Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 1151-1200 |

From Mike Wilde (Sun Aug 8 19:45:43 1999 ):
According to the link in preface of the A1 site it is indeed possible to attach a A2 winder to a F1N body, if this is so, has anyone tried it and were there any harmful side effects, shutter jams or curtain wrinkles etc best wishes Mike
From Maintainer (Sun Aug 8 15:17:19 1999 ):
New section for discussion on lenses, bookmark for future reference: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/lenses/optic.msql
From wesley (Sat Aug 7 22:42:58 1999 ):
I bought a used Canon AT-1 that didn't work, and because I have bought all of my single reflex cameras broken and have repaired all of them over the past 35 years, I wasn't concerned. This camera, I had found had numerouos problems. For one the shutter curtain (cloth)was stuck on the bottom, which was repaired within minutes. However the shutter speed selector which is connect from the control head to a spring loaded device deep in the body of the camera, is connected through a series of small plastic pullies, by nylon thread (?), and it is torn. Before I continue disassembling this camera (which I enjoy and can do), I would prefer to have a blow-up of the mechanical layout this camera. Does anyone have a schematic and detailed drawing of such a layout? Or does anyone have a source for such layouts? Thanks in advance. Wesley Cichosz
From Kai Pin (Fri Aug 6 04:19:25 1999 ):
TO TOM TELICZAN: The answers to your queries are: There are no adapters made for smaller diameter filters to be used on larger diameter lenses, only adapters for larger-to-smaller diameters are available, for example, 55mm to 52mm or 52mm to 48mm. Even if you managed to find your own way of using 48mm-type of accessories for 52mm-type of products, vignetting (darkening) will occur at the edges of the four corners of the 24x36mm frame. There is an adapter that allows Pentax-K bayonet mount lenses to be used on Canon's manual focus SLR cameras but I don't know of any adapter that allows for the use of screw-in type of Pentax lenses. The AE-1 Program's AE modes can only be utilized with Canon FD lenses or any FD-fit of independant makers' lenses.
From Tom Teliczan (Thu Aug 5 06:17:10 1999 ):
Hello from Hawaii. I have a really old Pentax purchased in '68 & an AE-1 Program. The Pentax, my first SLR & true love, has died (mirror sticks in up position), & i was wondering if: a. The Pentax has a 48mm lens, the AE-1 52mm. Is there an adapter out that will allow use of the smaller filters w/the 52mm lens? Will the smaller filter size have any effect on photos? b. Is there an adapter made that will allow use of the Pentax screw-in lenses w/the AE-1 Program body? If so, can the AE-1 still be used in the Program Mode? Thank you for any help you can give me on the above! v/r t.
From Gerry (Mon Aug 2 08:27:00 1999 ):
An interesting historical evolution in Canon Classics was the introduction of exposure automation after the long match needle era of the FT series and the basic F-1. Canon was a follower of shutter priority automation as a principle. As a mechanical process that kind of aperture selection is harder to design with tighter tolerances than aperture priority, which was the Nikon approach. Even the groundbreaking Canon EF hybrid model (not yet in this Classic Canon series,but hopefully one day) used shutter priority "trapped needle" automation. This trapped needle design was successful in the popular Canonet models. Battery was limited to controlling the meter movement. Canon had a shutter speed automation, mechanically controlled in an accessory prism for the F-1, but it was a cumbersome piece of equipment). The groundbreaking AE-1 offered shutter priority automation, using battery electronics for all speeds. The A-1 breakthrough was its multimode,take your pick approach. Shutter priority,or aperture priority. Canon calls them Tv or Time Value and Av or Aperture Value. Which is "better" is a debatable thing. A lot depends on what you get used to. A photo blurred by a slow shutter speed seems to be more of a loss than one that is a little soft in depth of focus. Most modern cameras, such as the Konica Hexar and the automated prisms made for medium format cameras use aperture priority for reasons of engineering simplicity.
