Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 551-600 |

From Harold (Sun Jul 30 02:03:11 2000 ):
I have a Canon AE-1 Program. During vacation it started taking pictures as I was winding to the next film index. Immeditely upon indexing, shutter would click. I took the lens off and some black rubber was inside, I assume from the light seal. I eventually got it to work correctly but the plastic focus screen was ruined as I attempted to remove the rubber from it. What do I do now? The camera takes extremely good photos and I would like to repair it if possible. What are your recommendations.
From Andrew (Sat Jul 29 15:17:05 2000 ):
I am considering purchasing a Tamron 60-300mm zoom lens for my AE-1 and I would like to know if there is any difference or quirks in the operation of the camera when using a non Canon Lens. Will the AE mode work ok? Also I assume I will have to buy an adapter to mount this to my camera. Are these adapters readily available? Thanks PS: This is a great site for Canon owners!! Nice job
From Lori (Sat Jul 29 07:43:04 2000 ):
I have also been a collector of A series cameras. My AE1Program has goop from the foam on the focusing screen. I plan to replace the foam but would like to know how to clean the screen myself. Thanks
From Winston (Fri Jul 28 22:52:50 2000 ):
Eric:Bill can replace the mirror foam and all the light seals with new ones. Clean the smudges on mirror for $35.00 plus return shipping.the squeak service is $30.00 or with the above for $55.00
From Winston (Fri Jul 28 22:41:11 2000 ):
Rose:They are no new parts available from Canon for the A-1. Bill uses used parts from parts cameras that he has, at this time he has no LCD boards that s in working order. He is always getting cameras in for parts, so I will keep your info and when one becomes available I will let you know, If your are still interested. Bill would like to know if the Aperture display flashes on and off or is it normal, if it flashing what Aperture is it flashing?
From Eric (Fri Jul 28 03:48:44 2000 ):
Being a collector of Canon cameras (first AE-1 back in 1976) I recently obtained an AT-1 body. Unfortunatly, the strip of spongy material that cushions the mirror when the shutter is depressed had turned to a tar-like goo. As this hasn't happened on my other A-series cameras, I was wondering if there was a better fix than the small piece of weatherstripping I stuck there in its place. It doesn't adhere as well as I'd like. Also, there are a couple of light smudges of the goo on the focusing screen. Is there any good substance I could use to clean that as well? Sorry if this has been asked before. I just found this forum today.
From Rose (Fri Jul 28 00:25:25 2000 ):
Winston: Thanks for help with letting me know that the problem on my A-1 (#15) might be the LCD display. Can you give me any idea of what your freind the repairman would charge for this repair, if he feels comfortable doing it? I am questioning the fact that he is not authorized, but he seems to be very knowlkedgeable from your messages on this board. I might try to check with my last repairman to see if he did check the LCD, but I am still intersted.
From Ant (Thu Jul 27 23:48:44 2000 ):
TomR: Thanks for the clarification. Yep, I brought an A1 with a 50mm F1.4 SSC lens the day before. They are in great shape, but I still need to try them out. Thanks again!
From John Di Nicola (Thu Jul 27 23:04:17 2000 ):
I have a Canon AV-1 I would like to mount a Tamron SP 90mm F/2.5 lens, is there a mounting kit available? and where do I get it. Thanks
From TomR (Thu Jul 27 23:03:01 2000 ):
Ant, I think you'll find an authoritative answer further back in this or the T 90 message board. My recollection is that when Canon went to the bayonet mount they dropped the SSC label although the lenses were multi coated to minimize dispersion. In the older breach mount lenses the SC was spectra coated and SSC was super spectra coated (i.e. multicoated). From what I hear & read, all are fine lenses. Did you wind up getting the A-1P or an A-1?
From Terry Carraway (Wed Aug 2 07:21:09 2000 ):
Julie - If you try to clean off the gunk, you are likely to ruin the focusing screen. They are VERY delicate. The nice thing about the AE-1P is that the screen is replaceable by the user. Not that replacements are easy to find, but they ARE available. Once you find one, you can try to clean the old one, but most times you will ruin it.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Aug 2 07:18:24 2000 ):
Eric - Micro Tools (aka Fargo Enterprises) at http://www.fargo-ent.com/ sells the proper foam. A kit with several different thicknesses runs about $5. It is not hard to do. The hard part is getting all the old junky foam off without hurting anything. Go slowly.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Aug 2 07:16:00 2000 ):
Tom - A little late, but I have been out of town. The 300TL will work on an A-1, but the operation is not smooth. It would be better to keep your 199A (which is what I did) or get a 299T.
