Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 201-250 |

From Terry Carraway (Sat Dec 30 21:51:55 2000 ):
Winston - I would appreciate the info.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Dec 30 21:51:24 2000 ):
Elmer - As far as I know, there is noone extending Data Back A's any longer. If you find someplace let us know. Most people just use the letter codes now. I prefer to not use a databack as I hate the numbers in the picture. If it printed the numbers in the margin or between frames I would use one all the time.
From Winston (Sat Dec 30 08:34:57 2000 ):
Jean-Luc/Bart/Terry: The lubricant that Bill use for the mirror squeak is a special kind that evaporates shortly after it is applied but still leaves the bushings lubricated with no oily or greasy suffice to attract and hold dust like oil and grease does. I will try to get the name of this lubricant for all the DIY of this board. Winston
From Elmer Greene (Sat Dec 30 04:44:48 2000 ):
I have a Canon A-1 with a data back A on which I have had two different disks for the year. My first disk ran through 1987, and the second one through 2000. Is there some place I can send it for a third disk that will carry me from 2001 to 2010? I can't remember where I sent it for the replacement of the original year disk.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Dec 29 21:25:18 2000 ):
Jean-Luc - The red light comes on when the winder senses the end of the roll. If the film is wound too tight in the cassette or something is binding, this can happen before the end of the roll. Also if the batteries are weak. It only runs 1 second, becuase that should be more than enough time to advance one frame. And if it hasn't advanced one frame in 1 second, something is wrong. The squeek is best done by a professional (see other posts right near this one).
From Terry Carraway (Fri Dec 29 21:22:44 2000 ):
Jim - Craig Camera (www.craigcamera.com) can sell an insturction manual for the MA-1 Motor Drive. Most of the extra buttons are extra shutter buttons. If you have the AA pack, the white button under your little finger is the instant high speed button. No matter what the drive is set to, when you push this button and the shutter release, it fires at 5 frames per second. There is a little slide that unlocks the battery pack from the drive itself. There is a little lever (marked R) with a button beside it. When you push the button the lever unlocks, and moving the lever pushes the rewind button on the bottom of the camera. There is a main switch (lift and rotate) that has Off, S (Single Frame mode), L (Low speed, about 2 fps), and H (High Speed, 5 fps with AA pack, 4 fps with Nicad). That's all I can remember on the thing. Oh, and with the AA pack, there is slide at the end that releases the battery insert to replace the batteries.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Dec 29 21:18:31 2000 ):
Bart - There are two DIY squeek fixes I have heard of. The good one requires that really know the inside of the mirror box, and is where you reach in with a bit of grease on your fingertip and apply it to the right place. The other consists of putting a drop of oil in a hole in the back. As I understand it, the mirror dampener (which is what is squeeking) is supposed to be lubed with grease. So the oil drop repair, while it may stop the squeek is not really the best way to do it. I figure, by the time the thing starts squeeking, it really needs a full CLA.
From Jim (Fri Dec 29 21:07:28 2000 ):
I recently purchased an A1 with motor drive and have been using it for several months. Unfortunately, it was without manual and there are several buttons, slides etc that I'm uncertain of. Anyone out there able to provide some help? A diagram w/brief explaination? Thanks!
