Nikon F2 Series Professional SLR camera Models

1. From : Alan Chin (profpnin@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date :

the SC-17 flash cable made by Nikon is a good addition to the AS-1 when using flash with any F2 camera. this gets the flash off of the camera and into your left hand for better directional control. i never did like the way that a flash balances on the camera when it is on the AS-1 on top of the rewind. another option, of course, is to just use a sync cord.

2. From : Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net)
Url : http://
Date :

Hi, Pete, Even though the Photomic prisms of the F2 are fitted with flash ready lights, Nikon made very few flash units designed to mate with it. The main one you can find today, and it's not easy, is the SB-7E, but they do come up for sale once and a while on eBay. The flash technology incorporated really isn't technology at all. All the light does is indicate when the flash is ready to shoot. It does not indicate correct exposure, so there's really no use in finding an F2 dedicated flash unit. Buy an AS-1 to fit over the rewind knob and buy any generic flash unit that has auto f-stop operation or, if you insist on the Nikon brand, most any of the higher spec units have the option of auto operation where the flash measures the exposure from a sensor located on the flash. An SB-20 or SB-24 would be good choices.

3. From : Pete (petekow@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date :

Hi guys, Can anyone tell me which flash unit was intended for the F2S? Thanks in advance, Pete

4. From : greg chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net)
Url : http://
Date : 10:08 AM Wednesday 09 July, 2003

Michael,

Sounds like the dreaded nylon gears used by Nikon on the MD2 and MD3 motors- it's been years since those gears were made by Nikon and I'm not sure where you can go that will definitely have the part. At this point, 20+ years since they were last manufactured, you may just have to buy a replacement MD3 that currently works- that may be the cheapest route. IF someone has the part(s) they'll most likely know what they've got and it won't be a cheap fix. The best bet in motors for the F2 will be an MD1. All the gears that were nylon in the MD2 and MD3 were all metal in the MD1, so today the MD1 is the most reliable motor to use with an F2.

5. From : Michael W. Ellison (2birdogs@bellsouth.net)
Url : http://
Date :

My MD-3 makes a gridding noise when advance the shutter. It sounds like I need to have the gears replaced in the unit. Does anyone know of someone who can make repairs to an MD-3? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Michael

6. From : Alan Chin (profpnin@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date :

one of the problems with the F2 motor drives is that they are so large compared to later cameras.... ....so i have hit on a bright idea, i wonder if any one has any suggestions or experiences: to take a MD-3 motor drive unit, remove the battery pack from underneath it, and to create a new battery pack of 4 or 5 of the new, smaller, lighter lithium 1.5v cells... (i did this with the MD-12 motor for the FM camera, i replaced the 8 AA batteries with 4 tiny lithium batteries; it makes it a lot lighter, though no less bulky)

in the case of the F2, it would make it a LOT less bulky.... any thoughts?

7. From : Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net)
Url : http://
Date :

Batteries Plus would be a good place to start. I know they re-cell the NICADS for the F2 motor drives- possibly they have something that will work, OR if you get lucky enough to find the genuine Nikon battery they can re-cell it for you. I think their website is batteriesplus.com

8. From : Richard (rbirkett@cosmur.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date :

Hi, Does any one know where I can source DN-1 batteries for my DS-12ee aperture control unit.
Thanks

9. From : luch (hoonk_42@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date :

i have a MD-2 and i need help the motor deosnt seem to want to engage to operate or film rewind is it doomed or is there hope ??? need help

10. From : Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net)
Url : http://
Date :

Hi Anthony. If you have one, you'll know the answer as to how many. I believe on the bottom there is a number that looks something like xxx/xxxx. The first number is the number of that camera. The second number is the total number of cameras made. I can't remember, but I think the total number produced was 2500. Many of the anniversary stickers have fallen off- they were glued on! There are probably owners of that series that don't even know it because those sorry stickers are no longer on the camera. The actual serial number on the camera's top plate will tell you the approximate year made. If it starts "80" then 1980 is a good bet, and so on.

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