Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.
This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia sites sponsor has no Guestbook standing on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience of visiting our site and its service, you may use the MIR's Guestbook found at another new window by clicking on the Guestbook Link.
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1. From : Jay (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:58 AM Sunday 01 August, 2004
And this raises an interesting issue:Camera repair when traveling. Sometimes it is far cheaper to put the camera in your suitcase, and purchase another abroad. And, with hindsight, carry a spare or a spare body. Professionals generally carry spares, even on certain lenses, in case of theft or breakdown. The predictability of repair in a shop in remote areas, or in third world lands, is also up for grabs. So, you may wait to get an estimate on a repair on your return to a larger resource-based nation. This is probably wisdom as to predictability of outcome, reliability, and validity of attempt.
Unfortunately the point and shoot zoom cameras have limited repair availability time frames. Even a two year old unit is oftentimes "not fixable". The lifetime of such consumer goods is limited as to available maintenance, parts, and people who are trained to work on given cameras. These then soon become, throw-away units. An SLR, with interchangeable lenses these days, can be almost equally as lightweight, and has a longer product lifetime. People on this site are keen for optics and bodies up to 30 years old. The reliability and workability of such are often preferred over the latest point and shoots, even with newer bells and whistles. Even digital cameras vary at the same pixel rating as to sensor quality, results, parts availability, and repairability. Clearly SLRs have longer working lifetimes and can fix, can do ratios.
John Hedgecoe, the British Photoeducator, just came out with his latest how to photography book, and has, for the very first time, featured a ZX (MZ) S 5n, or 3, instead of an LX. This camera, it seems, was chosen because it kind of replicates LX controls, and offers others as well. It is hard to change over, when a good thing is working, to something as yet unproven and not known for its working kindness in the field. n LX is like a fine violin, ready to give its best in the right hands. Sadly, the autofocus camera John chose for his latest book, is no longer being made by Pentax, as replaced by push button units over dials.
What are some of our contributors experiences with repairs while traveling?--Jay2. From : Jay (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 12:35 AM Sunday 01 August, 2004
A., Getting a circuit wiring diagram can be tricky. Where are you on vacation? If you go to the Pentax USA website, under customer service is a link list of international distributor service centers. You will have to contact one and request a fax of the diagram. In my experience Pentax USA's agents have faxed such to me in previous attempts for such, but there are no guarantees. They often pick up the tab for such a call. In Timbuktu, who will? You have to go to a center that has the diagram, persuade someone to copy it, fax it, and make it yours, good luck. --Jay3. From : Arshia (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:32 PM Friday 30 July, 2004
i'm looking for a circuit diagram of my pentax iqz 200. on holiday and need it fast! if anyone knows whom to contact or if you have one, please email me with info!!
thanks...4. From : Dan (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 04:16 AM Thursday 29 July, 2004
Thanks for the input. Sounds like I have some experimenting to do to see what new films I like. If I could get video stills that look like the old Kodachrome25 with deep blacks and reds that pop, I would be very happy. Alas, I am sure there is not much hope of reproducing the color in video color space. Thank heavens NTSC has a limited life left (how are you PAL folks doing?)!5. From : Jay (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:38 PM Wednesday 28 July, 2004
Dan, I agree with Ian, and would add Fuji Velvia, now at ISO 100 or 50, as two high saturation emulsions. Kodachrome is long surpassed for choice for nature work by professionals. It is still a pretty good people film. But E6 emulsions have been prevalent, even in National Geographic publications, for a good ten plus years now. For Final Cut Pro and DVD Pro video editing it is uncanny background material: as imported through Photoshop CS. The layers offer editing interactivity results. Minolta also makes a scanner which takes both 120 and 35mm, which would work well for this intention. Avoid earlier versions, which did not offer the current density rendering that now surpasses that of film itself. It is not radically pricey, but is more than the 5400 for sure. --Jay6. From : Ian (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 09:15 AM Wednesday 28 July, 2004
Dan, yes, Kodachrome 64 is still worth using. You won't have a problem matching HD definition with the Minolta 5400, but pay very careful attention to your colourspace when outputting for HDTV. Ektachrome thankfully, has moved on some. You can forget expecting the blue. My recommendation would be E100G or E100GX (warmer). Kodachrome 64, whilst having slightly larger grain (RMS 10) than E100G (RMS 8), is still sharper looking. Correctly processed and scanned, you will not be disappointed by either. BTW, I've had no problems scanning Kodachrome with the 5400. - Ian.7. From : GLOBETROTTER (email@example.com)
Url : http://globetrotterworld.co.uk
Date : 05:25 AM Wednesday 28 July, 2004
Just managed to buy a Minolta 5400 scanner on Ebay and both Chez and I are looking forward to doing some test scans with some of our favourite colour transparencies and negatives. I'll keep you posted of our results.8. From : Dan (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 04:56 AM Wednesday 28 July, 2004
Oops, the Minolta 5400 won't work for me (see my previous post). I need a scanner that will scan my 120 (6x8) negs as well. Is there a good scanner out there for both 35mm and 6x8 that won't break the pocket book?9. From : Dan (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:42 AM Wednesday 28 July, 2004
I have been reading all the discussion about slide scanners and have really enjoyed the information you are all posting. I would like a little advice if any are willing to give. I have recently jumped backed into photography after departing to video for a while. I just recently scored a bunch of LX equipment and lenses and I am excited to put it to use. I want to shoot stills for use as backrounds in video. So my main goal will be shooting slides and scanning (can't afford an ist-D yet). The results must be sharp for High Def.
When I was heavy into photography, Kodachrome was the film to use. Echtachrome was way too blue and I only used it if I needed to process it myself. Fuji was just coming to the US but their color was way too cool and saturated. Now it seems like there are a lot more choices and developments in film. I will mainly be shooting scenics, nature, and wildlife, but some architecture and people, too. After reading reviews, the Nikon scanner looks to be excellant, but it does not work well with Kodachrome and is more expensive. So I will probably get a used Minolta 5400 on eBay. So if you have read this so far, you are probably wondering what advice I am looking for. Well here are my questions: Is Kodachrome still worth using, or are their better films for warmth, color accuracy, and color saturation? What film will work best with the Minolta and which will work best with the Nikon? Are there problems with used scanners, like bulbs that shift color because of use? Naturally, this will be all shot with the LX, if that matters. Most of my glass is SMC-M or SMC-A.10. From : Jay (firstname.lastname@example.org)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124 | 125 | 126 | 127 | 128 | 129 | 130 | 131 | 132 | 133 | 134 | 135 | 136 | 137 | 138 | 139 | 140 | 141 | 142 | 143 | 144 | 145 | 146 | 147 | 148 | 149 | 150 | 151 | 152 | 153 | 154 | 155 | 156 | 157 | 158 | 159 | 160 | 161 | 162 | 163 | 164 | 165 | 166 | 167 | 168 | 169 | 170 | 171 | 172 | 173 | 174 | 175 | 176 | 177 | 178 | 179 | 180 | 181 | 182 | 183 | 184 | 185 | 186 | 187 | 188 | 189 | 190 | 191 | 192 | 193 | 194 | 195 | 196 | 197 | 198 | 199 | 200 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 205 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 215 | 216 | 217
Url : http://
Date : 01:32 PM Tuesday 27 July, 2004
Tony. As he is just across the channel from you, go for it. Ha. --Jay
Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
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