Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 651-700 |

From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 11 21:30:25 2000 ):
Dan - You might try Fargo Enterprises, aka Micro Tools at http://www.fargo-ent.com/. I alse have a bookmark for another place http://cam-comp.com/ that is listed as camera repair tools and supplies.
From Dan (Sun Jun 11 13:26:35 2000 ):
Does anyone know where I can purchase the itty-bitty screws that hold my AE-1P together?
From Joe Arnold (Sun Jun 11 03:57:34 2000 ):
Terry - May as well bring this here where it belongs! To elaborate on my last post to the T-90 board : The fact that the spc is reading off the focusing screen by way of the prism doesn't mean the image has been 'split', or otherwise modified. Aside from any minuscle loss incurred in the process of being reflected off the mirror, and through the prism, the cell is reading all of the image's light. None of the light has been redirected in any way aside from the reflection process.
From Brad Anderson (Thu Jun 8 23:19:44 2000 ):
Thanks Terry. Just after I posted my last message, I stumbled across Craig Camera and found exactly what I needed. They have an incredible selection of camera literature.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 8 20:20:21 2000 ):
Gaines - It might be something serious, or it might be something simple. I have had trouble with my A-1 getting into a mode where the film advance has fully advanced, but the shutter had not fully cocked. With the A-1 the answer is to activate the multi exposure lever and then finish winding. With an AE-1, I might try hitting the rewind button and see if that helps.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 8 20:18:43 2000 ):
Brad - Try Craig Camera (www.craigcamera.com) for manuals.
From Winston (Thu Jun 8 11:17:40 2000 ):
Gaines check out the address below they repair canons A series Cameras, your need repairing (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=352268317)
From Gaines Beard (Thu Jun 8 04:20:15 2000 ):
I have a Cannon AE-1 approx. 1970...The film advance lever will not move to wind the film and the shutter button does not click to allow the film advance...Am I missing something here or does this sound like I need to have it repaired?????Thanks for any help...
From Brad Anderson (Thu Jun 8 01:45:34 2000 ):
I am searching for a copy of the Ni-Cd Charger MA manual so that I can properly charge the new battery I had installed. Does anyone know where I might find a copy? P.S. I have owned my A1 for 16 years and have loved every minute of it! Great camera!
From Malcolm (Wed Jun 7 18:48:54 2000 ):
how common are T2 - FD converters.?? also has anyone had a lot of experience with pulling 50mm Canon FD lenses apart? It is mostly back together but doesn't fuly work.
From Jim Singleton (Mon Jun 19 20:44:07 2000 ):
I have an AE-1P and a power winder A. The winder will not advance the film (it might work once every couple of days) and the end of roll light comes on after every shutter release. It won't even advance with an empty camera. How can I tell if it's a winder problem or Camera problem??
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 18 21:58:17 2000 ):
John - Nice source, but buy soon. He is in violation of Federal law. In the US is is illegal to offer mercury cells for sale.
From John Laatsch (Sun Jun 18 08:12:10 2000 ):
I am responding to Louis, May 27, 2000 message regarding replacement batteries for the FTb. Check the following web site: www.gis.net/~amjas/px625.html All the ifo you need is there. I just ordered two px625 for my FTb and received them this Wednesday.
From jim mapp (Thu Jun 15 07:24:29 2000 ):
re the focusing screen replacement--where can the focusing screens be ordered from and what are the costs. (is this the one the instruction book book refers to as replacable with the inclosed tweezers)
From Terry Carraway (Wed Jun 14 01:49:30 2000 ):
Rob - The Motor Drive MA and Power Winder A2 are two totally separate devices, that do basically the same thing. They automatically advance the film. The Motor Drive gives you a higher speed (4 or 5 frames per second depending on the battery pack), additional shutter release buttons, and a nice grip. The Motor Drive MA with alkaline battery pack MA lso adds a lot more weight to the camera. The unit by itself isn't that heav, but the 12 (yes 12) AA batteries do. I was amazed at how light and small my A-1 was after removing the motor drive to have the camera serviced.
From schmendrick (Tue Jun 13 13:54:57 2000 ):
Rob,you have a clear choice. The winders operate separately from the Motor Drive. Most folks like me are pretty happy with the Winder A2,which is lighter and less costly than the MA motor. But lash to the bottom of the A-1 both mechanically and electrically. The motor has a grip and a separate release for vertical shots. A nice package, either way you go. My A-1 would look almost naked without its winder A2 these days, Rob.
