Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.
This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia sites sponsor has no Guestbook standing on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience of visiting our site and its service, you may use the MIR's Guestbook found at another new window by clicking on the Guestbook Link.
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1. From : david (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:07 PM Monday 16 July, 2007
Hi, Does anyone out there have information about a Pentax ILX and the Pentax ILX winder? Is this similar to the LX model? Maybe a European model or something? I've never heard of an ILX. If anyone can tell me where to find information on this I would really really appreciate it. I couldn't find it on the Pentax web site...thanks, Peace and love to everybody...David2. From : Angela (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 07:48 PM Monday 09 July, 2007
Just bought my first DSLR- Pentax K100D set. Bought together with a bundle of 4 lens on Ebay. I know these are quite old non AF lenses, don't know a lot about these lens. I believe there will be somebody here familar with them. Can anyone explain how are these lenses, what they are most suitable for, how much do you think they worth? I was considering maybe sell some of them since I really don't think I need so many lenes as a starter.
These are the description of the lenes:
1. Series 1 vivitar 28-105 f 2.8 zoom, fast lens this one , heavy all metal build ,strong leather case.
2. sigma 70-210 f3.5 zoom as new this one,never used,soft leather pouch.
3. same as above but used with signs of wear but still sound with no problems.
4. 24mm f2.8 wide angle prime lens also unused. All are free from scatches clouding or fungus, not even dust specs
Any comments welcome.3. From : Jim Reilly (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:46 AM Saturday 30 June, 2007
how do I clean all the specks and dust from the inside of my pentaprism ?4. From : Jay (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 10:31 PM Wednesday 27 June, 2007
Yes, the LX can be used for up to 5 frame per second photography with the proper add-on accessories (the autowinder is 2 fps, the motor drive system is adjustable up to 5 fps). This equipment can usually be found at various used specialty shops and at ebay. You may have to have a motor drive battery pack rebuilt by a third party, or, do a word search on this site to discover the AU site that gives step by step directions for doing this yourself to the motor drive battery pack. All the original packs had CDS batteries, which are ancient mariners on the battery life voyage, meaning that such batteries if not predicably dead are no longer available (so one substitutes the newer types of cells now made). --Jay5. From : ricky (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:05 PM Monday 18 June, 2007
HI THERE,I BOUGHT A PENTAX OPTIO A20 BACK FROM AUSTRALIA AND I ACCIDENTLY DROP IT ON THE FLOOR AND NOW I CANT TURN IT ON OR OFF,CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHERE I CAN TAKE THE CAMERA TO REPAIR IN KUALA LUMPUR.THANKS6. From : Dave (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 11:03 AM Sunday 03 June, 2007
I'm new to slr cameras and am practicing with an pentax lx. can u take burst shots with this camera? Thanks!7. From : AB (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:50 AM Monday 28 May, 2007
Thanks for your input, Ivan.
I think I've identified the camera body, lead and flash gun that resulted in the failed exposures. I haven't had time to run the fairly involved tests but as I feel fairly sure the camera batteries were to blame I'm going to use the combination tomorrow. I shall take back-up shots on another body - no flash but fast film. The session is important but not critical.
I'll let you all know the results.
AB8. From : william (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 01:57 AM Thursday 17 May, 2007
Nice site! Keep up the good work.9. From : Ivan J. Eberle (Pupfish@starband.net)
Url : http://
Date : 12:11 AM Monday 14 May, 2007
I'd say that you've got some testing ahead of you until you sort out the problem and narrow down which body it came from, and take it out of pro service until you're sure you've effected a cure. Which is reason enough to have a couple of spare bodies right there, but this can also another frustrating layer of diagnostics to drill down through. Particularly when you experience a problem like this among multiple identical bodies when a problem shows up in the middle of a processed roll and you can't exactly recall what gear you were using on that exact shot.
My first thought the variable resistance pot on the exposure compensation dial. It's a mechanical wiper that contacts a coil which gets dirty and wears out eventually. Until it does, however, when the contact is merely gunked up, rocking the dial back and forth will usually cure an intermittent incorrect high metering reading.
The other usual suspect is the f4P synch cable which you're probably using with the 400T. The less-than-ideal design of the TTL contacts being surface buttons and not pins-in-sockets was a weak point to the LX system, IMO, and caused me all sorts of grief. I even went so far as to custom fabricate a clamp that put additional pressure on this union, the thread of the cables X terminal thumbscrew just didn't cut it.
Battery problems with the LX set on "A" more typically result in a mirror hang up. You could indeed set the shutter speed dial of your LX set to "X"(1/75) to circumvent this happening, though if you've still got your flash set to TTL control (TTL works on "X" as well as "A"only but until you run out of camera battery juice) you'd still be out of luck.
One of the main selling points of the LX has always been that it will function without battery power. To take advantage of this with flash, though, one pretty much has to run a comprehensive series of tests with the flash or flashes at progressively stepped manual power levels, lenses of the intended focal lengths, and a particular emulsion-- recording the settings carefully and then comparing the results and committing that knowledge to memory (best). You could also consult a cheat sheet, but the need for this is to keep shooting in fast breaking event type photography when your metering is FUBAR or the subjects are dressed in black and you have to keep shooting anyway.
For years and years I used an LX this way for flash-lit macros, mentally calculating the light loss due to various repro ratios and bracketing a half stop either way. Probably accounts for why I used only one or two emulsions during this time (K25 and K64), come to think of it. Fortunately for you, B&W negs have a lot of exposure latitude.
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Url : http://
Date : 05:25 AM Wednesday 09 May, 2007
Looks like this might answer my question, it's from the Nikon Forum:
'Cameras with electronic shutters may have problems with DL1/3N type lithium batteries. The battery may supply the correct voltage but not the milliamps under load that are required to complete the exposure cycle. The shutter may close prematurely causing exposure errors and there may be no warning but only incorrectly exposed film.
I use DL1/3N type batteries in my FM2n(s) and F2As but NOT in my FE2(s). S-76 silver oxide batteries may last longer in an FM2n under heavy use. I believe lithiums are less likely to leak but they tend to get a white powder on them that should be wiped off.
I donâ€™t use any alkaline batteries, AA or button, in any of my cameras because of the increased chance of leaking.'
Here's a link to a battery discharge graph:
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