From winston (Tue Aug 1 10:11:03 2000 ):
Jimmy: If double exposure capabilities are important to you, that feature is not built into the AE-1, The A-1 has that feature. You can still do double exposure with the AE-1, its time consuming but you can do it.Its good to see some one who wants to learn photography, good luck.If you end up with that AE-1 and want to do a double exposure, send me an e-mail.
From Winston (Tue Aug 1 09:51:41 2000 ):
Geoff: Any Camera repair shop that service Canons should have a battery door for your A-1 $15-30.00 installed.
From Jimmy (Tue Aug 1 04:45:42 2000 ):
Hi, I currently own a Canon T50, but would like to try to learn how to take pictures manually. I am about to purchase a used AE-1 with double exposure capabilities, and metered manual non TTL flash, depth of field preview. Is there anything else I should be concerned about.Buying the camera out of Canada. If you can think of anything else I would appriciate a brief email. Many Thanks.
From Geoff norman (Tue Aug 1 02:41:30 2000 ):
I expect this has been asked before, but here goes. I have a Canon A-1, which in my view is simply the ultimate classic SLR. The small plastic cover over the battery compartment has broken off. a) Does anyone know of a supplier for these parts in Canada or the US. I understand that it is standard on all A-series SLR's. b) Will repair places replace the door? How much? Thanks
From Julie (Mon Jul 31 03:41:35 2000 ):
I have 2 canon AE 1 Program camera. One has the goo on the focusing screen Can I buy a new screen or clean this one? What is an expected cost for the screen? and/or filter? Am willing to sell this one.
From Ted (Sun Jul 30 17:53:00 2000 ):
I need a spring for the rewind crank on an AE=1P.Does anyone know where I can get one?Is this a common problem?I have looked at several other AE-1P's and at least 1/2 seem to have the floppy rewind crank syndrome.Thank's for any help....Ted.
From Winston (Sun Jul 30 12:22:21 2000 ):
Lori & Harold: Once that goop get rubbed into the mirror or focusing screen thats it, they have to be replaced, you have to find a repair shop with some used parts to replace them. Send me an e-mail if you can t find a repair shop with the parts. Harold have them check out the prerelease problem too, sounds like it s the release magnet going bad. When the mirror foam goes it time to replace all the light too. New lights seals and mirror foam cost from $30.00 to what ever you are willing to pay. Some repair shop will even offer to put the camera in the garbage for you at no extra cost to you, you have to shop around
From Carlos H. Olveira (Tue Aug 8 00:18:26 2000 ):
I´m facing dificulties in making use of a flash on the AE-1. Pictures are over-exposured with a 1.4 50mm lens even when shutter is set at 1/60. Should I really follow the flash indications? Also, how should I set the aperture when shooting at "B" ? Thanks, Carlos.
From Irwin (Mon Aug 7 13:52:22 2000 ):
Andrew, before you give up go to a store that has some high quality cable releases. It sounds tome like your release aint releasing, meaning the plunger goes too far. I could be wrong. (That happens once like when my wife said sell my shares in Napster). But you know the really nifty way to release these A cameras is electronically with a winder which has a slot for an electronic release. It is just a simple switch with a mini-plug. You can even make your own or buy one, like the Canon or an aftermarket brand like Hama I think. The cable release used to thwack me in the eye anyway before I went electrical. And the winder is a lulu thing to have. But first try with a high quality cable. Best of luck. Good camera. Irwin the Kibbitzer Schmedrick
From jimmy hughes (Sun Aug 6 22:51:33 2000 ):
I need the two small screws on each side of the view finder for an A-1. Any suggestions?
From Winston (Sun Aug 6 20:47:11 2000 ):
Shell: After rewinding the film, that pin should pop back out when you wind on, advance cock the shutter. Could be a damage leaver or just need cleaning.
