Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Nikon F3 - widely regarded as one of the most reliable electronic camera of all time and it was also the longest serving Nikon F-Series SLR camera. This evergreen model remains a hot favorite among many working pro and serious amateurs As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself and that includes how one handles his own photographic tools, this section allows you to share your knowledge & mutual experience using the camera. Some of the opinion presented within the site was specifically my personal experience and I do not wish to influence any decision prior to any potential purchases or disposal. You may make use of this convenience here to present your own views. Enjoy.
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1. From : Calley (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 12:34 PM Sunday 01 June, 2008
What is the cause of a low and hard to read lCD on my F3 ?? How to fix ?2. From : Allan M Purtle (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:09 AM Tuesday 06 May, 2008
I use the F3HP as a baseline for establishing valuations in the recyled market. An average clean condition F3HP has an intrisic value of $250-$300, deduct $100.oo for a plain F3. Average clean condition MD-4 has an intrisic value of $100.00. Deduct 50% for minor brassing in more than 2 locations.
A F3 or F3HP in the same condition as Leonard's would probably bring between $75.00 and $150.00, lucky for Leonard, his is a F3/T ;)
A "new" F3HP in the original box, with ALL the items originally included should be auctioned with a $1000.oo minimum bid. A "new" MD-4 should have a minimum bid of $450.00. Any item auctioned as "new" MUST include ALL original packaging and literature supplied in the year of that model. Deduct 50% if it does not.
At this point in time, any "new" F3HP or MD-4 is likely to be bought by a collector, so the price will only stand if the buyer knows everything is complete and can be sold in the future for at least the price paid. There's not much point in 'collecting' if the items are not complete and therefore will not retain their value, for example, if a collector HAS TO HAVE a pk-13 and is willing to to pay $500.00 for an item that has an intrisic value of $30-$50, then by all means email me and I'll sell you as many as you want ;)
One should also remember that the valuations are mostly established by the marketplace, which these days is eBay, but one must remember that despite eBay being worldwide, valuations are based on USD and prices paid for North American items, because that is the largest eBay population.
Oceana, Asia and even Europe tend to have a 20% higher average price paid due to the smaller pool of items available in those countries.
All of this assumes the marketplace is robust, but as the US economy falters, the number of bidders for any item falls. Fewer bids equals a lower price realised. The time of the year is also important, for people in North America, eBay is mostly a winter pass time and the majority of the population is making their annual transition to outdoor activities by late March.
If you wish to sell an average condition item, you will get less by selling it today than you would have got in February, but a "new" item will always have that much higher intrinsic value and will demand that higher price under almost any condition. Just make sure that you protect your investment by setting a reserve price for the item or use the miminum acceptable as starting bid. If you don't get the price you asked, list the item once a month until you do, assuming you were not setting an unatainable price.
Of course all these princles work in reverse as well, so if you are looking for something, now is a good time to get it for less than you would have paid in February, for example, 2 months ago the average sale price for a Nikkor AF-S ED 35-70mm f/ 2.8D (IF) lens was $1250.oo ($1150-$1350), this month the average price paid is $1050.oo ($950-$1150)and that is for an average condition one without the box or liturature and possibly a broken or missing hood or case that the dog chewed up. The sweet spot seems to have been 2 weeks ago when I got a mint condition, with all orignal materials except the case strap for, $877.oo, one hasn't sold for less than $1000.oo since (3 sold last 10 days) in any condition ! The point is that if you don't get a reasonably set price for an item with high intrisic value, you probably will in a couple weeks.
But back to the original question, If I had a NEW F3HP with all original material and the packaging was in really clean condition, I would list it on eBay with a starting bid of $1000.oo and a buy it now price of $1600.oo using a 10 day auction to start on a Thursday evening at 10:00 pm EST, which makes the auction end at 10:00pm EST Sunday. This gives you 2 weekends for people to find it and consider it. IT is also important that you supply a minimum of 6 high res pictures, but I recommend th full 12 for such an item. I've taken to use a macro lens for my eBay pics lately, makes for some dramatic punch, but you have to spend extra time getting rid of the dust you can't normally see on an item ;) Also write a clear concise description, there is little point in listing all the boring specs for a high value camera or lens because anyone considering such a purchase either knows already or doesn't care ;) I just add a tag line that says "everything you ever wanted to know about xxxx can be found here" with a link to the appropriate page on MIR.
