Nikon F3 w/zoom MD-4.jpg (18k)

Modern Classic SLRs Series :

Nikon F3 - widely regarded as one of the most reliable electronic camera of all time and it was also the longest serving Nikon F-Series SLR camera. This evergreen model remains a hot favorite among many working pro and serious amateurs As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself and that includes how one handles his own photographic tools, this section allows you to share your knowledge & mutual experience using the camera. Some of the opinion presented within the site was specifically my personal experience and I do not wish to influence any decision prior to any potential purchases or disposal. You may make use of this convenience here to present your own views. Enjoy.

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1. From : felipe rutllant (fotomontaje@gmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:36 AM Tuesday 11 October, 2005

last thursday (oct 6 2005) someone stole my nikon f3hp at urban outfitters' 6ave store in NYC. I have just bought at the beginning of this year. it was in mint conditions. please if you have any information email me. no questions asked!! of course that I’ll give a reward for my camera. thanks


2. From : Hauke (w123200t@yahoo.no)
Url : http://
Date : 02:44 AM Tuesday 11 October, 2005

To Kelly Hi, the F3 metering system is a bit different for other Niks for it uses a 80:20 range which means 80% of the metering will be taken in the center of the pic view in the viewfinder, 20% of the rest (other models use a 60:40 partition mode). So put the body to 'A' mode of the shutter speed dial (the F3 is designed to work on aperture priority then, means, the shutter speed will defined after the combination of aperture chosen and film speed) and locate the object of your main interest. While having it centered, press the lower button and get it hold down while composing the pic in the viewfinder and press the shutter release without getting this lower knob off.
Exposure Valuation (EV) from +2 to -2 steps depends on the main colours of your main subject and in parts of the background. The darker the object, the higher the contrast to the background is, the more have you to chose an EV to minus (i.e. a black cat in front of a dark wall) or plus (i.e. a bride in snow). The reason is simple: EV is for correction of the metering systems ability to split the whole pic in a range of grays and will chose an exposure equal to a standard gray tone.
If you wanna work in complete manual mode, you've got two possibilies: Get your wanted aperture first, spot on your main subject and then turn the shutter speed dial until you'll see a litlle +- in the upper left corner of the view finder's LCD indicator. Second way: set the shutter speed wanted and then turn the aperture-ring of your lens. (hehe, third way: Use a handmeter....) Hauke


3. From : kelly mills (hjmills@mindspring.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:16 AM Monday 10 October, 2005

i have a f3 and i bought it off of ebay. i like this camera a lot but i can never get the right exposure. i never know what esposure to pick on the dial. is there any tool of device that you just point to the object and it will tell you what exposure to ture to between +2 and - 2? because it gets annoying when you finally take a good picture and when you get it back it is dark because you didnt turn it to the right dial. please tell me if there is any dial that would fix this problem like a light meter or something.


4. From : kelly mills (hjmills@mindspring.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:15 AM Monday 10 October, 2005

i have a f3 and i bought it off of ebay. i like this camera a lot but i can never get the right exposure. i never know what esposure to pick on the dial. is there any tool of device that you just point to the object and it will tell you what exposure to ture to between +2 and - 2? because it gets annoying when you finally take a good picture and when you get it back it is dark because you didnt turn it to the right dial. please tell me if there is any dial that would fix this problem like a light meter or something.


5. From : advice seeker (advice@needed.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:41 PM Wednesday 28 September, 2005

Someone is selling a "burgundy brown leather case CF-22 for Nikon F3 camera" I think something like the thrird from the first row, but it doesn't mentioned if it is the same (CF-22) http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/accessories/caseshoods.htm In realtion to this site: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/ftz/index.php3 how to handle the sales in that forum ? anyone has experience in this ?


6. From : Mark Stephan (MarkStephan_56@yahoo.com)
Url : http://www.geocities.com/markstephan_56/My_page.html
Date : 05:52 PM Tuesday 27 September, 2005

Leslie, it may cheaper to replace the camera than have the shutter repaired or replaced. If you travel to Tennessee you might want to check out Thompson Photo in Knoxville, they had a couple of nice F3's and an F2 in super nice shape the last time I was in there store. A little closer to home, here in Morristown their is a little store called Camera Castle and they have one body that I know of but don't know the condition. And of course there's always eBay where I've sold two F3HP bodies over they past couple of years. Regards, Mark Stephan


7. From : Leslie (strixvaria@earthlink.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:06 AM Thursday 22 September, 2005

Hi all, I have a Nikon F3 that has had a problem with the shutter sticking open. I took it to one shop and they some work which helped initially, but the problem has returned. I think that the shutter curtain itself is bent. Anyone have thoughts about how repairable this is, estimated cost, and recommendations for repair shops either in OH or TN (I bounce btwn the two states. I love Nikons, and am really missing being able to take photos. Thanks. Leslie


8. From : Bob Pitzer (bpitzer@jascoproducts.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:25 PM Wednesday 21 September, 2005

Have a Nikon F3HP with a problem. Light meter is not working and shutter release is not working. Batteries have been changed. Had the same problem with an FG once, but never had it fixed. Any ideas? Can someone recommend a repair shop?


9. From : Mark Stephan (MarkStephan_56@yahoo.com)
Url : http://www.geocities.com/markstephan_56/My_page.html
Date : 05:31 AM Wednesday 21 September, 2005

Logan, sorry for the double post. I just got my F3HP/MD-4 out and loaded it with a test roll and tried to duplicate your problem and could not. I must mention though that you should set your MD-4 to the orange dot and not the 0. My camera behaves the same with and without film. BTW, if you don't have a test roll and don't mind losing a roll all you have to do is stop the rewind once it begins and manually rewind it into the film can leaving just a 1/2" out so it can be used again. I still think the problem is with the MD-4 shutter release circuitry. Do you have access to another MD- for further testing? Hope this helps, Mark Stephan


10. From : Mark Stephan (MarkStephan_56@yahoo.com)
Url : http://www.geocities.com/markstephan_56/My_page.html
Date : 05:08 AM Wednesday 21 September, 2005

Logan, when I load film into my F3HP with MD-4 attached I always set the film counter to O and set the MD-4 to single frame advance and have expeirenced no ill effects. I would suggest trying again with a practice roll and see what happens. If it advances the film to the end I suspect the problem is with the MD-4's film advance button.
Mark Stephan


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