Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 601-650 |

From Terry Carraway (Sun Jul 9 21:15:38 2000 ):
Jimmy - How wide do you want, and how much do you want to spend. Canon made 24, 20, 17, and 14mm wide angle lenses (the 24mm is available in f2.8, f2.0, and f1.4), along with a 20-35 and 24-35 zoom. This doesn't include the fisheye 15mm and 7.5mm. There are also aftermarket lenses. Prices range from not to bad, to VERY expensive. I personally use only Canon lenses.
From olu karib (Sun Jul 9 15:31:40 2000 ):
my 188A flash has a broken part. It's the plastic part on the bottom of the flash that slides into the shoe of the camera. There are four screws that attatch this part to the flash. Is it possible to purchase the part? If not, what current canon flashes can I purchase as replacements?
From jimmy (Sun Jul 9 06:56:13 2000 ):
I am looking for a wide angle for my A-1, I have a 28mm, but need something wider. Any suggestions? Thanks
From Terry Carraway (Sat Jul 8 22:29:11 2000 ):
MA Motor Drive and A series - There was a question a while back about using the MA motor drive on other A series cameras. Only the A-1 and AE-1P are compatible with the MA Motor Drive. Only these two cameras have the 4 electrical contacts required, also they are the only ones with the internal circuitry to support the motor drive, and MOST IMPORTANT, they are the only ones that have beefed up film transport components to take the higher torque of the motor drive versus the power winder.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jul 6 06:15:58 2000 ):
Mark - If Aperture Priority was that easy, the would have stopped making the A-1. Try and let us know if it works. WRT the long lenses, Canon makes some great lenses, but, as you found out, they can be expensive, but they are the best. Once you go to third are giving something up, build quality, quality control, or optical quality. There is no such thing as a free lunch, so you are going to get less if you pay less. As to speed, get as fast as you can afford. Not for the low light, but for the ability to reduce depth of field to separate the subject from the background. That is why the 300 2.8 L for sports shooting. Drop-in mean it takes drop in filters instead of screw on filters. Screw on filters would be HUGE. The Canon 300 2.8 L takes 48mm filters in a drop in holder. There is also a holder for gel filters.
From Mark McDonald (Wed Jul 5 23:07:32 2000 ):
Firstly, this site rocks. Secondly, sorry if I'm going over things that have already been covered in this message board, but my connection isn't too good and I would spend ages if I tried to sift through the old messages. Anyway, my questions are as follows: 1) I read on a webpage somewhere that even though the AE1P manual doesn't mention 'Apperture Priority AE', it does have this functionality. Basically the webpage said all you need to do is set shutter speed to 'Program' and manually set the apperture. Is this true? 2) I'm interested in trying some amateur sports photography and was thinking about buying a bigger lens. Unfortunately I've seen the prices of the Canon brand lenses and was wondering if anyone can recommend any 3rd party brands like Tokina, Vivitar or Sigma. I'm thinking of getting something like a 300mm. Also I was wondering what's the minimum speed I should get. I'll be doing outdoor photography with either 400 or 800 asa film, but would like to be able to take photos in partially cloudy conditions if necessary. 3) I was looking at the www.keh.com site for lenses and some of them have (Drop-in) in their description. What does this mean? Sorry for my ignorance, any help is greatfully appreciated. Thanks, Mark.
From Winston (Tue Jul 4 08:15:30 2000 ):
Lori. My friend Bill has a fix for the AL-1 Battery door latch, he replace them with a hand made brass latch.
From Winston (Tue Jul 4 08:09:41 2000 ):
Bill. Get an AC adapter : ) The battery drain is normally cause by a bad switch, a short in the wiring or circuit board. How is the camera with out the winder attached? Do you still have the battery drain? Does the winder drain the battery when it s off the camera? I have a deal for you on batteries. Let me have some answers and I will pass them on to my friend Bill.
From LoriKS (Tue Jul 4 07:55:25 2000 ):
I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas on the simplest way to fix the battery door on the AL-1. I know tape works..but I wanted something more permenant and attractive. Thanks
From Bill Smith (Tue Jul 4 07:26:24 2000 ):
I recently purchased a A2 power winder for my AE1p canon and even when the power winder is in the off position my battery in the camera goes dead (within one day) and also the 4 AA batteries go dead in the same amount of time.....As you know the battery in the AE1P cost around $8.00...cant't afford to purchase these by the gross....Has anyone ever had this problem or may know what is draining both the battery in the camera and the ones in the winder so fast?