From Rob Allen (Tue Jun 13 07:50:45 2000 ):
I recently acquired an A1 and would like to know if the motor drive MA, and the power winder A2 need to be used together, seperatly or what. The manual shows it all, but doesnt distinguish.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Jun 12 20:23:05 2000 ):
Joe Arnold - I checked with a contact at Canon Technical Services. According to him the Canon AL-1 and AE-1P need circulatr polarizers in the A series. In the AL-1 the reflex mirror is a half mirror likeAF cameras. In the AE-1P there is a half mirror in the exposure metering system optics. In the T series, the T70, T80, and T90 need circular polarizers.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Jun 12 20:20:37 2000 ):
Joe - You can use either a Canon Winder A or Winder A2. There are also some aftermarket winders out there that will work.
From Joe (Mon Jun 12 10:40:29 2000 ):
I have a AE1P. What type of power winder should get for this camera?
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 25 06:56:40 2000 ):
Clint - Fargo Enterprises (aka Micro-Tools) at http://www.fargo-ent.com/ has self stick foam. You can cut your own mirror pads adn stick them in. The hard part is getting the old ones COMPLETELY out, and not getting sticky junk on the mirror or the focusing screen. Both as these are likely to be scratched if you have to clean them, and scratches can lead to metering problems. I have replaced the foam in an FTbn.
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 25 06:54:07 2000 ):
Jason - You can go to the bottom of this page and click on the link for the AT-1. It says near the bottom of that page, that the camera is essentially an AE-1, but with manual match needle metering, so most of the AE-1 manual will apply (also found on this site). In the US Craig Camera, (www.craigcamera.com) is a very good source for manuals for various older cameras, including Canon A series.
From Clint (Sun Jun 25 00:03:16 2000 ):
Does anyone know where I can buy replacement Mirror Cushion's for the A or F series Canon Camera's? Thanks for any help from Clint.
From Jason Chletsos (Fri Jun 23 22:10:53 2000 ):
My father just gave me his old Canon AT-1 and I was wondering if anyone knows where I could find an instructional manual for it online. Or even an instructional manual for a different model that is similiar to this one. I really appreciate the help... Thanks, Jason
From Terry Carraway (Fri Jun 23 20:46:31 2000 ):
Peter - One way to do it would be to actually measure the distance from the film plane to the subject and then set the focus. Or if you have enough flash power, use a small aperture and let the depth of field take care of it. WRT AF, it will be worse in low light. In fact many AF cameras have an auto focus assist light, which is like a small built in flashlight that gives the subject enough light and contrast to allow the AF to work.
From Ian Dickey (Fri Jun 23 09:14:14 2000 ):
Would anyone know where I might find a part for my A-1. The little frame that holds the AT Guard Slider broke on it and I am having a tough time finding this part. Thanks for any help you might give!
From peter (Fri Jun 23 05:03:18 2000 ):
Recently I took some pictures in total darkness (using flash photography) and had a hard time with focusing on an FD lense. This brought up 2 questions: 1. How to keep the image(s) sharply focused without rely on "gut" feeling? 2. Would the AF lenses rectifies this problem? Any input is greatly appreciated.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Jun 21 18:38:20 2000 ):
Herbert - The A-1 takes a PX28 sized battery. My local CVS carries them, as does Radio Shack and K-mart. There are several PX28 sized batteries. There is an alkaline one (cheapest), a lithium one (PX28L, great if you don't use your camera much), and a silver one (longest lasting). They all work. I normally use whatever in the camera, but carry a spare PX28L due to the long shelf life.
From Herbert Martin (Wed Jun 21 11:10:40 2000 ):
I have a Canon A-1 that I haven't used in many years. I went to Walgreen's for replacement batteries (6 volt) and could not find anything that would fit. Does anyone know of source for these old battery sizes. The 6 volt was the size for the Body and the date unit on the back.... thanks. Herb Martin hmartin@patsalmon.com
From Terry Carraway (Tue Jun 20 20:23:42 2000 ):
Jim - Find someone with a Canon AE-1, A-1 or AE-1P and try your winder on it. If it works, then it is your camera. If not, it is the winder. Have you cleaned the contacts? Both the battery contacts in the winder, and the contacts where the winder attaches to the body.