From Winston (Fri Dec 29 10:41:19 2000 ):
Bart/Deidre: Deidre thanks for the plug. Bart I have not tried the do-it-yourself shutter squeak repair, But I have watched my friend Bill do it many times with out having to strip the camera for this service. He makes it look very easy, but I would not be able to describe it with out a Video of him doing it. I can tell you that the shutter curtains are very close to where you have to apply the lubricant, one slip with the wrong type of lubricant or too much and you will need some new shutter curtains. I can do a lot of things but when it comes to camera repair I leave it to Bill. We are all capable of doing most things, but we don t know until we try, you are willing to try, that s the way to go, I admire that. Good luck. Winston
From Winston (Fri Dec 29 09:43:01 2000 ):
Jean-Luc: If I remember rightly, the winder red light comes on at the end of the film. Does the film wind on freely with out the winder attached? Some was selling some kind of A-1 repair manual on Ebay the other day. Good luck. Winston
From Winston (Wed Jan 3 14:10:54 2001 ):
Dwight: The problem you described sounds like a dirty or weak release magnet. The price your camera store gave you, ($120.00) would include their mark up, and it looks reasonable. Most stores adds 100% to their repair cost and a camera repair shop (Has a storefront for Joe public) will charge the same or a little less. A repair shop (no storefront for Joe public) does repair for your local camera stores will charge you a little more than they charges your camera store, equals BIG savings to you. So to get a clean, lube, new light seals, new mirror foam, recalibrate light meter and shutter. That takes care of the squeak too, cost from $70.00 to as high as you are willing to pay, Or as my favorite auctioneer would say Remember; The more it cost the more it s worth I am the original owner of an 1978 A-1. And it has only had one of the above services in its long hard life, Then she refuse to wake up one day two Years ago, She got a replacement on/off switch and there is no stopping her now. I am a happy A-1 owner. Look around for a repair shop, If you need help just drop me an e-mail.Good luck.
From Winston (Wed Jan 3 14:01:09 2001 ):
All the DIY: Shutter/Mirror squeak: Bill use the lubricant LPS-1 Good luck.
From Mike Emory (Wed Jan 3 08:14:34 2001 ):
I just got an AE1-Program as a gift and I'm completely new to SLRs. I've been studying up as much as I can and this site has already helped me out immensely. I have a couple of questions though. If I set the aperture manually and put the shutter speed on Program, will it automatically select the "correct" shutter speed for proper exposure, or do I have to put the aperture on Program and change the shutter speed until the f-stop I want shows up on the display? Also I recieved a Kalimar 175A Flash and I have no idea how the hell to use it. Well, I mean I can get it to work, but I don't have the foggiest idea how to set it and the camera properly. There's a switch on the front with an "M" and blue and red dots, and a switch on the back with different f-stops on it, film speeds above it, and distances below it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I've only taken and developed one roll, and one picture was double-exposed. Any ideas? Thanks a lot.
From Dwight Skinner (Wed Jan 3 04:44:10 2001 ):
My ~1985 Canon AE-1P camera is getting sick. This was a present from my in-laws on Christmas 1998 and I've enjoyed it ever since. The problem: occasionally when I press the shutter button, the shutter does not fire. There is no problem with the battery or light meter, the shutter just doesn't fire. I suspect that the shutter does not always return to the correct position and therefore, cannot fire. What is the fix for this? The local camera shop which sends the cameras out for repair says it need a full maintenance at $120. Is this worth it? This occasional problem is getting more frequent!!! Thanks in advance. Dwight
From Irwin (Tue Jan 2 06:54:29 2001 ):
Terry, you are so on top of these stuffs. My father used to say half of fixing is cleaning things up, you know. The only thing I can add is maybe some Radio Shack spray electronic cleaner with the plastic bristle brush. Use sparingly. Wipe off so it dont run down on the body. The bristles help in the tight spots. Just an idea to add to the eraser one. I am sure Terry is correct and nailed this one. Happy New Year all. Be Well. Be regular. Prune juice with vodka for the morning after. Your friend, Irwin Schmedrick, Esq.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Jan 1 22:08:26 2001 ):
Tom - When I have had this happen, it is due to either dirty flash contacts or a loose fit in the hot shoe. To clean the contacts use an ordinary pencil erasers and rub the contacts, both on the camera, and on the flash. Realize that the metal edges that grip the flash are contacts also. For the flash contact in the groove, you will probably need something thin, but some folded paper will actually clean the contacts. As for loose fit, check when the flash is on the camer whether it will wiggle forwards and backwards. If it does, try pushhing it one way or the other while firing the camera (without film of course). I have found normally that the weight of the flash will tilt it forward and not fire, so pulling the top back slightly will make it work. I don't know which flash you have, but the ones I have have some form of locking device to lock the flash on. If they is not working, or you are not using it, this can happen.