From Winston (Sun Aug 6 20:36:50 2000 ):
Andrew: If you look at last Month messages (Ed.) had the same kind of problem like you are having. Bill the camera Tech fixed it for him; it was a frozen cable release pin. If you try to force it you may end up having the meter activated at all times, and lots of dead batteries
From Winston (Sun Aug 6 20:18:08 2000 ):
Rose: Thanks for the info. Bill was thinking if it was at the under exposure end it could be the Aperture information circuit, but thats not it.I will let you know when he gets a parts camera in with the working part for your A-1
From Andrew (Sun Aug 6 08:34:00 2000 ):
I have a AE-1 program and I purchased a simple cable shutter release so that I can take some long exposures with a tripod. Unfortunately the shutter does not fire when I use the cable release, but instead jams the shutter button so that the camera's metering stays on. After some gentle wiggling I was able to release the shutter button, but when I tried the cable release again, the shutter button jammed again. I played with the amount it is threaded into the button and the length of the wire that is exposed but I can't get it to work. Do I need a special release for this camera? I just had the a CLA done on the camera in June, and I have never noticed any problem with the shutter button sticking before. Thank you Andrew
From Rose (Sat Aug 5 01:36:53 2000 ):
WINSTON: Thanks again for the info on the LED on my A1. No, the aperture does not flash -- only if it is at overexposure. It seems to perform normally. I am still interested, but recently, a repair shop in another state is 'thinking' that it could be the AE switch or the main circuit. I am not familiar with these things, but may be it is worth mentioning ? I was trying to check if my last repairman checked the LED, but I could not get in touch with him yet. Thanks.
From Shell (Fri Aug 4 00:41:44 2000 ):
Hi all. My problem is with the rewind button on the bottom of my AE-1. After I took the film out, the button is stuck in the pushed in position and I can't load any film. Is this a common problem? My camera is about 20 years old and works well otherwise. Thanks!
From Terry Carraway (Wed Aug 2 07:25:22 2000 ):
Jimmy - The AE-1 is not a great camera to run in manual mode. Unfortunately the A-1 while better, is still not great. If you want to spend time with a fully manual camera, without having to resort to an external meter, try an F-1, FTb series, or a T90. They will use your current lenses, and offer fully manual with viewfinder meter readings. The A-1 requires that you meter the scene with, and then look at the lens to set the proper aperture. All the ones mention allow you to adjust the settings until the meter says things are right. The AE-1 is only designed to be used in Tv (shutter speed priority mode). If you wnat ot use an external meter, any of these cameras will work well.
From Winston (Tue Aug 8 20:48:27 2000 ):
Peter: I have a few AE-1 that have been serviced and recalibrated shutter, meter, new mirror foam,new light seals, and working as they should with OUT the SQUEAK. Will take your old AE-1 as trade too.Please e-mail me if you are interested.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Aug 8 20:46:07 2000 ):
Eric - First thing I would try is another battery. New doesn't necessarily mean good. If that doesn't work, I would look into a CLA. Some of the goo probably got into somewhere it shouldn't and is gumming things up.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Aug 8 20:44:50 2000 ):
Peter - You are probably better off just picking up a second camera. By the time you pay to have someone do a CLA and replace the circuit board, you will spend more than buying another AE-1 or even an AE-1P. Next time, pick up an Ewa Marine bag for the camera to protect it. These are like heavy duty zp lock bags with a glove built in to work the camera and an optically clear part to shoot through. They are good underwater to a significant depth.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Aug 8 20:42:15 2000 ):
Andrew - I agree with Irwin, the A2 is the better choice. I had one and got rid of it for my MotorDrive MA, which like Irwin says, is very heavy (12 AA batteries). The remote release is the LC-1. It has a hand held transmitter and a receiver that goes on the hot shoe and plugs into the winder or motor drive. 2 or 3 channels (I think 2) so you can actually have two cameras and trigger them distinctly.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Aug 8 20:39:35 2000 ):
Carlos - Which flash? If it is one of the Canon dedicated flashes, it should set the aperature automatically based on the setting on the flash. But for each setting there is a range of usable distances, if you are too close, the shots will be overexposed. If you are using a manual flash, you have to calculate the aperture based on the Guide Number for the flash. You divide the GN by the distance, and that equals the aperture ( GN/Distance = Aperture). You set the aperture manually in this case. For using the B setting, you set the aperture manually on the lens.