WOW, that got out of hand fast LOL ;)3. From : Jaydee (F3shutterbug@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:43 AM Tuesday 18 March, 2008
I love everything about my F3 HP. I can still get used quality accessories and my mail order guys ALWAYS have everything that I want or need. As long as my F3 is serving me well, I will never go digital. I love the feel and the mechanics of the camera. I guess it's like driving around in a cherry '69 Camaro SS. You know you are special because not everybody is doing it!4. From : Giorgio (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 11:08 PM Thursday 28 February, 2008
Hi, just my view about the debated F3/t back issue. We know that the "champagne" model had a titanium back. Also true that following "black" model had one, at least at the beginning. But I see a few black ones with a plain steel back, and mine is like that too. My one is a rather high serial number (8523xxx). My idea is that later black F3/T's were issued with the plain back. It also seems to me that later cameras had a slightly different paint, looking a bit less matt or maybe not as thick. Maybe someone else can contribute to this?5. From : JWOODS (centurywoods@noSPAM.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:22 AM Wednesday 13 February, 2008
Yeap, I would guess so. F3P is/was a special batch of F3 designed for press (If you like, the P can stands for Pro). They have designed the flash to use with any ISO flash foot. Making it easier to serve reporters' needs rather than Nikon own flash units. Actually, the main difference is with the prism. but there are a few modifications but as these were Nikon factory spec and making it more appealing to collectors.6. From : Nicholas Kiong (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:37 PM Tuesday 12 February, 2008
Then may I ask if I have a Mint (barely had 20 rolls used) F3P, would it demand a lot more? Is it also considered a collector's item?7. From : JWoods (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 01:50 PM Saturday 15 December, 2007
A Simple question, but difficult to answer. Before it was announced discontinuation, it was retailed for around USD1,000-00. But the whole issue is, F3 is so rugged that purchase one at used condition seemingly is a logical way to acquire one good image tool for personal photography. The strength of your mechandize is "NEW". The price variation can be quite wide apart. See some indication at Ebay for used and near new condition of a Nikon F3 at:-
http://search.ebay.com/Nikon-F3_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQfasiZ1QQfbfmtZ1QQfromZR40QQsabfmtsZ2QQsascsZ2QQsbrbinZt8. From : graham glamuzina progear Ltd (email@example.com)
Url : http://f3 series
Date : 12:49 PM Saturday 15 December, 2007
I want to know if there is any demand for a F3 camera in the original packing NEVER BEEN OUT OF ITS BOX..... BRAND SPANKING NEW..... IS IS POSSIBLE WELL A CUSTOMER HAS OFFERED IT TO ME TODAY I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IT IS WORTH.
graham@ progear.co.nz graham glamuzina progear limited
3 railway street newmarket auckland new zealand. best regards GG9. From : graham glamuzina progear Ltd (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 12:43 PM Saturday 15 December, 2007
I am a photo dealer in Auckland New Zealand. I have had a customer come in today with a F3 body only still in the original packaging NEVER BEEN OPENED..... and asked me to value it.... I am at a loss What is such a camera worth.... yes thats correct NEVER BBEN OUT OF THE BOX,or indeed the wrapping.
Can you please advise me of your opinions to
Graham Glamuzina Progear Limited 3 Railway Street Newmarket Auckland New Zealand. email@example.com. From : Neo (firstname.lastname@example.org)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124
Url : http://
Date : 02:32 PM Friday 14 December, 2007
IMPORTANT:- are you sure your lens is an Ai'D ? i.e. Converted Ai Nikkor lens from an old Non-Ai Micro-Nikkor ? IF it is an Ai-D, you need NOT have to lift the coupling lever up. Flip it down and use the lens normally. In fact, OTHER THAN OLD NIKKOR LENSES, you should also make sure the tab is at notmal position. NEXT- there is a shutter blind for you to shoot self timer unattended to cover the eyepiece from stray light that MIGHT affect exposure, so - check the shutter blind and open it. Third, check the aperture lever if it works and mate with the lens (use the depth of field preview button).
Last you should spend time go through these pages (VERY detail) but you can learn a lot with your camera (Superb info):-
IF it still having problem, throw the camera back to B&H ! Nikon F3 is a fantastic camera and very very rugged and reliable.
Maintainers for Nikon F3 Series SLR cameras Message Board:
Walt McKinney (Waltavion@AOL.com); Allan M Purtle (ampurtle(AT)sympatico.ca); Hermann Graf (email@example.com), JWoods,
Gen. Holst, MCLau (firstname.lastname@example.org) ROZ (email@example.com)
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