From Gerry (Fri Jul 30 07:16:33 1999 ):
Some rambling thoughts on the A-1.The Canon A-1 is still an excellent camera for FD use. With the Winder A2 it makes a complete package with modest weight. The A-1 instruction book, possibly Canon's best literary effort, is a model of completeness and accuracy. My biggest inconvenience in using A-1 is trying to see the small frame counter, especially when the camera is sitting on a tripod at eye level. The 6 volt silver oxide battery seems to last forever. I didn't care much for the standard micriprism/rangefinder and replaced mine years ago with a microprism one. ( The T90 combination screen seems to have been greatly improved. I like it) Used A-1's in really mint condition are hard to run across. Typically I see the hard to avoid brassing on the corners. The T-90 on/off switch is a pleasure to use compared to the little tab on the right deck of the A-1. Also, the setting for ISO takes some delicate fingerwork. The centerweighted metering is reliable and gives good results if you know how to use it. ( The oddball 'top weighted metering' in the EF model was a poor experiment in an otherwise interesting camera. The durability of the camera and the bright finder,plus availability of power cells, make it a wonderful backup for a T90. It can still be found for good price in the used market. A very advanced machine, and look forward to more user discussion here.
From Jack (Thu Jul 29 02:46:46 1999 ):
Congratulations on providing this Message Board forum. This is a great service for everyone to share experiences and tips on the Canon A series cameras. I began with an A1 in 1983 and then acquired another A1 and associated lenses. Before that, I used an old Mamyia 1000DTL and there is no comparison. Recently, I acquired a T90 because of the spot metering but the A1 is a mainstay, with a lot of success. Again congratulations and I'm sure that many of us will be visiting here frequently to leave comments and helpful tips to others.
From Arno Schiebler (Wed Jul 28 05:30:38 1999 ):
Congratulatíons from Germany! Another great site for canon users. I frequently visit the T90 site. My first SLR was an AE1P which I bought new in 1983. Great camera, I took it (almost) everywhere and never had any problems. I noticed that the shutter seems to make more noise lately. (I don´t use it very often since I bought a T90 2 years ago) Do I have to take any precaucions to keep it working in the future? Like lubrication or something? Thank you for any response. Arno.
From Kai Pin (Sat Jul 17 05:31:12 1999 ):
TO ALL CANON A-Series USERS: Feel free to drop in and ask any question pertaining to your particular model and I will try my best to answer them. Other A-series owners are welcome to join in and help provide their own experiences of what the A-Series models can or cannot do. Thank you.
From Richard Evans (Sat Aug 14 15:55:13 1999 ):
Mario, Try John Craig Camera in Connecticut, USA at: http://www.craigcamera.com Richard
From Mario Julio (Sat Aug 14 09:50:35 1999 ):
I bought some time ago an excellent A1, but I don't have the instruction manual. Does anyone know if there's a site on the web with an A1 online manual? Please e-mail me. Thanks in advance. Mario.
From Kai Pin (Sat Aug 14 01:14:36 1999 ):
FOR RICHARD EVANS: Focusing screens for the A-1 camera can only be changed by a Canon Service Center but right now I am not sure whether any of the Canon centers worldwide still has such screens available upon request by users. The A-1 uses its own screens specially-made for it. FOR JONAH FRIEDMAN: Retailers, both mail-orders and e-commerce (Internet) usually list whether such lenses (if independent makes) are FD-fit or otherwise. Original Canon FD lenses will fit and work with your AE-1 and retaining all its features. FOR RON POPPE: You can find a listing for a used Canon Motor Drive MA at the world's largest used dealer at http://www.keh.com/ Good Luck!
From Ron Poppe (Thu Aug 12 12:55:53 1999 ):
I own a cannon AE-1 program camera and I am looking for a motor drive MA with cannon mount.Any one out there wishing to sell this item please contact me at through this email. Please include price. Thank you. Ron.
From Jonah Friedman (Thu Aug 12 11:03:01 1999 ):
I own an AE-1 camera, and it works great, but I need a zoom lens for it. I've seen tons of places on the internet that offer zoom lenses, but I don't know if they will mount onto my camera. Is there any way to tell from the name of the product if it fits the canon a- series? Or do I need to go to a store? I'd appreciate any help you could give.
