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EOS-1 Series is Canon's flagship camera model which uses the autofocus EF/EOS system as the backbone. The Series which comprised of the original EOS-1 has evolved to the present EOS-1v (film based) to EOS-1D (Digital based) which widely acclaimed as the most used professional camera right now at the professional user's market. Here is a common Message Board designed specifically for Canon EOS-1 Series SLR model which aims for common support and sharing mutual knowledge among users. Hope fully it will see its worth in time to come.
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1. From : zerofortyone (sportsphotog@zerofortyone.com)
Url : http://www.zerofortyone.com
Date : 01:08 PM Saturday 01 September, 2007
Hello all and thanks for any help you might provide in advance. I use a Canon 1D MARK IIN I would like to know that when shooting in M or MANUAL does the exposure meter on the right side of the viewfinder matter? In other words, you can set the Ap and shutter speed but it will indicate that you may be over or under exposed is this always the case? If I am in M mode is it ideal for me to over-expose if I am in a low light conditions?2. From : Moderator Gary Rowan Higgins (Australia) (nomail@encable.net.au)
Url : http://
Date : 06:12 AM Friday 17 August, 2007
Cathy,
Irritatingly short battery life has been a known problem with the EOS 5 model for a long time, however, it is less common with the EOS 1N which is often found with the power drive booster in place and no 2CR5 battery option. One thing to avoid is that 'ranging' AF frequently (from infinity to near-subjects and back, pressing the shutter without actually triggering the mechanism) is a known antangonist toward *any* batteries, but particularly the 2CR5 batteries.
A very large number of working professionals discard the 2CR5 battery grip on the EOS1N and employ 8 AA batteries in the power drive booster. I use FR6 lithium batteries: these batteries are much lighter than normal alkaline batteries and provide reliable power when working for extended periods of time in hot or cold environments.
* * * W A R N I N G * * *
Lithium AA (FR6) batteries can only be used in those models of the Canon power drive booster E1 which have an asterisk ( * ) denoting the AEL button on the grip. Use of lithium batteries in boosters not so marked can cause overheating and damage both to the booster and the camera body.
There is a mixed body of opinion that Canon's Image Stabilizer (IS) lenses exacerbate drain on 2CR5 batteries; imprudent use of IS, such as turning it on while the camera is tripod-mounted, should be avoided.
Frequent use of AF can be minimised by switching the lens to MF and manually focusing during composition and metering (ensure you select the focusing point specific to the subject location prevent AF shifting the point when engaged); when you've framed your image, then engage AF.
garyh3. From : Cathy Davidson (cjs1@cogeco.ca)
Url : http://
Date : 09:05 PM Thursday 16 August, 2007
I recently bought a used EOS 1, and have noticed that it devours a 2CR5 battery within 3 or 4 rolls of film, especially if I use the AF a lot. I also have the battery pack/power booster which will take 8 AA batteries and I've been using this instead of the more expensive 2CR5 batteries, but it makes the camera VERY heavy. Has anyone else had this battery problem, or is this kind of battery consumption normal for the EOS 1?
4. From : Moderator Gary Rowan Higgins (Australia) (nomail@encable.net.au)
Url : http://
Date : 07:47 AM Tuesday 14 August, 2007
Steve,
Though unorthodox, you should be able to use both of your EF lenses on some EOS digital bodies, the difference being the focal length will change ie. your 70-210mm tele lens becomes a 112-320mm lens and the 28mm prime lens becomes a 45mm lens (for all digital bodies with *less* than a 1:1 35mm-digital sensor size).
Digital bodies with no change to focal EF lens focal length include the EOS 5D and EOS 1D Mk III — both of which are very heavy, very bulky and very, very expensive.
Some lenses have a protruding rear element assembly which can severely damage the digital mirror box: seek advice from your usual dealer before fitting any existing lenses to digital bodies.
Also, Canon makes several digital dedicated tele lenses (the EF-S series): 18-55mm f3.5-5.6II, 10-22mm and 17-55mm f2.8. The 18-55mm is commonly included in the popular EOS 400D digital kit. These lenses are optimized for digital focal length and responsiveness.
garyh5. From : steve c (sr.chivers@ntlworld.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:14 AM Tuesday 14 August, 2007
hi i have a EOS 1000/f body ,an Canon EF 70-210 1:3.5-4.5 ultrasonic and a ef28mm 1:2.8 lens
can i use the lenses on a digital body if so which one
Steve c6. From : Will Australia (will@mail.com)
Url :
Date : 12:39 PM Monday 13 August, 2007
Wow - sure was a lot to take in... thank you very much Garyh.
Well, no I had tried to clean all contacts, and also press the clear button on thi inside of the palm door, alas yes it had reset it, but as soon as I pressed the shutter, it just blinked bc again.. Anyway, it's working fine at the moment (touch wood!) so I won't stress bout it too much..
The latex cover also doesn't worry me, I'll leave that on, th emore protection the better I guess!!