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jul 13 20:03:45 2000 ):
Roland - As someone else pointed out, try operating the camera without the lens. Another thing to try is to open the back, and while pressing the rewind button, move the sprocket next to the take up reel. Sometimes that is required to get it into rewind mode. The wind lever then should work. If not, it sounds like time to take it to a repair station.
From Mark McDonald (Wed Jul 12 18:54:52 2000 ):
Karrie: Another good place for used equipment is www.keh.com. I just had a look and there's a finger grip for the A1 for sale at $17. In England there's also a big chain of stores called Jessops who have a national database of used equipment. If you email usedequipment@jessops.co.uk with the details of what you want they'll tell you what they have in their stores. As for the Canon site, if you look in the Camera Museum you'll see all the old models in there.
From Clint (Wed Jul 12 12:02:08 2000 ):
Roland: I had the same problem as you. It was the lens locking the camera up. Have you tried taking the lens off the camera? I still don't know what is wrong with the lens but my camera is fine. Good luck from Clint in Virginia.
From Clint (Wed Jul 12 11:55:20 2000 ):
Karrie: Larry is right. In the last two months I have bought an A-1,F-1,FTQL,35-105mm lens and manuals on Ebay. Just be careful who you buy from. Make sure they have a good feedback rating. If there was only one crook left in the world, it's still to many. Good luck
From Larry Geary (Wed Jul 12 08:45:11 2000 ):
Karrie: Don't despair. Check out the used Canon items for sale on eBay. There are tons of them. I recently picked up lenses I've wanted for 20 years, good as new. Parts are available (sometimes the right one is hard to find, though). Service is available. Whole cameras are available, in good working order. Check it out.
From Karrie (Wed Jul 12 07:42:16 2000 ):
Just found this message board while trying to find out where to get a longer lense and the finger grip for my A-1. I guess it should have occurred to me that I've had this camera a very long time and items may not be available, but I was stunned at how all mention of them has completely disappeared from the Canon site! I really don't want to invest in a whole new camera system. I have an AE-1, an A-1, 70-210, 28-55, 50, macro, extension tubes, flash, etc etc etc BUMMER!!
From Roland (Wed Jul 12 00:54:06 2000 ):
I have a problem with my Canon AE-1. As I pushed the shutter button, the shutter hang on. So I bought a brandnew battery, but the shutter doesn´t works. Then I pushed the film rewind button. The battery check is ok. Then I pushed the selftimer. The LED was blinking for 10 seconds but the shutter does not work. The film advance lever is locked and I can´t move it. Can I fix the problem or must I visit a repair shop? Can you Terry or anybody help me? Many thanks from Roland (Germany).
From Terry Carraway (Tue Jul 11 20:28:26 2000 ):
EPerez - Any Canon FD and most Canon FL lenses will work. I would stick with FD lenses, with either mount. With the old mount there are SC and SSC lenses. The SSC lenses are multicoated and are more resistant to flare. Most (all but one or two) of the new FD mount lenses are multicoated.
From EPerez (Tue Jul 11 09:13:57 2000 ):
I own a AE-1 aqnd have been looking to add to my lens collection but I sometimes see SSC initial can these be used intead of the bayonet FD newer lens>thanks
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jul 9 21:16:35 2000 ):
Olu - You might find a place that has that part, but it may not be worth looking. You can find nice 188A flashes available used, but I would consider getting a 199A or 299T for the extra capability.
From Carlos Baeza (Wed Jul 19 19:31:19 2000 ):
I recently bought an used METZ 45 CT-4 for my canon AE-1 and it comes with a regular sinchro cord. Does anybody know which contacts do I have to connect from the flash to the hotshoe in order to use all the features (automatic speed and apperture switch when flash is ready). Any info about Metz and/or canon flash signals and voltages are useful. THANKS
From Terry Carraway (Tue Jul 18 21:06:20 2000 ):
Rick - The only difference between the two AE-1s is the color and the value. The all black ones tend to be worth more. The other camera I don't know. WRT learning, you can learn on them, but the AE-1 is not the best for this since it too automated, and manual operation is tedious. Although with a separate light meter, it works fine as an all manual camera. For learning, the more things manual the better for learning control. For composition, it doesn't really matter how automated as you are paying more attention to WHAT you are shooting rather than HOW. Go have fun.
