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Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

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Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

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  1. From travis (Mon Jan 22 10:00:08 2001 ):
    i have an ae-1 program and i also have a zoom lense but don't know much about zoom lense and would like to know where to find info on old lenses. or if anyone has a mc auto promaster zoom give me a hit back so i can figure out at least what the model is called


  2. From Matt (Sun Jan 21 05:07:24 2001 ):
    I have an old AL-1 that I just pulled off the shelf. It's my girlfriend's camera and she hasn't used it for quite some time. My problem is, that everything seems to work okay except the shutter release sticks sometimes. Sometimes it works after I remove and reattach the lens, sometimes after I push the rewind release button. But neither one is a consistant solution. ANy ideas?


  3. From Winston (Sat Jan 20 23:48:32 2001 ):
    Mike: The AE-1P should inform you that the flash is charged and ready. (Lighting symbol) It will set shutter speed at 1/60 and aperture to whatever you have the flash set on, but it does not give you correct distance, when you have focused your subject you can look at the lens distance scale to see if the distance is with-in the flash range. Good luck


  4. From Mike L (Sat Jan 20 09:50:44 2001 ):
    Revently aquired a SpeedLight 188A for my AE-1 Program. The flash will charge and flash when the shutter is depressed, but the "Flash Charged Indicator" cannot be seen in the view finder both when the flash is charged, and after the shutter is depressed indicating corect distance. What's up with that.


  5. From Winston (Sat Jan 20 05:45:31 2001 ):
    Tom: You have to use a shutter speed of 1/60 or longer. Meter the subject and useing an aperture opening that is one stop smaller than the flash needs, use this for starters, depending on how much fill you need. Open up aperture for more fill close down aperture for less fill, The shutter speed has to be at 1/60 or longer or the flash will NOT exposure the whole frame. It would help if you have a sync. cord to use the flash off camera, (Flash closer to subject = more fill, flash further away from subject less fill) Some of the newer cameras have faster flash sync speed and that would make your fill flash a lot easier. I hope you can understand the above as I am no writer. Give it a try and let us hear from you, Good luck


  6. From Tom (Sat Jan 20 02:55:58 2001 ):
    I have a Canon A1 and a speedlight 188a...is there any way for me to do fill flash?


  7. From Winston (Fri Jan 19 09:09:14 2001 ):
    Aaron: You said that you are still using the camera in its present state, are you using it in manual mode or auto? If auto, are the exposures correct? I would be surprise if they are. It sounds like the camera has an electrical short and should be checked out. Good luck.


  8. From Aaron Packard (Fri Jan 19 04:57:45 2001 ):
    I have an AE-1 that used to belong to my brother about 15 years ago. I just recently pulled it off the shelf and started using it. Everything worked fine until yesterday, when I noticed that the red manual and low-light warning lights were on. Not flashing, but steady. I had of course seen them flashing before, in appropriate circumstances, but never just on. Now, the camera still works the same as it did before. The performance has not been affected, I'm just worried that this may be a symptom of something wrong that will be worse later, also that it is draining my battery. At present I am continuing to use the camera, taking the battery out when I am not actually shooting. Anyone have any idea what's wrong?


  9. From Yogi Saxena (Fri Jan 19 00:28:40 2001 ):
    I have a Canon A-1 Camera. I have a SPEEDLITE 199A that does not work anymore. I am looking for a SPEEDLITE 155A or 199A, used. Should anyone one know of or have a working 155A or 199A available for sale, please contact me a ysaxena@att.com.


  10. From Winston (Thu Jan 18 21:35:41 2001 ):
    Roniq: The entire Canon FD lenses has a built-in heater to stop the cameras from freezing up. I live in Florida so I am able to use none Canon lenses at all times with out any problem, However we do have a serous problem in Florida, We don t know how to punch a hole in a piece of paper! !!! HELP!!! I would say you are just unlucky with the other lenses but they do go bad from time to time even the Canon lens. Are the 2 lenses made by the same manufacture? A friend of mine who is a camera mechanic said he gets more off brand FD lenses in for repair than he does the Canon Lenses, he thinks that the Canon FD lenses are of a better quality in every way. I think you knew that any way. Good luck.

