Nikon F2 Series Professional SLR camera Models

1. From : Curtis (c-ander@shaw.ca)
Url : http://
Date : 10:08 AM Sunday 28 March, 2004

I just purchased an MD-3 to add to my F2 on ebay. It worked fine for the first hour or so I played with it but since then the drive connection appears broken.

I have disassembled the pair and re-assembled the pair tightly many times, but it still behaves the same. Symptoms are:
- when the two are apart and the dial is turned on the MD-3 frame counter, the spindle turns, the MD-3 frame counter advances until it hits zero, and then the MD-3 stops. This is exactly what is expected.
- when connected and the F2 is wound manually the MD-3 count down dial advances showing that the two are connected. Again, as expected.
- when the frame count down dial on the MD-3 is set above 0 at this point it will partially (sometimes fully) wind the shutter on the F2 but the motor continues to run and the connection between the two is severed. The MD-3 count down dial is stopped even though the motor continues to run. If I set the MD-3 frame counter to 0 to stop the motor the F2 can be manually wound the rest of the way and then fired.
- manually advancing the F2 and firing a few times seems to temporarily re-connect the MD-3 since the MD-3 count down dial eventually starts to move again.
- turning back on the MD-3 by setting the count down dial above 0 repeats the sequence - the F2 is partially wound and then the MD-3 motor freewheels until I stop it by setting the countdown dial back to 0.

Any suggestions?

2. From : Ron Chakov (todaysbizman@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date :

I recently received a Nikon F2 from my grandpa to use in my college photo class. When I received the camera I realized that wben I tried to load a roll of film the film advance lever wouldn't crank. I took the camera to a repair shop and they claim that the camera needs a new shutter release shaft because the current one is bent and that there is an internal part missing that is part of the same piece. He also recommeded that I replace the foam (which prevents light from getting in the camera) since it is an older model. He quoted me $95 for labor and parts. Is this price quote out of the question? Please respond back with any suggestions that you may have. Thanks, Ron

3. From : James Lai (jimbob83@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:37 AM Tuesday 23 March, 2004

Vicky, the batteries are silver oxide and known variously as MS76, SR44, 357 (and probably some other designations too). These are available at drugstores, convenience stores, Wal-mart, etc. You can also use LR44 (and equivalent) alkaline batteries in a pinch, but the silver oxide types mentioned earlier will give you much better results.

Richard, as far as I know, the F2 electrical system merely holds the batteries and provides an on/off switch for the meter head. I don't have my F2 handy to check the voltage at the contacts, but I would think it should read 3 volts. If you have a voltmeter you can remove the meter head and check the voltage at the body contacts. Pull out the wind lever first to turn on the circuit, though.

Edward, the 2 1.5 volt batteries are in series so they add up to 3 volts.

4. From : Vicky Dennison (vickydennison@msn.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:12 AM Tuesday 23 March, 2004

I just purchased a Nikon F2a and need batteries to check everything out. The older dead batteries are MS76 1.5v. I went to Ritz Camera without the batteries and they had no clue as to what batteries to buy as everythings by model number. I told them it was a Nikon F2a and I needed 1.5v silver button type batteries and they just drew a blank. Does anyone out there know the battery brand and model number I could use?

5. From : mark Silverstein (Msilve2212@cs.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:11 AM Friday 19 March, 2004

interested in a DS-2 EE apture control or a DS-1

6. From : Richard Creviston (RLC@RNETINC.NET)
Url : http://
Date :

I have recently acquired a Nikon F2 SB (DP-3 Head). The meter is not responsive (No LEDs Light up)with new batteries installed.. I don't know if the fault is the meter or the camera. I can't find a known good F2 to try my DP-3 head on it to verify if my head is functional. No local camera shops have one in their inventory. My question: With new batteries (2, 1/12V Batteries) should there be a full 3volt delivered to the contacts on the camera top (with the head removed)? Or is there a resistor in the circuit which drops the voltage? Conversely can I apply 3 volts
to the Head contacts to confirm that it is functional without risk to the finder? Thanks for any help. I have several Nikon F's but this is my first experience with F2. Gratefully Yours, Richard.

7. From : Edward Swearingen (ercmail@yahoo.com)
Url : http://www.salocal.com
Date :

I just bought a '73 F2 from Adroama...they'd reset all the lower shutter speeds, put new batteries, and said it was ALL in working order. I find the meter not working, and checked the bat. and discovered someone had put in 1 longer 3volt bat. instead of 2 1.5 volt batteries. I know you can put more amp hour bats without arm, but more volts?

8. From : peter (peter@krampitz.org)
Url : http://www.krampitz.org
Date :

hello out there, i'm looking for short information about the nikon dg-2 (magnifier). does the dg-2 fitt on a f2 dp-12 (as) finder?
it would be so nice if anybody could mail to my mail adress as soon as possible, becaus the ebay counter runs and i have no idea, where to get this special information. thank you very much in advance, peter (berlin/germany) p.s. my email is peter@krampitz.org

9. From : Rod Gordon (roderick.gordon@btinternet.com)
Url : http://
Date :

I have a similar problem to Stephen Ross's posted recently. My MD-2 Motordrive for my F2AS suddenly started to fire off immediately the black switch with the silver button (the "rewind switch") is slid upwards - as if the firing button is being held down. In fact, short of taking the batteries out, the only thing which stops the drive from advancing down from "S" to "0" on the "countdown timer knob", is pressing and holding down the firing button.

It happens regardless of whether the camera is attached or not and nothing I have tried will stop it - like cleaning all the contacts and using a new set of batteries etc. It even happens if the "grip head assembly" with the firing button is unclipped. Is this a common fault as these units age, or am I missing something!? I would be grateful for any help.

10. From : Bill (wjlapier@charter.net)
Url : http://
Date : 04:49 AM Thursday 04 March, 2004

James Lai,
thank-you for your response. the sb-16 is a nikon flash. and yes, all of my three rolls of photos are blank! i could have used my lenses only as i was using a faster film than i usually use, but i wanted to test out the flash. thanx,

bill

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