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Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Pentax LX - Message Board/Guestbook

Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.

This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the
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1. From : Ian (ian@ity.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 09:52 AM Tuesday 11 November, 2003

Thanks Anton. I'm happy to hear that it's as sweet a lens as it sounds. I'll be keeping my eye out for one. - Ian


2. From : Anton (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 07:46 AM Monday 10 November, 2003

Ian I find the SMC-A 35-105 to be a very good lens It is sharp, bold and contrasty and the close focus feature is handy. I think it makes and excellent all-purpose, mid-range zoom. 28mm at the wide end would be nice and a constant f2.8 would be great but then it would be bigger, heftier and very expensive, as it is, it is a great compromise. Go get. Anton


3. From : Bill Tallman (wtallman@olypen.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:23 AM Sunday 09 November, 2003

Hi Mico, Heartened by your comments, I decided I was possibly spooking myself. So, checking out the ASA dial and the aperture actuator, and finding them nominal, I decided to quantify this matter. Got out my LunaPro SBC and took them both out to meter the wall of the house. They agreed!! Apparently, my eyeballs are seriously out of calibration... lol!!!! So I'm running a roll of film through it. If it doesn't come out as expected, I'll proceed from there. At this point, I suspect I've over-reacted. Thanks much for your response! Bill Tallman


4. From : Ian (ian@ity.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 06:23 AM Sunday 09 November, 2003

I'm thinking of complimenting my M24-35 F3.5 with another zoom (having lost my M50/1.7 to fungus). I'll still carry the Hoya 135/2.8 but I'd like something that crossed 50mm. I was thinking the A35-105/3.5 looks good. I just like the idea of the working consistancy (both constant apature (3.5)). However, since I'm only looking to buy one lens, I'd like to place a preferance on quality. I don't know how the M24-35 rates, I've always been more than happy with it's results. It's one lens I'd never sell. Is the 35-105 of similar quality? Advise welcome.


5. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 11:49 AM Friday 07 November, 2003

Bill, first, I do not think that your LX has been damaged by heat if it was in the bag. Your bag should have burned to the ground to pass enought heat to damage Lx`s circuits. LX is not a tender flower... My LXs vere sometimes very hot, exposed to direct sunlight for hours. Imagine F1 race in Montreal, external temperature (measured in the shadow) 35 C, and humidity of 85%. I could have made roasted eggs on top of my finder cover... Pro camera like LX was designed for that. You can try this , for the start: run your ASA dial from 6 to 3200 ASA few times. Than, remove the lens and, by your finger, run 5-6 times lens aperture coupler, from one side to another. It is located on the right side of LX`s lens mount, sorry if you are familiar with that. And, use hand-held meter or other camera to check if the meter is not working properly. Finally, waste one slide film for test, using one half on Manual mode and the other one on AUTO. After, you will have more info to deal with...Hope this will help. M.


6. From : Bill Tallman (wtallman@olypen.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:27 AM Friday 07 November, 2003

I fear I have damaged my beloved LX! It's been sitting on a tripod in a window, prepared to get bird shots should some show up. Today I saw a squirrel, and discovered that the shutter speed was inordinately slow, and this with ASA 800 film taking a shot of a shaded, semi sunlight area at f4.5. It indicated a speed of 1/30, which struck me a strange, and when I took the shot it seemed like the actual speed was more like a second or so.

As it was the first frame on the film, I removed it from the tripod and unloaded it. Put the standard lens (50mm f1.4) on, set the ASA at 100, and went outside to see what it thought about a scene in direct sunlight. Set at f16, it showed a shutter speed of 1/30 - 1/60. Probably at least 2 stops slow, and probably not linearly so as well. So I thought back to see what had happened and remembered that the camera bag had sat near a heat vent and had gotten warm. I've no idea how hot the camera got at any one point, but that was the only thing I could think of that might cause this problem. The camera was never in direct sunlight for extended periods of time whilst on the tripod. If in fact this problem was cause by exposure to heat, what can I expect in this matter? Will it eventually recover? If not, what is likely to be required to set it aright? Thanks, Bill Tallman


7. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:06 AM Friday 07 November, 2003

FYI, A teacher of automechanics once told me that WD 40 is an acidic solvent; in fact, it will pop a balloon if sprayed on one. It was designed to cut through dirt, clean, and leave a light lubrication layer. It is too handy in its spray bottle. We've gotten used to instant results, at hand. I once took apart the back of a working A lens to figure out how to free up the aperture linkage in another one. I too dropped some bearings and small parts. I had to take apart yet another one to then put it all back together with a model for this. As I recall this took four or five hours to get it right. Live and learn, nevermore. --Jay


8. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:59 AM Thursday 06 November, 2003

Anton, Here such a cleaning and reassembly would be from USD 40-60, FYI. As I have this lens let me know their quote for future reference. --Jay


9. From : Anton Browne (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 01:32 AM Thursday 06 November, 2003

Thanks Mico. Yes it is the acclaimed 'A' lens. I have sent the lens to Pentax UK - yes I know, I know, they messed up my LX but Robin is reluctant to touch lenses as he doesn't have a sufficiently dust free environment. Pentax will get back with an appraisal and estimate, I will decide from there. Anton


10. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 07:18 AM Wednesday 05 November, 2003

Anton, I do not think that your 20/2.8 is done (It should be “A” lens ?) if you have all you have dropped on the carpet. Also, why so many people use WD 40 for lens/camera cleaning??? That stuff dissolves rust, heavy grease, etc. It is NOT good for any photo repair job. WD40 is too aggressive, too dissolving capable (what has spread on your aperture blades is WD 40 + all the grease it was taking with it.) Slow aperture blades are not always dirty, there is something else...What I use in such cases is 99% Isopropyl alcohol and sometimes 100% pure gasoline - very hard to find and VERY flammable. Putting back “A” or “F-FA” aperture rings back is a bit tricky, but not impossible. There is a lot small parts, springs, balls, elastic levers, etc. That also explains why manufacturers are trying to strip off aperture rings from lenses – it IS expensive to make and assemble them. So, what you should have to put your lens back together are: one spring (maybe hidden in the hole, check) and one small ball for aperture ring, one spring and “L” shape metal piece with a pin which protrudes through the hole in the bayonet mount and makes that famous “A”- lens contact. Other parts can not drop from the lens mount. Also, if your aperture blades are covered with stains (WD40 residue) do not clean that for now, you could damage anti-reflex finish. If you can provide more details what else is wrong, maybe I can help with further information...

Jay, I think that 28-105/3.2-4.5 ED-If is very good consumer zoom for the range. Distortion is something I take into account with any zoom lens. 28-108 ED-IF is sharp, and that is important for me. For more demanding purposes I use primes in the same range. In fact, I do not need more than 80-90 at the long end. 24-90 is probably better but I prefer a prime lens for its wide end. 28-70/2.8 is just too expensive. My ideal zoom for that range would have been 28-90/3.5. Hmmm, it resembles A35-105/3.5… M.


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Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Tony Davies-Patrick (Globetrotter) (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com); Mico Smiljanic (micolx@netscape.net);
Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com); Philip Ashman (genesisphil@hotmail.com)

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