  11. From Irwin (Wed Jan 24 03:43:41 2001 ):
    Eddie, you are talking about the original F1, an all manual camera, no exposure automation. It goes used for about the same as the A-1 from what I can see. I had one. Nice,beatifully built, but it is really old technology. The A-1 is well built, has exposure automation and has light weight winders. If these items are of valuable to you, you will quickly adapt to the A-1. I know its hard to get used to a new camera. I think of it like losing a family pet. In this case the F-1 to A-1 is like a lab to a golden. Similar but "different," if that makes sense. Good luck and don't put off those flu shots. Irwin Schmendrick


  12. From David Zambrana (Wed Jan 24 03:15:42 2001 ):
    I have acquired a Canon AE-1 along with a Canon Motor Drive MA. I was told they are to be attached together and the website also says the same. I am having difficulty attaching the two items due to the fact that the Motor Drive has two positioning pins and the AE-1 only has one positioning hole. How do I correct this problem?


  13. From Ed Hopper (Wed Jan 24 03:12:22 2001 ):
    I recently lost my trusted F1 after over 20 years. I need to replace it but since the cost of F1s are a bit high I was thinking of looking for a A1. This would enable to still use the two FD lenses I have. The F1 was such a durable and reliable camera. I am looking for info and advise on the F1 vs the A1. (there are some who say I am a bit mad for not wanting to upgrade to a newer auto camera.) Thanks.


  14. From Ruckcumbine (Tue Jan 23 20:45:13 2001 ):
    Matt, that s no way to use that camera have it repaired, They are places here in NY that will repair it, if you have an extra arm and a leg. Put it back on the shelf where it belongs and get an A-1. Ruckcumbine


  15. From Ruckcumbine (Tue Jan 23 20:33:00 2001 ):
    Mark, That button is the back light button, when you are shooting into the light you press that button and it opens up the aperture 1 * to 2 f stops more. Example you are taking a photo of a person with the sun behind the person you cold use the back light button to lighten up the person and let the back ground over expose. What EOS and lens do you use.I like this message board, ruckcumbine


  16. From mark hahn (Tue Jan 23 15:50:43 2001 ):
    Hi, I am really an EOS user, but was just given a nice AE-1P and want to try using it. I can't figure out one of the buttons. Above the silver ringed exposure preview button there is a more recessed button, what does that do? If I push it I get what seems to be a momentary flash of the exposure preview and then nothing... I'm sure it is actually there to do something. Appreciate all help. Email me directly. thanks, mark


  17. From Irwin (Tue Jan 23 13:21:10 2001 ):
    Krish, I personally use a Vivitar 285HV with the A-1. You wont lose much functionality at all. And its still a good unit and at a cheap price for its features. Shooting the sun, oh boy. I don't know how you focus on the sun,even with a filter. But if the moon focuses for you, the sun ought to, no? Does the moon come in clear and can you see the Apollo rubbish and stuff in Mare Tranquility? This one calls for a book on astrophotography I think. My wildarse guess is you maybe need a different kind of mylar filter up front to sharpen the image. But this is more for the astronomer page than this A page, huh. No plain reason why an AE-1P can't focus through any scope, but I could be wrong.I was once or twice back in my teens. Regards, Irwin


  18. From Syd (Tue Jan 23 05:12:09 2001 ):
    Kirby: Further to your message on Jan 9, the code in the film chamber on my A-1 is :- Inverted Greek capital Delta 542F. The fact that F is present, ruins one of my theories that all the letters may be Greek. What it all means is a mystery to me.


  19. From Bill Froendt (Tue Jan 23 00:52:09 2001 ):
    I am new to the AE1P and would like to know how it works for astrophotography. I have a t-ring and adapter as well as a reflector type telescope. I tried to shoot the Sun and could not get a clear picture through the eyepiece of the camera.


