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Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Pentax LX - Message Board/Guestbook

Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.

This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the
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1. From : GLOBETROTTER (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:01 PM Sunday 09 March, 2003

Thanks for those comments, Jay. I've never really though about the curved outer element of lenses such as the 15mm being the main problem and have always concentrated more on the need to eliminate the dark corners (vignetting) in photos. I can see what you are getting at. I also understand that there are some situations which need more careful use or alignment of the polarizer filter (such as angle to light, high altitude mountain photos, vibrancy of film used etc). I do of course always normally take a considerable time twisting the polarizer filter back and forth until I'm satisifed with the image through the viewfinder before pressing the shutter release. Mayby that is the main reason why I rarely get uneven skies in my shots, rather than that the problem doesn't exist. Another lens - the 28mm F/3.5 perspective control lens - also has a very curved outer element. It does not allow front-mounted screw filters, yet a 77mm-thread polarizer filter slips tightly into the outer fringes of the petal hood, and also allows the filter to be twisted for normal effect. Again, like Jay said, this places the actual polorizer filter (larger than the outer glass thread) further away from the lens glass. Maybe this helped me from avoiding problems with this lens. I haven't tried the same with a Pantax 15mm. I wonder if the petal hood of the SMC-A 15mm is the same as the 28mm PC hood? Anybody know if it is?


2. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:15 PM Sunday 09 March, 2003

I lied, here is another comment on polarizers and UWA rectalinears: the 67mm filter cuts the corners on the 24mm image mentioned by others (and perhaps the edges) because of what I am trying to point out about spheres with optical flats in front of their front elements. Going to a 77mm filter changes what I am referring to. This too may prohibit true polarization all the way across the frontal sphere, but there will be substantial improvement over the smaller filter's lack of being on axis to the complete front element sphere mm to mm (It cannot be flat and truly polarize all the imaging light gathered by spherical elements of extreme WAs, in fact most WAs). It would have to be shaped the same as that sphere not to have light fall-off, corner clip, and failure at across the image polarization. --JH


3. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:59 PM Sunday 09 March, 2003

My last comment on UWA Polarization. What Micro points out does confirm that the entire image is not polarized, but a portion of it, this is the rub. There will always be some result of polarization, not the same as from 40mm and up. I actually have an amazing cloud hemisphere shot using a polarizer on a 20mm f4 M, but only a portion of it is truly polarized. This information prohibits noone from using it as they choose. --Jay


4. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 10:26 AM Sunday 09 March, 2003

I use standard 67mm filter and I can not see any vigneting (like I had with the old Takumar 24mmF3,5 and polarizer). FA 24 F.2 has much more space around glass to prevent vigneting, at least from my point of view. Uneven sky colour can occure even on 35mm lens if you are not carefull. It is just about the angle under which the light passes throught the polarizer and than gets collected by the wide angle optics. Light is all but consistent under that circumstances, so polarizer has to be adjusted carefully to minimize that. I`ve got a few of those ugly samples recently when I was in rush and not concentrated enought with my 24mm lens and polarizer.


5. From : GLOBETROTTER (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:05 PM Saturday 08 March, 2003

Mico - which size of filter do you use on the Pentax FA* 24mm F/2? I use a larger 77mm thread filter in combination with a step-down ring. This cured most of my earlier problems with uneven sky colour, or vignetting.


6. From : Mico (mico@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 10:10 AM Saturday 08 March, 2003

Jay, I must agree with Globetrotter. I`ve just returned from the assignement which heavilly involved FA 24mm/2 +polarizer , and I can not immagine my picures without that filter. Real problem related with polarizers used on wide and ultra-wide lenses is sometimes ugly and uneven illumination of the sky.


7. From : choeN (not@this.one)
Url : http://
Date : 10:31 AM Friday 07 March, 2003

why is there no FA 85mm f/2 lens? Sigh.


8. From : GLOBETROTTER (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:03 PM Thursday 06 March, 2003

Jay - I would have to totally disagree with your advice that a polorizer filter makes no difference when using wide-angle lenses (and I am not saying this to offend). I use this particular filter (sometimes even together with a graduated filter) for a lot of my work - and there are no doubts that photos of the same scene or subject taken without using the polarizer are far inferior. There are occasions when a polarizer is not required, but for a lot of my photography, the use of that important filter depends on it to maximise results, and sales potential of resultant images.


9. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:11 AM Thursday 06 March, 2003

Not to clash with one of the other guys who shares much savy, but a polarizer is not really needed for most WAs and, especially not for ultra WAs. Nothing much is gained because of the general design factors of this type of lens. Focal lengths of about 40mm and up gain saturation from dedicated opposing ND optical flats filter-mounted line-type (manufacturer formed as opposing polarized rings or horizontals) polarization from polarizers. The optical group spheres and rectilinear opposites of most WA designs cannot actually render polarization from a front optical flat filter. Check out the blue sky with teles and WAs, and you'll note the WAs have greater saturation at the outset, without filtration (unless shooting directly into the light source). By the way, an 18mm lens on the new Pentax DSLR will be the equivalent of a 28mm for 135mm film cameras. The 15 will be about a 23mm. The 15 is a good lens, as is the 18mm, but not much coverage is gained over a 20mm from the 18mm. The 20mm will be easier to use, and better corrected yet. M series up 20mms from Pentax are as good as or better than any other 20mms made--actually outstanding in most cases.--Jay


10. From : Jorge Nunez (jnunez@ap.org)
Url : http://
Date : 09:46 PM Wednesday 05 March, 2003

Thank you all for the discussion going here. Very informative. Question, does anybody know if there is a lens adapter that can go from K mount to Nikon lenses for the LX? tnx Jorge


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Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Tony Davies-Patrick (Globetrotter) (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com); Mico Smiljanic (micolx@netscape.net);
Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com); Philip Ashman (genesisphil@hotmail.com)

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