From Rick Heis (Tue Jul 18 04:35:43 2000 ):
I recently inherited 2 Canon AE-1 camera's and an Canon EXEE camera. Unfortunately, I know very little about these camera's or photography in general, but these were my Dad's camera's and I wish to learn. First question, the AE-1s, one is solid black and one is not, what is the differences? Are these camera's a good camera to learn 35 MM with or should I sell and purchase more modern equipment? The AE-1s came with several lenses and most of the accesorries... What about the Canon EXEE? Thanks for your assistance in advance, Rick
From Rose (Mon Jul 17 12:47:29 2000 ):
I have an A-1 system which I enjoy very much. I had it to the shop for its "check up". My camera now has a PROBLEM that has stumped the repair technician. The aperture readout in the viewfinder is NOT correct, but yet, the exposure is ok. (The repair service I used is a reputable and authorized one, and I have had nothing but good service from them in the past.) As it was explained to me, the information shown in the VF is wrong, but when the shutter is fully pressed, the camera DOES stop down to the correct exposure (just not what is read in the VF). So, this does not interfere with exposure in any of the modes EXCEPT full manual mode. If I were to shoot in full manual mode, I would be lost and would need a hand-held meter. The reading is not always off by the same amount either. Apparently the readout can vary from shot to shot between being one, two or three stops off. The photographs it takes are fine, but I would really like to have this repaired so I can know the "real" reading. Other than that, the camera is really in perfect shape. I contacted Strauss in DC that is often recommended on this board, and they were at a loss as well. I appreciate any information anyone can offer, although I am not just looking for someone who wants to look at the camera. As unique as this problem is, I am sure someone out there has come across this same problem. I appreciate all help...
From marvin (Sun Jul 16 13:30:50 2000 ):
I will like to know where can I buy parts for an A-1 camera. I need the ASA dial. Also I will like to have a repair manual. Please let me know. Thank you Marvin
From Winston (Sat Jul 15 07:58:33 2000 ):
Ed, Did your friend get this AE-1P for you a few months ago? If so I am the person who sold it. He had told me about this problem, I told him he could return it and I would have it fixed at no cost to him. This offer is still good, I talked to the camera mechanic about this matter and he has not had this problem before, but he will fix it. Your friend did say you might not need to use a cable release or bother to have it fixed. Before every one start sending me their cameras to fix for free I have a list of all the cameras serial #s that I have sold, so don't try it.
From Karrie (Fri Jul 14 10:49:27 2000 ):
Thank you for all of the helpful comments and ideas for sources!!
From Ed (Fri Jul 14 06:57:54 2000 ):
Cable release I recently obtained an AE1 Program from E Bay which seems to perform ok in all respects, Except the cable release. Does not trip the shutter. My ol AE1 is ok in this regard. Any hints guys?
From Simone (Thu Jul 13 20:08:15 2000 ):
Hi, I have just inherited a Motor drive MA with a ni-cad base BUT no charger. I'm so frustrated...I can't fin one anywhere, does anyone know what voltage/milliampage etc it needs please. I'm sure I could use a variable one from Tandys/RadioShack etc Any advice dearly welcome. Thanks
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jul 13 20:07:02 2000 ):
Karrie - Canon has not made A series cameras since the mid 80s and no FD cameras, lenses, or parts since the early 90s. But the good news is, there are LOTS of lenses and parts out there. eBay has the finger grips fairly often as well as just about every lens made. The big problem will be deciding what you want, or at least what you can afford. The two big things to remember is to avoid any seller with unresolved or a bunch of negative feedback, and don't over bid. Things will be available time after time. VERY few things are one off, and then, expect to pay a BUNCH.
From Winston (Sun Jul 23 00:32:31 2000 ):
Carlos, The Metz 45 is an auto flash in that you set an apperture for a given distant. But it will not set shutter speed or apperture on your AE-1 you have to set them manualy. you have to use the PC cord.