  20. From Krish (Mon Jan 22 23:04:22 2001 ):
    Hello, I just bought an used A-1, good speedlights are not available here now. Could you please suggest a 3rd party(sunpac/Vivitar etc) Flash which will give the same functionality of a Canon speed light. Thanks

  21. From Bill (Fri Jan 26 09:02:34 2001 ):
    Ruckcumbine: My wife doesn t fit all the qualities you require for your dates, but she has a Canon A-1+ 50mm f1.8 lens, that should make up for the short blond hair and 36-24-36. But she does have long black curly teeth. Would you date her PLEASE?? I will even supply the film


  22. From Winston (Thu Jan 25 23:12:18 2001 ):
    Ruckcumbine: I am sorry that I miss spell your name, No offence was intended, But if you look back at my posting it would become clear to you that I can t spell. I see lots of simple but good questions on this board from people who are just starting photography, and they remind me of when I first started and was asking some of those same questions. So I try to answer them to the best of my ability and I try to reply ASAP. They are lots of experts on this board, but I don t think they log on too frequently or they just want to leave the replies to some one else. As I have seen many easy questions go unanswered, so whenever I log on I try to do a reply and this makes me look like I am hogging the board with my bad spelling. BTW I don t class myself as one of the experts I am here to learn a bit myself, as all my 35mm cameras are Canon.


  23. From Ruckcumbine (Thu Jan 25 04:06:54 2001 ):
    Winston Krish, 1, My name is Ruckcumbine 2, I don t date cameras, I prefer to date nice looking women 36-24-36 with short blond hair and long black curly teeth. However I did check all my Canons using Syd's Greek method and they appear to be correct, even though I had no Greek letters. but who cares? They are all old cameras if they are A series, Right? Krish, The lens have to be Canon FD mount.


  24. From Krish (Wed Jan 24 22:46:11 2001 ):
    Hello, Is Tamaron 28mm 2.5 lens compatable with A-1, I mean will it work in the program mode? is it safe to use 3rd party lenses?? Hows the performence of this optics... Thanks


  25. From Winston (Wed Jan 24 21:41:48 2001 ):
    Ruckcubine: Do you know how to date the Canon cameras?


  26. From Winston (Wed Jan 24 21:29:30 2001 ):
    David: Syd and Kirby, are correct the Canon motor MA will not work on an AE-1, Would you like to sell the motor drive? If the price is right I would be interested


  27. From Ruckcumbine (Wed Jan 24 21:13:02 2001 ):
    Rcik, You are doing good for a new comer, That is exactly the way, as you described it, If you left the lens on the auto setting it would be classed as auto, if you manually set the aperture to f 8 that would be classed as manual, any of the above would give the correct exposure. Ruckcumbine


  28. From Rick (Wed Jan 24 13:13:29 2001 ):
    I recently purchaced an AE-1, so far Ive used it only in Auto mode, if I want to shoot at f8 manually do I have to adjust the shutter dial until the meter needle is lined up with/or close to the f8 on the veiwfinder scale to get the right exposure? Very new at this..thanks for any replies.


  29. From Syd Croft (Wed Jan 24 09:02:27 2001 ):
    David Zambrana (Wed Jan 24): The short answer is you don t! The Canon Motor Drive MA cannot be used on the AE-1 and in my opinion anyone who tells you otherwise is misguided. The fact that the two will not fit together is a safeguard, presumably because some component in the AE-1 is not strong enough to take the loads imposed by the MA. On the other hand, Power Winders A and A2 will fit the AE-1, but they don t have high-speed settings that move the film at 5 frames a second.


