PEntax LX 250 Bulk Film Back.jpg (17k)

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Pentax LX - Message Board/Guestbook

Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.

This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the
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1. From : Neohyperion (
Url :
Date : 12:36 AM Tuesday 30 January, 2007

Light Tape® Light tape
revolutionary concept
=great for darkrooms=-

2. From : Philip Ashman (
Url : http://
Date : 04:41 PM Thursday 25 January, 2007

I too was concerned that the new K10D (which I have bought) no longer supports TTL auto flash and the new P-TTL auto is only found on 2 Pentax flashguns (AF360FGZ & AF540FGZ). Consequently any other flashguns without P-TTL can only be used on manual.
The only flashguns I use for my photography is the AF080C macro ringflash and on my new K10D I can now only use it on either full output, or the 1/4 output setting.
As I do actually only use it for macro work with my Pentax 100mm f2.8 macro lens, or my Sigma 105mm f2.8 macro and also primarily only then at full macro (1:1) focussing for insect photography, I am hoping that I will get decent exposures stopped down to f32 (which will give most DOF) with the full manual flash setting in most cases. This bearing in mind that the increased flash sync speed of 1/180th sec may offset the more powerful manual full flash output that I will be stuck with due to no TTL compatibility, at least in most outdoor lighting situations and normal daylight. Initial tests I have done seem to indicate I am correct and results encouraging. Should I find that at times in certain strong lighting situations outdoors I am getting overexposure, then I reckon that I could utilise a Neutral Density filter to correct the situation, but that would be rather experimental in itself.
I am hoping that either Pentax, or maybe an independent like Sigma, bring out a new ringflash compatible with the P-TTL setting on the K10D, or better still that Pentax bring out some firmware that will enable the K10D to be updated to allow it to work with the older TTL flash settings - but I doubt that somehow.
For now it's a case of trial and error out in the field.


3. From : Mico (
Url : http://
Date : 06:17 AM Thursday 25 January, 2007

I think that TTL mentioned in the review is the old one, just
"plain" TTL which can use old Pentax flashes (AF280T for example)
but K10 for sure has the new (P-TTL?)system. Canon has new E-TTLII flash system,I am not sure if it works with Canon`s old flashes. M.

4. From : Jarek (
Url :
Date : 04:51 AM Sunday 21 January, 2007

Thanks Jay, unfortunately I live in Poland, but I'll try to ask someone I know from the States to do me a favor. Do you by any chance know the symbol/number of this item?



5. From : jack (
Url : http://
Date : 09:25 PM Saturday 20 January, 2007

great site. i think i might enjoy taking up photography.

6. From : Jay (
Url : http://
Date : 12:56 AM Saturday 20 January, 2007


Where you live can help you get the part simply, or not so. Pentax Imaging (USA) has it, as it can be ordered via Visa or MC over their toll free line in Golden, Colorado (ask for parts, and use a business name related to photography repair in order to be quickly authorized to buy parts directly, in addition to a care of personal name for shipment). Probably the shipment will be as much or more than such a part as what you pay for it alone. --Jay

7. From : jarek orlowski (
Url :
Date : 09:27 PM Thursday 18 January, 2007


I lost the exposure compensation indicator, that is a round, thin strip of plastic that is glued on top of the Film Speed/Exposure Compensation dial - the thingie with "ASA", compensation values and dots embossed on it.

The question is - does anyone have a wrecked, destroyed, smashed to pieces LX, from which one could remove that thingie and sell it to me? Whenever I look at my LX, I can't get rid of this annoying feeling of dissatisfaction which it drives me mad ;-).



8. From : Jay (
Url : http://
Date : 01:45 PM Thursday 18 January, 2007

Thanks Tony, for steering us to the user review of the K10D. One note for contemplation is that he notes its increased noise in shots over those of the 6MP *istDS. He then addresses a hope that Pentax will fix this. The fact is that the technology of the digital sensor array in any digital camera increases noise with an increase in pixel rendering size. In other words, a 14MP camera will have more noise per a given ISO than a 10MP camera, as will a 10MP camera have more than a 6MP camera...on down. To change this is not up to Pentax, but by changing the sensor technology embraced by the entire industry. Canon's sensors have less noise than Nikon, Sony, and Pentax by the choice of technology employed in sensor construction and constitution.

