Canon A-Series SLR models- Guestbook/Message Board

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Canon A-Series SLR models - Archived Messages/Guestbook Entries

Canon AV-1 (1979) Canon AT-1 (1978) Canon A-1 (1978)
Canon AL-1 (1982) Canon AE-1 (1976) Canon AE-1 P (1981)

| 801-850 |

From Terry Carraway (Wed Mar 22 03:20:33 2000 ):
Diane - Time for a camera repair shop.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Mar 22 03:19:48 2000 ):
Ted - If you are running in program mode, and the light is low, the camera will set a low shutter speed. I think you are getting this. And at a slow shutter speed, any camera movement shows up as blur in the pictures. You can check this next time it happens, by setting it out of Program mode and see what shutter speed it takes to get the aperture within the limits.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Mar 22 03:17:30 2000 ):
Etienne - I would probably have it fixed. Unless I could trade it for another one.
From Diane (Tue Mar 21 07:01:49 2000 ):
The mirror is definately not showing and in the up position. However, I can manually move it up and down, and it also moves when I activate that bar above the red dot (which is all the way to the left when facing the camera), but continues to remain in the up position and film advance lever will not move even when mirror is held down. What next would you reccomend? Camera repair shop? I never noticed the shutter (or mirror system) ever making a squeak noise. Thanks, diane
From ted (Tue Mar 21 02:26:33 2000 ):
I have an ae-1 program camera and recently noticed that when i take a picture, while the camera is in program mode, the shutter seems to react slowly on some occasions. I have developed one roll after it started doing this and some of the pictures came out blurred. I have a second roll in the camera and have taken several photographs with the shutter still appearing to react slowly. I have changed the battery, however it didn't help. I am unable to determine why this occurring and believe the photographs are coming out blurred due to slow reaction of the shutter. Any assistance greatly appreciated.
From Andy M (Tue Mar 21 02:03:07 2000 ):
anybody know where I can get an eye cup for A1 - S4 was the cannon part I think ?
From Étienne Boulanger (Tue Mar 21 01:31:40 2000 ):
hi (again) i've tried everything you tould me to do and it still does not work. I took the film out and ive tried everything again (with the film out)and still doesnot work. I ve also found that the batery check light doesnot work too. What should i do ? kkep it (repairing it will be free) or change for a other model what are your suggestion ?
From Terry Carraway (Mon Mar 20 21:19:09 2000 ):
Dan - The Vivitar Series 1 is a very nice lens, but I like the Canon better. When I was shopping this range, the Canon just felt better, the zoom and focusing were smoother. The better lens optically is the Canon 80-200 f4.0, and the best (but you pay for it) is the Canon 80-200 f4.0 L series. Also the Canon lenses will have better resale if you even get out of Canon FD gear.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Mar 20 21:17:08 2000 ):
Diane - I sounds like the mirror is stuck in the up position. You can take the lens off and see if the mirror is up. If so, you can GENTLY see if it will come back down. DO NOT force anything. Was the camera making more noise operating than it used to? This tends to be the ultimate end of the infamous Canon A series shutter squeek, which is not the shutter, but the mirror system. THe other option is to take it to a camera repair shop and have them work on it. Even if you get the mirror down, a CLA (Clean, Lubricate, and Adjust) is probably in order.
From Terry Carraway (Mon Mar 20 21:14:24 2000 ):
Jack - I remember hearing about this, and it has to do with the mount or the lens projecting into the camera. I would not try it.
From Larry Billions (Tue Mar 28 23:57:11 2000 ):
I would like to know if any of you that have a AE1 program have ever had a problem with the shutter not operating when you have a 200mm lens on the body. Mine seems to only act up when I have the 200mm lens on. When I have the 70mm lens on it seems to work fine.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Mar 28 21:31:25 2000 ):
Paul - The reason is the metering system. Both these cameras use a beam splitter metering system which acts a polarizer. So, with a linear polarizer as you rotate it you will cross polarize with metering system and have some serious metering errors. There is no downside to only buying circular polarizers (except maybe the cost, but you will only have to buy them once).
From Paul Barefoot (Tue Mar 28 04:59:33 2000 ):
I have an F-1 and a AE-1. A lot of the stuff I read tells me that I need to use a circlular polorizing filter. Why?