From Schmendrick (Wed Jun 28 06:29:22 2000 ):
To Philip. Why isn't the AE-1 and the AV-1 and the AL-1 usable with the motor drive MA. Answer: I don't know. Looks from the photos that the coupling points will line up, so it has to do with 1) the electronics,2) the speed of that drive, or 3) the fact that the AL-1 is only aperture priority automation. When you find out also ask why the A2 winder works differently on the AL-1 from when it is mounted on an A-1. You get single frame shots in a different way says the book. Bother the Canon Tech HQ until they come clean :-) Schmendrick says go for the A-1 as soon as you can find a clean one. Lovely piece of kit.
From Matthew E Andersen (Wed Jun 28 02:58:33 2000 ):
hello, can anyone tell me where i can locate a copy (hard copy or, preferably, online) of the Canon AE-1 anstruction manual? I am new to photography, I just received this camera from a relative, and I'm lost! Thanks!
From Bob (Mon Jun 26 21:56:26 2000 ):
I just bought a Canon 135 f 3.5 ( New FD mount) lense which looks absolutely great. However, the aperature blades won't move when I do a depth of preview on either a AE-1 or F-1. Currently the blades seem to be wide open. The lense seems to mount with alittle more resistance than my other FD lenses but it does finally "click" into place. I have not taken any pictures with it yet but I assume everything would be overexposed. The lever at the 6 o'clock position moves freely ( when you have the "red dot" positioned at 12 o'clock position. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Does it need to go to a shop? If so, what would be a reasonable price ?
From Filip (Mon Jun 26 20:47:15 2000 ):
Hi all ... I have a rather simple question : Canon HQ says it is not advisable to use Motor Drive MA with other models than A-1 and AE-1 Program, I have an AV-1 ... does anyone know why ? ... I'm planning to bye the Power Winder A2 but I hope you may answer my curiosity about the MA ... thx in advance Regards /Filip
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 25 20:36:25 2000 ):
Barbara - Oops, I answered your winder hole question in the previous answer. WRT polarizers, polarizers work by "aligning" the light waves in a single direction. The old analogy is like a very tiny venition blind. So it has to rotate to rotate the alignment direction. To use it, put it on your lens and look through the viewfinder, you rotate the polarizer to get the effect you want. Polarizers can be used to enhance the blue of the sky, but they only work well when pointed 90 degrees to the sun. They are also great in dealing with non-metallic reflections, like off of glass or water. You can rotate the polarizer and reduce or even elminate such reflections. Also polarizers are typically WAY overused by beginners. I only use them when trying to take pictures of things that are behind glass.
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 25 20:31:54 2000 ):
Lori - You may be able to do the work yourself, but only you can decide whether it is worth it or not. THe problem is getting the old foam off without causing problems. The focusing screen and mirror are VERY delicate and can be easily scratched. And not only are such scratches annoying, they can cause metering problems. The foam can be purchased from Micro-Tools (www.fargo-ent.com). It is called Light Baffle foam. Same stuff. After you remove the old foam and adhesive, you cut the proper sized piece and stick it on. The foam has a stickly back, you you just peel and stick. WRT the cover, just start asking around better camera stores. Someone might have on in a parts box. Most peopel lose them when they use a power winder or motor drive. There is a place on the winder or drive to stick the cover so you don't lose it, but then some people remove the winder and don't put the cover back, then the winder goes somewhere and the camera is without the cover.
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 25 20:27:02 2000 ):
Kelly - The black AE-1ps are not really rare, but for some people they are more desireable. If I were to get an AE-1p, I would look for a black one to go with all my other black Canon FD bodies. WRT the squeek, there is someone who advertises via eBay that does Canon A series sqeek repair for about $45. I would suggest instead that you have a full CLA done on the camera. I have my work done at Strauss in Washington, DC, not the cheapest, but they have done very good work for me. Another person to try may be http://hometown.aol.com/steven40/CameraClinic.html . He advertises Canon repair. One person on Photo.Net used him and was happy. Further reading in back messages on this board will come up with other places that can do the work for you. WRT the Vivitar Series 1 lens, if it the same vintage as the camera, it is a very nice lens. Late model ones are not quite as nice, but they are still not bad third party lenses.