From Winston (Tue Aug 8 20:36:11 2000 ):
Eric.Yes Bill can fix your AT-1 please e-mail me
From Irwin (Tue Aug 8 11:20:49 2000 ):
Andrew, the A2 winder hands down. It will be a little harder to find, but is the one to buy for the long haul. Trust Irwin on this one. And the weight it adds is very little compared to the monstrous motor MA. My A model has been almost welded to the A2 for 10 years. I use Canon remote switch 60 MF which has a lock postition and a lovely LED. But it is just an electrical switch. I made a ten foot extension for it out of radio shack parts. Say, try that with any cable release. Maybe a bulb release, but then you look like you need a straw hat and red suspenders:-). And also there is even an infrared release that can be activated by the mini plug in the winder. Glad to offer ideas. Irwin K. Schmedrick.
From Peter Bittner (Tue Aug 8 08:10:36 2000 ):
I have loved my AE-1 since 1978, and it has taken the best photos I have ever taken, but it has now had it's day. I used it a lot for water skiing photography and moisture has got into the printed circuit board. I am told it is unrepairable but I do not want to give up. Can anyone hep?? Either with parts or a body which is in good repair, or can you point me to a dealer or secondhand site which I could post a request to buy on.
From Andrew Limiti (Tue Aug 8 08:03:24 2000 ):
Irwin, That sounds like a good suggestion, since I was already planning on purchasing a winder for the camera anyway. Since you mentioned it, how's the A2 winder for this camera? Thanks for the info. Andrew
From eric (Tue Aug 8 04:10:21 2000 ):
I seem to have a self-destructing AT-1. After attempting to clean the goo and replacing it with a similarmaterial to stop the mirror, I fired up this old AT-1 and found out that the camera won't fire unless I remove the camera bottom and click the mechanism manually. Also, the needle doesn't seem to travel well as it did a couple of weeks ago. It does have a new battery...Winston...Is this something your associate can address, or should I just put this camera out to pasture for spare parts?
From Andrew Limiti (Sat Aug 12 18:27:03 2000 ):
Irwin, Thanks for the advice on the A2 winder and the shutter release problem. I picked up a A2 winder for $69 and made the remote switch for $6 in parts from Radio Shack. It works great. I didn't even bother trying another mechanical release. Andrew
From Winston (Fri Aug 11 06:00:24 2000 ):
Stephanie: Are you in Texas? If you are I think I know who you are. Anyway I think before you go buying up all these lenses, you should know what type of photography you want to do first and let that determine which lenses you need to get. What lenses do you have for this AE-1P? All the best.
From Winston (Thu Aug 10 19:59:21 2000 ):
Rose: Thanks for the update, and sorry to hear of your new problem. Fortunately the latest problem sounds like it could just be your on/off switch that is broken on the inside, if you have no light coming on. The rewind button will stay pushed in until the film is advanced, and you can t advance it until the shutter is fired, so that is not a problem. Bill is still waiting for a parts camera to get the part for your.
From jimmy hughes (Thu Aug 10 01:41:31 2000 ):
I am looking for an S diopter lens +1.5
From Andrew (Wed Aug 9 19:22:13 2000 ):
Stephanie, Since you are not to familiar with the different type of lenses for your camera I would highly suggest that you seek out a good camera shop that could answer some of your questions. I would start with the yellow pages and visit a few camera shops in your area, and look for a salesman who will spend some time answering your questions. I strongly suggest skipping Ebay until you know a more about what type of lenses are out there and their prices. Without that knowledge you will end up spending extra $$ on a lens that you could buy locally for close to the same price, but without the customer service. Andrew
From Jojo (Wed Aug 9 12:44:50 2000 ):
***Stephanie***: IF you are not aware of this - there is a section in this MIR site featuring virtually ALL the various models of Canon FD lenses (OLD and NEW); where you can make use of it as a buying reference (unfortunately, it didn't provide any indicator for used prices but I understand it can be very difficult due to differing geographical locations and varying exchange rates): http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/index.htm
From Rose (Wed Aug 9 11:12:55 2000 ):
(Winston) I just wanted to let you know the latest with my A-1. I was taking a test roll of film (writing down ea. setting.mode/ap) and now, all of a sudden, the shutter release button is stuck. The battery tester does not function, and the film rewind button is stuck in the "pushed in" mode. Needless to say, this does not look good. I am 100% certain it is not the battery. (I tried 2 new ones) . I cannot help but wonder if this is all related to the former incorrect aperture readout problem. It seems like a complete electronic problem. I am taking it back to the shop that repaired it before to see what they say. Please do keep me posted if you can, on your friends locating new parts camera, but I just wanted to give you a "head up" that this A-1 might not be worth repairing to me anymore. This is so upsetting.