From Richard Evans (Thu Aug 12 10:10:54 1999 ):
In reference to Gerry's "rambling thoughts" about the Canon A1, I recently bought twoA1's on ebay to upgrade from my "old but sweetheart FTb QL's". They are great and I really enjoy using them. However, I also do not like the "stock" focusing screen (split image) and would like to change to a microprism (I think this is what it's called - like my Ftb). Will the F1, EF, etc screens work on an A1 or do they have their own specific models? Do they have to be installed by a certified repair person? Does anyone know where I might find these screens.
From Kai Pin (Wed Aug 11 05:47:08 1999 ):
FOR BRENT: With the exception of the T90, all of Canon's A-series and T-series as well as the New F-1, will automatically set their X-sync with any A-series, T-series (except 300TL) and G-series (533G & 577G) of Canon Speedlites. The AE-1 Program will automatically reverts to Program Flash AE the moment the pilot lamp of your Speedlite 244T is ready. FOR THOMAS: The AE-1 Program has been discontinued from production since 1985 - it is rare to find an unused, leftover (and new) unit of this camera anywhere in the world except the Shinjuku district in Tokyo, Japan. Alternatively, you can buy via e-commerce or mail-order from either one of these USA dealers: KEH Camera Broker at http://www.keh.com/ AND B&H Photo-Video at http://www.bhphoto.com/ FOR DAVE: 6-volt silver oxide can be erratic sometimes. Maybe you should switch over to a 6-volt (4LR44) alkaline-manganese which is the same size as the silver-oxide version and is a viable alternative for any A-series and F-series Canon cameras.
From Thomas (Mon Aug 9 22:16:51 1999 ):
I was wondering if anyone knew where to buy a new AE-1 Program Canon Camera. My camera broke.. Beyond repair. But I still have all the attatachments under the sun for it. But I can not find one. I would be interested in knowing of any places to buy just the camera. Please email me. At Ggauger@webtv.net Thanks.
From Dave (Mon Aug 9 21:59:28 1999 ):
After reading a posting here from Gerry re. longevity of Canon A1 silver oxide batteries, I was wondering why my A1 seems to eat batteries. If I do not switch it off immediately after using it, the battery is gone in a few days. I have had the camera since new, and it started this about 10 years ago. I took it in for repairs and it seemed to get better for a while only. Any advice or similar experiences?
From Brent (Mon Aug 9 03:54:05 1999 ):
I have a Canon Speedlite 244T (made for the T-50, which I also have). I believe that the 244T will synch with the AE-1P if I set the shutter at 1/60". Is this true? /Brent
From John Baker (Sun Aug 22 06:43:55 1999 ):
My AE-1 Camera Case (circa 1978) has deteriorated, with the outside coating of leather or vinyl hardening and flaking off. I'd like to replace it, but if Canon stopped making these a long time ago, and the deterioration is due to the passage of time, I fear that I'd buy myself a second "case" of the same problem, even if I found one. Any suggestions?
From Teja (Sat Aug 21 01:18:00 1999 ):
To whom it may concern:
I would like to buy a lens for a friend and would like to know if the Canon AE-1 only takes the FD type lenses and not the FL?
Thank you for your time and have a nice day,
Teja
From beltran lara (Fri Aug 20 12:21:34 1999 ):
hi again,(beltran lara from costa rica),thancks your a-1 site its great as all the others. but wile i was reading it i realice that my a-1 has a problem, first seem suspicious to me that a battery last about 10 rolls in it, now i figure why, the LED dysplay in the viewfinder its always present (unless it is turned off whith the switch)it wont go neither pushing half way the shutter or the preview switch, so what im doing at the time is turning on and of that camera switch like crazy. any clue of what could cause this problem and how can i fix it, tacking in count that i went the canon store here in costa rica and the guy told me that they dont look fd cameras cause there arent "parts" for then any where (this is true?) thancks in advance,and keep fogiving my english Beltranlara@hotmail.com
From FY (Fri Aug 20 05:24:45 1999 ):
Thank to this web site. I live in California USA. I own a A-1 but I lost my manual long time ago during moving. Fortunately I found this site and got all the info I need. More than that, I learn a lot of more than from instruction manual. Thank you ALL.