From Winston (Sun Jul 23 00:17:55 2000 ):
Rose Did the repair shop try another LCD display? My friend Bill the camera mechanic think that could be the problem. Only problem is he is not an authorized canon repair shop but he knows how to repair them and don't charge an arm and a leg like the big guys do. He has repaired many cameras that authorized repair centers said were unrepairable.
From Winston (Sun Jul 23 00:00:57 2000 ):
Sanda & Ed, You have a battery drain problem my friend can fix that unless it has a bad chip or PC board. Price $30-50.00. Ed's cable release would not work Problem was a frozen release pin.
From sandra skolnik (Sat Jul 22 09:58:55 2000 ):
I have had my Canon AE-1 for almost 20 years now and am quite attached to it. In the past few years, I have had trouble with batteries being drained and stopping within 3 months of use. The battery that originally came with the camera lasted forever, it seemed. I have had the camera cleaned a few times, and nothing seems to solve the problem. Is the camera kaput? or are modern-day batteries of lower quality. I have tried brand-name camera batteries as well as professional camera batteries - same result. I hate to have to buy a new camera, but may have to do. The features I like on the AE-1 are shutter-speed priority; manual focusing; ease of lens removal and addition. And overall performance. Is there a similar modern camera that is on the market? I don't want motor drive, programmed focusing or too many bells and whistles - just a reliable and great camera like the AE-1. thanks
From TomR (Fri Jul 21 22:32:52 2000 ):
Ant: If you're considering the A-1 now, go for the few extra bucks and get it instead of the AE-1P. I quickly went to aperture priority as my standard shooting mode unless I needed to freeze the action. Friends who have AE-1s or other shutter priority cameras, to whom I have loaned my A-1 all found the same. The price jump should not be more than $50 or so. If you already have FD lenses and you can give up a few Saturday nights out, go for the T-90.
From Ant (Fri Jul 21 11:53:58 2000 ):
Irwin: Woo! Thanks for your detailed info! The other camera on my wish list is A1, I guess I can apply the same set of criteria in choosing it. Thanks once again!
From Irwin (Fri Jul 21 09:29:54 2000 ):
Good question, Ant. What to look for. In Detroit you know how they used to say never buy a car built on a Monday. Same in Japan.And watch out for AE-1P's assembled on the Japanese Lunar New Year month (using Barefoot's Canon decoder info). That is baloney my spouse says,pinching my arm. I say there has to be some value in Barefoot's astrology numbers, don't you think :-). Ok,lets get with the program, Irwin. In the back pages of this BB, you will find the camera quirks. So look for LED's bright, smooth winding, lens mount stable, lens clicks on with smoothness, mirror and shutter smooth, no scratches on finder pieces. Battery cover not missing. No shutter "mouse squeaks." Viewfinder screen and optics bright and clear,no fungus. Shutter curtain looks good. Camera light proof, there is a way to test you know-mini- mag light inside, dark room outside. And a dozen other items. Self timer works. Cable release works. Ooh yes, maybe shoot a quick roll of film and process in daylab.S0 Good luck and stay well. Irwin S.
From Paul Barefoot (Thu Jul 20 06:03:30 2000 ):
This is to everyone who has wondered what year your camera was made. Look inside the film chamber the next time you change film. There is a alphanumeric code printed in black ink on the black surface. This is your date code. The first letter is the year of manufacture. A=1960, B=1961,T=1979 and so on up to Z=1985. The next two numbers tell you the month the camera was made. Sometimes the leading zero on the month code was omitted.The next two numbers are an internal code, we have no idea what they mean. The last letter is the plant the camera was made. F = Fukushima. For example; U1140F would be Nov. 1980. If anyone knows about a lens code please post it for the rest of us.
From Ant (Thu Jul 20 02:33:51 2000 ):
I am thinking of buying an AE-1P. Is there anything that I need to pay special attention to? Thanks in advance
From Emily Allen (Wed Jul 19 20:57:09 2000 ):
I would appreciate any information on what exactly I am looking for to change the focusing screen on my AE-1 program. Currently I have a split window screen, but would like to go to possible grid, or cross hair. Am I looking for type D, or type E? Any help is appreciated!!! Thak you in advance.