From Dr S (Mon Mar 27 13:47:52 2000 ):
Dr S to Chris. Canon offered more than one screen for its cameras for this kind of stuff happening. This you observe is a physical-optical phenomenonon what happens when the aperture is small and the focusing screen is maybe an early model too. The solution is to use a different type of screen or a combination microprism/split image screen or see if Canon made a newer version for you camera that didn't black out so much-some is going to happen- with small f stops. When you use the teleconverter you are decreasing the effective aperture of your basic lens by two f stops meaning a whole lot.The best answer I think is to(1) live with this or (2) switch to a combination microprism/split image screen which are kicking around, or go to a company that makes lasermatte screens custom for Canon cameras. It will cost you for such a focusing aid and maybe you just need to buy a newer camera body for those telephoto shots and use two different kind of screens for each kind of lens. Hope Dr S got this one right, even though Dr S's degree is in rocket science, necromancy, international finance, and not optical physics I have observed this blackout thing with the older screens before lasermatte and even some of the newer ones. A screen is just a focusing aid but I know your frustration/I know your pain. That is why the autofocus is so much coming now.And if your teleconverter is not the Canon model it makes it all the worser.Ah well. Dr S., back from the Argentines in time for Spring in the Rockies. Zum wohl.
From Chris A. (Mon Mar 27 10:43:37 2000 ):
When using my 2X teleconverter with my 70-210mm f4.5 zoom, one half of the split focusing screen goes completely dark. It does not seem to help if I try to use the combination in brightly lit environments, and when the teleconverter is used with a 50mm f1.4, this effect is not observed. Any ideas or comments would be greatly appreciated.
From tom m. (Sat Mar 25 12:52:36 2000 ):
have a1 camera and looking to buy MA motor winder.
From LoriKS (Sat Mar 25 08:34:38 2000 ):
Andy I have found various Canon SLR accessories on Ebay. They are generally reasonable.
From Terry Carraway (Fri Mar 24 01:14:41 2000 ):
James - There are some third party flashes made that are dedicated to the Canon A series, or have plug in modules to make them so. But over all, I would just pick up a nice used Canon flash. Just so you know, the "dedication" in this vintage flash just means that when the flash is attached and fully charged, the camera gets automatically set to the appropriate shutter speed and aperture, and you get a flash ready indication in the viewfinder. There is no TTL or actual control of the flash from the camera. Most of these flashes are "automatic" in that they self limit output based on reflected light hitting a sensor on the flash itself.
From Kai Pin (Thu Mar 23 21:03:56 2000 ):
TO JAMES M BROWN: All the Canon Speedlites dedicated for the manual focus/FD System cameras ahve been discontinued. However, they are still available from most used dealers like Keh Camera Broker and B&H Photo of New York City. The companion Canon Speedlite for the AE-1 was the 155A although you can use any of the A-series flash with your camera like the Speedlite 133A, 166A, 177A, 188A and the 199A. The T-series Speedlites 277T and 299T can also be used.
From James M Brown (Wed Mar 22 08:25:47 2000 ):
I just got an AE-1, and was wondering if anyone knows if there are any flash units still made that are dedicated to it.
From Dr Strangelieb (Mon Apr 3 07:37:32 2000 ):
Dr S to Sam. The A-1 is superb, flawless, wunderbar, the peak of achievement in the A series. Don't pay no more than US $250.00 for the body in excellent condition and budget one hundred for cleaning and shutter damper lube, maybe in a year or so,- all used cameras 15 years old got to go in for the checkup sometime in their mature years. The biggest advantage, from my observation here in the mineshaft, but where I try to keep in touch, of these A series cameras is not the camera. Irrelevant the camera. Can use FT older model even or T series. Best feature which is overlooked is that Canon made a lot of lenses. Mountains of them. All kinds shapes and prices. All good stuff and some what we call superduper, ja. And because Canon when it went to autofocus in 1987 made a management and engineering decision to change the shape and size and configuration of its lens mount, all of a sudden comes a whole kaboodle of wonderful optics that the Volks are selling at great prices. So, Sam boobele, the A-1 has reliability as good as a Volkswagen Beetle, has a following, and still can use most (not all of the accessories like closeup kit) and lenses Canon made for -let's see- about 15 years huh. And those lenses are everywhere, unlike the Olympus and Minolta which are scarce. You want maybe a 300mm? No problem. A macro lens? Easy. A supertelephoto big as a Genoa salami? That one gonna cost you Sam. but its out there. Now you see why there is this page of A series camera worshipers. Cheapskates, I mean frugal guys und gals who know a deal when they see one. Buy the camera. No kopfer. Dr S c/o Dankeschon, MT. PS Ja, Terry, these questions are like the doctors who get only the sniffle cases every day. Makes me want to distribute my sick camera/where to buy thisorthat algorithm to eveybody on CD-ROM and charge $35.00 for shipping und handling. It do get boring, yawn.
From Sam Strom (Sun Apr 2 07:36:46 2000 ):
Hello! I have the opportunity to buy an A-1 plus a few accessories. I have never owned a Canon before and am very interested in hearing what you all think about them. I have been trying to find out a little more about the camera before I commit to the price asked. What was the cost of the camera new? I would appreciate any and all feedback. You may e-mail me at fssks@uaf.edu. Thanks a lot, Sam
From M. Lewis (Sun Apr 2 03:38:30 2000 ):
I am looking for a source to get a A2 power winder for my AE-1. Any ideas?