He notes too the move away from TTL flash, and the absence of a sensor for this in all Pentax DSLR cameras, except the *istD. Any thoughts on this trend and its relationship to the technology involved in digital SLR cameras as light acquiring sensors evolve? He finds the viewfinder easier to use for manual focus lenses than say, a Canon D20 or D30. I wonder, though, if Canon and Nikon have included TTL flash in their various models? Forum members, do you have any thoughts on this? TTL is a very valuable fill light feature of many film cameras. --Jay

Url :
Date : 05:31 PM Tuesday 16 January, 2007

Here is a nice REVIEW on the new PENTAX K10D by Sean Carpenter:

10. From : Mico (
Url : http://
Date : 05:58 AM Thursday 04 January, 2007

Hello all,
Since there is still enough LX cameras alive, focus problem is
a common place. I will post again my advice how to adjust focus on troubled LX, and again, BE CAREFULL, do not drink or eat few hours before adjustment!
Fortunately, I was able to find it in my computer, since there is no more SEARCH option on LX Message Board.
Replacing compressed or rotten mirror rest (part No. B115 ) is another issue, if I find that one it could be nice too. So, here is the complete procedure.

There are two screws which are responsible for mirror position. Both are located on the left side of LX`s mirror chamber, camera facing you. The whole set-up looks quite daunting, and it really is. The mirror rest (tiny peace of rubber) is sitting on top of it.

First screw is for adjustment and for securing the final set-up, and the second one holds everything attached to the mirror chamber wall.

For focus adjustment, one needs decent PRIME lens, preferably 50mm-200mm.
Zooms are out of question since they do not have fixed focus at any given focal
length. The reference lens MUST be tested on other camera(s) and be pin-point
while focused at infinity. I find that any type of acetate, paper and alike is too
subjective and inaccurate way to adjust focus (how do you know that your eye
is not out of focus?) And finally, standard SC-21 or any other split-screen
should be used.

So, loose a bit the first screw (one closer to the bayonet mount)and try to lift or pull down the mirror rest position. By lifting, you are turning the focus forward (you can pass the focus at infinity), by pulling down, focus goes back (like you can not reach infinity). When you get pin-point focus on infinity, just tight the first screw and that is it. Sometimes, the second screw has to be loosen too, but only to the point that you can move the mirror rest. If that happens, after the final set-up, tight the second screw first and the one closer to the bayonet mount later.

Loosed first screw allow you to move the lever which holds mirror rest Up and Down. But , the movement required for adjustment is VERY fine. Also, loose the first screw so the lever can stay in the position for a while until you check the focus at infinity. If you loose it too much, lever will slip down each time and will make the whole process more boring. Again, be very careful. Good idea is to put the exposure dial to "B", press the shutter and, while holding it, lock it by turning the shutter release LOCK button. So, in case that your screw-driver slips, you won`t damage the shutter curtain. Maybe the shutter curtain guide, but not the shutter itself. Not to mention that all this has to be done with mirror locked up.

Degree of "movement" required for mirror adjustment depends how much the rubber has been already compressed, or lever lowered, but in general it is very fine. Look closely at the rubber part, and if there is some notable compression, you should see the tiny line in the middle of the rubber rest, running along it. If not, the lever could also be too low for some reason (loose screws, etc.) Bare on mind that very compressed rest is usually rotten too. How to move lever: place the small FLAT screw-driver just under the first screw and push the lever up by light twist. Focus will go “back”, like no focus at infinity. To move the lever UP, press the lever lightly, just above the first screw, so focus will go forward and allow you to focus at infinity. After the first attempt, you will realise how small move has a huge effect on the focus, so things will became more clear for you.. This Up-Down movement and the effect it does, does not seem to be too logical at the first, so concentration and patience is needed. Good luck! Mico

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Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Tony Davies-Patrick (Globetrotter) (; Mico Smiljanic (;
Jay Hart (; Philip Ashman (

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