From Kirby Chilton (Mon Jan 1 09:11:25 2001 ):
Dennis, Look inside the film chamber of your camera. You will see an alphanumeric code printed in black ink. It should be something like "X962". The first character is the year code starting with A in 1960, so in this case the X means 1983. The next 2 characters are the month code, and may or may not have a leading zero. In this case, 9 would be September. Have a safe and happy New Year all.
From tom (Mon Jan 1 05:05:45 2001 ):
A question about my Canon flash for my AE 1 Program. The flash has new batteries, but when I mount it on the camera it only works occasionally, not with every photo I want to shot. Recently out of 5 I might get 3 that the flash will come on for. any thoughts on how to remedy? thanks.
From Dennis Chandler (Mon Jan 1 03:16:28 2001 ):
A simple question with no way to get an answer. Trying to find out when my A1 was made. Serial #2230863. Any help would be appreciated. Happy New Year to all and especially to the one who gives me the answer.
From Co-Maintainer (Mon Jan 1 01:53:44 2001 ):
On behalf of other co-maintainers of this board - Wishing everyone of you a properous, productive, and a highly rewarding year 2001. * This Message will be deleted three days later from this Board. Thank you.
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jan 7 20:58:21 2001 ):
Rick - I am not familar with the 200E, but most Canon flashes will work on most cameras. It is just that you don't have a match of capability. I would either pick up a basic "auto" flash like a Vivitar 283/285, or get one of the Canon A or T series Speedlights. WRT pictures, the meter sets the exposure assuming the the scene is midddle gray. If you shoot a shot of mainly snow, the meter tries to make the snow gray, so you have to increase the exposure. Depending on the camera you can use exposure compensation (A-1), manual mode, or meter on something middle toned and use the exposure lock while you recompose. The palm of your hand is close enough to middle toned for print film.
From Rick (Sun Jan 7 10:37:27 2001 ):
I recently purchaced an AE-1 from KEH.com, I was wondering if the 200e speedlight will work on this camera and if anyone has used this combination with any success? The first role was shot of rabbit tracks in the snow came out way underexpossed but a little retouching helped some. I think the hopper stopped on the third jump for a rest.... www.geocities.com/Paris/Cafe/6986/rabbitrack.html Thanks ahead of time for all responses. ~R~
From Kirby Chilton (Thu Jan 4 12:52:18 2001 ):
Bart, I just put my mirror 500mm lens on my AL-1. On the A setting, it sets the shutter speed. Dave, I think you just pull the rewind knob up to release the back. Any other questions, please ask.
From dave (Thu Jan 4 12:24:55 2001 ):
umm, this might make me the most ignorant bastard to ever walk the earth, but I just bought a used AT-1 today, it's my first slr. And I've been doing a whole bunch of reading and figuring out how to use it. but when I took it home, I immediately shot a roll of film, and now, I can't seem to get the back open to get out. it didn't come with a manual, so maybe someone more enlightened than I could tell me what to do. I've already rewound the film, and in desperation I shot a whole lot more pictures of nothing after it was wound. please help, I'm an idiot
From Winston (Thu Jan 4 12:04:40 2001 ):
Bart: I never used an AL-1, Sorry I can t help you, but what is a TS-35? Is this the tilt and shift lens? I know if you were using a mirror lens on say a AE-1 you would meter in the normal way and change the shutter speed until the camera indicate the aperture of the mirror lens. If the TS-35 is a manual stop down lens again using a AE-1 meter as normal set shutter speed to indicate the aperture of your choice and stop the lens down to that aperture and shoot. Good luck.