From Tom S (Wed Aug 9 02:34:13 2000 ):
You may want to restrict your selection to All Canon FD series lenses are fully compatible with your camera. I also suggest that you restrict your selection to Canon brand only. They can ususally be obtained for a good price on the used market. MOst other brands were sold as low cost alternatives to the good stuff any will ususally create some quality issues. Be aware that there are "old style" and "new style" Canon FD lenses. Either will be fully compatible with your camera. The old style is commonly referred to as a breech mount lens and can be easily identified by the silver locking ring at the base of the lens. The new style does not have the locking ring and is solid black with a raised red alignment dot at the base. I prefer the old style because even though it is heavier, it has a metal body and will take bumps and knocks better than the lighter weight, plastic new style. There is also some debate as to which performs better, but that is largely matter of opinion and I doubt if very many people can really tell a difference. How wide do you want? There are a number of factors involved in deciding what to get. A moderate, 35mm lens give you a significantly larger area than the normal 50mm, but much less than a 24mm. The wider you get, the more pronounced perspective will be, with really wide lenses giving "fish eye" effects. 24mm is controllable, but you need to always be aware of your viewing angle with the subject and look for unusual perspective shifts. When using a flash on the camera, any decent one will have wide enough distribution to cover a 35mm lens, but few will cover a 24mm. 35mm lenses are going to be less expensive as a general rule, but that should not be a constraint if it isn't wide enough to do the job and since a decent 24mm can ususally be picked up for less than $150. Also, try to buy lenses with the lowest possible f stop settings. You will spend more, but the added flexibility and performance may be worth it. For instance a 50mm, f1.4 is better than a 50mm, f1.8 lens. It will give you more exposure range, better control of depth of field and will ususally perform better at tighter settings than their higher f stop brothers. Lastly, if you are willing to spend a little more, look for old style, bayonet mount lenses that have "SSC" (Super Specular Coating) on them. They have better optical coatings and will give you less problems with flare. The new style all have the coating and do not have the SSC marking. You may want to think about the new style zoom lenses. There are some trade offs, mainly with light loss and some loss of sharpness at wider apertures, but they certainly are convenient. The new style will typically out perform the older breech mounts and are much more compact and lighter. If this appeals to you, look at the 35-70mm zooms in the $120-150 range. I have purchased through Ebay with good results and best prices, but there is some risk involved with that. If you are willing to pay a higher, but reasonable, price and have some security with quality, check out KEH Cameras on the web. I have purchased through them and they have a large inventory. Good Luck, Tom S
From Stephanie (Wed Aug 9 00:10:32 2000 ):
I have an AE-1 Program and am wondering what lenses work with canons. I really am looking for a wide-angle lense to start off with then a telephoto. Could anyone tell me what are the most reasonable ones to look at? I new to all of this camara stuff. Thanks.
From eric (Tue Aug 8 21:13:08 2000 ):
A question on the A2 winder. I've had mine since purchasing it new with my A-1 in 1982. It's seen very little use in the last five years. All of a sudden, it recently quit. The battery connections are clean. The batteries are new. Any ideas what to check?

Messages : 001-050 | 051-100 | 101-150 | 151-200 | 201-250 | 251-300 | 301-350 | 351-400 | 401-450 | 451-500 | 501-550 | 551-600 | 601-650 | 651-700 | 701-750 | 751-800 | 801-850 | 851-900 | 901-950 | 951-1000 | 1001-1050 | 1051-1100 | 1101-1150 | 1151-1200 |

| Back | to Main Index Page of Canon A & T Series SLR Camera(s)
| Back | to A-Series Message Board OR explore the original Canon F-1(n), New Canon F-1, Canon T-90 site, A-Series that featured here and Other Canon T-Series Models

* The Eyes of Canon ...

Home - Photography in Malaysia

Copyright © 1999. leofoo ®. MIR Web Development Team. Credit: Richard Yeow, Simon of Canon Marketing, Message Maintainer: Terry Carraway, Irwin, Kaipin, Philip Chong, Dr StrangeLuv, Tom, Gerry, etc. Made with a PowerMac, broadcast with a Redhat Linux powered server.