Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 701-750 |

From Winston (Thu May 11 10:27:21 2000 ):
Sandy When you say the shutter is sticking, Is it stuck open or close? does it work normal with a good battery? you need to get the battery drain fixed, I have a camera mechanic who can fix your camera, if you need more info, drop a line.
From Sandy (Thu May 11 08:13:20 2000 ):
I'm hoping someone can supply some information about my AE-1. I have had a problem with the shutter "sticking" and had it repaired (at a professional camera store) once, but the problem recurred after a relatively short time. It almost seems like the battery wears down immediately and then the shutter sticks. Has anyone heard of this problem before, and does Canon have a repair center? Thanks.
From Terry Carraway (Wed May 10 20:43:27 2000 ):
Damien - The problem is, that as I understand it, the mirror dampner is supposed to lubricated with a grease, not an oil. And WD-40 is a very poor lubricating oil. Also you really don't want to be spraying stuff inside the camera, as there are places that lubrication is NOT supposed to be.
From Damian (Wed May 10 00:26:52 2000 ):
Does anybody know the "date of birth" of my second hand Canon A-1, N.708845 ? For those who reported problems with battery "eating": the problem could be the shutter release button. Unscrew the button and clean the elettro-contact. The A-1 think that you are costantly pressing half a way the shutter release button and the metering sistem exaucsted your battery... When you separate the button from the body just control if the seven red led is still active. If there is no sign, you've find the problem and it would be simple to fix with a handcarecheef. Bye, and sorry for my "strange" english. Hope you can decode it
From Damian (Tue May 9 23:44:19 2000 ):
Hy, last evening I fix my A-1 squeaz problems with only a WD-40 lub spray. It's simple: first off all you have to lock up the mirror and open the curtain by pressing the shutter release in Bulb function. Costantly pressing the button you spray a small dose of lub ONLY in the whole on the left back corner of the mirror on the rod. Release the shutter button and click... Theere is no problem enaugh. Note: - a very small dose of lub... you can accidentaly damage any of electronic part. Hope that it help to someone, Damian from SLO.
From Jochen Kittel (Mon May 8 20:49:30 2000 ):
Does anybody know how if the pin contacts for the Winder can be used to make a AE1-P take a photo. The Motor Drive MA has shutter release buttons so some of the pins must be used for it. Any information would be appreciated. This site contains more information concerning my AE1-P then the instruction manual. Hat off! Thank you Jochen Kittel
From Wesley (Mon May 8 05:06:57 2000 ):
You can scrub off corusion from the power winder contacts with fine sandpaper that and a little rubbing achole should get them working agian. If not atleast you tried.. If anyone needs a New MINT Canon AE-1program I have one for sale!! http://auction.cameradirect.com/auction/lot.cfm?lotID=485
From Terry Carraway (Mon May 8 02:22:06 2000 ):
Jose and Kathryn - It may be better to just find a replacement for the whole thing. In both cases the repairs are likely to cost more than finding a good used one. Start checking out local camera shops for used gear, or the internet, and eBay (www.ebay.com). Both Power Winders (A and A2) and 188A flashes are pretty common.
From Kathryn Bunnell (Sun May 7 03:14:21 2000 ):
I have a Power Winder A for my AE 1 Program which was packed away for several years with batteries inside. Corrosion destroyed the spring and contacts holding the batteries. Where can I get it repaired?? Would appreciate any help.
From JOSE (Sat May 6 21:07:25 2000 ):
HI: I bought my AE-Program while back is a good camera. I have a flash speedlite canon 188A and the base of the flash is broke. The part of the base is the one underneath the adjustable ring. I need for someone that has any info or any part for the flash. thanks jose :)
From Winston (Fri May 19 03:30:55 2000 ):
Sandy I talk to Bill the camera mechanic He said if you send the camera he will check it out and give you an estimate for $26.00 including return shipping, if you have him fix the camera there is no charge for the estimate. His prices are what he charge the camera stores. A mirror lube, new mirror foam and new light seals $50.00. you can use this as a guide
From Tom (Thu May 18 23:03:49 2000 ):
The Castle - (body cap, I assume) And it very much depends where you live - if you are a British Castle e.g. Windsor, Edinburgh et al. then I suggest you go to Jessops, but if you are American Castle (of which I know none) then KEH.com or eBay probably will furnish you with several of qualities varied.
From The Castle (Wed May 17 13:12:20 2000 ):
Hello, I need a lens cap for a AE-1. If anyone has one they would like to sell or know where I can find one. I cant seem to find one anywhere. Thanks a lot Castle :)
From Richey (Tue May 16 03:09:23 2000 ):
I am in need of a service manual for an A1. I just need especially one that has the camera take apart. Thanks
From Lewis (Sun May 14 20:29:00 2000 ):
Hi! The rewind crank assembly on my AE-1 fell off and got lost, is there any place to get a new one? All I have is the screw sticking out, if you lift it, the post is there. Otherwise the camera works fine. Thanks!!!!