From bart eleveld (Thu Jan 4 06:35:45 2001 ):
I asked this question a few pages back and it wasn't clearly answered, perhaps because I combined it with several other questions, so here goes again. How would you meter and shoot an AL-1 with a non-AE lens such as the TS-35 or a mirror telephoto. Neither of these lenses has an A position on the aperture ring, and in effect, you would be metering in stopped-down mode. But I'm not sure whether the AL-1 recognizes stop-down metering. Does aperture priority still work if the lens is stopped down? (PS: That's essentially what the A-1 and T-90 do on aperture priority with a stopped down lens)
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jan 4 02:28:20 2001 ):
Mike - No, if you take the lens out of Auto mode, the indications in the viewfinder at recommendations. The camera has no idea what aperture is set. The shutter speed selector will set the shutter speed, and the meter will read out the suggested aperture, but you have to then set the lens to that. The one thing that drives me crazy about Canon A and T series, is how hard they are to use in full manual mode. And yes, you can just leave the lens in Auto and select the shutter speed that gives you the aperture you want. Or buy an A-1, AV-1 or T90 and get aperture priority mode.
From Winston (Wed Jan 3 21:59:42 2001 ):
Mike: Sorry I refereed to you as Mark in my last posting. I don t know if your Kalimar is a dedicated conon flash but if it is, when its on the camera and you set the shutter speed faster than 1/60 sec. (lets say 1/125sec.) It would change it to 1/60 sec. Automatically. If it doesn t then its not dedicated and you must set a shutter speed of 1/60 sec. or longer. Next you set the Film ASA you are using, set it on the flash, now the Blue and red dots will show distances on the dial for each color and each color will have it s own aperture setting, next set the switch on the front to Red or Blue. Now set the lens aperture to whichever aperture the dot you selected is pointing to on the flash (f4. F2.8 or what ever) You need to have the flash in front of you when you are reading this for it to make any sense at all. One more thing you should look at the maximum distances indicated by the colors and shoot with in them for proper exposures. Its really easier than it sounds and looks, I just don t know how to write it. Learn all the above and we can do the manual settings next time. Good luck and don t give up.
From Winston (Wed Jan 3 14:35:27 2001 ):
Mark:You are right, set the aperture on auto and move shutter speed until you get the aperture you want to use. Or set aperture on auto and shutter on Program and let the camera do it all, or set aperture on auto and use what ever shutter speed that will give a proper exposure, that goes for the above examples too. Falling a sleep so I will leave your flash question to others. Good luck.
From Winston (Wed Jan 3 14:28:45 2001 ):
Or set aperture on auto and shutter on Program and let the camera do it all, or set aperture on auto and use what ever shutter speed that will give a proper exposure, that goes for the above examples too. Falling a sleep so I will leave your flash question to others. Good luck.
From Winston (Fri Jan 12 10:10:35 2001 ):
Terry: - Omega triangle / Omega U/ = Omega / - Omega T / I Omega / Omega V/ Omega T/ Omega W/ Omega U. Only the first one has 3 Greek character, The I Omega , is a short 1or I, I found another one so my total is 9. Are these a good Chinese copy of the AE-1? Hope you can shed some light on this mater. I knew of this dating information for just over a Year but didn t really check the letters/numbers - http://www.vision.net.au/~mhyland/lineup.html#manufacture - Until Syd said.
From Syd Croft (Fri Jan 12 05:21:13 2001 ):
Terry- The code to which I referred on Jan 9 is not worn. There is no mistaking the letters and numbers that are printed in black ink, in the recess that takes the film cassette. There are six characters in all, and reading from left to right they are :- 1. A horizontal bar (similar to a minus sign). 2. A Greek capital letter omega. 3. An inverted Greek capital letter delta. 4. A figure one. 5. A figure five. 6. A figure one. There are no other letters or figures, either printed or engraved, inside the film chamber of my AE-1. I have no idea what they mean, but they are there, be under no illusions about that. I like Irwin s reference to the Rosetta stone, but seriously, I say again, has anyone actually asked Canon about linking the serial numbers on cameras, with their date of manufacture?
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jan 11 22:27:07 2001 ):
Winston - How many start with a minus or dash? How many have a Greek character as the third character rather than a number?
From Winston (Thu Jan 11 09:15:16 2001 ):
Terry: I don t think the letters are worn on Syd s AE-1. I have 12 AE-1 s and 8 of them have omega as the first or second letter. (Printing is perfect too) Looked at 10 A-1/ AE-1P s but didn t see omega on any if them. I thought Syd may have a very special AE-1 but I have 8 so I know they are not special I am not that lucky, if it weren t for bad luck I wouldn t have any
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jan 11 05:16:35 2001 ):
Syd - Your code is probably worn or wasn't well printed to begin with. Also look around to see if you can find any other printing.