From Terry Carraway (Sat Apr 1 21:23:04 2000 ):
Zhdan - The purpose of using this board is to share information, private email replies do not share. Check the back pages of the board, I answered this recently, including full description of the pins involved.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Apr 1 21:21:57 2000 ):
Gary - There are many sources of Zoom lenses for the A series. Check the back messages on this board. It would also help if you would tell use where in the world you are, a recommendation for a shop in another country is probably not helpful.
From Terry Carraway (Sat Apr 1 21:20:34 2000 ):
Silvio - Mainly the FPS difference. But the Motor Drive and Power Winder A2 allow the use of the infrared remote LC-1 unit. The Motor Drive also adds a grip and extra shutter release buttons, the most useful one begin the one to use the camera in a vertical position. The Motor Drive has settings for Single (one shot put push of the shutter release), Low and High. Low beign about 2 FPS and high being 4 for the NiCad pack and 5 for the AA pack. The AA pack also has an instant high speed button. This button makes the Motor Drive run at 5 FPS no matter what the switch is set to. This is for sudden events which require it.
From Gary Curtis (Sat Apr 1 16:20:30 2000 ):
I have a Canon A-1.Can some one help me find a zoom lens for it?
From Silvio (Sat Apr 1 07:08:37 2000 ):
I was wondering what is different between the Motor Drive and Power Winder 1/2 , excepct different fps abilitys ?
From Zhdan (Sat Apr 1 00:42:41 2000 ):
Hi, I have a Canon A1 and if I set it to full automatic mode (lens and P setting) then I get an EE EEEEE EEE blinking display. I am only able to take pictures when the lense is not on the A setting but in apparture override. Can anyone please give me the proceedure to reset the camera so that it works correctly? Could it be that one of the pins on the camera mount (not lens mount) is damaged, which one would that be? Please send me your reply directly to zstaruch@yahoo.com Thanks a lot for your help!!!
From Gerry (Fri Mar 31 03:02:13 2000 ):
To Larry. What brand of lens is the 200? I never noticed any difference in the operation of an A series camera because of the focal length of the lens. The camera has enough juice to move the mechanical pins on any FD lens. My guess is that the 200 is an aftermarket model that is showing poor coupling to the AE-1 Program. If not, then the FD lens is suspect for repair. Hope this opinion is useful in narrowing down your choices for remedy. GS
From jim5618 (Fri Apr 7 05:01:38 2000 ):
This may be sacralige on this web site but what are the best lenses (other than Canon). I have been looking for a 35mm-105mm lens but the Canon ones are out of my price range. I have heard good things about Tamron but what about tokina, vivtar etc.
From Dr S (Thu Apr 6 12:35:31 2000 ):
Dr S to Silvio. Hmm,sounds like a permanent marriage to the AE-1P application. That is what you wanted I hope. Now the Tamron company is a big outfit with a web site and a phone number. Give them a call before you try any Robogrip pliers, I think. Dr S, c/o Fraggle Rock, MT
From silvio (Thu Apr 6 05:23:38 2000 ):
Hey I just got a Tamron 80-210 with Adaptall 2 convertor for my Ae-1p and I am having trouble removing the Adaptall 2 form the lens I was wondering if anyone know how to remove it and could guide me through.
From Terry Carraway (Wed Apr 5 22:32:19 2000 ):
Jesse - I have had this problem with my A-1. It turned out to be that the film had been advanced, but the shutter not cocked fully. So I activated the double exposure lever and using the wind lever, cocked the shutter. Then everything was fine.
From Dr S (Wed Apr 5 11:38:12 2000 ):
Jesse, I have to say I love your oblique opening line. " I have come into possession of an A-1" This sounds like the Miami Office of Drug Enforcement Agency saying we just confiscated the camera in a drug bust. Sorry, Dr S could not resist, a choke for the day. Good luck in your shutter winding. They rarely jam. Dr S c/o Rocky Mt Oyster, MT
From Gerry (Wed Apr 5 11:30:15 2000 ):
Jesse, the obvious things that come to mind are a)is the double exposure lever under the wind knob in its normal postion? (see online manual),b) is the tiny rewind release button under the camera free to move. The film rewind lever operates independent of the camera battery on the A-1. And the film wind and shutter blind will move into position even with the back open. Take the film out and try those two items as shots in the dark. GS
From Jesse Puhr (Wed Apr 5 00:32:13 2000 ):
I've recently come into possession of an A-1. For some reason, the film won't advance. I've loaded film into this camera before, but this time I can't get it to advance at all, or even get it to try to take a picture. I do need a new battery, but mechanically speaking, shouldn't I be able to advance the film. Is there a miniscule lever on this thing that keeps the film from advancing? Any helpful response would be greatly appreciated.
