Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.
This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia sites sponsor has no Guestbook standing on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience of visiting our site and its service, you may use the MIR's Guestbook found at another new window by clicking on the Guestbook Link.
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1. From : Jay (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:49 AM Friday 24 February, 2006
AB, Yes, this is definitely one of the last mass run LX bodies. I have one here, represented as such when gotten from Pentax ten years back or so, #53395XX. The advantage is the shutter mechanism is the very best run. I've never had any difficulties with this body, other than the soft, easily scratched finish. So, film still being out there, you did well. Mine, at the time was USD 500.00. There usually is great competition for the mint bodies advertised on ebay within the USA>Going for twice what you paid. So, embrace it with joy! --Jay2. From : AB (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 10:02 PM Thursday 23 February, 2006
Arrgh! So I don't follow my own advice, I promised myself - and recommended to others - that LX's should only be bought from a local shop on the strict understanding that it could be returned for a full refund if any problems emerged. But... I have won an LX from a German eBayer for £205 (Euro 300 USD 357) the camera is apparently in good condition and interestingly the serial number is 5360*** an LX collector contacted me and reckons this must be one of the last productions (for Europe at least) any thoughts?
I'm really hoping that this is not going to be another faulty one, I could probably send it back because I believe it is a shop but that would be quite a hassle. When it arrives I shall test it thoroughly and if all seems well, I may send it to Robin for his fixed price service and securitisation on the test bench or... I may just leave well alone and get on and use it. Will let y'all know once it has arrived.
AB3. From : Jay (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:46 PM Friday 17 February, 2006
Here in the American West where would we be without the arising moon? The nearer a photograph is made to the land horizon, the atmosphere will act as a lens, and magnify its presence in a scene, even--in dry heat--distort and make ominous a low emerging moon. This often dominates mountains and deserts in some distinct West photographs. When it arises, or, conversely as the sun is setting, its color will glow from red, then orange, yellow, finally a gray white. As it seems to float upward, it becomes more circular, assuming its familiar night sky portion smaller and smaller, and with calendar cycles. Craters of the moon are usually primarily visible against the dark sky, and in risen sky placement. What one does with these realities depends on timing, lens choice, and what one wishes to graphically value in a shot or scene. --Jay4. From : GLOBETROTTER (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://www.wilderness-photo.co.uk
Date : 06:52 AM Friday 17 February, 2006
I tend not to meter for the moon and prefer to rely on my own judgement by setting shutter and aperture manually.
Moon shots are not always best taken at night, and I often take photos of the moon during the daytime – so that it becomes a natural part of the landscape. One of my favourite shots of the moon (published double page in my latest book) was an early morning exposure taken as the moon peeped over the high rocky pinnacles of the Cascades in Washington State USA, using a Pentax A* 300 f/4 + converter clamped to a sturdy Manfrotto tripod and Pro Ballhead + Pentax LX with mirror lock-up.
I’ve also had some really good results using the SMC 500mm f/4.5 (on the Pentax Super A, Pentax LX, or Pentax Z1p) and the Nikkor 600mm f/5.6 ED-IF (on Nikon F5). Most of the time I try to lock the mirror up, and also use a remote cable or infrared release to maintain sharpness. A Fuji Velvia 50 ISO image of the moon, taken with care, should be able to be scanned up to a large 200MB Tiff file and still maintain good sharpness and detail in the craters.
5. From : Philip Ashman (email@example.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:54 AM Friday 17 February, 2006
On the subject of Lunar photography (at night!), I used to take nearly full frame images by attaching my LX body to an Astronmical Reflector Telescope with an adaptor and got some pretty good full frame images and even closer crater/mountain shots. However, as the LX had no lens attached I was in effect not able to control DOF and the shots were simply the reflections from the telescope mirrors onto the film plane. Never seemed quite sharp enough especially at the edges.
I found that with a lot of practice I could get much better clear and sharp images using a small Nikon 2.1 megapixel digital camera hand held against the telescope eyepiece and allow the autofocus to snap onto the moon image. Very hit and miss, but with digital it didn't matter if I took say a hundred shots, as I tended to get half a dozen good ones each session. Of course you can get adapters now for a lot of digital cameras that allow you to fix them to Astronomical Telescopes and get very good images indeed.
One other point though is that when the camera meter (set on aperture priority) records the light from a bright moon, near full frame) you need to then manually adjust and underexpose by at least 1.5 or 2 stops when using slide film or digital. Otherwise you fail to properly record the dark areas of the moon (craters/mountains) and end up with just a bright disc with few features. Also having to underexpose can be a bonus as it increases the shutter speed and helps to avoid camera shake if hand holding. Certainly at ISO100 using the above method should easily allow shutter speeds of 1/125th sec and more at f5.6 depending on how much of the moon fills the frame.