From Irwin (Wed Jan 10 14:23:44 2001 ):
So,nu, Denice?. On line manual from Malaysia down below is not good enough. Ok, John Craig has to make money for fishing lures. www.craig.com. The Manual Man. Say, you know if I knew all the months my cameras ( And I got more than my share) I could have little Birthday parties :-)The biggest riddle is why them potzes cant just put the month and the year in numerals, like my Grape Nuts Flakes and Salami. Go figure.So, A Rosetta Stone they make us dig up. Like we have the time. Denice is still studying how to work the camera,me too, young lady. Be well, enjoy. Hold the municipal bonds. Irwin Shmedrick. Chez Irwin, Ltd. Kosher Delicacies and Dog Treats since 1969
From Denice Rochelle (Wed Jan 10 04:42:42 2001 ):
I'm looking for an original manual for a Cannon AE-1 Program camera.
From Kirby Chilton (Tue Jan 9 13:25:02 2001 ):
Here is the site for the date information. http://www.lmrl.lu/cr/agedet.htm
From Kirby Chilton (Tue Jan 9 13:02:55 2001 ):
Syd, Please let us know what the code is in your A1. The code works on my A-1, an FTBn, a Al-1, and a Pellix, but I can't check my AE-1 because a friend has it. Very interesting.
From Syd Croft (Tue Jan 9 04:04:23 2001 ):
Like Dennis Chandler (Jan1), I too would like to know when my cameras were made. I must admit I thought this could be done with reference to the serial numbers on the camera bodies, and that Canon would be able to link these numbers with the year of manufacture. I assume from Kirby Chilton s contribution (also Jan 1)that it is not as easy as this, although I would be interested to learn whether anyone has actually tried contacting Canon. I tried putting Kirby s theory about
the alphanumeric code printed in black ink , to the test. Since my A-1 has film in it, I could only inspect my AE-1, but sure enough, I found some printing there, that I had never noticed before. However, unlike the format of Kirby s example, this reads

minus omega delta 151'I have had to write it longhand, because this font won t reproduce Greek symbols. However, does anyone know what it means?
From Winston (Thu Jan 18 20:35:01 2001 ):
Syd: I wouldn t expect the AE-1 to behave any differently than the A-1 in that satiation, or any other SLR for that matter. I was just curious. The smaller Aperture of (F8.) should not affect the accuracy of the rangefinder. It s just a personal thing with me, my eyes are not as good as they were, OK I know, it s time for me to see a good optician, I have heard of them but I have not been able to see one. It s nice to know that the Pentax magnifier is inter changeable with the Canon, Don t know if the eyepiece slots are standard size.
From Roniq Bartanen (Thu Jan 18 16:09:09 2001 ):
Can you only use Canon FD mount lenses on an AE-1. I did get away with using another brand on the camera for three years. Then I had it serviced and it started locking up. I bought a new lens(still not a canon one)because I was told my other lens was a faulty. The new lens worked great for a while then the camera started freezing up again. It never does it when I have my canon 35-70 lens on there. I know all this sounds very obvious as to what the problem is. I just don't understand why I would be able to use a non canon lens on my AE-1 for three years and then suddenly have it start not working. Any comments or theroys are welcome. Thank you much.
From Syd (Thu Jan 18 09:14:31 2001 ):
Winston: Yes, I did test the Centon 500 mm mirror lens on my A-1, but I wouldn t expect the AE-1 to behave differently, would you? Nevertheless, I will have a look tomorrow. Yes, you are right again, the lens aperture is f8. This does mean that sometimes half of the split image is totally black, and it is difficult to angle the camera to see a split image, but once that is done, would you expect the small aperture to affect the accuracy of the rangefinder? As far as the magnifier is concerned, it is a Pentax item, that I bought many years ago for my H2. It fits the slot in the A-1 eyepiece perfectly, as does the right angle finder, which is very useful, and has saved me quite a lot of money. However it begs a question that I have thought about for a long time, and never bothered to find the answer to, is the eyepiece slot a standard size for all cameras?