From barbara (Sun Jun 25 10:39:52 2000 ):
1-Can anyone tell me how to use a "polarizer"? Why does it turn? 2-The "dime sized" screw on cover on the bottom of my ae1-p has disappeared leaving a dust collecting hole. Can that be replaced?
From Lori (Sun Jun 25 09:47:04 2000 ):
I have an AEProgram also and noticed that the foam around the focusing screen is strating to flake and causing specs when I look through the view finder. SHould I consider trying to replace the foam or take it somewhere to be done. I am truly an amateur!! I live in Michigan and do not know who to go to..ANy help would be appreciated.
From Kelly (Sun Jun 25 06:58:20 2000 ):
I have just purchased an AE-1 Program, Serial #2013808, with a couple of aftermarket lenses and a Winder A2 in great shape but with mirror squeak. I plan on sending it off for a CLA ASAP. I do have two questions for the "experts" that read this board: (1)This AE-1 P is black, does this mean anything on its rarity or when it was manufactured? (2)One of the lenses is a Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm 1:3.5. Is this a better than average quality for non-Canon lenses? Any help or information on both is appreciated!
From Winston (Sat Jul 1 01:12:40 2000 ):
My apologies to you all, if you think that this message should not be on this message board. I think that owners of any Canon A series cameras may be interested, A friend of mine is a camera mechanic with over 20 years experience working on cameras. He does repair for some of the local camera stores. Then they put their markup on top, He will do the repair for you at the same price he charges the store plus $6.00 return shipping. Why am I doing this you may ask! I buy and sell cameras and my friend Bill fix them all before I resell them, he charges me less than he does the stores, and this is my way of showing my appreciation. I have a ebay ID (winclowe) You can check out my feedback on there, I also auction the canon Squeak service on there for $29.99. I use a canon A-1 myself one of the very first ones in the USA back in 1978 I have only had the squeak service done once, and one main switch replaced on this camera. If you would like to have any work done on your camera and save on the repair cost please e-mail for more info. Thanks
From Jim5618 (Thu Jun 29 22:46:15 2000 ):
For what it's worth, I believe the "guy advertising shutter lubes on EBAY" is Mick Grey of West Coast Camera. He has done about 10 cameras for me including replacing foam and adjustments if needed. I have found him to be very reliable and honest. This is of course only my experience.
From jim5618 (Thu Jun 29 22:31:02 2000 ):
MA Motordrive... The AE-1 program and the A-1 have 4 electrical contacts on the bottom for use with a motor drive the AE-1 has only two. I assume the AV and AL are only two as well. I belive the drive will work on these cameras but only do single frame advance.
From Schmendrick (Thu Jun 29 12:59:28 2000 ):
Carlos, Canon booklet says that A series cameras are not compatible with the 430 and newer speedlites. Meaning no auto exposure and I doubt if the camera will be set to any speed through the shoe (why not try it). The book says "only manual flash exposure is possible." Good grief, that sounds like guide numbers, aperture setting and choosing a synch speed. How can them butchers do this to you? Maybe a Nice used 199A,188A model for your birthday or from Santa Claus. Schmendrick saves his old Vivitars along with Confederate dollars and Filipino pesos with President Marcos pictures on them :-)
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 29 08:23:24 2000 ):
Nassar - Start looking. Some camera shops have various things stuck away. The screen is designed to be changed by the owner, no need to send it in.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 29 08:22:18 2000 ):
Matthew - This site has the manual online. Craig Camera (www.craigcamera.com) can help with a hard copy.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 29 08:21:23 2000 ):
Bob - Do the blades move when you fire the camera? You can manually set the aperture to f16 and the shutter to 1/2 second or more, and watch the aperture. If they don't move, you will need to have it serviced.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 29 08:19:06 2000 ):
Filip - Does the AV-1 have four electical contacts? Other than that, I don't know why it is a problem, but I will see if I can find out.
From Carlos Baeza (Thu Jun 29 07:34:22 2000 ):
Could anybody tell me if I can attach a SPEEDLITE 430 EZ flash unit to my CANON AE-1 camera? I mean if the flash (once charged) will control the camera using the shuter-speed and shutter-apperture signals of the hot-shoe of the AE-1 with that flash? Thanks in advance
From Nasser Alamshahi (Wed Jun 28 13:34:40 2000 ):
Does anyone know where I might be able to purchase a new focusing screen for an AE-1 Program and if I can replace it myself or does it need to be sent to a Canon Service Center for replacement?

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