From MarkD (Fri May 12 18:21:21 2000 ):
Patxi The Spanish AE-1 Program manual is at http://www.lmrl.lu/cr/indmanae.htm. Enjoy!!
From Sandy (Fri May 12 07:41:24 2000 ):
Winston: The shutter sticks in the open position. I haven't been able to operate the camera for a long time, but I remember that even with a new battery it would happen after a few shots. I really like the AE-1 but don't want to spend more money on repairs if it won't be permanent. Thanks for any help you can give.
From Patxi (Fri May 12 07:20:34 2000 ):
hello, I need help!!!! I have visited this web and I have liked a lot. I am a young picture student and I have an Ae-1 Program, but not the manual. in the Web there is one very good but in English and me I am Spanish and i´m no speak or read English, ¿can somebody provide me the manual of the Canon AE-1 Program and of the T-70?, or does he/she Know about some place where he/she can find it in Spanish?. Graciassssssssss
From Terry Carraway (Thu May 11 21:32:23 2000 ):
Matthew - This is not easy on an AE-1. The problem is that it is not just enabling the shutter button, you have to cock the shutter. The other way to do it (other than what are doing) is to after you shoot the first shot, tension the rewind knob slightly so the film is tight. Then push the rewind button, and move the lever to cock the shutter, and the film should not move. I don't have an AE-1, but this procedure works with the F-1. The other option is to pick up an A-1. It has a small lever under the cocking lever. You move it, and it allows cocking the shutter without the film advancing.
From Matthew (Thu May 11 19:32:48 2000 ):
On the Canon AE1, how do you accomplish multiple exposures without rewinding the film back one frame? I tried this and the counter will not read back, when attempting to rewind. ie, How does the shutter release button get reset without advancing the film?
From Ray (Mon May 29 01:47:37 2000 ):
Anyone know where I can find a replacement leather case for my AE-1? Thanks.
From Louis (Sat May 27 08:13:13 2000 ):
First off let me say thank you for your help on a previous question, was very helpful. Now my next problem. I am looking for some replacement battery for my FTb camera. It is a 1.3v Mercury Battery. U.S doesn't make them any longer. Is there any other battery I can use, that is more common, or something I can do other than a battery? And once again, Thank you all for your help. It is so kind of you.
From Dr S (Thu May 25 14:03:36 2000 ):
Dr Strangelove to Jimmy. How to shoot the little fastwing vogels you ask. Sugar water I think and fast shutter for them tiny rascals. If you have the camera set up right, I betcha you can get away with a nice 200mm lens. I see the Canon accessories and lenses all over the place, don't you?. But if it were me, I would maybe even buy a T adapter (you can look that up, no time to explain) and a Celestron spotting scope maybe even. Then you can go birding too. But if you have the nice generous budget, lots of long lenses in New York and West Coast dealers.( If you like eBay roulette I hear you can spin the wheel ok sometime.) Look at the magazine ads, you notice the big Canon glasses dont move so fast, cause most volks have limits on their credit cards and no swiss accounts like Dr S, hah and too smart to buy the katzen and hunds like Sigma blech. Me -javohl- I shoot only giant condors in zoo enclosures, with my 100mm. But gut luck.Oh yeah.winders all over for sale, also the remotes are not hard to find, nobody likes them much I think. Try Glazer's Camera Seattle for FD lenses. They have a Mr Canon there. Say der Professor sent you. Now excuse back to my bubble universe equations. Dr S c/o LaststopfurGas, MT.
From Jimmy (Thu May 25 09:15:38 2000 ):
I have an A-1 and am looking for some accessories. I want a 500 or 600 lens, winder A2, LC-1 remote control just to name a few. I am trying to photograph hummingbirds, any suggestions would be appreciated.
From Kim & Bunny (Wed May 24 10:28:56 2000 ):
Lynda, With the camera on LOCK Pull the film advance lever out until it stops pull up on the silver ring by placing you index finger on the green film speed and your thumb between the film advance lever and shutter release button While pulling up on the silver ring, turn to the film speed you need. Hint: Just touch the silver ring part (not the black part). Good luck. *KC and Bunny*
From Pete (Tue May 23 04:28:56 2000 ):
To Lewis (May 14/2000): go to www.triopa.com, click on "canon enthusiasts", then "for sale", then "fd camera/lenses". I thought I saw a recent ad of this item for sale there. Good luck.
From Louis (Sun May 21 22:03:25 2000 ):
Hi All, I am new to the AE-1 and have only 1 lense, can someone inform me as to what kind of lenses will be accepted on this AE-1 camera or location to purchase. And please know you can't be TOO BASIC with me...hehe. I am just learning, and thank you for your time.