From Winston (Thu Jan 18 07:48:43 2001 ):
Richard: The problem you described could be a bad magnet, it s not a DIY as it will need re-calibrating. Talk to your favorite camera repair shop or e-mail me. Good luck.
From Richard (Wed Jan 17 19:45:14 2001 ):
Got a AE-1 in very good condition but... the shutter doesn´t respond to shutter settings. It seems that the same shutter speed is used every time. Wondering if anybody have a suggestion to solve this?
From Winston (Wed Jan 17 10:16:01 2001 ):
Syd: What camera did you test this Centon 500 mm mirror lens on? Your A-1? And what aperture is the lens f8? I find it impossible to use the split image focusing with anything smaller than F5.6 I have to use the ground glass, May be if I had at-least one good eye I would be alright, Could I borrow you magnifier J? If it wasn t lightweight you could use it as a boat anchor. Well let s hope we can all learn from your experience, I know I have. Thank you.
From Syd Croft (Wed Jan 17 02:21:31 2001 ):
Does anyone have experience of Centon 500 mm mirror lenses? I bought one second hand a few months ago, and I don t know whether my particular example is defective, or whether the performance of this type of lens is intrinsically lower than I expect from a conventional lens. The lens certainly it looks the part, insofar as it is lightweight (which is why I bought it) and its specification on paper is impressive. It looks well made, and although it is not new, it would be extremely difficult for most people to pick it out of a batch that was. The problems start when I use it. Focussing is difficult, primarily because the depth of field is so shallow. Moreover it is impossible to compensate for this by using a smaller aperture, because there isn t one. It is fixed aperture. As a result, the macro facility hardly seems worth bothering with. As an example, I took a photograph of an object at a distance of about ten feet, in my garden on a bright summer s day. The camera was on a tripod and operated by cable release. Focussing was assisted by a magnifier attached to the viewfinder. In other words, conditions were as near ideal as possible, but the definition of the print left much to be desired, possibly not even being as good as that of an old fashioned family snapshot taken on an Box Brownie. Another quirk is that the screen and the split image range finder in the viewfinder, do not focus on the same point. For this reason, the example I referred to previously, was taken using both methods, all to no avail. Finally, I do not understand why it is possible to turn the focussing ring past infinity. I know this does not apply only to my lens because I have tried others of the same type that are brand new, and they are the same.
From Syd Croft (Mon Jan 15 05:23:47 2001 ):
Winston: Your identification marks are very interesting. What you are calling Omega V could well be the same as I have called Omega Inverted Delta. Indeed this may also be the same as your Omega triangle, although if the
triangle is the other way up, it could be a capital Lambda. Also T is the Greek capital Tau, and I is the Greek capital Iota. W could easily be a capital Psi and/or U could be a capital Psi with the central vertical stroke missing. Having recapped on my Greek alphabet, I am now willing to bet that the second figure one, that I referred to in the code on my AE-1 (Jan 12) is in fact a capital Iota. It is certainly different from the first figure one. Whilst I hope everyone will forgive the pun its all Greek to me , if the characters printed in black ink in the film chamber are some form of date code, one possibility is that along with the system described by Dennis Chandler on Jan 1, there is another one based on Greek characters. The other possibility of course, is that if Dennis capital X is interpreted as a the Greek capital Chi, all the letters may be Greek
From Winston (Fri Jan 12 21:17:49 2001 ):
Terry: Yes I did send e-mail to the Arthur/ person but I have not had a reply as yet, My guess is it s a long chain back to the source of this information. You know every thing was fine until some troublemaker in the UK started talking about his Omega! I would tell you all, who the troublemaker is but, I don t want to get Syd In trouble :)
From Terry Carraway (Fri Jan 12 20:18:04 2001 ):
Winston - That is interesting. Maybe you ought to email the person who has the date code information.

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