to useing the 1:1.8 lens.
From Nadar (Tue Nov 14 11:34:02 2000 ):
Steve,many possibility.As for moi,the hot air balloon is tres useful for elevant la photographie a la hauteur de l'art. Bonne chance, Gaspard
From Steve Coakley (Mon Nov 13 18:09:58 2000 ):
Using a very tall tripod I want to take SLR photographs from the ground and was hoping for suggestions on how I might see what the SLR camera is seeing when it is more the 30 feet up.
From DaveMM (Sat Nov 11 12:11:03 2000 ):
To Gina: What Colin and Terry said is right, we are all happy CANON users and I don;t see any reason why should not invest into a used FD mount camera (but as Colin putting it correctly, an AE-1 Program could be a better choice than your AE-1 had in your mind). Obviously, from the perspective of a Canon and Nikon user's point of view can be very different, there is a "conservative" and hard-core Republican soldier who has put in this view over your question of whether a Nikon or Canon at: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/feseriesmsg/feseries.msql http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/fmseriesmsg/fmseries.msql I would think the Canon AE-1 Program could be your BEST bet, further, Canon lenses are so much cheaper in comparison in the used market, as long as you are NOT a full time working professional who shots tens of rolls daily, older FD system looks an even more sensible choice for casual photography. Neither the Nikon FE and FE-2 which have been discontinued more than 15 years get any reasonably good technical support from Nikon anymore, so that argument does not post any difference between the FD and the older Nikon bodies.
From Colin (Fri Nov 10 10:13:27 2000 ):
Gina, you have stumbled onto the great Canon versus Nikon debate. Ford versus Chevrolet. Scotch versus Bourbon. Rottweilers versus Dobermans. These are the two big sellers and either one will be the basis of a great manual focus system that will do you proud. And presumably will be within your budget. Both companies make a great range of wonderful lenses. And both can still find service in the US. One company in California for instance says "Service for Canon and Nikon only." That must tell something. But now, why do you have to settle for the AE-1 model when the AE-1P is nicer and the A-1 is nicer still and the T90 is very very nice. Think this one over. Lots of fish in the sea. Read the features of all these Canon models on these pages and the T90 page. Maybe I can steer you to an upgrade in the line, like a good used car salesman. Just joshing. Cheers, Colin. T90 suits me to a T. A-1 model is "A-1" too!
From Terry Carraway (Thu Nov 9 17:18:41 2000 ):
Gina - What are you planning on doing? What are your goals? What is your budget? Both are good cameras, but look at the whole camera system and see if you can get the pieces to do what you want. Of course on this board we are very biased to Canon products. :)
From Terry Carraway (Thu Nov 9 17:17:23 2000 ):
Scott - Micro Tools aka Fargo Enterprises (http://www.fargo-ent.com) has small screws. I have no idea what size you need, but they have them.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Nov 9 17:16:17 2000 ):
Mickey T - For flowers, not little flowers, the 35-105 f3.5 will do the job. It is not a true macro lens, but it does allow closer focusing and just about full frame with many flowers. Remember the Canon 50mm and 100mm macro lenses allow 1:2 with out the extension tube, 1:1 with it. This means that without the extension tube, you can get get a full frame shot of a flower that is not more than 48mm across. With the extension tube, you can get a full frame with a 24mm object. You have to figure out how big the objects are you are shooting, and whether you need full frame shots of them. For insects, the true macro lens would be better. Also you can use an extension tube with any lens for closer focusing. The true macro lenses are also corrected for a flat field, but this is more important when you are copying flat objects like pictures, books and slides.