From Jerry Ream (Sun May 21 05:25:13 2000 ):
Good message board with many sources of info on my AE-1 - One piece of info I'm looking for and haven't seen yet is, How can I take multiple exposures with it. I've tried Bulb, but once the shutter is released, that's it. Any input?
From Lynda J. Elkins (Sat May 20 12:32:35 2000 ):
Can someone tell me how to turn the asa to 800 instead of 400 that it is on now. I have been trying to turn this for hours I cannot turn the little ring that in circles the shutter speed. What is the procedure for doing this? Is there a way to hold the shutter speed position wheel so the asa wheel can be turned. I haven't used my 1976 canon AE1 for a very long time and it seems I have forgotten how to do this. Thank you Lynda Elkins
From Malcolm (Sat May 20 11:50:51 2000 ):
Gidday I just bought a AT-1 at a garage sale for $5 NZ. sweeet. anyway. it was kinda sandy but i cleaned it out a lot. the wind on action is quite lumpy. Any ideas why and how to fix it if it needs fixed. - cheers
From Terry Carraway (Sun Jun 4 21:29:02 2000 ):
Jimmy - Basically the LC-1 remote is for A series, and the LC-2 Remote is for T series. The LC-1 remote has a plug that looks like a mini headset plug. It mates with the Motor Drive MA-1 and the Power Winder A1 (not sure about the Power Winder A) to offer wireless remote operation. The LC-2 has a plug that fits the T3 socket on T series and some EOS cameras. It also offers a mode of operation that you can set up the transmitter and receiver so that the camera is triggered when the beam is interupted.
From jimmy (Sun Jun 4 09:25:48 2000 ):
Will someone please tell me the difference between the LC-1 and LC-2 remotes. Thanks
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 1 22:08:27 2000 ):
TomR - I will have to check on the LED display thing, but I have never had a lockup with my A-1/MA combo. I have shot full 36 exposure rolls as one long burst with the motor drive (I think in both L and H speed), but haven't had a problem. I don't remember any fun stuff with the LED readout, but never really looked at it. WRT the 300TL and A-1, I would guess that is the only way it will work.
From Terry Carraway (Thu Jun 1 22:05:23 2000 ):
Russ - The numbers stand for a Guide Number of 33 ft for ASA 25 film or GN 20 meters with ASA 100 film. The easy way to do this is to convert the meters to feet. To do this multiply by 3.3, so the GN is 66 feet at ASA 100. Since light acts according to the inverse square law, 4x the ASA equals 2x the GN. So for 400 film the GN of your flash would be 132 feet or 40 meters. For doubling the film speed multiple by 1.414 so for 200 speed film, you get GN 93.
From Russ (Thu Jun 1 01:58:47 2000 ):
I have a question about the flash that came with my AE1 Program. It is a Speedlite 166a. Normaly I just use the automatic settings when I need a flash, and for many years, I've gotten pretty good results. But now I would like to use the manual setting on the flash,especially for fill flash outside. Looking through this site I found the guide number for the 166a, which is posted as Guide Number: 20 (ASA 100, m) or 33 (ASA 25, ft). Now this confuses me. I usually use ISO 100 and I use feet instead of meters. Does ASA 25/ft, stand for ASA 25/10ft? If that is the case, than how should I calculate the guide number to go from ASA 25 to ASA 100? By the way this is a wonderful message board. I am glad to see so many others still using their Canon A-Series cameras.