From Kai Pin (Thu Aug 19 14:22:41 1999 ):
TO SHAHID NAQVI: Personally, I have never used the AE-1 camera before but I think generally, its behaviour should be the same as its successor, the AE-1 Program, which I have. The AE-1 Program, being a Shutter-priority AE (and Programmed AE) SLR, was designed to meter exposure value based on the shutter speed selected, even in Manual Exposure mode. Turning the aperture ring either way will not affect the camera's exposure reading. Try and see whether this is true with your AE-1 camera. All New FD lenses (all black finish - those without the chrome mount ring) have a mechanical safety design that close down the aperture blades to f/5.6 whenever the lens is removed from the camera. This is normal. To check whether the aperture blades of your lens is working when mounted on the camera, perform this test: engaged the Stopped-down metering lever (located on the lower left bottom on the front) by pushing it in until it clicks - make sure the the aperture ring is not set to the "A" mark. Once you do so, turn the aperture ring from maximum to the minimum settings and look through the lens via the front element to see whether the blades are opening and closing. Remember to disengage the Stopped-down lever after performing this self-check or your exposures will be incorrect.
From Shahid Naqvi (Thu Aug 19 10:13:09 1999 ):
I have an Canon AE-1. It seems that I when I try to change the aperture setting, the aperture size does not seem to change. I concluded this from the fact that my exposure meter reading does not change when I change the aperture setting. I pulled the lens off. Now I can see the aperture, but still I can't change it's size. Could this be a mechanical fault with the lens, or is it something else. I would appreciate any help. -Shahid Naqvi - Chicago, IL USA
From Erik-Jan Stroetinga (Mon Aug 16 02:42:01 1999 ):
See: http://crollinger.webjump.com/a1index.htm for instruction manual for A1 Regards Erik-Jan
From Kai Pin (Mon Aug 16 00:47:30 1999 ):
ATTN MARIO JULIO, BELTRAN LARA and HERVE&: The online instruction manual for the Canon A-1 is currently being scanned for uploading in the A-1 site. It should be up very soon - another two more weeks or earlier. REGARDING HERVE&'s QUERY, the two buttons on the A-1 are the AE Lock (top) and exposure preview (bottom) buttons. The preview button was designed to activate the A-1's viewfinder information without tripping the shutter (since some people are prone to do that when using the shutter button to read the info). The AE Lock button on the A-1 was less advanced than the one found on the AE-1 Program. To lock the metered exposure on the A-1, the user has to keep the AE Lock button pressed all the time till the shutter is released whereas on the AE-1 Program, the user only needs to press the AE Lock button once and the shutter button will take over the memorized setting, provided the shutter button is maintained at the halfway mark until it is released.
From Herve& (Sun Aug 15 17:35:08 1999 ):
Hi, I need some explanation about the twice buttons on the right of the A1, near the lense mount. Can you help me to know Thank you
From beltran lara (Sun Aug 15 01:40:03 1999 ):
Hi,im from Costa rica i have a a-1,just love it, i was wondering where i can get de instruction manual or some info. congratulations on this site, its great, just need more stuf about the a1. thacks and forgive my english..