From Gina (Thu Nov 9 03:04:31 2000 ):
I am in the process of trying to decide between a Canon AE-1 and a Nikon FE,FE2. I am just beginning and would appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks
From Dave Bannister (Sun Nov 19 23:17:41 2000 ):
Can anyone help ? I have a Canon AV-1 which deserately needs another carrying case. If anyone has one they want to sell, or could suggest where I might be able to buy one, I would be very gratefull. If anyone can help, please send details to:david-bannister@ntlworld.com Many Thanks, Dave Bannister.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Nov 18 05:31:59 2000 ):
konnie - One quick check is to make sure that the metering is actually turning off when the shutter button is not being pressed. The problem is that the electronics for these cameras are not easy to find. It will probably cost you more to have it repaired than to pick up another one. WRT converting to digital, there is noone that I know of converting older cameras to digital and nonone converting used cameras to digital. Kodak has some models based on Canon EOS bodies, but they only buy the parts they need from Canon, most of the camera would not be used for a digital camera.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Nov 18 05:29:23 2000 ):
MarK - The later 100-300 is very nice and the 100-300 L series is wonderful. The loss of a stop versus the 80-200 lenses is something to consider. It makes the viewfinder darker and the lens harder to focus. I like my 100-300 L series though.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Nov 18 05:28:05 2000 ):
Robert King - Are you sure that the diaphragm is stoping down when shooting a picture, and that it is not sluggish? To check, without film, set the shutter speed to some slow number (1/4 or longer) and then manually set the aperture to f16 or f22. Looking from the front of the camera push the shutter button. The diaphragm leaves should SNAP closed and then after the time of the shutter speed SNAP open. Compare your old f1.8 to the new f1.2. I suspect that the 1.2 is slow. Also check to make sure that the camera is reading the maximum f stop correctly. With the lens set to A, set the camera to Av mode and see how far open the camera will allow the aperture to be set. And you are sure that you have an FD lens, not an FL lens?
From Ryan Rogers (Fri Nov 17 17:52:06 2000 ):
konnie--welcome to life with a 70s AE-1. I don't know of a fix...I assume it's a design flaw. I also assume it's why there were plastic battery holders (to fit on the camera strap) sold. Remember, this was one of the FIRST electronic cameras. We're lucky we don't have to carry around lantern batteries with us. I've become used to it, though I don't use my AE-1 as much, as a result of the battery thing. Too bad, because the AE-1 is a wonderful camera. Sure, it isn't a professional's professional camera, but it's great for amateurs. It's workable, forgiving, adjustable, and friendly. But...there comes a time (quickly) when the user begins to hate that little black spring-loaded door on the front. I'm there. I'll not sell my AE-1, 'cause I like what I can do with it, but I think I'll also go ahead and buy myself something new (probably a new Minolta), so I can worry less and just go take pictures.
From Colin (Fri Nov 17 02:47:34 2000 ):
Gina, glad we helped.Most kind of you to acknowledge advice earnestly followed.Makes it all worthwhile to offer it luv. Now,re my own education, pursuing another subject, if I could just *visualize* a thirty foot tripod :-)(?).I can imagine a call to mail order vendor as follows: " I need a tripod bag,please." How large sir? " Let's see, folded height is about,um, 15 feet."... Click. I love it. Hitachi Industries makes some large cranes of course. Cheers, Colin.
From Kai Pin (Thu Nov 16 20:57:28 2000 ):
TO MARK: There were three types of New FD 100-300mm f/5.6 zoom lens. The first had a so-so optical quality but the other two were vastly improved versions, of which one of them was an L-series. You can get more info of all three by clicking the Canon FD Lenses at the bottom of this page, then click for the 100-300mm link section.
From Gina (Thu Nov 16 20:53:15 2000 ):
To everyone that gave me advice, thanks... just wanted you to know that I went with the AE-1 Program. And I am very pleased with it, thanks again! Happy Holidays!
From konnie (Wed Nov 15 22:42:37 2000 ):
Two questions: FIRST-I have an older AE-1 from the 70's that has the current problem of draining the battery within a day. Anyone run into this and what was the fix/cost? SECOND-Since the electronics will probably require replacement, can Digital be added at the same time of repair? Is it worth it? Where is the best place to contact? Happy holidays all.