From Terry Carraway (Tue Apr 4 20:35:37 2000 ):
Albert - Canon never made an FD lens with this sort of range. One might want to consider why. There are 28 - 70 and 80 range lenses, and 70-210 and 80-200 lenses. Most of them with the typical zoom lens macro function (which really isn't macro). If you want the large range, but without the quality of Canon glass, Tamron makes a 28-200 and 28-300 for the FD mount. My advice, forget it, and buy a couple of pieces of Canon glass, you will be amazed at the difference.
From Albert Eclavea (Tue Apr 4 10:59:50 2000 ):
Need help from anyone...looking for a 28-200mm w/macro for my A1 (any brand but prefer canon lenses) and also a data back...please reply to me...movers broke my lens during house move... A1 is a superb camera at any angle...I am not a professional photographer but i can hold my own grounds...thanks to any responder.
From Sam (Tue Apr 4 01:44:26 2000 ):
M Lewis try http://triopia.com/cameras/mfsale.html I'm just starting to look at Canon equipment but that is one of the ad sites I've run across. Dr. S, Thanks a lot for your response. Everything else I've found about the A-1 makes itlook like a good investment and I am seriously impressed by the amount of available lenses. I am currently the owner of an old Minolta and a Ricoh which are nearly impossible to find equipment for anymore.
From CARLOS H. OLIVEIRA (Wed Apr 12 04:37:46 2000 ):
I'd like to congratulate you for your web page. You can't imagine how hard I've been looking for the AE-1 manual. To my surprise, you not only offer exactly what I needed but very important comments that will sure make my pictures a lot better. I'm not really used to the camera and wanted to know: when in the "A" position the exposure is automatic. What about the shutter? I've learned that it would allow sharper photos since the camera makes the reading itself. What about the shutter? Do I have to keep giving it a speed or is it also automatically set accordingly? Really appreciate your help.
From Winston (Tue Apr 11 20:16:17 2000 ):
Stuart Yes you can change in mid roll, It is the shutter that stops the light reaching the film and not the mirror, the shutter is behind the mirror.welcome to photography
From Tom (Tue Apr 11 04:49:39 2000 ):
Stuart - of course, any shutter-operated camera will let you change the lens without exposing the film. Take off the lens and look inside the camera body. You will notice that you are not looking at the film, but at a mirror. This mirror is projecting the image seen through the lens to the eye through the viewfinder via the pentaprism on top of the camera. When the shutter button is depressed, the mirror flips up and out of the way. The light then hits the film for a predetermined amount of time (shutter speed). The mirror returns to its original place and exposure is complete. No more light may reach the film until the shutter is again activated. Hope this has been helpful.
From Bert (Tue Apr 11 03:46:25 2000 ):
Anyone know where I can purchase optional Canon focusing screens for the AE-1P? Also, are the "BrightScreen" focusing screens worth the cost? Thanks in advance for your help.
From Stuart (Mon Apr 10 23:49:32 2000 ):
this is probably a stupid question but does the AE-1 allow you to change the lens with out exposing the film in camera.
From Gerry (Mon Apr 10 11:09:18 2000 ):
On parts for the AL-1 you are likely to have trouble. A used model from B and H in NYC lists for about US $130.00 with a warranty. That would be my recommedation the way to go on a camera of that vintage. If dad hasn't tried an AE-1P he might like that one even better. Someone on this forum I recall does repairs for a hobby-learning thing- on the AE series,(look at back pages) maybe he can help by looking at your camera and offer a free estimate. Labor is always the big item if you are unskilled at camera disassembly. Your part description-rewind gear, lever, unclear- actually. Good luck.
From John Laatsch (Mon Apr 10 07:18:40 2000 ):
I purchased a used Canon Power Winder A2 at a camera show. I was told that it only operated in the C mode on the AE-1. I did try it on my AE-1 at the show. I then tried it on my A-1 and it does not work in the S mode on it either. It must be a defective unit. Does anyone have info on this problem or perhaps a schematic? Could it be just a defective switch? Any help would be appreciated.
From b lorenz (Sun Apr 9 07:35:19 2000 ):
I'm looking for replacement Reward Spocket for a Canon AL 1(serial# 1279511) for my 63yo. father. He loves this camera and is not happy with his new camera but canon does not have this part anymore . If you can help me please email. My father will purchase a good condition camera oa broken one with right part. Thank you
From Ken Jeter (Sat Apr 8 13:38:46 2000 ):
I've recently aquired a Canon AE-1 and I'm having a problem with the film speed getting out of adjustment when I advance the film. It takes great pictures as long as I keep an eye on the film speed and keep re adjusting. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
From Maintainer (Fri Apr 7 11:20:18 2000 ):
#JIM5618#: Your message will be moved to a section where only issues relate to Optics be discussed. In fact, TOM's recent posting could answer some of your questions: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/lenses/optic.msql

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