From Jérôme Tanguay (Tue Aug 31 08:25:26 1999 ):
Hi there folks! well i am glad to see i am not the only owner of old an old Canon SLR. i recently aquired an AT-1 model, but no manual! would anybody know how to get one? i seem to be experiencing problems finding one... even from Canon themselves. thanks to all, and happy artistic photographing! Montréal Canada.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Aug 30 23:22:00 1999 ):
For everyone, a bunch of things at once. - There are step down rings made as well as step up rings for filters. The problem is you may have some vignetting (darkening at teh corners) of shots with the smaller filter. - As to screens, Beattie Bright Screen makes and installs various screen for A-1s as well as others. This will also give you the advantage of a later laser screen that is much brighter. - As to the noisy shutter, that sounds like the infamous A series shutter squeek. It needs lubrications, but it is best sent to a repair shop since the part needing the lubrication not easy to get to. You do need to have it repaired or it will cause serious damage. - As to flash, for macro photography (close up flowers) the Macro Lite ML-1 works well. For more normal flash work any of the A or T series flashes (except the 300TL) will work fairly well with any A series camera. Of course best are the matched ones (199A with A-1, 188A with AE-1P, etc). There is no one camera (none handle type) flash with will light up the alter from 15 rows back, most serious handle mount flashes won't either. And if they did, they would burn the hair off the people in row 14. :) Remember that light follows as the inverse square, double the distance requires 4 times as much power. So a flash that works at 10 feet, would require 4 times the power to work at 20, 4 MORE times teh power for 40 feet, etc. - Yes, FL lenses will work on an A-series camera, but only in stopped down metering mode. It is better to stick with FD lenses. - As to the aperature/metering question, the meter reading doesn't change as it is telling you what aperature to use at the set shutter speed. You can set whatever you want for various effects. Unless you use the DOF preview, all FD lenses on all stay wide open until you trip the shutter, then they stop down for the shot. - For background I have owned and used an A-1 with 199A and MA motordrive since 1981. I have recently switched to mainly using T90s, but will NOT get rid of my A-1, so don't ask. :)
From kaan hansoy (Fri Aug 27 17:47:54 1999 ):
congratulations for this message board. I have an At-1 since 1978. I anjoyed a lot taking pictures with it. But several years ago i made a mistake, i tried to clean the focussing screen. Now it is much worse than before as the dirt is now spread around. Do you have an idea about how to remove the screen, or where to find the part to replace. Thanks.
From Alyssa (Thu Aug 26 04:16:42 1999 ):
I, like Mr. Richard "Wildflowers" Evans, am interested in purchasing a flash for my husband's A-1, but don't know the first thing about flash units. One store recommended an Achiever, but I've never heard of the brand. I see the German Metz brand is recommended. I'm looking for something that will capture the bride and groom up at the front of the church when I'm sitting in say the 15th pew back, but I don't want one of those long-arm flashes. Is the Metz still the best recommendation?
From Curious (Wed Aug 25 20:06:41 1999 ):
I wonder if anyone can tell me if the AE Program from Canon will work with the 50mm F1.2 lens? The TTL metering system only displays 1.4 or a flashing 1 in the viewfinder. Maybe F1.4 is the largest aperture on this camera?
From Poi Boy (Wed Aug 25 17:13:19 1999 ):
My AE-1 has frozen up. It started happening every so often, but now it is completely inoperable. Is this something I can repair myself; if not, where can I send it someplace reliable to be repaired? Any one know the cost that may be associated with this? Otherwise, I'm interested in purchasing an AE-1 or A-1 Body only. Or, as an alternative, I have a number of peripherals that I could sell: 35-80 Zoom, 50-210 Zoom, Auto Winder, etc.
From beltran lara (Wed Aug 25 03:19:53 1999 ):
i cant believe miklos has more than 15 years with one battery and i have to change the one in my a-1 every month..
From Miklos de Rijk (Wed Aug 25 02:55:26 1999 ):
I've had my AE-1P since 82, and I've NEVER changed the battery, neither has it leaked....and it isn't a duracell either ;)
From Erik-Jan Stroetinga (Mon Aug 23 04:46:40 1999 ):
Concerning a flash for your A1 (or F1new). I use now since 8 years a German made Metz CT45 + bouncing screen. It uses a SCA 310 adapter which makes it fully compatible with the A1 (F1 and other A series)and your A1 will work it as with the orignal Canon Speedlite. I bought mine secondhand (as all my Canon equipment) and find it works beautiful for general photography as close-up or even Macro work. Regards Erik-Jan (The Netherlands Europe)
From Richard Evans (Sun Aug 22 14:24:24 1999 ):
I would like some advise concerning a flash unit for my Canon A1. I shoot wildlfowers as a hobby, but have not used flash. I would like to get into using flash to equalize those common lighting problems with this type of phottgraphy. I confess that I am totally ignorant on where to even start my selection process, i.e unit power, guide #'s, tilt capability, aperture choices, Canon Speedlite (199A, 277T, 533G??) , third party as Vivitar, Sunpack, etc. HELP!