It's a fascinating type of photography but can be very frustrating to master.
Philip6. From : firstname.lastname@example.org (email@example.com)
Url : http://www.anzwers.org/free/propecia
Date : 12:51 AM Thursday 16 February, 2006
a550338e4f4cd7fc1dd1a709cc932bf07. From : GLOBETROTTER (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://www.wilderness-photo.co.uk
Date : 07:57 PM Wednesday 15 February, 2006
Sorry, I forgot to mention in the last post, that both the landscape and moon shots should be exposed on the same frame of film.
Another method is to sandwich two shots (landscape + moon)and make a slide copy.
A third option is to make a digital double exposure using Adbobe Photoshop CS2.8. From : GLOBETROTTER (email@example.com)
Url : http://www.globalphoto.co.uk
Date : 07:50 PM Wednesday 15 February, 2006
A full moon is normally very bright, and can often be taken at 1/125th second shutter speed. This will keep it sharp and circular. I've taken some great shots with lenses ranging from 24mm to 600mm+ with Pentax SLRs and up to 4,500mm (equivalent 35mm SLR) using DV equipment.
By exposing correctly for the moon using wide angle lenses will cause the landscape to become completely underexposed. To make a perfect night image of both landscape and moon, first take an exposure of the moon (preferable with a telephoto lens) and frame the moon itself in the top right or left corner of the photo. Then change lens to a wide angle (15mm-35mm) and do a longtime exposure of the same scene (this time without the actual moon inside the frame). This will provide a stunning photo of both moon and landscape correctly exposed with full detail and no blurring of the moon (remember to use a tripod!).
The Pentax LX is very good for moon shots and all night photography (probably the best of all cameras for this type of work).
9. From : Jay (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Url : http://
Date : 02:18 PM Tuesday 14 February, 2006
As for moon and star photography. Star shots in particular require a telescope tripod tracking clock mechanism to not be captured as simply streaks on film. The moon too will be stretched oblong by any necessary timed shooting (or not if filling the frame and shooting at 1/60 or above). Almost all these stellulars will require you to put the shutter speed on B, for bulb. Since you have a roll to use, try different exposure times, on a determined apeture setting, on infinity focus. It is essential to be on a camera tripod, or auto window mount (without moving around in the auto during exposure), and to use a shutter release cord for long needed exposures.
Writings on how to do these shots, depending on the lens being used, abound on the internet. I would suggest using an internet search engine through your web browser access (such as Google, Yahoo, etc.).
If you just have gear to do the streaked star shots, by default, it is fun to shoot these and note their colors: which physicists have determined give spectral information as to what the stars are actually composed of (again find information on the net). A few years ago, my then teenage son and I went a few miles up into the mountains here, set up a tripod and did some bulb shots for these spectral shots. Otherwise, a long lens for the moon and wider lens for the stars can be used. Get well away from the light pollution of large cities for the best results. Good shooting, Jay10. From : Jay (email@example.com)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124 | 125 | 126 | 127 | 128 | 129 | 130 | 131 | 132 | 133 | 134 | 135 | 136 | 137 | 138 | 139 | 140 | 141 | 142 | 143 | 144 | 145 | 146 | 147 | 148 | 149 | 150 | 151 | 152 | 153 | 154 | 155 | 156 | 157 | 158 | 159 | 160 | 161 | 162 | 163 | 164 | 165 | 166 | 167 | 168 | 169 | 170 | 171 | 172 | 173 | 174 | 175 | 176 | 177 | 178 | 179 | 180 | 181 | 182 | 183 | 184 | 185 | 186 | 187 | 188 | 189 | 190 | 191 | 192 | 193 | 194 | 195 | 196 | 197 | 198 | 199 | 200 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 205 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 215 | 216 | 217
Url : http://
Date : 02:03 PM Tuesday 14 February, 2006
Yes, find in our text above (as underlined): index page of Pentax LX website. Select it with your left mouse button. It will bring up our Mir site Pentax LX index page. Look toward the bottom for the list of instruction manual choices to visit. Select the last choice: Other models and system accessories. This will take you to the Pentax Imaging USA literature section of their website. It is a hyperlink to there. Scroll down the list until you find 35mm SLRs, and find yours. You can download a manual free there of most Pentax products: past and present. --Jay
Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Tony Davies-Patrick (Globetrotter) (firstname.lastname@example.org); Mico Smiljanic (email@example.com);
Jay Hart (firstname.lastname@example.org); Philip Ashman (email@example.com)
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