From Ant (Thu Jul 27 20:49:27 2000 ):
Hi all: Anybody knows what is the difference between S.S.C./ S.C. and non-S.S.C./S.C. FD lenses? What does S.S.C./S.C. stands for? Thanks a lot!
From Irwin (Wed Jul 26 09:12:12 2000 ):
Your welcome Mike. The Canon teleconverters are complicated optical designs, having six or seven elements. So expect to pay over a hundred dollars. But I would personally never use with a lens that had less than f 2.8.,like the 200mm. That's just me. Stay well. Irwin Schmedrick
From Mike S (Tue Jul 25 11:35:53 2000 ):
Irwin, Thanks for the quick response to my request...will take your advice and look for a 2X-B!
From Winston (Tue Jul 25 09:13:02 2000 ):
Carlos, thanks for that info, my 45 CT did not have that capability, sound like a nice setup.
From Carlos Baeza (Tue Jul 25 04:25:21 2000 ):
Winston, thank you very much for your response. You were right, the flash can be used as an auto flash with the PC cord. I was afraid that was my best chance, but this model (45 CT-4, the one with the small fill flash) has an SCA-300 connector. I bought the apropiate adaptors (2nd hand): SCA300A plus SCA311. Not even the guy at the store believet it would do anything but IT WORKS! Flash actually set the X-speed and the apperture selected in the flash auto mode!! It controls the camera body exactly the same as a Canonlite 177A does. Of course since the camera has not TTL, I can't take advantage of the the TTL possition of the flash. I hope this info could be usefull for any of you guys. Thank you
From Leilani M. Ramsey (Tue Jul 25 02:53:58 2000 ):
I am looking for information on the Speedlite 133A flash. If anyone has a manual or specs please contact me at lramsey@gardenmosaic.com. Thanks!
From Tom S (Tue Jul 25 00:39:26 2000 ):
I have been using an A-1 w/ 199A combination. I recently bought a T-90 and am waiting for my 300TL flash to come in. I want to keep the A-1 as a backup, but not the 199A. For those who have a lot of experience with all of the above, am I correct in assuming from the on line instructions and the controls on the 300TL that it is completely incompatible with A series cameras?
From Ben (Tue Jul 25 00:31:28 2000 ):
Hi everyone, I have a AE-1Program Black Body camera and was wondering what meduim range zoom would be a good lens to use. I already have a canon 70-210, 24mm and the 50mm that came with the lens. I purchased a Vivitar 35-70mm lens back in the eighties and was not impressed with the sharpness of my pictures. I am also in the process of deciding if I should spend the $60.00 to have this lens fixed. Any comments?
From Irwin (Mon Jul 24 11:36:17 2000 ):
Hi Mike. Yours is a frequent question. First, you have to accept the idea that adding any teleconverter to a lens optical system is bound to screw up the sharpness a little bit. That's why a lot of folks say teleconverters are a no-no, particularly at wide apertures where the lens is already pushed to its design limit. Now Canon, the goodguys decided to make different models for different FL ranges to cut down this degradation of sharpness. If you look a the on line FD LensWork book, you'll see that the FD2X-A and the FD2X-B have different optical cross sections, ok. But mechanically they attach the same. And if you use them for a different range, the worse that happens I have read is that you can't expect the best combination with the lens wide open. But AE exposure is AE exposure, so the camera compensates if it can. Use the lenses where you have bright subjects and your results should be ok, whichever one you use. And hey, dont freak until you see the prints first. With slides, Irwin freaks all the time anyway:-). Be well and get a FD2XB when you can,its nice,I like it well. Irwin S.
From Mike S (Mon Jul 24 01:14:54 2000 ):
I would appreciate information concerning the Canon FD mount 2X-A extender. Realizing that this is recommended for lenses with a focal length greater than 300 mm, will it work with lenses having a shorter focal length? In using it with my A-1, I have found that it appears to work in auto mode with my 135 lens but not with my 70-210 (appears to work as I have yet to develop the film). My concern is whether or not the camera's meter reading is compensating for the (2 stop?) difference. Also, what is the actual difference between the 2X-A and 2X-B? Thank you very much!

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