  30. From Kirby Chilton (Wed Jan 24 08:10:42 2001 ):
    David
    The motor drive MA will NOT fit on an AE-1. It will, however, fit on an AE-1 Program. Sorry.
    Kirby

  31. From Winston (Sun Jan 28 23:14:45 2001 ):
    Ryan: I have paid from $20.00 to $85.00 for AE-1P s (some with lens) most with some kind of problems. I have them serviced, fixed, and working as they should, then sells them for $78.00 up to $150.00 (Body only) depending on their condition and the market, I used to sell them on eBay with out a reserve, But now I have a reserve of $99.00. I have seen AE-1P s + 50mm f1.8 sells for over $250.00. What Terry said is true! But it s still good to have some idea of what s the going price is, Who knows you may have gotten a real deal and you may want to go back for more. If you didn t you can still enjoy the camera and still learn from this experience. In the end any thing is worth what ever the buyer is willing to pay, When ever I pay too much for an item I say, the more it cost the more it s worth.


  32. From Winston (Sun Jan 28 21:54:04 2001 ):
    JJohn: What is wrong with the upgraded battery door latch you now have? 98% of all the AL-1 owners have the super upgraded TAPE latch. I like Kirby s idea! Winder A and the repair shop metal clip. You could fabricate a new latch for the door too. My friend Bill fabricate them out of brass cost $30.00, compare that to the cost of an Winder A and the winder is looking to be a very good deal, Yes the winder A is a good idea, It s a good thing I thought of that.


  33. From Irwin Schmendrick (Sun Jan 28 11:20:40 2001 ):
    Now let's be fair to Ryan. Valuating a camera is at least as useful as deciding when it was manufactured. Ryan, if, god forbid, your camera is ripped off and you submit a claim to State Farm, what are you going to claim. Replacement value, natch. And the smart money says you need to look at used camera ads for the AE-1P with that plain Jane lens you bought. I guess maybe a hundred fifty tops. There is a camera blue book in the library. Check out McKeown's Price Guide. It usually comes out lower than market value. So add a few bucks. Hey, no harm in asking. Stay well, do good work, and write to Mom once in a while. Regards, Irwin S.


  34. From Kirby Chilton (Sun Jan 28 09:04:11 2001 ):
    JJohn,
    A camera repair shop near me puts a small metal clip under one of the screws near the open side of the battery door to hold it closed. I just put an A winder on mine to hold the door shut.
    Kirby


  35. From JJohn (Sat Jan 27 13:38:35 2001 ):
    Does anyone know where I might be able to get a battery cover repaired on my Canon A-L? My cover broke many years ago and I am holding it together with tape. ANy help or sugestions would be appreciated.


  36. From Terry Carraway (Sat Jan 27 08:28:37 2001 ):
    Ryan - It must be worth what you paid for it, or you wouldn't have bought it. If we tell you it is worth next to nothing, it will only make you feel bad. And if we tell you it is worth a lot, it won't work any better or take any better pictures. Use it, enjoy it.


  37. From Terry Carraway (Sat Jan 27 08:26:55 2001 ):
    Krish - I do not know that exact lens. Tamron made/makes lenses that fit many different makes. They make the same focal length/aperture lenses to fit different makes and models. The lens you mention may be made for Canon FD cameras (which is what all A series cameras are) or no. Take the lens and one of your Canon lenses and compare the camera end. It should be pretty obvious whether it will fit or not. Also Tamron made/makes lenses with a mount they call Adaptall. This means all the lenses are the same, but they make different mount adapters for them. So you can buy one lens and use it on different makes of camera, but will all the automation. WRT third party lenses, in general, for Canon FD, they are not as good as the Canon lenses. Canon did make some not so great FD lenses, and some third party lenses, like the early Vivitar Series 1, are pretty good, but overall, I recommend (and use) Canon lenses.


  38. From Terry Carraway (Sat Jan 27 08:21:34 2001 ):
    Ed Hopper - Also look into the T90. They are not cheap, but are awesome cameras.


  39. From Winston (Fri Jan 26 21:27:39 2001 ):
    Ryan: Depending on its condition $20.00 and up, is the camera in working condition? Is it working, as it should? Are the light seals and mirror foam good? Is the battery door good? (Not broken) was the finger grip included? Are they any defects on the body? (Dents scratches) Does it have the shutter-mirror squeak? Let us know all the above and the price you paid.


