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Pentax LX - Message Board/Guestbook

Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.

This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the
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1. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 10:03 AM Wednesday 02 April, 2003

Robert, I am sorry, I`ve invereted directions while explaining to you how to move the mirror rest up and down. If you PUSH the lever just above the first screw, rubber rest will go UP, and if you LIFT the lever just under the screw, rubber rest will go DOWN. Mico


2. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 12:23 PM Tuesday 01 April, 2003

Robert, Degree of "movement" required for mirror adjustment depends how much the rubber has been already compressed, or lever lovered, but in general it is very fine. Look closely at the part, and if there is some notable compression, you should see the tiny line in the middle of the rubber rest, running along it. If not, the lever could also be too low for some reason (loose screws, etc.) Bare on mind that very compresed rest is usually rotten too. How to move lever: place the small FLAT screw-driver just under the lever and push the lever up bu light twist. To push the lever down, press the lever lightly, just above the first screw. After the first attempt, you will realise how small move has a huge effect on the focus, so things will became more clear for you. If yuo can not see the obvious damage on the rubber rest, than just adjust the focus and do not think about it. Mico


3. From : Robert Clark (robertclark@vsnl.net)
Url : http://
Date : 08:27 PM Sunday 30 March, 2003

Mico, you are a mine of useful information - thanks for the extra detail about mirror lock and locking the shutter open. Before I go out and buy a good quality screwdriver, could you be a little more specific about how 'very little' the rest should be moved? Are we talking about hardly visible movements or something I will be able to see?

Secondly, when I look closely at the little rubber rest, it looks ok. Does that mean that it is, in theory, adjustable? If the adjustment movements are so fine, it seems to imply that any 'compression', of this rubber part, could easily be taken up by adjusting the metal rest. Is this right? How do you tell if a new/replacement part is necessary?


4. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:40 PM Sunday 30 March, 2003

Additions to MICO's instructions for lens disassembly of a K, M or A front element group retention ring with or without visible lens information on it: finding the right glass jar metal lid, which fits appropriately over the ring size, not on the threads or glass, then placing inner tube rubber on its edge so that it also folds over under tension to cover the jar lid lip makes a nifty tool for this purpose. Obviously the so equipped lid has to not touch the element glass, just the retention ring, with the rubber on it (yes, without talc). Press down and turn it, presto chango. No inappropriate slip is expected. --Jay


5. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 06:18 AM Sunday 30 March, 2003

Robert, I`ve oredered that par( 24000-B115) first from Pentax Europe in late 80`s and later, when I moved to Montreal, from Pentax Canada. You can also make it from the piece of rubber, but I prefer the original part. Measures are very important factor whether you will be able to adjust the focus with the hand-made part at all. Yes, adjusting is hit and miss, but that is the same even for the Pentax technicians. Altought a bit less, since they do not have to put a lens on the camera (special device developed for adjustment).

Loosed first screw allowes you to move the lever which holds B115 Up and Down. But , the movement required for adjustment is VERY fine. Also, loose the first screw so the lever can stay in the position for a while until you check the focus at infinity. If you loose it too much, lever will slip down each time and will make the whole process more boring. Again, be very carefull. Good idea is to put the exposure dial to "B", press the shutter and, while holding it, lock it by turning the shutter release LOCK button. So, in case that your screw-driver slips, you won`t damage the shuttr curtain. Maybe the shutter curtain guide, but not the shutter itself. Not to mention that all this has to be done with mirror locked up. Hope this will help, Mico


6. From : Robert Clark (robertclark@vsnl.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:07 AM Sunday 30 March, 2003

So Mico, you've replaced the mirror cushion three times. It sounds tricky, at the very least. Where did you get the part to replace it from? When adjusting the first screw, is it a matter of adjusting, then looking to see if it focuses at infinity, and if it's not, then readjusting? It sounds a little hit and miss.


7. From : Anton (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:03 PM Friday 28 March, 2003

Thanks Mico, I've printed off your instructions and will proceed next week. AB


8. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 01:14 PM Friday 28 March, 2003

Anton, First you have to remove the metal ring that bears the lens name and a serial number. Best way to do that is to cut two pieces of bike inner tube, aprox. 4x4 cm. Wash them and remove all traces of talc in order to provide a maximum grip. Place the rubber at the two opposite sides and press with your thumbs. Unscrew as you would do with the filter, just be carefull not to cut your fingers against the filter thread. Hope your lens hasn`t been bumped, because with damaged filter thread, removing lens ring could be difficult. When you lift up the ring, you`ll see three little screws. Unscrew them, and now you can take off the front part of the lens barrel, the one which has the filter thread. Now, you can see another three screws (all with tiny cooper washers ) and here we are... Before you proceed, turn the focusing ring to unfinity and tape it to the fixed part of the lens barrel.

Make sure that focusing ring is fixed to infinity and than loose JUST A BIT screws I mentioned above. Put the lens on your most trusted body and adjust lens focus on infinity by turning the front elements with your fingers. Helicoid tube has been disconected from the focusing ring , so you can turn it indipendetly. Tight the screws, lightly one by one, in a few circular turns, and you are done. Puting everything back in order is very easy.

All I explained applies on all K,M and A lenses from 20mm to 135mm (all lenses with lens ID ring placed frontaly). Others, especially long telephotos are different. Also, F lenses in the same range are easy to adjust, even short zooms, but FA lenses are less "user friendly" assembled. Hope this will help, Mico


9. From : Anton (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:33 PM Thursday 27 March, 2003

Mico, yes my 35 in an M... I'm intrigued. AB


10. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 01:41 PM Thursday 27 March, 2003

About replacing mirror rest...

Robert, I did that at least three times, and with original part (B115). To place the part properly, the whole set which holds the rubber rest has to be removed. That means, you have to unscrew two tiny Philips-type screws that holds it. That requires very good hands and very good screw-driver (Philips-type, size "00" with cca. 90mm handle + at least 50mm long tip). Taiwan-made tools are strongly NOT recomended! The access angle is very awkward, so here is the point when all improvisations end. Any mistake or slip- and shutter curtain is dead. First screw is for adjustment and for securing the final set-up, and the second one holds everything attached to the mirror wall.

So, even if you do not want to remove everything, and just want to place the original/hand -made part, final mirror adjustment is a must. For that, you need the "reference" lens , or the lens for which you are shure that focus properly on infinity. I use 50mm f.1,7 and 100mm .f2,8. So, loose a bit the first screw and try to lift or pull down the mirror rest position. By lifting, you are turning the focus forward, by pulling down, focus goes back (like you can not focus on infinity). When you get pin-point focus on infiniy, just tight the first screw and that is it. Sometimes, the second screw has to be loosen too, but only to the point that you can manouver the mirror rest. If that happens, after the set-up, first tight the second and then the first screw.

Anton, if your 35mmf.2.8 lens is K,M or A, your focus problem can be solved in 15 min. without any risk.Let me know...Mico


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Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Tony Davies-Patrick (Globetrotter) (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com); Mico Smiljanic (micolx@netscape.net);
Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com); Philip Ashman (genesisphil@hotmail.com)

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