From TomR (Thu Jun 1 00:48:06 2000 ):
Picked up a Motor Drive MA earlier this week and have a couple of questions. Prior to loading film I just ran the MA to check the action and noticed that exposures after the first give an LED readout of maximum aperture or slow shutter speed (dependent on whether Tv or Av selected) although a visual of the aperture on a constant light source in Tv mode shows that it is stopping down, or in Av mode it sounds like its maintaining a constant shutter speed. I'm waiting for the first rolls with the MA to check exposures but was wondering if the slow LED display is normal or indicates a problem with either the MA or the A-1. Also, If the MA is pushed for a prolonged sequence, the MA and the A-1 lock up, (mirror down, no exposure release, no film advance), sometimes with the aperture stopped down other times with the aperture returning to full. Resetting the trigger locks and/or the power switches did nothing, but reseating the A-1's battery brings everything back to normal. Its unlikely I'll ever need to shoot that prolonged of a sequence, but again was wondering if the lockup is indicative of a problem. Lastly, for today anyway, I also picked up a 300 TL for my T-90, and of course tried it on the A-1, but can only get Manual Flash mode @ 1/60 sec., on the LED display. Aperture ring was set to the "A" mark and tried starting with both Tv and Av camera modes. Normal or Problem? Thanks for the help
From jay (Wed May 31 09:32:28 2000 ):
i have an canon ae-1 program and the shutter is broken , how much to fix. thanks
From Gerry (Tue May 30 08:36:12 2000 ):
Terry makes some soune advice on shopping. I check in to eBay once in a while to keep up with the trading set, and I can see why sellers love it. The other day I saw a Canon Off Flash Cord Shoe 2 bid over fifty dollars, when it goes for $48.00 new from the B and H catalog(they will mail a catalog with both new and used items priced out). I clearly am missing something when buyers pay more than retail. Oh, I just want to add that http://photo.net/photo has a classifieds and a want to buy section with many who are willing to put a fair market value on their items and even negotiate a little. My best success has been in buying from a shop which specializes in used equipment on consignment. I like to paw the merchandise and know what the obvious defects look, sound and smell like. But-bottom line- my resolution for now is to Shoot More, Shop Less. EBay is built they say on a model of scarcity, where fofolks bid for scarce and desirable items. And that is not so of most photo accessories I think. Most of what we seek is not scarce,and sitting out there somewhere in someones photo store back room. GS
From Terry Carraway (Mon May 29 21:11:24 2000 ):
Jerry - Check the back messages on this board, the info is there. It is not easy on any A series except the A-1.
From Terry Carraway (Mon May 29 21:10:27 2000 ):
Canon FD Lenses and Accessories - All the Canon A series cameras accept all FD series lenses, both old FD (with chrome locking ring) or new FD (twist lock). Lenses and accessories are available from many sources, from local camera shops (not much selection, but sometimes some really nice things) to camera shows to flea markets/tag sales/garage sales to online vendors (like KEH and others) to eBay online auctions. Prices range from good to outrageous without any order. Typically online vendors are the most expensive, but offer a warranty. But things can go for very high amounts on eBay. Local shosp can have nice things at give away prices or have junk and very high prices. Shop around and know your market. I used various search engines to find as many online vendors that I could, and got prices for various items. Then I knew whether a price was good or not, and also how much to bid for an item on eBay without paying too much. Just about everything is available from caps to every lens (although the 150-600 L series zoom is VERY pricey) to all the little accesories that Canon made. Just keep looking.
From Alan (Wed Jun 7 08:09:48 2000 ):
I have a Canon Speedlight 188a with a broken foot. Does anyone know where I can find a kit to repair this flash??Thanks
From Terry Carraway (Wed Jun 7 02:46:55 2000 ):
MarK - How much money do you want to spend? I would suggest a Motor Drive MA. As to lenses, you need to figure out how far you are going to be from the action. Realise that long fast glass is not cheap. Typically fast lenses are used to separate the cars from the background. But they do cost. A 300mm f2.8 L series runs between $1500 and $3000 used depending on condition.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Jun 7 02:44:43 2000 ):
Roland - You may have the infamous Canon A series shutter "squeek". It is fairly easily repaired. Check back messages on this board for additional information.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Jun 7 02:43:50 2000 ):
Melanie - Canon FD telephoto lenses are not hard to find. I tend to recommend staying with Canon brand lenses. But telephoto covers a wide range of focal lengths and prices. Generally 85mm is the low end, and in Canon lenses it tops out at 1200mm. This site has a complete guide to Canon FD lenses. An 85mmm f1.8 Canon lens costs around $200. An 800mm L series lens costs more than a nice used car.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Jun 7 02:36:15 2000 ):
Malcolm - Canon did make a 39mm screw mount to FD adapter. You will be operating in full manual mode with stopped down metering though. I picked one up recently on eBay.
From jimmy (Wed Jun 7 01:02:26 2000 ):
I am looking to purchase an LC-1 Canon remote. Thanks
From MarK (Tue Jun 6 22:44:10 2000 ):
Hello Everyone, nice message-board keep it up: I'll be going to the Monza F1 Race next September and I wish to have some good photos of those damn fast cars, What lens/es would I need for my Wonderful A-1, I guess I'll need a fast long fast lens, and a winder... Any suggestions ?
From Roland (Tue Jun 6 17:32:23 2000 ):
I´am very proud, because I bought a Canon A-1, very nice with no scratches and demands. The seller told me, that the camera was never use in the last ten years. Now, the shutter makes a noice, like a smatch. Is this a great problem and can I fixed this? Many thanks from Roland / Germany.
From Melanie (Mon Jun 5 08:53:23 2000 ):
I have an AE-1 that I want to buy a telephoto lens for. How difficult will it be for me to find one?
From Malcolm (Mon Jun 5 05:47:14 2000 ):
Hi just wondering if anyone knows of a converter from screw mount to FD. I have a 400mm whiuch i would like to use on both my cameras.

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