From Terry Carraway (Tue Sep 7 22:09:43 1999 ):
To fix the shutter squeek you need to lube a brass rod in th eback corner of the mirror box. The rod is actually part of the mirror dampening system. Yes, if you do not fix it, eventually the shutter (or I guess actually the mirror) will stick. It is supposed to be not hard to do, once you figure out where to put the lube. That is the hard part. I have read suggestions to get a broken camera and remove the mirror box to see where the parts are. I would not do this to a working camera as you can end up with a totally broken one. There are people who repair these for about $45US, I paid a bit more, but got a full CLA on my A-1 from Strauss in Washington, DC. As to the exact lube, I am not sure what to use.
From Kai Pin (Tue Sep 7 21:55:42 1999 ):
ATTN MIKKO: 6-volt batteries that are similar in shape to the silver oxide battery (Type 544) your camera is using can be used. The alkaline version is also known as Type A544 or 4LR44 battery. These numbers are the code just like Type AA is used for 1.5V penlight batteries.
From Mikko (Mon Sep 6 23:39:15 1999 ):
Attention AT-1 owners (or anyone)! I have a question for you. I have a sticker in my cameras battery door that says "silver oxcide batterys only" (or something). Does that mean i can't use alkaline batterys? Why (if so) ?
From Kai Pin (Mon Sep 6 21:45:28 1999 ):
TO JEROME TANGUAY & ARNO SCHIEBLER: The Canon AT-1's operations is the same as the AE-1, minus the Shutter-priority AE feature. In order to know how to operate the two cameras, click the AE-1 section located at the bottom of this page. Once you enter the site, click CAMERA OPERATIONS - this is the online instruction manual. FOR KAAN HANSOY: The AT-1 uses the same focusing screen as the AE-1 but finding a replacement for it nowadays can be difficult. The screen can only be changed at a service facility, if you manage to track a replacement version, that's it. FOR BOB HUFF: Don't worry, the Canon AE-1P's CPU has no time data, so no problem with being Y2K-compliant. however, one of the A-series accessory, Data Back A, has numerals up to the year 1987 only.
From Bob Huff (Sun Sep 5 12:29:07 1999 ):
Strange as this sounds to me, but is the CPU on board the AE-1 Program going to survive Y2K?????
From Nick (Sun Sep 5 11:39:24 1999 ):
Just like Arno, I have an AE-1P with "Shutter Screech". I used to have an A-1 that was just starting to develop it though, I was told it is expensive to repair. The rumor I heard was that the shutter mechanicals were not properly lubed at the factory and at some point the shutter just quits totally. Is this true? Is it even worth having my AE1-P fixed? My AT-1 hasn't missed a lick in the 10 years I've owned it and it's over 20 years old. Any help would be more than appreciated.
From Dani Weston (Sat Sep 4 06:21:33 1999 ):
I am looking for a manual for my Canon AE-1 and I can't seem to find no matter where I look. If you know of somewhere or of someone that has one that I can have a copy of I would be eternally greatful. Thank- you. Dani Weston
From arno schiebler (Sat Sep 4 02:07:26 1999 ):
Hello, my AE1P which I have been using since new in 83 develops the so called "shutter-squeak". I think I will be able to fix it myself (a personal challenge...). Can anybody explain what parts have to be lubricated and -important- what lube do I have to use? Also, do the ball-bearings in FD-lenses need lubrication, too? Any answers are greatly appreciated, as I want to keep the AE1P as a back-up for my T90. Thank you! arno.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Sep 3 22:08:16 1999 ):
Ernest, There are many parts still around, but they are in the hands of repair shops. Most shops will not sell you parts, but will fix your camera with parts from their stock. If a particular repair shop can't fix it, try another shop.
From Ernest (Fri Sep 3 10:44:01 1999 ):
can anyone tell me if repair parts are available for the AE-1 and if so where?

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