Nikon F3 w/zoom MD-4.jpg (18k)

Modern Classic SLRs Series :

Nikon F3 - widely regarded as one of the most reliable electronic camera of all time and it was also the longest serving Nikon F-Series SLR camera. This evergreen model remains a hot favorite among many working pro and serious amateurs As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself and that includes how one handles his own photographic tools, this section allows you to share your knowledge & mutual experience using the camera. Some of the opinion presented within the site was specifically my personal experience and I do not wish to influence any decision prior to any potential purchases or disposal. You may make use of this convenience here to present your own views. Enjoy.

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1. From : Peter (pjdavies1@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:22 PM Thursday 30 March, 2006

I'm looking for a bag to use with an F3 fitted with MD-4. I have a CCS Kangaroo case, which is good without the MD-4...any ideas for a similar type of case (holster style, padded) that can handle the motor drive unit too? Thanks, Peter


2. From : kevin (zaku206s@msn.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:20 AM Thursday 30 March, 2006

recently, i opened the back of my f3 and found that the shutter curtain was wrinkled. it doesnt seem serious. not like light can go through and shutter speed works fine but it just really bothers me. is there anyway 2 fix it w/o having 2 get it replaced? i have no idea how it got that way considering that the shutter curtains are made of titanium and all rite?


3. From : Hauke (w123200t@yahoo.no)
Url : http://
Date : 08:51 PM Tuesday 28 March, 2006

Hi Floyd, the focusing screens consist of a glass condenser lens on top and an acrylic resin focusing plate on the bottom. The image is focused on the acrylic one, so you should avoid scratches and fingerprints on it.
Well, normally the problem is dust. I do use a camel hair brush to remove it (yes, the same to clean lenses and negatives as well), sometimes combinded with compressed air (beware of the distance of the bottle if you should use one, it may cause some ice at shallow distance...). For them 'hard' cases like fingerprints, try a clean and dry microfibre cloth.


4. From : Hauke (w123200t@yahoo.no)
Url : http://
Date : 07:37 PM Tuesday 28 March, 2006

Hi Floyd, for normally there's only dust on the screens, I do use a camel hair brush and compressed air (be careful 'bout the distance of the bottle for it will ice over...) and for 'hard' cases like fingerprints a microfibre cloth.
The screens consist of a glass condenser lens on top and an acrylic resin focusing plate on the bottom. For the image is focused on the acrylic plate, you should avoid scratching or fingerprints on this side...

Hauke


5. From : Floyd Lawrence (hal2001@adelphia.net)
Url : http://
Date : 09:22 AM Friday 24 March, 2006

What is the best procedure to use to clean a focusing screen for a F3HP? Liquid lens cleaner? What sort of cloth? I haven't been able to find this out by searching the Message board. Thanks. Floyd Lawrence


6. From : kirk (kirkchan50@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:43 PM Tuesday 14 March, 2006

Hi Ron, The foam won,t cause any light leak, but it,s bad for the long run in this case. The only solution is take both cameras to a repair shop and replace the "foam housing", but I don,t quite sure how much they charge. The foam melted after period of time when camera not in use, and also depending where did u store em and the temperture. good luck.


7. From : Ron (HappyMac@comcast.net)
Url : none
Date : 07:15 AM Monday 13 March, 2006

I dug my decades old Nikon FM and F3 HP (all black) out of storage today, put in fresh button batteries, and fired 'em up. I did some cleaning with lens paper to get rid of dust and grime, as well as rub the electrical contact points.

When I had the body cap or lens off, I noticed the foam strip that cushions the mirror flip-up didn't look very foamy or cushiony any more. I touched it and found it was sticky. In fact, my finger stroke on the "foam" suddenly produced a sticky ball of rubbery black gum, which fell on the mirror. Not good!

I'm a pretty handy guy. I can imagine scraping off the bad foam with an X-Acto knife or somesuch. Any suggestions on where I could obtain a tiny strip of replacement foam with, I guess, peel-and-stick backing? Both cameras need it, but on the 2nd one I had sense enough to lightly touch the gooey foam, not stroke sideways.

Or should I leave it alone? Is a strip of gooey foam enough of a cushion for the mirror when it slaps out of the way of the light path for an exposure?


8. From : Jaime (from Colombia) (zuikkor@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:47 AM Monday 13 March, 2006

Wow, It's amazing! in this days, where the digital cameras galore, offers plenty of point and shoots, you kids keep on trying the trusty 35 mm SLR's. Bravo! Keep them alive, keep developing film! My army of 3 Olympuses and 2 Nikons plus weapons lenses won't be fighting alone against Doctor Evil master of the megapixel world.


9. From : kirk (kirkchan50@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:09 PM Friday 10 March, 2006

Hiya,
For the F3T cameras, probably u can find a very mint one on ebay, i don,t think there are any new ones on the market nowadays. I,m going to put mine with motor drive; MK1 on the ebay few days later, please feel free to check it out.


10. From : Michael Porter (mjprtr@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:58 AM Friday 10 March, 2006

I have a recently purchased F3. The metering works great in manual mode. However in automode, the shutterspeed jumps out of range even with plenty of speeds available. For example. F1.8 will give a 2000 shutterspeed, F5.6 250, after 5.6 the -8- appears. Manually I can set lower shutterspeeds and get higher f stops. Any advise would be appreciated.


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