Well I'm totally confused about the back up camera.. the 1v suonds too complicated, and hard to find seconhand, and the 3's metering sounds dodgey, maybe I'll keep an eye out for a 1n. I'm happy with mine, it can do everything I need it to!! Althouugh I doub't I'll be able to find the standard grip! Thanks again very much - most helpful =)7. From : Will (will@mail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:47 AM Friday 10 August, 2007
Hey Everyone,
a couple of questions.. I purchased my 1n a about a year and a half ago. I had not any problems with it, until, this year I went to take a shot and upon pressing the shutter down, it just blinkied bc, it happened once before, but fixed itself within a few seconds - I thought nothing of it. Keeping in mind it had full batteries, terminals and contacts had been cleaned. alas this time it was out of action for a whole week, and whilst I am at art school - not a good thing to happen. Lucky I had a couple of older cameras to use.. Anyway after a week, it miraculously fixed it self... So 1st question, why did it do this, and is it likely to happen again? How serious a problem?
2nd question, my 1n seems to have, around the top left buttons, metering, multi exposre etc, a latex/plastic covering over all buttons, I have not seen this before, and was wondering whether it was a factory optopn, or someone do it after buying, I assume it's extra-weatherproofing, as it is sealed.. Any leads?
3rd question, I am wanting another eos, quality body. Weight isn't really an issue.. at this stage at least. I was thinking between another 1n, an rs, a 1v or a 3, can someone give me some feed back about the weather proofing additional features etc of the models, and any personal recomendations, I have only ever used the 1n. Apparently the 3 and 1v have more a/f points and eye control focus, what is this? I was leaning towards the 1v, but 2nd hand avaliabilty is scarce, so it seems..
And lastly, when I bought my 1n, it came only with the booster, I was wondering whether you can still by the small hand grip with the optional power supply, I don't know anything bout it, might be easier for concealment sometimes that is all. Well any replies about any of these questions will be greatly appreciated, cheers.
Will~
***
Will,
There have been a couple of postings to this forum regarding the flashing "bc" (battery check) on the EOS 1N. If the booster is attached, remove it and check the interface terminals, including those in the base of the 1N. Another action to take is to press the "Clear" button inside the palm door of the 1N. This action resets the EOS 1N to default system settings. Refer to this link (lower down on page) for the Clear function: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/EOS-1n/htmls/CustomFunctions.htm .
The self-adhesive latex cover over the control buttons on the EOS 1N top panel is a user-option, similar to covers placed over keyboards. It provides enhanced protection form the entry of foreign matter and rain. The 1N has effective weather seals beneath the top cover so this covering is only necessary for very extreme conditions. If you do not intend to use the EOS 1N in adverse weather conditions the soft button cover can be removed. Be aware that there is a possibility the adhesive, over time, may lift the legends imprinted upon the top panel, so remove it very carefully.
The EOS 3 has very good weather resistance but users have reported occasional anomalies with the metering. It is a solid and reliable workhorse. The 3 does not share the same metering system as the 1N, but a newly developed "cluster" arrangement centralised in the viewfinder. The eye control focus, whereby focus locks onto the point in the viewfinder you are looking at, while effective in the revamped EOS 3, is far less of a turn-on today than it was in the 1990s when the EOS 5 first came to prominence with that feature; many saw it simply as a gimmick. The later EOS 50e (discontinued) enhanced the accuracy of ECF in horizontal and vertical operation, but the popularity of the feature waned.
The impressive EOS 1V, replacement for the 1N, is very weather resistant indeed, and also quite heavy. It is packed with a large number of features (including advanced flash metering) and the large number of focusing points add complexity where perhaps, for some users, it is least desired. A viewfinder cluttered with so many focusing points is a big step up from the 1N, as are the array of features and deep customisations. Bristling with automation and speed, the 1V is aimed more at active professionals such as photojournalists, sports and extreme uses.
Whichever camera you select for your second body depends on your budget and how you perceive for actual and intended use the existing cameras you have. Many users start with an EOS 5, then get the EOS 1N and then perhaps a second EOS 1N; otherwise, there is a learning curve involved in understanding the operation of the newer cameras (3, V, et al). Weight is also a consideration, especially with the EOS 1V.
The grip you mention for the EOS 1N without the booster attached is often summarily discarded when the booster is purchased. Replacements are not stocked by Canon. Using this grip (I think it's called a GR-E1 grip?) dramatically enhances handling of the EOS1N, making it much more comfortable without the bulky booster and eminently suitable for packing away in a small case for travel. Specialist camera dealers like those trading for pros, may have these grips. I have tried myself to obtain one without success.
--garyh8. From : Moderator Gary Rowan Higgins (Australia) (nomail@encable.net.au)
Url : http://
Date : 08:01 AM Thursday 09 August, 2007
Peter,
All EOS cameras have a 3/8" tripod screw thread, including that in the base of the power drive booster E1 (PDB-E1), all models from 1991.
***
Correction: 1/4" screw interface.9. From : Peter (Peter_reed@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:52 AM Thursday 09 August, 2007
Can anyone tell me what the thread size is on the EOS1 tripod mount hole?
I bought a tripod but need to get the quick release plate, but I'm not sure on the thread size - I think it's 3/8"?10. From : Paul Bolam (bolampaul@aol.com)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51
Url : http://
Date : 06:38 AM Friday 03 August, 2007
Hi Gary,
Just worked out that the noise I hear is the lens being stopped down when the shutter release is pressed half way.
Up to now I've only used my lenses wide-open and therefore wondered what the clicking sound was!
P.S. my eyes glaze over when I try to read camera instruction manuals!
Cheers,
Paul.
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