From MarK (Wed Nov 15 21:02:13 2000 ):
Hi I'm interested in buying the Canon 100-300 f5.6 Zoom What can you tell me about this lens ?
From Robert King (Sun Nov 26 03:18:24 2000 ):
About the operating temperature range for the Canon A series: I regularly take pictures of streetcars all day, even in winter, and I've never had any problems useing either the AE-1 Program or A-1 for seven hours or more in -25 to -30 degrees C. The battery issue is mentioned in the Canon manuals, but I've never had it happen to me although I do keep a spare in the pocket on the inside of my jacket where it will stay warm just in case...
From Terry Carraway (Sun Nov 26 02:41:30 2000 ):
Ivan Kolovos - There is no specifications that I can find about operating temperature ranges. They do state that in extremely cold weather (below 0 C or 32 F) the battery may be effected. They recommend that you carry a spare and keep in warm in a pocket when not in use. If you do this, the battery that you took out will work fine once it is warmed up, so stick it in an inside pocket to replace the other one when it gets too cold.
From Ivan Kolovos (Sat Nov 25 17:06:22 2000 ):
Hi, I am Ivan Kolovos young Photographer,can you tell my who how many is Operable Temperature Range of Canon A-1??? www.kolovos.hit.bg
From Terry Carraway (Fri Nov 24 21:42:27 2000 ):
Ashley and patricio - Craig Cameras (www.craigcamera.com) has manuals for many older cameras for sale. Also Ashley check the links at the bottom of this page, the manuals are online here for the AE-1P.
From Ashley (Fri Nov 24 13:24:13 2000 ):
My dad gave me his old AE-1Program because I wanted some really expensive camera that i saw on TV. He no longer has the manuel on how it works, nor does he have the knowledge to tell me how it works and what it does. It needs some parts, and I need to know how to work it. If anyone has any ideas on what i should do, PLEASE HELP ME!
From patricio (Fri Nov 24 10:40:19 2000 ):
aloha from the big island, need a manual for canon (ex auto) seems to be rare! mahalo
From Terry (Tue Nov 21 21:47:06 2000 ):
Robert King - Glad it is working out for you. S.S.C. is the Super Spectra Coating which is a multi coating. The S.C. is the Spectra Coating which is a single coating. This applies to the old style mount lenses. All new FD lenses (FDn) are equivalent to S.S.C. except the 50mm f1.8.
From Robert King (Tue Nov 21 11:06:45 2000 ):
Bill: The S.S.C., or S.C. on a Canon lens indicates that it has been given a special coating which Canon named Super Spectra Coating, hence S.S.C.. Its purpose is to improve the lens's colour balance and contrast. Terry: Thanks for the information; it turned out to be the blades. The lens has since been returned to the store from which it was bought and is being repaired under warranty, so I've reverted to the 50mm 1:1.8 for the duration of the repairs. -Robert King
From Bill (Tue Nov 21 10:57:09 2000 ):
I'm about to buy an AT-1 from Helix in Chicago for $140 that comes with a 50mm lens and is reported to be in excellent condition. I'm also looking at a zoom lens and have a couple of choices at the moment. I'm a bit confused. There's a Vivitar 90-230 for $129, and then there's a 200mm Canon f4.0 ssc FD brach for $90. I had a 200mm before and liked it. I also know the value of the 90-230mm. I don't know what the "ssc" means on the Canon 200 mm. Any help out there? I'm sick and tired of the automatic stuff and am going back to a camera that I took my best pictures with over the years, the AT-1.
From paul (Mon Nov 20 12:29:46 2000 ):
anyone else having problems with the door to the battery holder breaking off on their al-1? i have had to repair mine 3 times now, i guess not too bad for owning the camera for 18 years. this is still my favorite camera. if anyone is selling one i'm interested. love this site and board. peace paul

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