  40. From Ryan Jones (Fri Jan 26 13:25:30 2001 ):
    I have recently purchased a AE-1 Program w/ a 1:1.8 50 mm lens from a pawn shop. Does anyone know how much this camera is worth?

  41. From Winston (Wed Jan 31 10:23:11 2001 ):
    Ryan: Looks like you got yourself a very good deal on you AE-1P. You can get it de-squeaked for $30.00 and up, Good luck


  42. From Romania (Wed Jan 31 05:08:19 2001 ):
    I am new at this camera business so please, go easy on me. I live in Romania and purchased a AE1 for 3,000,000.00 Lei thats only about $100.00. It came with a Soligor Macro 28-80 lense, I have a lot to learn about it. It looks good and works great but when I look through the veiew finder it looks dirty. I have cleaned the lenses and the mirror but there is dirt on the inside of the mircroprism, or what ever you call that thing, how do I get it out? It's not like I can take it to the local camera shop to have it cleaned, there just aren't any around. Thanks for any help.


  43. From Ryan Jones (Wed Jan 31 01:53:51 2001 ):
    Thanks for the info and opinions folks. I bought the AE-1 program for $50 at a pawn shop and it came with that standard lens on it. It doesn't seem to have had much wear and tear to it - the only problem could be a sqeaky shutter.


  44. From Juan (Tue Jan 30 22:15:47 2001 ):
    Does anyone know where I can download the owners manual for a Canon AT-1? I need this very badly, and your help is appreciated. Thanks...


  45. From Winston (Tue Jan 30 07:26:14 2001 ):
    Mark: & Lin. You have A-1 s I would use them for your mirror lens. Not complicated at all, unless you just want to get another body. I think there is a manual on this board. Lin: Your problem could be the release magnet not letting go, take it to your favorite camera repair shop, or e-mail me. Good luck


  46. From Lin (Mon Jan 29 19:13:49 2001 ):
    Hi, my camera is AE1,the film advance lever seems stock there even when I change a new battery. Does anyone have the same problem happened before? Please tell me, Thanks!


  47. From Mark Wahlster (Mon Jan 29 12:26:14 2001 ):
    Hi people new to this message board. So a simple question would a AV-1 be a good choice for a body to mount a single apeture lens like a sigma 600mm mirror lens to I am looking for a body that will work with this type of lenses that is not as coplicated as trying to use it on one of my A1's. As this model is apeture priority would it not just read the light coming through the lens assuming it was at wide open (which it would be) and adjust the shutter to match the amount of light coming through the lens. PS anybody know where to find an AV-1 manual on line that I could go look at. Thanks I'll stay in touch this looks like a great site. Mark W.


  48. From Winston (Mon Jan 29 07:16:26 2001 ):
    Anthony: Barefoot is correct about the electromagnet it is dirty or week. I had a guy sent me his AE-1 with the same problem about 3 months ago, he used it with the problem to shoot 6 rolls of film. He said he would set up the shot frame focus and all that stuff then wind on the film and thus take the picture with out using the shutter release. He didn t mention exposure but said pictures came out good, except the ones he took when he was not thinking and wound on the film before setting up the shot. This is an easy fix unless the magnet is bad, most repair shop should have a use magnet still easy an fix. Check with your favorite repair shop or e-mail me. Barefoot thanks for remembering me.


  49. From Barefoot (Mon Jan 29 05:00:30 2001 ):
    Anthony. I have seen this one before. The shutter is fired by a electromagnet. most likley you have a short or even dirt causing this to happen to you. It could be as simple as having a C.L.A. or you might need parts. Winston sounds like the man you need to see.


  50. From Anthony (Mon Jan 29 01:43:46 2001 ):
    Every time I advance the film on my AE-1, the shutter snaps a picture. Can some one tell me why or tell me if i can have this fixed?

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